anyone know a way of testing the voltage on the batteries? - Page 3 - e-cigarette-forum.com • The place for electronic cigarette reviews, news and chat

twelvepin · 08-17-2008, 01:34 AM

emp what is the propeller wire?

GTOrichie · 08-17-2008, 05:20 AM

I think he meens the case of the atomizer as this is the other terminal, If it will make things easyer for people I can take some photos showing how to do it

TheEmperorOfIceCream · 08-17-2008, 05:11 PM

Hi guys

I took Harry to mean the outer rim like Richie says. It worked anyway!

Emp

dc2k08 · 08-17-2008, 07:52 PM

just got mine today..that same model at kelpin. get a reading of 36-38 off first atmzr. i have it switched to 200 on the dial, not 200k per emp's advice. that sound right? what should i switch it to for a battery voltage reading?

clavit · 08-17-2008, 07:56 PM

Hi DC.
I presume you're getting 3.6 to 3.8 ohms on your atomizer. Areading of 36-38 ohms would propably mean your atomizer is shot.
For battery voltage you should set it to 20V DC. Expect a reading of 3.5 to 4.2 volts depending on the state of charge

GTOrichie · 08-17-2008, 08:08 PM

OK. here's a simple guide to check the coil in your atomizer.

First you need a multimeter set to the lowest ohms(Ω) setting, as you can see in photo 1 the lowest setting on this meter is 200ohms. Any cheap meter will do, your local hardware store should have them. I would advise a digital meter like the one shown in the photo as there is an art to reading the analog ones.

Photo 1.

Now you have your meter set to ohms you are ready to start. Take your atomizer and look at the end that mates to the battery, you should notice that it seems to have a raised part in the middle and a silver rim on the outer, these are the terminals that mate up to there oposite counterparts on the baterry and make the connection. Now you have identified your terminals you can take you first probe and hold it in the centre (you can use the hole in the middle as a guide if you find it easier). While holding your centre probe in place take your second probe and hold it to the outer metal rim. You should now have something that looks like photo 2.

Photo 2.

As you can see in photo 2 this atomizer has a resistance of 3.5, the two main things to look for when fault finding are open circuit and closed circuit. An open circuit is when there is a break in the wires inside the atomizer which literaly breaks the circuit and stops the heater coil from getting any power, if this happens you could try to strip it and re-solder the break but this may prove to be too difficult. A closed circuit means that the two terminals have somehow connected to each other inside the atomizer and are bypassing the heating coil completely. This can be bad if you connect it to your battery as it could cause your chip to blow rendering the battery useless. Photo 3 shows what you will see if the atomizer is open circuit.

Photo 3.

Photo 4 shows what you will see if your atomizer is short circuit, if you see this avoid connecting this to a battery as you risk damaging it if you havent already. Also it's a good thing to remember even though lithium batteries are a good source of power they don't respond well to being shorted out or being punctured as they can catch fire in those situations.

Photo 4.

Tip: after using a multi meter make sure you don't leave it set to ohms, the reason being next time you use the meter you could be testing volts and forget it is set to ohms, doing this will cause your meter to either pop its internal safty diode (commonly referred to as an "idiot diode") or if it's a good meter it will have a fuse that will need replacing.

dc2k08 · 08-17-2008, 08:10 PM

that right clav..3.6 ohms..my bad. still no joy on the battery reading. i have the red probe connected to the upper red hole (10adc) on the multi-meter and the black one on the black hole. this right? for the resistence i had the red one switched to the middle hole. set to 20v now. does it matter which probes i use on the battery?

thanks for the pics gto. exellent demo

GTOrichie · 08-17-2008, 08:18 PM

for testing the battery voltage you want the meter set to Vdc (volts Direct Curent) if is have symbols insted of DC you want the one that have two stripes going left to right and the bottom strip will be broken, you don't want the one with the wavey line. if you have it set to A thats amps and another reading all together for this to work it needs to be inline with a running circuit to measure the amps being drawn from the battery

take a look at my atomizer photos and imagine that the atomizer is the battery and the probes should be in the same place, at no point let the two probes touch or join the inner to the outer as this will pop the battery which is never a good thing. don't forget you need to blow into the light end of the battery to trigger the switch and turn the circuit on

dc2k08 · 08-17-2008, 08:23 PM

ok. so set it to 20 vdc. connect the red probe to the 10adc hole? and the black to the black? or both in red? does it matter which probes i use on the terminals of the battery?

super useful info about the closed circuit reading on the attzs. im never going to test them out with anything other than this again.

GTOrichie · 08-17-2008, 08:29 PM

you should have 3 probe holes, 1.Adc 2.com/neutral 3.VΩmA

If your holes look like this for testing battery voltage you want to use holes 2 and 3
With the batterys I have here if my memory is correct the inner terminal was positive so you want to use the red probe on that but if you get it wrong it want cause a problem it will just read negative insted of positive (so it will look like -3.7 insted of 3.7)

08-17-2008, 05:11 PM	#23
TheEmperorOfIceCream Super Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: London, UK Posts: 947	Hi guys I took Harry to mean the outer rim like Richie says. It worked anyway! Emp __________________ Forgotten but not gone...

08-17-2008, 07:52 PM	#24
dc2k08 4-Um Addict Join Date: May 2008 Location: .ie Posts: 1,315	just got mine today..that same model at kelpin. get a reading of 36-38 off first atmzr. i have it switched to 200 on the dial, not 200k per emp's advice. that sound right? what should i switch it to for a battery voltage reading? __________________ "Some women would prefer having smaller babies" - Philip Morris President 1971 E-cig News.com Last edited by dc2k08; 08-17-2008 at 08:01 PM.

