(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide

Last update on: 4/16/2019

If you are considering purchasing a particular 18650 battery for vaping, just remember that...

  • there are none with a true continuous amp rating over 30A.
  • there are a lot of 18650’s rated over 3000mAh but none of them can be rated over 10A and many are rated a lot lower than that.
  • there are none rated at 3000mAh with a true continuous rating over 20A.
  • there is only one with 30 amps with more than 1500 mAh capacity (Samsung 20-S)
  • battery company pulse or "max" amp ratings are useless and can't be used to compare batteries between brands or models.

There is a LOT of technical information in this blog. I have tried to simplify the information for the average reader the best that I can. Please take a few days to read over and process this information to avoid information overload.

Li-ion (lithium) batteries remain our best solution for a high current rechargeable battery for e-cigarettes. They are not a perfect solution, but they are the best currently available. They can fail dangerously if abused or misused, at times spectacularly. Proper care and treatment keeps failures to a minimum, but even with the best of intentions, an unplanned and dangerous "energetic release of energy" may still rarely occur. As vapers we must accept that risk and learn how to reduce those risks by educating ourselves on proper safe battery habits, understand battery specifications, and learn which batteries to choose for the way we choose to vape.

As e-cig mod users, we depend heavily upon batteries to be able to vape. To assist novices to choose which external (removeable) battery to use in their mod I have written this guide. Our choices in batteries are Lithium Ion batteries, the same "chemistry" often used in cell phones, laptops, cordless power tools, high end flashlights, and remote control cars. However, there are multiple classes of Lithium batteries and only one class is really idealy suitable for vaping:

  • Lithium IMR or Li-Mn (Lithium Manganese) Many companies today describe their batteries as being IMR, but in truth they are likely a "hybrid chemistry".
  • IMR/Hybrid batteries -- Newer sub-class of Li-ion batteries consisting of IMR, INR, or NCR chemistry. Currently the most common and recommended battery type)
  • protected ICR Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) -- Considered to be obsolete for vaping today.
  • LiPo (Lithium polymer) batteries are the non-replaceable internal batteries in the eGo and regulated box mods. I will not be discussing them here other than to say they are not safer chemistry, and depend upon the protection circuitry of electronic mods to even be considered relatively safe to use. We aren't afforded the opportunity to choose which battery the manufacturer puts into these devices, so I won't waste space here discussing them further.


Guide to Battery Specification Terms:
Batteries can generally be broken down by two major characteristics or specifications: capacity (mah rating) and amps (current or power handling). Understanding these two characteristics must be understood to make an educational choice between battery models.

When choosing which battery to buy we must pick which characteristic is your priority for the application that you will use it. You can't have both the highest mah and highest amps in one battery. This is due to the limits of current battery chemistry & technology. (Safety should always be your number one priority.)

Capacity or mAh Rating
- an approximation for how long a battery charge should last from 100% charge to when the battery will cut off. Roughly, 100 mAh = 1 hour usage with low drain applications like a flashlight. With the higher performance demands of most vape gear today, your estimation of how long the battery will last between charges will be lower than that.

The "best battery" is not always the one with the largest mAh rating. In most vaping applications a higher amp rating (CDR or continuous discharge rate) determines the better battery.

Amp Rating - or "continuous discharge rate" (CDR). In layman's terminology, this is the maximum current available of the cell.

Technically this is the maximum electrical current at which the battery can be discharged continuously before the battery will fail. This specification is set by the manufacturer, and is a standard measurement in the industry.

The "pulse or burst discharge rate" is not a standard measurement and varies from one manufacturer/vendor to another, making comparisons from one company to another company impossible, and therefore should never be relied upon. Be wary that an advertizer or vendor may describe their battery using a pulse rating; find out what the "continuous discharge rating" is (CDR).

The CDR isn't a suggestion.
It's the safe operating limit of the cell.

