10/2/16
The other day I learned how to remove the carbon fibre panels on my billet boxes. It's actually easier than I thought. In the past I just veneered over the top to get the look. So I have started practicing for the next project.
Stage 1
The base box is a black anodised billet box clone (thanks to one of the Aussies..Al) I am much too chicken to do this to one of my genuines.
There are companies that sell panels premade for you to change over yourself. One of them is dripnvap.com but a quick search of etsy results show there are quite a few others. Door Panels (real wood) - Drip'n Vap
For anyone who is interested they have a YouTube video that shows you how to remove the carbon fibre panels from a genuine Billet box.
Preparation of the base box.
Removing the carbon fibre panels from the clone is not so easy. The carbon fibre is only .38mm thick and the rest of the space is filled with a black double side glue filled spongy fabric. The panel itself is too flimsy to lift and separate in the same way as the video. So you need to use solvent to start the removal process. If you do this please check that the solvent you you does not affect the anodising of the billet box clone.
We used turps to start and then with toothpick wedges and cotton buds dipped in turps, carefully levered the panels away. Again take care not to scratch the anodised visible surface of the box, You are left with this gooey black glug of glue/spongy fabric. Again using turps we carefully cleaned this from the base metal of the box and door.
This is messy and not something you should try in your Sunday best clothes. (Note to self remove nail varnish before playing with turps and black glue)
Stage 2 - Preparation of the wood panels.
Thinish slices were cut from the block using a bandsaw.
These panels were then passed through the drum sander to get flat thinner panels.
Panels were wet (turps) sanded with 500, then 1000 grit to achieve the base surface.
Panels were then cut to shape and allowed to relax.
(If you were using wood laminates bought from a specialty wood shop then then you could use the carbon panels as a master to cut your new panels)
We have decided that the natural colour of these particular panels looks good enough that stain is not necessary.
There will be a couple of coats of lacquer with some fine sanding inbetween coats so it will be a few days before the panels are complete and the box put back together.
You choice of finishing depends on what goes best with the wood you choose but we will use a polyurethane wiping lacquer and set the panels in place using a tight bond contact adhesive.
Some minor tweaking of the bevelled edges may be required to allow for the wood movement.
19/2/16 stage 3
Well it is complete. I love it.
The process of finishing always seems to take forever. (Like watching paint dry LOL) but the result is worth it. 5 coats of varnish with micro sanding between each coat. Surface is so glossy and the wood really shines through. Brilliant now to give it a week to super cure and then I can use it. (Plus it gives me time to pick a special drip tip for it)
Just another play around. This is some bench top laminate that I thought might look nice.
Pieces were cut to oversize then sanded to fit. They are adhered using 3M double sided super sticky sheets.
An interesting take and very hard wearing surface. It all back together and feels very nice in the hand.
There are so many laminates that it is up to the imagination.
The other day I learned how to remove the carbon fibre panels on my billet boxes. It's actually easier than I thought. In the past I just veneered over the top to get the look. So I have started practicing for the next project.
Stage 1
The base box is a black anodised billet box clone (thanks to one of the Aussies..Al) I am much too chicken to do this to one of my genuines.
There are companies that sell panels premade for you to change over yourself. One of them is dripnvap.com but a quick search of etsy results show there are quite a few others. Door Panels (real wood) - Drip'n Vap
For anyone who is interested they have a YouTube video that shows you how to remove the carbon fibre panels from a genuine Billet box.
Preparation of the base box.
Removing the carbon fibre panels from the clone is not so easy. The carbon fibre is only .38mm thick and the rest of the space is filled with a black double side glue filled spongy fabric. The panel itself is too flimsy to lift and separate in the same way as the video. So you need to use solvent to start the removal process. If you do this please check that the solvent you you does not affect the anodising of the billet box clone.
We used turps to start and then with toothpick wedges and cotton buds dipped in turps, carefully levered the panels away. Again take care not to scratch the anodised visible surface of the box, You are left with this gooey black glug of glue/spongy fabric. Again using turps we carefully cleaned this from the base metal of the box and door.
This is messy and not something you should try in your Sunday best clothes. (Note to self remove nail varnish before playing with turps and black glue)
Stage 2 - Preparation of the wood panels.
Thinish slices were cut from the block using a bandsaw.
These panels were then passed through the drum sander to get flat thinner panels.
Panels were wet (turps) sanded with 500, then 1000 grit to achieve the base surface.
Panels were then cut to shape and allowed to relax.
(If you were using wood laminates bought from a specialty wood shop then then you could use the carbon panels as a master to cut your new panels)
We have decided that the natural colour of these particular panels looks good enough that stain is not necessary.
There will be a couple of coats of lacquer with some fine sanding inbetween coats so it will be a few days before the panels are complete and the box put back together.
You choice of finishing depends on what goes best with the wood you choose but we will use a polyurethane wiping lacquer and set the panels in place using a tight bond contact adhesive.
Some minor tweaking of the bevelled edges may be required to allow for the wood movement.
19/2/16 stage 3
Well it is complete. I love it.
The process of finishing always seems to take forever. (Like watching paint dry LOL) but the result is worth it. 5 coats of varnish with micro sanding between each coat. Surface is so glossy and the wood really shines through. Brilliant now to give it a week to super cure and then I can use it. (Plus it gives me time to pick a special drip tip for it)
Just another play around. This is some bench top laminate that I thought might look nice.
Pieces were cut to oversize then sanded to fit. They are adhered using 3M double sided super sticky sheets.
An interesting take and very hard wearing surface. It all back together and feels very nice in the hand.
There are so many laminates that it is up to the imagination.
