How to fix airy draw on Titan?

**plantlvr** · 02-29-2012, 02:17 AM

So I did do a search, but couldn't find a fix. Just got my beautiful Xlong auto cigar color batt, but it has a very airy draw. I want a strong draw, so i hope Snow or Morandir can give me a quick tip

**Lisa66** · 02-29-2012, 02:19 AM

plantlvr, here's my post of a minute ago:

JRob, I've had this issue with some of the auto batteries, and not just Titans. I end up plugging one of the air intake holes on the battery (one of the three on the sides) and it does seem to help. I've used a broken-off toothpick, or even a tiny piece of tissue, using the tip of a pin or needle to kind of stuff it in.

It may not be the most technically adept way, but it has worked for me!

**plantlvr** · 02-29-2012, 02:21 AM

Thanx Lisa I remember doing that on a batt aloooong time ago

. Will try that soon!

**plarkinjr** · 02-29-2012, 01:31 PM

Yeah, the titans for me require more "airspeed" than I prefer to activate the switch. Like Lisa66, I jammed a toothpick into one of the holes and broke it off. Even that wasn't enough, so I plugged another hole, and that's a bit too much. I don't really mind a low-resistance draw, but I don't think I should have to work so hard to get the switch to fire on an auto batt. The colors and texture are cool though.

**Cyrus Vap** · 02-29-2012, 01:39 PM

I guess intuitively it should require more airspeed, unless the size and position of the hole are compensated for with a more sensitive switch

Among my diamonds there is a variation in switch sensitivity from one batt to the next as well. Only becomes an issue when using an airy cart on an insensitive switch

**Morandir835** · 02-29-2012, 04:11 PM

Plarkinjr sir oddly enough addressed the airspeed issue quite a few times. Explained this over on that other place-

The way an auto works is there are 2 air inlet holes on the bottom which draw air up through the battery through the hole in the post, there are 3 extra airholes around the thread collar to increase the airflow. Problem with the sealed auto is the post hole has been moved to the sides. Because of this when the switch gets sticky, it is much more noticeable due to the difference in the air flow from the unsealed counterparts. There's a fix though, works on all but the batts with the wrong hole alignment. Mark sir has been sent one of those batteries to see. That's all I'll say on it until back in md....

**Cyrus Vap** · 02-29-2012, 04:51 PM

A fix that's not the snow post raise or the Morandir smack? Now I'm intrigued!

**plarkinjr** · 02-29-2012, 05:49 PM

Yes, I am intrigued by a solution other than post-raise and hole-alignment. I've done both to two auth VT1003's with little or no improvement (but again, it may simply be a preference thing with me, and not a case of the battery not operating per design specs).

Morandir, I'm sure you have seen this elsewhere, but what you describe as how the auto's work is much like a turbofan jet engine, only in reverse. A jet converts mechanical and chemical energy into air-flow, whereas an auto e-cig batt is converting airflow to mechanical energy to trigger a switch. So look at this graphic (and imagine the arrows pointing to the left):

The red air is "combustion air", which on an e-cig represents the air drawn from the endcap thru the switch. The blue air is "bypass air" which represents the air going thru the holes in the threads. It does nothing to help activate the switch (because it bypasses it), but it does permit more TOTAL air to pass thru the entire unit. In turbofans they call this bypass-ratio. If the "cubic feet per minute" or air passing thru the combustion chamber is equal to that going around it is a 1:1 ratio. If less air goes thru the combustion path, it is said to have a "high bypass ratio".

Presumably VT1003's have a narrower channel for "combustion air" than VT1002's. Or the switches require more force on the 3's than the 2's. Either way, what I have found plugging the thread holes REDUCES the bypass ratio, which means that a greater proportion of the total airflow is directed thru the switch, despite the fact that the overall volume of the total airflow is also reduced.

I have to assume that post-raising and hole-aligning works for some cases, because others have said it does. However, I don't understand the mechanics of how that works, nor have I personally been able to make it work.

Yes, I'm VERY interested to hear about other solutions, or the mechanics involved that make post-raising and hole alignment a solution for some, or both.