Basic rule of thumb at the moment, to get CDR amps you have to sacrifice mAh and run time. To get more mAh and run time you have to sacrifice amps and CDR. You won't find a battery which has both the highest amp rating and highest mAh capacity; that's the way it works with batteries.



:danger: Beware of dubious marketing campaigns which over-rate their battery amp ratings. These disreputable vendors and manufacturers are usually of the aftermarket or re-wrapper category. These companies attempt to confuse consumers with "max amp" specifications. Chinese brands like Efest, IMREN, MXJO, AWT and the "---- Fire" brands are the worst perpetrators of this practice. Don't fall victim to their advertising scams.

Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded) Battery?

Look specifically for the continuous discharge rate (CDR) in the battery specifications. Burst or pulse ratings are just that, they can do a high amperage for less than 1 second, but longer than that you begin to damage the cells. You want to choose batteries by their "continuous" rate, never for their burst. This is the danger of sub-ohming and not knowing the ins and outs of your batteries.

Any “max” or “pulse” rating is useless unless we know the length of the pulse, the time between the pulses, and the criteria used to set the rating (Voltage sag? Temperature? Run time? A combination of those?). Without knowing this, and all companies using the same pulse lengths, rest times, and criteria, we can’t use the max/pulse ratings for comparing any batteries. They are useless.

Battery Amp Ratings: Continuous vs Pulse Ratings
Battery pulse ratings are useless! | E-Cigarette Forum
There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A!




Technical discussion of a Purple Efest battery venting incident in a regulated mod



CHOOSING THE RIGHT BATTERY FOR YOUR APPLICATION. HOW DO YOU VAPE?
  • If you use standard resistance coils (1-3 ohms), either with a mechanical mod (no electronic chip) or low wattage (<20 watts) regulated mod (electronic chip), then you could choose an battery with more mAh capacity as your first priority. You won't need more than 10 amps CDR using this resistance, but you should still still use one with a minimum at least 10 amps. Generally speaking, comparing two batteries with the same CDR but different mah ratings, the battery with more mAh (capacity) will last longer per charge than one which has less mAh.

If you use sub-ohm coils (<1 ohm) in a mechanical mod, or a high wattage (>20 watts) regulated mod, then the amp specification becomes your top priority. Once you find a group of batteries with the necessary amp rating, then choose from that group the battery with the higher mAh rating. Coils under the resistance of 1.0 ohm require more amp current due to their higher amp draw. Later in this article I will explain how to determine your personal amp requirement.



Mooch's Recommended 18650-size Batteries
Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR
363984-e565e32efab1e4227719866a9a8b957c.jpg
*
Sony 18659VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR
413691-6d99870bef0f9d8bd4cfb656baac2f7b.jpg
*


LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR
346357-b4b716723a22088fab0a5bf10f1b49ad.jpg



Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR
376248-b8539a19e3674529dd18c0d4a7b45fbd.jpg

LG 18650HE4 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
373819-b889be4c74fcdafa3f81b77387c1039f.jpg

Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
480893-f9aa259b6278bd14930b251db599258b.jpg

Sanyo UR18650 NSX, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
378261-aaf8c523bf96f24707f538807755e5d3.jpg

Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR
375725-e80826e842f37ec825e3c9d326022214.jpg

Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR
397493-cc91892a31586c163dc419ce4bd3e8dd.jpg


Samsung 18650-24S, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR
567779-1876260dcd39b9dcc8127176faccf541.jpg


Molicel 18650-P26A, 2600 mah 25 amp CDR
629571-13cb99aac009e117529da238509cbf36.jpg


LG 18650 HD4 2100 mah 25 amp CDR
385835-3a8df09a46862337422b3b76a151fcf0.jpg

LG 18650 HD2 2000 mah 25 amp CDR
376922-73545b66ab0955890ea3cc74c9adb39f.jpg



LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR
380919-214d0ffa29b60f062ba7640627ad5605.jpg

LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
377182-6c570506e6ae8e85f30ce64b386a8f13.jpg

LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
380403-c8fa9e7b310e40c393b6edff15726a5f.jpg

