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Removing the wick in E-Cigarette Technical; does anybody know what material the wick consists off? I deleted mine and had less throat hit and less vapor. ...
  1. #71
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    Default the wick

    does anybody know what material the wick consists off?
    I deleted mine and had less throat hit and less vapor.

    Then I pulled down the wick again and had better smoking. After some time the wick burned out.

    I don't have any new atomizers and need to order some. But delivery time is about a month. I need to smoke something for this time. Thats why I want to buy some material to pull down into atomizer instead off original wick.

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  3. #72
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    Maybe it's just me, but something I wanted to report.

    Without the wick and bridge, 3 drops of VG-based juice maybe gets me 5 "puffs" out of it before I get that horribly nasty dry atty taste. I'm guessing it's since the juice vaporizes much quicker being right on the coil.

    So just a heads up to anyone who does this: you're going to be dripping a lot more often! (unless, of course, I'm doing something wrong!)

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  5. #73
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    I don't have a 100%VG juice, but I do have a PG juice cut with a high percentage of VG. So I decided to test this out for you.

    Yes, I have a strange taste around the 5 puff marker. If I had to guess, most of flavoring is vaped first and then I'm stuck with a fairly wet atty with hardly any flavor. The 4 first puffs have lots of flavor. Anything past this point it fades at an alamring rate. However, it wasn't until the 11th puff the atty was completely dry. If you have to vape 100% VG I'd recommend something with alot of flavor or add flavor doubler. I think this would solve the problem.

    Side note: You removed the bridge and wick so you can easily see when the atty is completely dry. There is a fiber in between the heating coil and it will turn white. Any further use will result in a dry burn.

  6. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by phee View Post
    i really only recommend doing this with 510s, 901s and 801s because they have the same basic structure so its almost the exact same method. i have not used the 808's or the 4081s but i'm assuming they're cartomizers so i would NOT recommend it. here's a blurb from one of my posts in a different forum:

    IMO removing the wick helps performance because your heating coil now doen't have fibers to melt and gunk up. in a large number of cases where the atty stops working its because too much of the fiber has bonded with the coil giving it trouble to heat up properly.

    i DO emphasize that removing the wick is just for drippers but i've used it with carts and as long as that bridge is there carts still work - i just dont recommend it.

    @breakfastchef: you have to keep in mind that we're dripping here, the anatomy of the atomizer is designed for use with carts which is why i really stress that this is for drippers only. you can see when i remove the bridge that there is a metal skeleton maintaining the mesh shape - you want your juice to have contact with the coil when you vape so when you drip with the bridge (and no wick) the juice travels outward to the inner lining of the atty and from there the juice will either get to the coil or go completely through the atty and just exit out of the intake holes. i found that when i take the wick out i solve one problem but created another: taking the wick out fixes the harsh burned vapor but by doing so now when you drip the bridge leads the liquid towards the edges instead of right down into the coil so i took the newly found problem and fixed that by removing the bridge all together.

    for me a new problem has occurred but only at high voltages and that is: the vapor is now too warm for my liking and at times the juice will crackle and minuet tiny drops come in contact with your tongue (sometimes it's not even noticeable), my solution to that is being much much more careful when removing the bridge, just take out the structure baring metal piece and try your best to leave the mesh whole - that way when you drip your juice will just flow through the mesh (and yes some to the side) but you still have "backsplash" protection during those long drags.

    i'm simply putting out information in which some may or may not find useful but at least the information is out there.

    glad to hear so many of you are benefitting from the mod! happy vaping!
    This is a great description, and I PM'd you also...but i wanted to post on here just in case others have had this problem. Anyway, i've dont this on a 306 atty, which is the same as a 510, but the bridge is exposed. I've been able to get about 5 drops in the atty this way, anymore and when i put the empty cart on it overflows and drips all over and down the battery . Anyway, i get a good 5-6 hits and large amounts of vape doing it this way, I feel that the cool gets a little too hot from direct contact and needs a minute or two to cool off and maybe you can get a 7th or 9th hit from it. It's definitely more vapor, and more TH, but i think dripping onto a mesh bridge absorbs some of the juice which allows for longer vaping. When doing it your way, you're basically dripping the juice into the plastic holder that holds the coil in place, while it does have amazing pro's, it also has a con as the session is shorter because the liq burns too quickly, or we simply cannot fit as many drops without the mesh soaking up the liq. either way, its a great way to get heavy hits when home and dont need to be in a rush.

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    Bump.

    A month has passed since I've done this tip, (also removed the bridge) and my 510 atomizer is still alive and working. I had only been using a 510 for about a week before I tried this trick. I've been pretty rough on this one atomizer. I clean it about once a week with just a quick rinse of warm water. I have used this atomizer at a max of 4.5 volts and the vapor is a little warmer, but I didn't have any problems with juice splashing into my mouth. Normally, I use the Janty eGo with this atty. I hope I didn't jinx myself though.

  8. #76
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    Did this to a few attys and they work just as well as before if not better, thanks

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    bump!

    hahaha awesome!

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    Default blu

    Quote Originally Posted by angelique510 View Post
    I get that funky burnt taste with my BLU after a while. Until then, I love it - so no ragging on the BLU. Yes, a boiled down teakettle discribes it perfectly. I couldn't find any threads in the atty. When I poked it with a paperclip, it was metal on metal. I can only assume that not all atties have the strings.

    And how do you manage to get all the way down into an RN4072 atty?

    ~A
    there is a small thread that runs up the bridge on the Blu atty. sometimes the new ones are hard to see. after a bit of usage, they will show theirself. its one thread instead of the 4 or 5 like the video.

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    I did this on a used atty, about 3-4 weeks old. I have a weird taste to my flavor now (using AFB), not sure if I need to clean the atty. I drip and use carts, I blow out the atty to clean it every other day.

  12. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zr0 View Post
    Anyways, I'm not dripping on it. Rather I'm using your (I think it's you) auto drip mod and it's working beautifully. Not sure how it'll hold up to a regular poly filled cart yet though.

    Thanks for posting this info Phee... I learned about removing the bridge and salvaged a few "dead" atty's but did not think to just remove the fibers, I will have to give that a try.

    Can anyone direct me to the info about the auto drip mod? Thanks!

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