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Old 08-04-2009, 12:50 AM   #21
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Inhaling Cotton is not a very good idea guys----look it up as I have posted it so many times---it is bad news.

Sun
I'll certainly look up your posts, Sun. Personally, I haven't noticed any problems, and my cotton just looks damp when I'm done. But in any event, I'll search the forum and see what I can find.
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Old 08-04-2009, 01:16 AM   #22
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I'm thinking Sun was right, I just took the cotton out of the Iolite chamber and here's a picture.

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Old 08-04-2009, 01:26 AM   #23
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Tried a search for this Sun but couldn't find it. I'll take you at your word. Thanks. Back to the drawing board. Sigh.
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Old 08-04-2009, 01:35 AM   #24
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Tried a search for this Sun but couldn't find it. I'll take you at your word. Thanks. Back to the drawing board. Sigh.
Well so far the safest method I've found is herbal molasses with a few drops of nic juice on them. The molasses are really cheap to buy, and they will probably go bad before you even get a chance to use them. I think thats what I'll be sticking to from now on.
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:22 AM   #25
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Well so far the safest method I've found is herbal molasses with a few drops of nic juice on them. The molasses are really cheap to buy, and they will probably go bad before you even get a chance to use them. I think thats what I'll be sticking to from now on.
I just don't know. I mean, if Sun is right and the cotton is actually burning, then the same can be said of the herbal molasses . . . and both are plant materials.

I guess I'd like to see some more information about this. I'm not convinced that what you're seeing is burnt cotton . . . I think you're seeing the residue from the vaporized liquid. I could be wrong, though . . . wouldn't be the first time.
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:25 AM   #26
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I just don't know. I mean, if Sun is right and the cotton is actually burning, then the same can be said of the herbal molasses . . . and both are plant materials.

I guess I'd like to see some more information about this. I'm not convinced that what you're seeing is burnt cotton . . . I think you're seeing the residue from the vaporized liquid. I could be wrong, though . . . wouldn't be the first time.
Julie if you have any ideas I certainly wouldn't mind being the test subject ha a few people have offered to send me dead attys so as soon as i get them all in i'll try what sun recommended.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:09 PM   #27
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Cotton wool does not burn at 190 degrees. It is used as flask wadding in labs when claved. At 255 degrees it burns giving off hydrogen and oxygen, leaving a deposit of carbon. This is for organic pure cotton wool, stay away from other kinds.

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Old 08-04-2009, 01:37 PM   #28
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Cotton wool does not burn at 190 degrees. It is used as flask wadding in labs when claved. At 255 degrees it burns giving off hydrogen and oxygen, leaving a deposit of carbon. This is for organic pure cotton wool, stay away from other kinds.

Andy
Oops probably shouldn't have used one of those little cotton balls, don't think the stuff is pure at all.
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:39 PM   #29
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Great job on the vids Crash, I like the style and they feel friendly and informal which is nice.

I'll comment on the first set of vids first

Dropping eliquid right into the vapour chamber will cause it to boil up right away and the flavour will dissapear in moments. The Iolite just isnt suitable for that. An ecig vaporizes e-liquid a bit at a time rather than doing it all in one hit the way the Iolite wil do it.

Also, 24mg e-liquid is way too much for the Iolite unless you use the J-Adapter or a hose to cool the vapour before it reaches your mouth. The intensity and heat will overpower you and thats why you are coughing.

Now on to the alternative...

The cotton method works fairly well. I would recommend cutting e-liquid down to at least a quarter strength with PG or VG and using about 6 drops on the cotton. Ensure the liquid is only in the cotton, and not touching the aluminium chamber.

I prefer the gauze method. In older models with the removable heating pin, you can push the upper screen out of the herb chamber, invert it and install a few gauzes inside. This will act like the material in an atomizer, holding the liquid and vaporizing it in a slower, more gradual way. There is only room to do this when the heating pin is removed.

With newer models with the fixed pin and circlip fixed herb chamber screen, take half a dozen gauzes and punch holes in their centres. Slide these over the heating pin in a stack and drip the liquid onto them. Again they hold the eliquid and allow for a slower release of vapour.

To add eliquid to herbal molasses, I find it better to mix up a batch of molasses and eliquid so it is nicely blended rather than dropping it on top of the material. As the molasses works more slowly, mixing the eliquid in also makes it release the nicotine more slowly.

I have stopped using the foil crucible method, I just removed the lower screen to aid cleaning and put the molasses directly into the chamber. It is easy to clean up with a damp interdental brush or q-tip and I find it less hastle than making up the crusibles. Just my preference. I then do a weekly deep clean with Dr Green.

I would strongly recommend vaping on it through a short hose or getting the J-Adapter if you are finding the vape too hot.

Andy
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:52 PM   #30
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Hey Frog I've got loads of screens here and I've got the older version so I'm able to take he pin out. I'll give the gauze method a go. Also I was thinking about maybe using a small hooka pipe with it?? I saw you had pics up of that J-adapter somewhere (different forum maybe) I tried to find something similar but had no luck, also I recall you saying you had to modify it. So any advice on where I can get that?? Wouldn't mine giving it a go, though personally I'm enjoying the warm vapor.
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