Sony 18650VTC3 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
413689-fb8624662417dd0ce65f64fe8ca1a0a2.jpg


Samsung 18650-20S 2000mah 30 amp CDR
567575-254dcc9f3000323cb489ab10e8b02d13.jpg


*
Manufacturer's CDR is 15A. The Samsung 30Q datasheet (Section 7.9) mentions operation at 20A. Operation at that level can be done as long as we don’t let the battery get above 75°C, its maximum rated operating temperature. This holds true for the Sony VTC6 battery as well. These are not a high performance “power” cell, designed for high current. They are a high capacity “energy” cell designed for low to moderate power levels and long running time. At higher current levels the voltage sag and power loss in the cell are huge. Do not exceed 20A.


Mooch's Recommended 21700-size Batteries

Samsung 21700 40T 4000mAh 25 amp CDR
617091-1b2606fe1514975e65cccbb43b95b340.jpg


Molicel 21700 4000mAh 30 amp CDR
628037-83c66fb55b53c95adc47554beb08c510.jpg
(best all around 21700, a bit wider in diameter than other 21700's)

Samsung 21700 30T 3000 mah 35 amp CDR
567231-ab728bcf0386fde14c645fe36e93c6d4.jpg
(highest amp rating for a 2100)

Samsung 21700 50E2 5000 mah 10 amp CDR
604479-43dc44c01662840ef65da1b84e1c9d34.jpg
(highest capacity 21700, but only 10A, must have "2" on third line of battery)



Mooch's Recommended 20700-size Batteries


Sanyo 20700 NCR2070C 3500 mah 30 amp CDR
626025-ba7e54b2fabc23bfe8c3b909304adb9c.jpg


Sanyo 20700 20700B 4000mAh 15 amp CDR
448245-60d505eabf5108c0b830230043553726.jpg
(best if used under 10A and under 30 watts)

Molicel INR20700A 2800mAh 30 amp CDR
594291-9c6d0c493a4d813258d234cad9443aba.jpg






Unregulated Mechanical Mods

Use the appropriate battery with an adequate amp rating specification depending upon the current draw of your coil build (*see the chart immediately below for coil amp draw vs amp rating).
* Coil amp draw from Ohm's Law calculations for Mechanical Mods:

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.15 ohms = 28 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

Learn how to find your specific battery's amp rating, and how to determine the amp draw of your coil by using an Ohm's Law Calculator. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations



Regulated Electronic Mods

On a regulated mod the coil resistance is essentially irrelevant. What dictates the amp draw on the battery is the wattage you set
with the processor chip. Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod If using a high wattage regulated mod, use a 20 - 30 amp CDR IMR battery, which ever your mod's manufacturer recommends. The wattage setting that you plan to use on a regulated mod will determine the amp requirement in this application, not the atomizer resistance.

I'll repeat, with a regulated device the resistance of the coil is irrelevant. Regulated mods separate the input and output voltage, in other words they separate the battery from the atomizer. The only relevant value is the wattage, and the remaining voltage in the battery. The wattage is generated by the mod by multiplying the volts by the amps. As the voltage falls, the mod will increase the amp draw to maintain the selected wattage from the remaining voltage level.

Are you using a single, dual, or triple battery mod? In the interests of keeping things simple:

-If you use a good quality 15 amp CDR battery like the Samsung 30Q or Sony VTC6, then you are good up to 45 watts per battery; 90 watts using two; 135 watts for three batteries.

-If you use a good quality 20 amp CDR battery like the LG HG2 or Samsung 25R then you are good for 60 watts per battery. If using a 2-battery regulated mod, you're good for 120 watts as you have two batteries. If you are using a 3-battery mod, you're good for 180.

-If you use a single 25 amp CDR battery like the Sony VTC5A, then you are good for 75 watts per battery, 150 watts for two batteries, and 225 watts with three.

-If you use a single 30 amp CDR battery like the LG HB6 you are good up to 90 watts; with a pair of 30 amp CDR batteries you could safely do 180 watts.


