Tired of cheap crap.

[Johntodd]

OK, cheap crap got me off the stinkies. But I'm tired of them breaking and not being user-fixable.

I think I am ready for a mech mod. I can build coils to come out to the right resistance, I can maintain/clean the mech mod, and my vaping habits are in the "Modwomping" range. I usually vape on my KBOX from 20-25 watts, and rarely do I hit 30 watts. I can't take it at 40 watts, it makes me cough.

I use drippers mostly, dual-coil, and last week I got The Big Dripper on clearance for $5! I also own 2 Youde Goblins, which I rarely use but will if need be.

I have 4 Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh batts, and a Nitecore Intellicharger I4.

I want a cheap mech that can be fixed at home (and the hardware store). I'm ex-military, so I'm always thinking "What if it breaks down in the field? How do I defend against the enemy of withdrawal symptoms?" I am primarily concerned with not smoking more than anything else.

I was thinking of this mech:

https://101vape.com/mechanical-mods/741-bullet-mechanical-mod.html

Or this one:

http://www.madvapes.com/the-ehpro-nzonic.html

I don't mind a little pre-launch scrubbing and tinkering to set her up correctly before I vape.

Please advise me;
-Johntodd

PS: I own a meter! I also DIY my juice so I can change NIC levels easily.

 

[Bad Ninja]

The first one you listed has the 510 on the side.
If using a 22mm tank or atty ( like the goblin) it's gonna look wierd if it fits at all.

I used to repair mechanicals for three local vape shops.

My advice?
Get a well made clone.

Like this:
$15, recessed button, locking ring, solid copper contacts, fully adjustable, kick ring, built like a breaching tool.

Dusted king v2

https://88evape.com/shop/mechanical-mods/king-v2-style-mechanical-mod/

 

[Johntodd]

OK, thanks. I looked that one over. TWo questions:

1. Does it have a magnetic switch?
2. Can I throw everything in the dishwasher?

-and- bonus question:
3. Can I repair it with common hardware store stuff.

 

[Bad Ninja]

OK, thanks. I looked that one over. TWo questions:

1. Does it have a magnetic switch?
2. Can I throw everything in the dishwasher?

-and- bonus question:
3. Can I repair it with common hardware store stuff.

1. No, it has a spring.
But magnets are an available upgrade.

2. Yes, though hand washing is much easier and does a better job. Just like dishes. Be sure to disassemble and dry before using.

3. Nothing really to repair. It's a steel tube with threads, but yes you can find a replacement spring at harbor freight or ACE hardware.

 

[roxynoodle]

I have 5 of these I like them so much. And one authentic and one other clone by a different manufacturer. And you can't beat the clearance price. Free shipping, too!

https://www.vaporrange.com/Infinite-Stingray-X-18650-22mm-Mechanical-Mod-p/inf-stingrayx.htm

I bought extra rice pins from Fatdaddyvape. So far I've only had one wear out, and that was the authentic, lol! And several places sell replacement top caps and switches if you really want to future proof it, although $15 for the whole clone, you may as well just buy two

 

[Johntodd]

My biggest concern so far are the 510 connectors. That is what has been breaking on my APVs. So on these mechs, can I take apart the 510 area and get some hardware store stuff to fix them?

 

[edyle]

My biggest concern so far are the 510 connectors. That is what has been breaking on my APVs. So on these mechs, can I take apart the 510 area and get some hardware store stuff to fix them?

What i did was use m21x1 threaded mods, and i bought a ten pack of m21x1 (chiyou) topcaps; that way i had topcaps permanently affixed onto tanks or rdas and not wearing down 510 threads.

Nowadays however, i tend to use almost exclusively my nemesis and 3d rda; there are better rda's than the 3d, but the clincher is the 3d is threaded to fit directly onto the nemesis with no 510 connection in between.

another setup like that is the elm rda with the tree of life mod; it will work with other mods if it's the right threading.


===
forgot to mention: what i settled on with m21x1 mods was the astro telescopic mod.


the other popular threading is m20x1.

So far i have never seen any thread adapter rings.

 

[Johntodd]

Ooh, I'm sorry, I should have been more specific.

My 510 problems are usually related to the insulator breaking, thus shorting. A problem with any regulated mod, a big {Moderated} for a mech mod.

Do they make mechs where the 510 assembly can be broken down and overhauled?



EDIT: Sorry Mods. Let that one slip.

 

[edyle]

Ooh, I'm sorry, I should have been more specific.

My 510 problems are usually related to the insulator breaking, thus shorting. A problem with any regulated mod, a big {Moderated} for a mech mod.

