WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC

[Hollywood VA]

The rx200 made me nervous at first because it seems like the chip had issues reading my tc coils at times and reverting resistance levels to previous ones/not recognizing new coils etc BUT.....THE UPDATE CHANGED ALL MY TC PROBLEMS! Now if you havent used these new features in tc mode IT IS A MUST!!! Reading the resistance of a coil is constantly changing and locking its resistance to use as a steady vape is not as accurate as if using the resistance properties of the wire or TCR. If you set the TCR then it knows how to keep all variables more steady to get a precise vape to your settings every hit no matter the changing resistance of the coil.....

I saw someone ask about custom coils and using tcr values for them and wanted to share a nickel build I have really fell in love with! SINCE EVERYONE THINKS NICKEL IS SO FLIMSY TRY THIS.....This is a type of staggered clapton I guess but a bit different. I twist two 32 ga. nickel wires as tight as possible so they are nice and straight as one and become a perfect core. Once thats done I use another 32 ga. wire to wrap the outside. Great because you only need one type of wire too.....anyways I use the pen technique to wrap and make sure its very tightly wrapped but it works great! NOW WHAT YOU REALLY WANT TO KNOW....WHATS THE RESISTANCE??!!......Well all my coils end up to be .07-.10 with 4 spaced wraps and range really depends on diameter of coil/length to post

Now from what I see the lower my resistance is on the coil build the higher I can ramp up the TCR value w/o burning etc. I also gathered that the best way to determine a good TCR was to put settings at about where i want them to be perfect and bump up the TCR little by little until the vape was just right.....With the above build I am able to get flavor and vapor like never before out of tanks by pushing the TCR up to about 740-750 with temp @440 and watts @35......THIS IS COOL SMOOTH AND WAY MORE SATISFYING THAN ANY TC VAPE EVER....I feel like I am really finally getting the most out of temp control mode!!!!

 

[Tufur]

The Triton .4 coils should be 316,the TCR value for 316 is 92.

When I set to 92, I don't get a vape. The starting point of the default 120 is a better starting point. Tomorrow, I'll be playing with titanium in the RTA. Who knows where the TCR ends up....

 

[ShowerHead]

When I set to 92, I don't get a vape. The starting point of the default 120 is a better starting point. Tomorrow, I'll be playing with titanium in the RTA. Who knows where the TCR ends up....

Try the water test for setting TCR.
Easier than scorching cotton and you get a clean tank as a bonus.

 

[atroph]

Water test? I am assuming when it first boils?

 

[zeus01]

Try the water test for setting TCR.
Easier than scorching cotton and you get a clean tank as a bonus.

how do you do the watertest?

 

[ddirtyvapes]

I think you guessed it near the end of your post: "assuming they are authentic". Plus there are myriad variables that can affect your results, for example: My best tester (Fluke) has a DC volts error range of +/- .03v. My guess is most chargers and devices have even greater drift.

The batteries did come from one of the reputable battery vendors (IMRBatteries, as it happens), but I know it's not like it's impossible that they're not authentic. If I had to put money on it, I'd say yes based on performance and my own knowledge/experience.... not my first time at the rodeo. There also could be a slight issue with one of them even if authentic-- I'll have to keep a close eye on it. I changed my batteries since we've been going back and forth and this set has been reading much closer. Not too bad. I do honestly think if they were bunk batteries they'd be doing more weird things, but it's always hard to say for sure...

 

[Tufur]

Try the water test for setting TCR.
Easier than scorching cotton and you get a clean tank as a bonus.

I don't understand what you mean. I don't see 212F as meaningful. Propylene glycol boils at 370F and vegetable glycerin at 550F. Even with water added, both are over 300F boiling point in our application. The only point of TC is to not decompose the e-liquid. You can taste it with experience. The human nose is very sensitive to combustion products and aldehydes. I have been known to boil water in my kayfun v4 clones and retired protank2s for cleaning. But soaking coils in vodka is so much more fun as some always leaks out into a glass. I am not interested in calibrating past taste and safety as I cannot change the readout of the RX200 board. The mod is working for me beautifully.