WATTAGE PER SINGLE BATTERY on REGULATED MOD:
(Total wattage doubles using 2 batteries; Triples using 3 batteries.)

Up to 45W:
Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR
363984-e565e32efab1e4227719866a9a8b957c.jpg

Sony 18650VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR
413691-6d99870bef0f9d8bd4cfb656baac2f7b.jpg

Up to 60W:
LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR
346357-b4b716723a22088fab0a5bf10f1b49ad.jpg

LG 18650HE4 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
373819-b889be4c74fcdafa3f81b77387c1039f.jpg

Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
480893-f9aa259b6278bd14930b251db599258b.jpg

Sanyo UR18650NSX, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
378261-aaf8c523bf96f24707f538807755e5d3.jpg

Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR
376248-b8539a19e3674529dd18c0d4a7b45fbd.jpg

Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR
375725-e80826e842f37ec825e3c9d326022214.jpg

Up to 75W:
LG 18650 HD4 2100 mah 25 amp CDR
385835-3a8df09a46862337422b3b76a151fcf0.jpg

LG 18650 HD2 2000 mah 25 amp CDR
376922-73545b66ab0955890ea3cc74c9adb39f.jpg

Samsung 18650-24S, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR
567779-1876260dcd39b9dcc8127176faccf541.jpg

Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR
397493-cc91892a31586c163dc419ce4bd3e8dd.jpg

Molicel 18650-P26A, 2600 mah 25 amp CDR
629571-13cb99aac009e117529da238509cbf36.jpg

Up to 90W:
LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR
380919-214d0ffa29b60f062ba7640627ad5605.jpg

LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
377182-6c570506e6ae8e85f30ce64b386a8f13.jpg

LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
380403-c8fa9e7b310e40c393b6edff15726a5f.jpg

Samsung 18650-20S 2000mah 30 amp CDR
567575-254dcc9f3000323cb489ab10e8b02d13.jpg




High Quality, Brand Name Batteries.

Not all 18650 cells are created equal. This is where the specific manufacturers and suppliers come into play. With few exceptions, there are only four major reputable manufacturers with specifications that you can trust: Lg, Panasonic/Sanyo, Samsung, and Sony.

There are many different "makers" of batteries who purchase second/third quality cells in bulk, put their own wraps on the cells, advertise inflated specifications, and charge an arm and a leg for what is in truth a "lesser" battery. Don't fall for their hype.

I recommend buying only the batteries from the lists below by LG, Samsung, Sanyo, or Sony, paying particular attention to model numbers and their specifications. After the manufacturer and model number, the capacity is listed next and the tested amp rating is listed last.

If the battery you are currently using is not shown in Mooch's Recommended Batteries chart, its because his tests revealed that it didn't meet its advertised specifications, or became too hot during his bench testing to be considered safe.



ECF battery geru @Mooch has been doing independent battery testing since 2016. Before you purchase a particular battery, look for the results of how that battery tested in the below link:


  • Lower Quality Brand-Name Batteries. Trustfire, Ultrafire, and Surefire are a lower-tier name brand battery in terms of quality and safety. Not recommended. The same goes for AWT, Basen, Cloud Chaser, Efest, Imren, MXJO, and Vappower brands, among others. Independent tests have revealed that these have over-rated specifications from what is advertised. Most of these brands are considered "re-wraps".
What is a "Re-Wrapped" or "Aftermarket Battery"?
There are many battery companies that are not actually manufacturers, but are simply companies who rebrand other manufacturer's batteries. Meaning, they do not make their own cells and are just buying cells from other manufacturers and “rewrapping or rebranding" them with their own plastic wrapper that has their own brand name and their own logo. Also known as "aftermarket" batteries.

While Lg and Samsung/Sony/Sanyo headquarters originate from Korea and Japan respectively, most aftermarket batteries come from Chinese companies. The first thing vapors must realize is that many of these brands have nothing to lose, and can make greatly exaggerated claims regarding performance with no bad fall back. There is no authoratative organization which keeps the battery industry honest. They make a LOT of money for very little work and generally charge more than the original manufacturer because they exaggerate their specifications as a means to trick consumers that their battery is better. Don't fall for their hype.

