Sitting here on a downcast Saturday with too much free time so I thought I'd sort through all 80+ pages of the original Owner's Group thread to compile a list of the major points/observations/tips. Much credit to the thread's OP KnurledNut and all the contributing members. I don't want to hijack that thread so I suggest people continue the main conversation in the original and I can update info in this post as it develops in the other. I do welcome responses here though to correct the info or suggest something I may have missed, and maybe this can get stickied if/when a MVP2 section gets set up?
I tried to stick with issues that are particular to the MVP v2 and not broader subjects addressed in other sections of ECF, e.g. "what's better, an Evod or a Protank?". With that said, I did include some comments/opinions about tanks and such where people included more detailed, potentially helpful info as they relate to MVP use. Some of the posts are paraphrased but most are straight-quoted in their Q&A form. I tried to find the most representative posts for each issue but sometimes quoted a couple posts on the same issue because the different wording might be helpful to different people. Finally, I considered attributing each point to the contributing poster but that would have made this even more intensive, so here's another general BIGUP to all who pitched in.
blahblahblah get on with it:
iTaste MVP V2.0 Dimensions: 41 x 22 x 107mm
Just got your MVP? Your screen is not scratched/bubbled! The MVP 2 comes with a protective film on the screen which can be removed.
I hope I ordered the right "black", lol. I couldn't find pictures to differentiate between "black" and "carbon black", I wanted the one with the brushed look.
--If you ordered "Carbon Black" you'll get the brushed finish. I saw both "Blacks" at a local Vape Show over the weekend, and the difference is so miniscule, I think you're good either way.
About the size:
-- I'm comfortable holding the box. It's not too big for my hand. I used to have a cell phone bigger than this! (this was by a female poster, if that is helpful info)
Dust cover for microUSB port:
I got 1200 rips roughly 3.5-4 days on it out of the box and it was still green. I had to charge my iPhone off of the MVP to kill it so I could give it it's first full charge. That was Monday and now my MVP is still showing green and reading 3.9.
According to the manual the MVP 2.0 will complete a charge in 4 hrs or less depending on the level of discharge the battery has. Will leaving it on the charger "over night" 6-8 hrs. hurt the battery,or does it have cut off mode,so it won't "over charge" the battery?
--The MVP does cut itself off when charged. The green LED will go out when done. I've left mine plugged in with no issues.
-Note: It is generally suggested not to leave batteries charging unattended.
Is a computer USB port the only option for charging these? Is there a suitable wall charger available?
-- It comes with the adapter cord that has the three pronged adapter (one of which is a mini USB) to USB connector and you can use any USB source including a 5V wall wart. I use my cell phone charger all the time. I only have to have one charger/cord and I can charge them both. I have also charged it via a car lighter with a USB adapter.
--I use my iPad adapter... If you don't already have one, you can find quality UL tested wall adapters at Walmart pretty cheap. Just check the package for its amp limits and output. Not exactly sure what the 2600mah of the MVP needs, but there are charts online. I know grimmgreen.com has amp charts. I also know the bigger iPad adapter is quality and safe to use...
When charging, the menu display will maybe come up once and it can be adjusted, but, after that the menu is non responsive and won't come up until I take it off of the charger. This happens with the included cable and any other cable/charger combo I have tried. Normal?
--Yes, it's the same with mine.
does anyone know the approximate percentage of battery light left for when the light changes?
--On my V1 yellow means it is time to charge ASAP. Maybe an hour or two tops left. I've only done it once because I
forgot to charge. I just put it on the charger every nite before bed. You can not harm it in any way by charging early.
BUTTON WOBBLE (On/Off button on bottom isn't flush so may make it difficult to stand MVP up)
Like the v1, some don't like that the On/Off button on the bottom isn't flush, making it difficult to stand the device up on a surface.
MVP v1 button wobble fix: MVP Button Wobble Fix (easy way) (works for v2)
-- I used the tip of a chop stick and very carefully pushed down on the button until it was flush. No need for Hulk force.
-- That's the way I did it (button wobble thread above). 5 min with the closest thing I had (ball point pen) and done!
Innokin iTaste Carry Case - Real Leather
It has been noted that the new firing button is stiffer and potentially uncomfortable to keep pressed, especially for people with arthritis or similar issues.
--I just got my MVP V2.0 two days ago, but I also find the fire button is pretty easy to press.
--Mine is stiff enough that I can put it in my sweatshirt pocket and not worry about the button being pressed.
--I guess the stiffness may be relative. I do have to press down, but not hard enough that it bothers me.
--I believe the first batch has stiffer buttons and then they fixed the button with the second batch. Regardless I think my button isn't bad at all. And over the 2000+ rips I've taken on the device it has gotten even easier to push. Idk if that's because I'm used to it or if it actually got softer
--I like the stiffness of the fire button personally. I can throw this in my front pocket and not worry about accidental firing. I agree that it is stiffer then other mods I have used but I consider it more of feature than an issue
Everything seems to be working after 4 hours of use except maybe the ohm reader. Every Kanger head that is supposed to be 1.8 is reading 2.0. My multimeter reads them at 1.9 or 1.8. Not a big issue.