08-17-2008, 07:56 PM	#25
clavit Full Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: EU Posts: 102	Hi DC. I presume you're getting 3.6 to 3.8 ohms on your atomizer. Areading of 36-38 ohms would propably mean your atomizer is shot. For battery voltage you should set it to 20V DC. Expect a reading of 3.5 to 4.2 volts depending on the state of charge __________________ Dave Allen: "I've stopped smoking...I think the cost was a lot of it, and not being able to breathe. I first gave up smoking when I was eight."

08-17-2008, 08:10 PM	#27
dc2k08 4-Um Addict Join Date: May 2008 Location: .ie Posts: 1,315	that right clav..3.6 ohms..my bad. still no joy on the battery reading. i have the red probe connected to the upper red hole (10adc) on the multi-meter and the black one on the black hole. this right? for the resistence i had the red one switched to the middle hole. set to 20v now. does it matter which probes i use on the battery? thanks for the pics gto. exellent demo __________________ "Some women would prefer having smaller babies" - Philip Morris President 1971 E-cig News.com Last edited by dc2k08; 08-17-2008 at 08:17 PM.

08-17-2008, 08:18 PM	#28
GTOrichie Full Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wimborne, Dorset, UK. Posts: 59	for testing the battery voltage you want the meter set to Vdc (volts Direct Curent) if is have symbols insted of DC you want the one that have two stripes going left to right and the bottom strip will be broken, you don't want the one with the wavey line. if you have it set to A thats amps and another reading all together for this to work it needs to be inline with a running circuit to measure the amps being drawn from the battery take a look at my atomizer photos and imagine that the atomizer is the battery and the probes should be in the same place, at no point let the two probes touch or join the inner to the outer as this will pop the battery which is never a good thing. don't forget you need to blow into the light end of the battery to trigger the switch and turn the circuit on Last edited by GTOrichie; 08-17-2008 at 08:20 PM.

08-17-2008, 01:34 AM	#21
twelvepin Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 2	emp what is the propeller wire?

08-17-2008, 05:20 AM	#22
GTOrichie Full Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wimborne, Dorset, UK. Posts: 59	I think he meens the case of the atomizer as this is the other terminal, If it will make things easyer for people I can take some photos showing how to do it

08-17-2008, 08:08 PM	#26
GTOrichie Full Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wimborne, Dorset, UK. Posts: 59	OK. here's a simple guide to check the coil in your atomizer. First you need a multimeter set to the lowest ohms(Ω) setting, as you can see in photo 1 the lowest setting on this meter is 200ohms. Any cheap meter will do, your local hardware store should have them. I would advise a digital meter like the one shown in the photo as there is an art to reading the analog ones. Photo 1. Now you have your meter set to ohms you are ready to start. Take your atomizer and look at the end that mates to the battery, you should notice that it seems to have a raised part in the middle and a silver rim on the outer, these are the terminals that mate up to there oposite counterparts on the baterry and make the connection. Now you have identified your terminals you can take you first probe and hold it in the centre (you can use the hole in the middle as a guide if you find it easier). While holding your centre probe in place take your second probe and hold it to the outer metal rim. You should now have something that looks like photo 2. Photo 2. As you can see in photo 2 this atomizer has a resistance of 3.5, the two main things to look for when fault finding are open circuit and closed circuit. An open circuit is when there is a break in the wires inside the atomizer which literaly breaks the circuit and stops the heater coil from getting any power, if this happens you could try to strip it and re-solder the break but this may prove to be too difficult. A closed circuit means that the two terminals have somehow connected to each other inside the atomizer and are bypassing the heating coil completely. This can be bad if you connect it to your battery as it could cause your chip to blow rendering the battery useless. Photo 3 shows what you will see if the atomizer is open circuit. Photo 3. Photo 4 shows what you will see if your atomizer is short circuit, if you see this avoid connecting this to a battery as you risk damaging it if you havent already. Also it's a good thing to remember even though lithium batteries are a good source of power they don't respond well to being shorted out or being punctured as they can catch fire in those situations. Photo 4. Tip: after using a multi meter make sure you don't leave it set to ohms, the reason being next time you use the meter you could be testing volts and forget it is set to ohms, doing this will cause your meter to either pop its internal safty diode (commonly referred to as an "idiot diode") or if it's a good meter it will have a fuse that will need replacing.

08-17-2008, 08:23 PM	#29
dc2k08 4-Um Addict Join Date: May 2008 Location: .ie Posts: 1,315	ok. so set it to 20 vdc. connect the red probe to the 10adc hole? and the black to the black? or both in red? does it matter which probes i use on the terminals of the battery? super useful info about the closed circuit reading on the attzs. im never going to test them out with anything other than this again. __________________ "Some women would prefer having smaller babies" - Philip Morris President 1971 E-cig News.com

08-17-2008, 08:29 PM	#30
GTOrichie Full Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wimborne, Dorset, UK. Posts: 59	you should have 3 probe holes, 1.Adc 2.com/neutral 3.VΩmA If your holes look like this for testing battery voltage you want to use holes 2 and 3 With the batterys I have here if my memory is correct the inner terminal was positive so you want to use the red probe on that but if you get it wrong it want cause a problem it will just read negative insted of positive (so it will look like -3.7 insted of 3.7)

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