For example ultrafire will claim 6000mah capaicty in cells that are tested to be only 1000mah. Of course the other grossly exaggerated stat is the amp rating...and to sell to vapors, many of these companies will make outrageous specification claims. We really recommend that consumers just stay away from all aftermarket batteries. Here is a list of battery brands highly suspected of being re-wraps:
  • Efest
  • MXJO
  • AW
  • AWT
  • Boost
  • Sigelei
  • Imren
  • Ultrafire
  • Trustfire
  • Orbtronic
  • EH
  • GTL
  • Robiton
  • AWT
  • EagleTac
  • AmpMax
  • Basen
  • BattEnergy
  • EnerPower
  • Fenix
  • Intl-outdoor
  • Redilast
  • Xtar

  • Generic Batteries. Not recommended. "No name" or an off brand printed on the wrapper. Seen at FastTech, Amazon & EBay at cheap prices or thrown in for free in a kit when you purchase a mod from China. These are unknown batteries of unknown quality by an unknown manufacturer, and not worth the risk using in your mod. Never assume because they were included with your mod that they are safe, or the correct battery to use. Do not harvest batteries from an old laptop computer.
  • Counterfeit Brand Name Batteries. Be cautious when shopping for batteries, particularly if not using a well known, reputable supplier who specialty is batteries.


  • If uncertain about the quality or type of a battery, don't buy or use it. Do not use over-the-counter alkaline batteries (wrong chemistry) like those from Radio Shack, etc. To insure getting authentic name brand IMR batteries, buy only from trusted e-cig/flashlight vendors such as:
  • Use the type of battery that your mod calls for.
  • Battery Chargers. Get the best charger that you can reasonably afford, again from a reputable e-cig vendor. Statistically most battery incidents occur while batteries are charging. A higher end charger will have better built-in protections.
Pila, Xtar, Nitecore, and Efest are the most recommended charger brands. Recommend batteries be charged on a flame-resistant surface: stove top, marble countertop, metal baking pan, pyrex glass dish. Do not charge batteries if you are not physically present to keep an eye on them.

Guide to Choosing a Li-ion Battery Charger

Many of today's higher-end box chargers have "intelligent" technology designed for the charger to shut down when the battery reaches full voltage (4.2 volts), however electronics can and do fail. Don't trust the safety of your home & family to a faulty electronic circuit or charging cord.

Charging external batteries in the mod via USB port

Rest batteries after charging
One commonly-reported factor in almost all the incidents we hear of where batteries failed violently while in use is that they were taken directly off the charger and then used immediately, at which point they failed.

Because of this, we think it may be a good idea to rest batteries after charging them. This advice will not be found in the usual 'reference bibles' on batteries, but we see more and different reports than others. Therefore we now advise:

Do not use batteries directly after charging them. Use a battery or batteries you previously charged, and that have rested for several hours. This is especially important if using a stacked pair for higher voltage, as statistically the risk is far higher.​

(The above suggestion is based on anectdotal observation only.)​
  • Always use safe battery practices and common sense with all batteries. Even the safest battery available to us can fail. IMR battery failure Most common user-error battery failures are the result of too fast of a discharge -- from the fire button inadvertantly pushed for too long, or the battery being shorted from metal objects (keys, change, etc), completing the electric circuit when carrying a battery in a pocket or purse. Use plastic Battery Cases. Do not stack batteries unless your mod was actually designed to use stacked batteries.
efest-18650-battery-case-650x650.jpg

  • Long term storage of unused batteries should be done in a dry place at room temperature (69 degrees F) at 40% voltage. Dispose of old unused batteries at a recycling center such as Radio Shack or Hope Depot.


Routinely Check Your Battery Wraps and Insulation Rings for Damage -- Extremely Important!