--There's probably an internal resistance in the MVP, or in the eGo/510 connection between it and your atty. If it's consistent, then yep, no biggie.
--Every head isn't going to be perfect. I have a 1.8 ohm head that was reading 1.9 - 2.0 ohm. And I just replaced it with a 1.8 ohm head and it reads 1.8 - 1.9 ohm
Does anyone know what the low end of the resistance checker is? I got myself a REO and I want to use my MVP to check resistance on the rm2. I'm not going crazy low, but I'm curious how low it will go?
--Lowest reading I have seen was 1.1 ohms then NON.
TOPPERS (CONFIRMED WORKING)
note: If it exists, someone has had problems firing it. See Troubleshooting section.
iClear 16 + 30
Mini Protank II
Cartos in general
-- the evod, you'll notice the bottom will sit flush and try to starve it for air (you'll see)it turns into a balancing act between screwing it in enuff to make battery contact and suffocate so what I'm saying, if you screw the evod down tight it does not draw as good, if you back it off "just a bit" you can suck threw it a little better (the way MVP is designed)
the mini protank is way diff - look at how tall the base is and where the 3 little vent holes are (way up higher compared to the evod) it just works great on the MVP as do the tanks that have the little 510 threads. reminder: only screw tanks till you feel the battery make contact, then just a `~* more and maybe don't mess with that beauty ring that came with the MVP, it's just for looks and might get stuck, play with MVP a few days first...if your mini and evod are new, be sure to wash them good also before use
--I have the IGO-L on the MVP2 and it is great. Very compact and I like the look a lot. Using 30ga kanthal with microcoil and cotton wicks. Definitely a winning combo.
--I think the big protank works great on it but just to bulky. mini protank is real nice. a black evod looks like it is made as part of my black MVP and works good.
--there is a extra short carto tank available from IBTanked called a "Halfling" tank. It uses a special made, short (20mm vs a standard 35mm or 45mm XL carto) 2 hole, single coil Smok brand carto in 2.0 or 3.2 ohms. They are (currently) available in the 22mm diameter size only and hold approximately 1.2ml... not counting what's in the carto itself, so closer to 1.8ml. You would have to ask IBT if they will be doing a 19 or 25 mm diameter Halfling again.
--About the iclear 30, can anyone tell me if it's best to untwist the wicks with it like you would with a stardust or is it good to go as is? Thinking that it might not be needed just cause of the number of wicks on the 30 but want to be sure when I get it before I fill 'er up.
--No need to untwist the wicks with it.
--Just a warning that you probably wont want to fill that iClear quite so full. If you fill
them all the way up they can tend to flood. You wont believe how much juice the burn but what a great mouth full.
--the big protank works really good, just to bulky
evod almost the best, just doesn't draw the greatest **
mini T3S see evod
iClear10S wow small hot clouds rebuild cheap repeat
cartos of course do very well and are stealthy cool
mini protank works great, looks great, fits great--tank capacity is great, you can vape a tank out
then rinse a coil & re-juice quickly and it's back to bizzness, guess It's My Favorite...
Looks great on the MVP... just a beautiful piece
Pyrex glass tank so you can use any juice you want without worries
Airy draw (iClear 30 has a tight draw)
Really cool vapor - Bottom coil
Muted flavor... the coils have a break in period of 2-3 days before you can really 'taste' them.
Nice warm vapor - Top Coil
A juice hog, I can literally see the juice go down in the tank as I vape it.
Great throat hit and vapor production - must be the dual coils
Nice flavor... no break in period, great flavor right away
Feels cheap compared to the Protank 2. The plastic tank itself just feel cheaply made.
-- If you are talking about the performance of the iclear clearomizers that come with the kit, then yes, clearomizers are somewhat of a jump from your standard atty/cart head combo. the iclears with the kit are top coil, meaning to get best performance you might have to tip them upside down every once in a while to ensure juice stays on the coil. Personally I'd invest in a bottom coil design like the Kanger Evod. There are others out there, I just know from personal use the Kanger EVOD and protank show good performance.
-- you should know, before buying an EVOD, that the vape is cooler (which some people like) and many people find the taste to be much more muted than the Iclear30,,,,,,
The overwhelming most frequent issue reported so far with the v2 is not being able to fire certain toppers (Good God does someone have a better general term than "toppers"?) It should also be noted that this problem has mostly been reported with Evods and T3S. The two most cited solutions are adjusting either the firing pin of the device itself or adjusting the coil pin of the Evod/et al, and using a 510/ego adapter.
Adjust MVP firing pin:
-- Was suggesting the center pin on the MVP May have gotten pushed down inside the housing too low. Not sure if there's a good fix for that if that is the case...You could try "pulling the pin" on your PT/evod/tank. Just get something like an eyeglass screwdriver and pry the center pin out *A LITTLE BIT*. Again, do this on the ProTank/evod/tank itself, not the MVP.Also, remember to not over-tighten your tanks when putting them on the device (especially if the pin on the MVP is loose). Just thread it down until you feel it make contact, then give it like another 1/2 turn... To steal a line from GrimmGreen, "snug, remember we're just snugging" lol...