 

[Jalcide]

I don't see 212F as meaningful.

It's just a way to calibrate.

 

[Jalcide]

how do you do the watertest?

Create a wicking solution where water is boiling off. Preferably distilled water. Doesn't really matter, the test is not accurate enough to detect this. Just don't use salt water.

Choose a wattage appropriate for the build. Not too high, not too low. It shouldn't matter, but I've found it does. I have ideas about why, but won't go into them now.

Edit: As GeorgeS has pointed out, using as low a wattage as possible will help keep the 212F readings stable.

In an accurate test we'd want to change our notion of 212F as the boiling point of water based on barometric pressure, but the slow display update interval and lack of decimals on the RX200 makes it inaccurate enough of a test that this won't matter.

Start the test with atty, water and wick at room temp, per normal TC best-practices. Fire and watch the temp as it updates. If the TCR is correct, it should hover around 212F.

This doesn't account for accumulative errors due to non-linearities and other factors that happen above 212F, but it will at least see if the TCR is likely to be in the ballpark. In other words, real-world temps at higher values could be off a bit.

The test also assumes the temp display logic has tight correlation to its firing logic and is hopefully taking mean values or averaged values of some sort. Since coders are "lazy" and don't like to reinvent what has already been created, it's highly likely they're using the same core methods between the display and firing and that the correlation is pretty tight.

If the temp display, on average, shows values lower than 212F, it means the vape would be too hot compared to the actual temp and the TCR is set too high. Lowering the TCR a bit and re-testing will result in the temp displayed being higher (and the vape being actually cooler -- when you're not using water, of course). And vice versa. When display is higher than 212F, TCR is too low; a cooler-than-actual vape ensues.

Again, to simplify:
When display goes over 212F, TCR is low, increase TCR value.
When display goes under 212F, TCR is high, decrease TCR value.

(It's a bit counterintuitive.)

Btw, I haven't done a lot of testing on the RX, but my guess is that the TCR function is loaded to be slightly hotter than actual. Even though everyone says the TCRs are not hot enough. I have a feeling Joyetech has offered a small olive branch by making them slightly hotter (though still not hot enough for most).

For example. A quick Ni200 test is showing a TCR of around 0580 is delivering what a proper value of 0600 should be. In other words a TCR setting of 0600 is hotter than it should be.

Quick test, so I don't stand firmly behind it yet, but that's what it's looking like.

Also, it seems like the built-in Ni200 mode is way off. It's hovering around 300F for me when boiling off water. Which means its internal TCR is too low; vape would likely appear anemic to most.

 

[Mowgli]

Back of Vape Royalty packaging receipt & sweet mod sleeves from Valentino Villa | Facebook

 

[zeus01]

Create a wicking solution where water is boiling off. Preferably distilled water. Doesn't really matter, the test is not accurate enough to detect this. Just don't use salt water.

Choose a wattage appropriate for the build. Not too high, not too low. It shouldn't matter, but I've found it does. I have ideas about why, but won't go into them now.

In an accurate test we'd want to change our notion of 212F as the boiling point of water based on barometric pressure, but the display update interval and lack of decimals of the RX200 makes it inaccurate enough of a test that this won't matter.

Start the test with atty, water and wick at room temp, per normal TC best-practices. Fire and watch the temp as it updates. If the TCR is correct, it should hover around 212F.

This doesn't account of accumulative errors due to non-linearities and other factors that happen above 212F, but it will at least see if the TCR is likely to be in the ballpark. In other words, real temps at higher values could be off a bit.

The test also assumes the temp display logic has tight correlation to its firing logic and is hopefully taking mean values or averaged values of some sort. Since coders are "lazy" and don't like to reinvent what has already been created, it's highly likely they're using the same core methods between the display and firing and that the correlation is pretty tight.