The plastic insulation wraps are very fragile, so if you are not careful when installing/removing batteries from the mod/charger, that plastic can tear exposing the bare metal of the "can" or cell. That exposure of bare metal is what can create shorts to the battery. The insulation rings on the positive end of the battery also protect the can's metal surface from making contact with a metalic surface, also resulting in a short.

Batteries and charger may get warm to touch; that is relatively normal. Neither should feel hot to touch; not so hot that they become uncomfortable to hold for 30 seconds.


Are your battery wraps and insulator rings intact?

Why Repairing Batteries With Cracked Wraps Is Absolutely Essential

Battery tears

You might ask why do battery manufacturers use such a fragile wrap? Well, remember, the batteries we use for vaping were never intended to be used like we use them. They were designed to be used in battery packs for the auto industry and power tools...never intended to be removed and re-inserted frequently like we vapers do.

18650-battery-safety-4.jpg

v1l5y40mh84y.jpg


images


All of these batteries are in urgent need of repair. Do not use until repaired or replaced.

In addition, don't use a battery that has become dented from physical abuse. It can't be repaired, so dispose of it properly and purchase a replacement.

jEdB6.jpg



About the Battery Manufacturers's Warning to Not Use Them in E-Cigarette Devices

New vapers might believe that the 18650 batteries we use for vaping were designed with us in mind. Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, manufacturers like LG, Samsung, and Sony would rather we not use their batteries in electronic cigarettes.

sony-battery-jpg.529035

MIjuK1B.jpg

lg-hg2-with-warning_large.jpg



These batteries were exclusively designed for the auto industry and power tool industry. They were designed to be used only in battery packs. These battery packs have their own custom-designed battery management system (BMS) that ensures configurable, consistent protection at desired current, voltage, and temperature settings to ensure long battery life and to ensure their safe use.

images
Battery Packs with Battery Management Systems

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As vapers, we are primarily using single battery cells alone by themselves, which often means we may be using these single cells at or above their recommended specifications. This application is not the manufacturer's intended use for these cells. They were never meant to be used alone or singly. BMS's have their own safety circuitry and in some cases a temperature control circuit. This is why you may see warnings that these batteries are not for e-cigarette use.

However, these batteries are the best option that we have for high power in a smallish package. They become available for our use only when there is a surplus from warehouse depots who then offer them for sale to suppliers in the battery market trade.

If we have personal knowledge about these batteries by doing our homework, consistantly using safe battery practices, and not abusing them, then we can knowingly "accept the risks" involved and limiting the chances for error that could result in a catastrophy. Nearly all battery incidents are the result from "user error".

Resources:

Mods, Batteries, & Safer Vaping

Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University

PBusardo's Mod Battery Information Guide

IMR Battery Specification Comparison

A Beginner's Guide to Lithium Batteries

Are You Using a "Rewrap" Battery? Exposing The WORST Brands In ...

18650 Battery Buying Guide for Vapor Users

What does IMR mean?

Sub-Ohm Vaping: Discussion, Safety, Battery Info, Warnings

Battery Data | Deus Ex Vaporis

God of Steam's Getting Started: Battery Basics

What does a battery's C Rating mean?

Battery Specifications and Online Calculators

Exactly why 18650 battery names like VTC4, VTC5, Samsung 25R, are confusing everybody

Green Samsung 18650 25R5 vs. Blue 25R2

Best 18650 Battery (2015)?

Best 18650 Battery for 0.2 ohm?




____________________________​

Comments

Lebertine89, your understanding is solid. The safer chemistry IMR & IMR/hybrid batteries do not require protection. Just be sure to stay within the batteries specifications for amp limits (continuous discharge rating).
 
Cheers buddy, its also worth mentioning that one of the main reason i think people have choosen Li-ion/Li-Mn batteries over others is because they dont have a memory like old style batteries and can be partially discharged then recharged without loss of capcity.
 
