GP PAPS SS V2.1, 18500 Edition SS V3, 18500 Edition LUX V3, LUX V3, TiX, SS X (2), LUX X (2), Piccolo V3.1, Heron (4), Spheroid V3, SnP 23mm.
Reo: Mini 2.1, LP Grand, VV Grand, Woodvil 18650 Jatoba, Woodvil 18490 Walnut
ProVari V2.5's: Stealth Mini, Stealth, Military Prototype, Metallic Bronze Mini, Polished
I didn't change much - just paid a bit more attention to what immediately "hit me" when I got up this morning. I don't know if this really was the reason - but just making sure that there was no excess wire (from the coil) sticking out from the positive post that "might" touch the topper. I just wound the coil wire a little further round the post before cutting it. Whether this was the reason for the previous shorts? I don't know?.. But no short this morning anyway.
Still getting a bit of gurgling though. I'll press on with slightly more/less filler until that too gets sorted.
So - thanks to all for suggestion and thoughts on this...
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Mods: Super-T:((4)ELA V1; (1)Simp(18350)-Ti; (1)Simp(18500)-Ti; (1)Simp(18650)-Ti; (1)Simp(26500)-SS; (1)Simp(26650)-SS) - GP PAPS:((2)X V1.5-SS; (1)X V1.5-Ti Edition #006)
Atties: (2)KFL; (5) KFL+ V2; (1)Helios RDA; (3)S-T Strata RDA(ELA); (3)S-T Strata RDA(Simp)
Good morning everyone. I wish everyone a great humpday. My morning setup with Ahlusion Apple Tarte Tatin.
Analog Free Since July 17, 2011
I ran across an interesting issue the other night and would like some input. I have a Paps V3 (lux) as well as the 18650 SS tube and also recently acquired a TOBH Atty V2.5. My first build on the TOBh was around .5 and had it sitting on the Paps with a fully charged Sony VCT4 and once i start pulsing and pinching the coils the button would get hot. I checked for shorts on my ohm reader and nothing came up, tightened down my post screws... nothing.
I also have a Raiju RDA, mirrored the build and it works great on the paps. I then took the TOBH and used it with another mod (telescopic nickel plated copper positive pin) and it works like a charm..
Is it possible that this is an issue in the Gpin and the paps was not meant for sub ohming?
Any help is welcome and appreciated.
Perseas says that the GPin is not designed for sub-ohm builds, so I try to keep my builds above 1 Ohm for the most part. Now having said that, I have run .6-.8 Ohm builds on my paps and the GPin handled it just fine, but I don't make a habit out of it as GP does not recommend it....
The only time I had a button get hot on my Paps was when I had a dead short in one of my Herons....so I suspect you may have had a short somewhere along the way....
Last edited by jpcwon; 07-09-2014 at 04:32 PM.
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