-- I took a steak knife and just slightly pried up on the center pin of my MVP because the post on my igo-L won't budge. Now it will work as long as I don't push it back down with another atomizer.
Adjust clearo/tank pin:
-- My Kanger evods work fine but I had to pull out the center pin on the bottom of the head on one of them just a smidgen (and I mean very slight).
-- Got some small needle nose pliers? Good. On the coil head (evod) - gently grab the center coil wire retention pin... the one that is pressed into the white rubber insulator, and gently pull it out about 1mm (a little under 1/16") from the coil head assembly. Screw it on to the MVP and see if it fires.
-- get a fingernail between it and the rubber insulator and pull it out just a -smidge-, resulting in lengthening it so to touch the battery connection...
Try a 510/ego adapter for firing/connection issues with ego-threaded devices.
Try cleaning all connections.
i put my Kanger T2 on my mvp and the draw is extremely hard, i'm guessing the air holes are being blocked. does anyone know of a good fix for this?
--My V1 does not like the T2 either (my favorite clero), I use a 510-ego adapter and it works great. Does make it a little taller though. You can crack it back half a turn so it still makes contact and get a decent vape but not quite right.
--ok broke out a small drill bit and went to hacking on one of my t2's and i think i found a solution. i first
enlarged one of the air holes, and after that didn't work i too and slightly elongated the hole and that seemed to loosen it up.
--Mr Dremmell and I had a go at it and the best I was able to achieve was about the same as cracking it back half a turn. You can vape it but it is lacking air. You may have better luck however. The adapter allows it to work perfectly but as I said, it adds a little height. I use a simple beauty ring for a clean look.
-- My evods were drawing too hard, which of course was making them leak. Used the same 1/16" drill bit I use to wrap the coils, and drilled out 2 of the holes.
Just got a version2 about 3 weeks ago and now it's reading NON when I hit both buttons to read ohms...it actually fires a bit when I hit them??? So just to clear this up...my mvp2 is firing and VV/VW is working but today I tried checking ohms and NON is coming up...not only that but when I hit both buttons it fires!
--What've you got on top? It might be a coil that's shorted out. Or you might be a victim of the disappearing pin--where the center pin drops and doesn't make good contact.
--So, when you push the P and the U together to check ohms/batt, it fires and displays NON? However it will let you set your watts/volts and vape normally? That sounds like a short on the wiring somewhere. Maybe contact your vendor, see if they can service it or replace it...
--I tried a MT3S on mine today and got NON. It appeared that it was not threading on all the way so i got out my eGo-510 adapter. The beauty ring actually covers most of it. I replaced the MT3S and now it works fine. When i removed the MT3S the adapter came out with it so its a non issue when i swap out to my Pro Tank.
--Just an FYI, the beauty ring that came with mine was a little too tall so it prevented some of my tanks from making a connection. Couple of minutes with some fine grit sandpaper on the bottom of the ring and no issues since. Fine grit sandpaper is a good choice, and if you want you can even use a stone (like for sharpening knives). I use stones a lot at work deburring parts and they're great to take off very small amounts of material, and they make a good surface finish while keeping the surface good and flat. Just put a few drops of whatever oil you have handy (mineral spirits work great in my experience) and use figure 8 motions to remove material evenly.
Anyone else notice the REALLY SHARP edge on the beauty ring???!!
--Yeah, mine had a sharp edge too, i felt it dragging as I slid it over the supplied iClear 16 (I know it's
unnecessary but I just didn't wanna lose it, lol.) I couldn't stand it, being OCD a bit and a machinist, so I deburred it and also sanded and polished it so it would match the polished "chrome" on the clearomizer.
----The beauty ring can be an issue. It's mainly used for 510 to Ego conversion.I would leave the ring off. It adds unnecessary weight and doesn't look that good.
--The #6 Torx bit is the correct size if you want to blow your MVP or MVP2 apart. It doesn't fit all that snug in these particular screws (which look more like super course thread wood screws than machine screws), so use lots of downward pressure and a slow - "get a feel for what's goin' on" - kinda turning pressure.
MVP1 wraps apparently work on MVP2
Wraps seem to be what's in now. Can an idiot put one on?
--First time I put mine on it was a tiny bit crooked. I'm probably the only one that would have noticed but I took it off and straightened it. When I took it off, there was no residue but it had only been on a couple of minutes. It also stuck back really well so I think that even if you have to try a couple of times, it won't ruin the wrap. I haven't had it long enough to say if it will leave residue after being on for some time.
--Nothing a little Goo Gone won't take care of.(residue)
--one recommendation though; start with the button. Just seems to line up better.
--The good thing about J-wraps is that if you screw up, pull it off GENTLY so it doesn't stretch and re-position it. I've done this several times and I have also removed skins and put them away for later use when I was bored with the look. If you're careful then you can get them off without stretching. I've heard of others that have some sticky adhesive on them, but there's nothing sticky on the J-wraps.
Itazte MVP Vapor Skinz
Someone posted a template but then found that it didn't exactly fit. Hopefully a working one will show up!
I'm just posting this for now so I don't lose it....still working on it.