I just purchased my first Provari and ordered 2 (AW IMR 8650 2000mah) from RTD Vapor and a Xtar charger from them. Should I be confident in my purchase? Seems like RTD sells real AW batteries.
 
Speedracer, that is the only battery that Provape recommends for the Provari. RTD is the best choice of vendor to buy AW batteries because they are an authorized AW vendor and you can be certain not to get a counterfeit AW battery because they buy directly from Andrew Wan (AW).
 
Baditude;bt12028 said:
Speedracer, that is the only battery that Provape recommends for the Provari. RTD is the best choice of vendor to buy AW batteries because they are an authorized AW vendor and you can be certain not to get a counterfeit AW battery because they buy directly from Andrew Wan (AW).

Thank you so much. Reading your blog on batteries should scare a lot of people and get them thinking about cheap bargain batteries. I had no idea how some companies can sell fake or used batteries as the real thing.

If you have time to answer I noticed the charger has several charging switches. Should I be using the trickle charge on the batteries? I should have my Provari and batteries by this weekend. I'm excited.
 
thank you so much for taking the time do do this rite up on battery's i perched the INR18650-25R 2500mAh 20A and it hits soooo much harder than my efest 1865o i am using it on a k101 with a keyfun plus v2 with a 1.0 ohm 26 g coil love the dense vapor it creates thanks.
 
Baditude,

Nicely written and very helpful on the question I was wondering about on the difference between L-ion and LiMn batteries.

Are there an older version of vtc's that are Li-ion? I was just wondering because I almost ordered 4 of the Xstar re branded vtc4 from Battery Junction but noticed that they are Li-ion. Are these types more just flashlight batteries with the same vtc4 name? Or are they old stock?

Needing to pick up another 4 vtc's for a IVP3 dual battery regulated box mod that I am waiting on. I currently use vtc 4's because they did not have the 5's when I needed them and then I just kind of stuck with them.

Wife uses the panasonic 3100 3.7 18650 but I am not finding clear specs on them and I am considering replacing them as they are Li-ion as well. She uses them in a VTR a regulated 15 watt box mod. Any info on the panasonics?

We use a 4 bay nitecore intelcharger. I unplug it when not in use to just to be safe.

Anyways thanks again for taking the time to write this.
 
@ Fictitious Character. Battery classification and labels are very loosely thrown around by vendors and consumers alike. Technically, all lithium batteries are Li-ion, including Li-Mn (IMR) and all of the IMR/hybrid batteries which includes NCR (Panasonic hybrid) and INR (Samsung hybrid) batteries. It's admittedly confusing, and I'm often not sure at times under what sub-classification a battery falls under.

The Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mah battery is an IMR/hybrid battery, with a 6.8 amp continuous discharge rating. Like the NCR18650B 3400 mah battery, it is not considered a high drain battery, but it is a safe chemistry battery. Their mixed chemistry is heavily weighted to the ICR side, and performance-wise they should be considered more of a low-drain ICR battery than an high drain IMR battery. These batteries were designed for flashlights. To be blunt, there are better batteries than these for a regulated mod.
 
Baditude, thanks for your work. My question is why won't my XTAR 18650 batteries that are claimed to be Sony VTC4's fit my Vamo but are a bit too long to fit my Innokin VTR, which is why I bought them? I purchased four of them from the Xtar web site. Thanks.
 
Baditude I looking for some advice.
I've sort of done things abit backwards...I purchased my batteries my new mod before reading this thread and I'm abit worried I've got cheap nasty batteries. So I kinda want your opinion cos you sound like you know what your talking about.
I purchased them from my local ecig shop and he talked me into buying the 18650 instead of the smaller ones. After reading your post it looks like mine are the unbranded type, its just a grey battery with stamped black writing, no make or anything and the box says lithium-ion battery.....do you think i should I be concerned? Any help would be great, thanx
 