If the temp display, on average, shows values lower than 212F, it means the vape would be too hot compared to actual temp and the TCR is set too high. Lowering the TCR a bit and re-testing will result in the temp displayed being higher (and the vape being actually cooler -- when you're not using water, of course). And vice versa.

Btw, I haven't done a lot of testing on the RX, but my guess is that the TCR function is loaded to be slightly hotter than actual. Even though everyone says the TCRs are not hot enough. I have a feeling Joyetech has offered a small olive branch by making them slightly hotter (though still not hot enough for most).

For example. A quick Ni200 test is showing a TCR of around 0580 is delivering what a proper value of 0600 should be. In other words a TCR setting of 0600 is hotter than it should be.

Quick test, so I don't stand firmly behind it yet, but that's what it's looking like.

Also, it seems like the built-in Ni200 mode is way off. It's hovering around 300F for me when boiling off water. Which means its internal TCR (or whatever curves it uses for the built-in modes) is too low, vape would likely appear to be anemic for most.

sorry a bit dumb
on this

so do i need a fresh wick or can I start with what I have now?
then

set tcr to lets say 94
set it to 300f so i have room for movement?

then set my watts @50watts (i have a 5/6 loop build on a 3mm guide,twisted ss wire)

if it hovers 212 tcr is correct?
if i go over 212 tcr is high?
reduce value?
test again

if i dont hit 212 tcr is low incread?

 

[KwhyLE]

Okay, forgive my ignorance but I just got a RX200 on Friday and SS316L 24g wire on Saturday and I have a couple of questions. I have been vaping for years, but this is my first TC device.

1. Would I build the SS coil as I would Ti (from what Im reading) and not pulse them until glowing?
I did that on my first coil with 316L and it came out to 0.24ohms. Set at about 420F on M1 with TCR of 92. The vape was pretty lacking in flavor/temp.

2. Do TC devices essentially pulse the coil to keep it at the correct temp/resistance? (am I understanding that correctly?)

3. What would be the most flavorful build for a dual coil SS316L square wire in a goblin mini?

 

[Jalcide]

sorry a bit dumb
on this

so do i need a fresh wick or can I start with what I have now?
then

set tcr to lets say 94
set it to 300f so i have room for movement?

then set my watts @50watts (i have a 5/6 loop build on a 3mm guide,twisted ss wire)

if it hovers 212 tcr is correct?
if i go over 212 tcr is high?
reduce value?
test again

if i dont hit 212 tcr is low incread?

I would start with a fresh wick to ensure it's just water content in it.

Right, set the temp high enough for some headroom to work in.

If it goes over 212 the TCR is too low. If it goes under 212 the TCR is too high.

It's counterintuitive.

The way to visualize is to think like the mod. If the mod is calculating (and displaying) a temp of, say, 180F when boiling water, at a known temp of 212F, then the mod is thinking "not hot enough, must put more power to the coil" even though we can see it is actually hot enough, as water boiling in the test keeps the temp near a constant 212F. This is the "TCR is too high" situation.

Likewise, when we see a temp on the display higher than 212F, as water is happily boiling off it, and the mod thinks it's, say, 280F, the mod will be continually lowering power, compared to actual, when firing during a real vape. This is the "TCR is too low" situation. In other words, the mod is continually thinking things are hotter than they really are, and sends less power to the coil to wrongly compensate; cooler vape ensues.

 

[zeus01]

Okay, forgive my ignorance but I just got a RX200 on Friday and SS316L 24g wire on Saturday and I have a couple of questions. I have been vaping for years, but this is my first TC device.

1. Would I build the SS coil as I would Ti (from what Im reading) and


I did that on my first coil with 316L and it came out to 0.24ohms. Set at about 420F on M1 with TCR of 92. The vape was pretty lacking in flavor/temp.

2. Do TC devices essentially pulse the coil to keep it at the correct temp/resistance? (am I understanding that correctly?)