Do they make mechs where the 510 assembly can be broken down and overhauled?

Yes most regulated mods still use flimsy thin centerpin insulators.

Most of the mechs I have have much more robust insulators and more importantly, they have adjustment screws.

 

[sonicbomb]

If you like chunky and bullet proof a Panzer may be for you. If you run out of juice you can beat just some out of a nearby rock with it. It uses a spring which I find more reliable and simple to fix than a magnetic switch, like the Stingray X(which is a lovely mod by the way).

$25 and all positive reviews on this clone
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007488/1687100-panzer-style-mechanical-mod

The 510s on mechs are pretty solid and accessible. Hardware store replaceable probably not, but there are specialist mod part shops online like the already mentioned fatdaddyvapes.
Hand washing with a toothbrush and some dish soap is the way to go as mentioned. Stainless steel looks after itself, but copper or brass mods need a lot of cleaning/polishing unless you like green smelly fingers.

 

[Johntodd]

I'm still behind here ... what could possibly go wrong with a magnetic switch? It only fails if magnetism itself fails, and if that happens, the universe ends.

But springs rust, corrode, lose their springiness, etc.

 

[Bad Ninja]

I'm still behind here ... what could possibly go wrong with a magnetic switch? It only fails if magnetism itself fails, and if that happens, the universe ends.

But springs rust, corrode, lose their springiness, etc.

The mod I listed will not have these problems you are concerned with.

The 510 threads are stainless steel, just like the rest of the mod.

The insulator around the positive pin is delrin and it's fully adjustable and removeable.

You would have to intentionally damage it or be extremely careless past the point of any mod surviving.

It's more durable than a Mag light.

If you are really that careless, a mech probably isn't a good idea.

 

[sonicbomb]

I'm still behind here ... what could possibly go wrong with a magnetic switch? It only fails if magnetism itself fails, and if that happens, the universe ends.

But springs rust, corrode, lose their springiness, etc.

My preference is based on my experience of spring switches being smoother and less sticky than magnetic ones rather than an issue with durability. Magnets can corrode too, but springs are easier to replace, you could even make one yourself at a push.

 

[edyle]

I'm still behind here ... what could possibly go wrong with a magnetic switch? It only fails if magnetism itself fails, and if that happens, the universe ends.

But springs rust, corrode, lose their springiness, etc.

the 10pack of magnets that i bought for my nemesis i found to be rather fragile; i've probably broken about 4 out of the 10 pairs so far.
when they get all used up, I'd probably put back in a spring.

one time, i remember there was a period i found the magnets soooo smoooth... then after awhile i was scratching my head thinking they were toooooo smooth; such a light soft touch, almost as is there was nothing there.
well there wasn't.

after a couple drops on the tiled floor, the magnets inside had shattered; the button was essentially loose and i'd not really realised it; what seemed like a soft smooth buttonpress was just gravity mostly.

the nemesis magnets are like washer shaped; and they don't fit any of the other mods that i have.

i have a polidiac; that's a top switched mech; and that has disc magnets in the switch; those magnets aren't going to shatter.

 

[Bad Ninja]

 

[jhhollier]

I followed Roxy's and Bad's suggestions in the past and was not let down. The Infinite Stingray X and the King V2 clones are damn good devices that I used on a daily basis. I prefer the Stingray X for one reason - its not as tall as the King V2 when using an 18650. Otherwise, it performs just as well.

 

[Johntodd]

OK, I went with the King!

Looks like a great device. Really looking forward to it.

Love the thought of using a mod that can be used as a tool. It's the "SM58" of mods:

http://createdigitalmusic.com/2007/10/shure-sm58-mic-torture-tested-takes-a-licking/

Thanks!
-Johntodd

 

[Johntodd]

So, according to Steam Engine, I should build at 0.9 ohms to get 19.6 watts from a fresh battery.

Sound correct? Just looking for a starting point.

 

[Tom Forde]

Before you decided to get a King mod, I was going to recommend a parallel mech box. They don't have many moving parts & the 510's on them can hold up depending on which box you get. And most are replaceable with a http://www.fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html?m 510 connection, and they have 5 versions of them to choose from.
I just picked up a Limitless Mod for myself & the magnets in the switch are 24k gold plated, which means as long as I don't chip the gold plating, they won't corrode. But then again, it's a direct to battery mech.

 

[roxynoodle]

I do like the silver plated contacts on the Stingray X. And Rhodium plated in the Poldiac. They both hit hard and are low maintenence.