3. What would be the most flavorful build for a dual coil SS316L square wire in a goblin mini?

not pulse them until glowing?

ss wires treat them like kanthal
you can pulse until it glows or breaks
you can have them contact as well


I suggest using 94 or
use the temp ss mode ,as i understand the tcr values of 316 and 316l are not far from each other


I suggest using 94 or
use the temp ss mode ,as i understand the tcr values of 316 and 316l are not far from each other


yes and no,
yes it pulses different values
depending on your settings
like mine i have mine set @150watts @380f
so my first few seconds it fires 150watts if i get 380f instantly,and i am still holding the fire button,the next wattage is a lot lower,dependeing how much wattage is required to maintain the temp

 

[zeus01]

Right, set the temp high enough for some headroom to work in.

If it goes over 212 the TCR is too low. If it goes under 212 the TCR is high.

It's counterintuitive. The way to visualize is to think like the mod. If the mod is calculating (and displaying) a temp of, say, 180F when boiling water, at a known temp of 212F, then the mod is thinking "not hot enough, must put more power to the coil" even though we can see it is actually hot enough, as water boiling in the test keeps the temp near a constant 212F.

Likewise, when we see a temp on the display higher than 212F, as water is happily boiling off it, and the mod thinks it's, say, 280F, the mod will be continually lowering power, compared to actual, when firing during a real vape. In other words, the mod is continually thinking things are hotter than they really are, and sends more power to the coil to wrongly compensate; hotter vape ensues.

ok ok

so can i use my current wick?
a bit excited to try it out
but i am still at work

so if i go above 212
tcr low increase value
if it goes below
tcr too high
decrease value???

 

[Jalcide]

ok ok

so can i use my current wick?
a bit excited to try it out
but i am still at work

so if i go above 212
tcr low increase value
if it goes below
tcr too high
decrease value???

Sorry, you replied before I could edit my post -- like 10 seconds later. I said things opposite in that last paragraph. Lol. Re-paste in my corrected post (or just delete it), if you could be so kind. Also, re-read it as it will make sense now.

Not enough caffeine today. Sorry about that.

I would use a fresh wick to ensure pure water content.

Right, if you go over 212, TCR is low, increase value.

And vice versa. If you go under 212, TCR is high, decrease value.

 

[Hightech Redneck]

The discussion seems to be only ss wire as of late. I am yet to get my hands on some and still have about 990ft of ni lol. Does anyone know the ni TCR value the mod has by default? I know I have to run the temps hotter in my rx to be similar in vape to my li. I am starting to play with the TCR and was hoping someone knew what was used in the base ni mode.

 

[ddirtyvapes]

The discussion seems to be only ss wire as of late. I am yet to get my hands on some and still have about 990ft of ni lol. Does anyone know the ni TCR value the mod has by default? I know I have to run the temps hotter in my rx to be similar in vape to my li. I am starting to play with the TCR and was hoping someone knew what was used in the base ni mode.

There was a discussion about this a couple of pages back. I believe the consensus was that Nichrome has too low a TCR value to really be usable, it would have to be something like 0011 on the RX200 if I remember right. I may not be remembering right though. Someone else would know better, but like I said I'm pretty sure the basic thought process from those in the know was that it's not worth it with Nichrome.

 

[KwhyLE]

awesome thanks zeus! Just wanted to make sure before I do something wrong.

So just to clarify, when the RX200 says "Temp Protection," its safe to keep dragging on it?

 

[zeus01]

awesome thanks zeus! Just wanted to make sure before I do something wrong.

So just to clarify, when the RX200 says "Temp Protection," its safe to keep dragging on it?

just fyi as well
rx has 2 kinds of temp protection

first one would be the ok temp
it simply means you have reached your desired temp its fine,,
continue happily vaping

the second one
will have temp protect and no vape or weak vape
well there...start troubleshooting from hotspots,wicking,and tcr values