First: thanks, Baditude, for a highly informative page. Second: how does this information apply to mods that take *two* 18650 batteries? I have a Siglei 100W box, and a Dovpo E-Mech. They claim to be able to handle 0.1 ohm and 0.5 ohm, respectively; each one takes two 18650 batteries. Right now, I'm using twin Samsung pink batteries ("eVic compatible"), but I'm also using commercial coils of 1.6+ ohms. However, I have a few RBAs ready to build, and will probably create some 0.5-1.0 ohm coils. I know that 20A of battery would get me to 0.8 ohm -- but I've no idea how the dual battery setup affects things. Any advice?
 
heyjohn;bt12319 said:
Right now, I'm using twin Samsung pink batteries ("eVic compatible"), but I'm also using commercial coils of 1.6+ ohms. However, I have a few RBAs ready to build, and will probably create some 0.5-1.0 ohm coils. I know that 20A of battery would get me to 0.8 ohm -- but I've no idea how the dual battery setup affects things. Any advice?
First of all, I'm pretty sure that those pink Samsungs are ICR batteries (not high drain or safe chemistry), and will have only 3 - 4 amps continuous discharge (not enough amperage for safe sub-ohm use). You'll need at least a 20 amp continuous IMR battery for sub-ohms.

The light blue Samsung 25R are IMR chemistry, high drain, safe chemistry, and 20 amps continuous discharge.

Stacking batteries only doubles the voltage output, not the mAh or amperage output.
 
Hi Bad,

what's the amp limit for my AW IMR 14500 3.7V 600mAh? Using for powering my REO Mini (original). Thanks.
 
Baditude;bt10339 said:
And who made you a mod battery expert? What percentage of mod batteries used today are NiMH? Only a fraction if any.

Our ECF forum manager Rolygate is a reknown battery expert and wrote this blog about mod batteries and battery safety. RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES

He states that IMR batteries are indeed the safest batteries for mod usage. I took much of the information for my blog from his data and from other sources listed as references at the bottom of the page. No where have I read that NiMH batteries are the safest. Regardless of this, NiMH batteries are a non-factor for the general vaping community. But thanks for your opinion.

I was conducting a research about the max amp of some cells, and Google for some reasons directed me to this post.
By reading it, it almost pulled the ink off my pen (well, not literally) and provide a reply.
Other than a vaper, I believe to know a thing or two about batteries. I did my stuff a lifetime ago into another world (the flashlights community) at the onset of lithium technology; in another virtual space, in year 2003-2004 we developed the first protected rechargeable Li-Ion 123 (the entire operation went bust since the FarEast manufacturer started selling the thing on its own).
The first Li-Ions using lithium cobaltite 18650 were developed in US (well, Canada) with a laptop in mind. Long runtime, long cycle life. Safety was addressed, first time in battery history, with protective circuitry (SMD power MOSFET just developed) and a dedicated data bus. Double protection (in the charger and battery) were (and still are) the norm in all western design using Li-Ion. This because lithium cobaltite, the ion-storage material, has the bad habit to self-combust in absence of oxygen at temperature above 160 Celsius, with pyrotechnique results, and is unestinguishable. To this day, Li-Ion batteries are not sellable to general public for this very liability. Use of bare Li-Ion batteries still require special training and certifications.
For years we used Ni-Cd and Ni-MH for all our portable power. Ni-Cd of good quality have unlimited cycle life and do not suffer high drains; Ni-MH (which are the only positive outcome of researches on cold fusion) have limited cycle life and cannot stand high drain, but they took over because are totally "green" as they doesn't contain the cadmium, a toxic heavy metal, and allowed later the "hybrid" technology or ... (low self-discharge). So they became the battery of choice for moderate drain, non-professional use.
Now, what pointed my intervention is the statement that Ni-MH are most suited for e-cig use. Wrong statement, in all possible shape and forms. It was in year 2008 that built a vape mod by modifying a 3xAA flashlight to test it; I got 30 cycles from Ni-MH and 350 cycles from Ni-Cd AA cells; fully in accordance with know data.
Also, when shorted out, Ni-MH vent hydrogen gas, while Ni-CD vent oxygen. Ni-MH are prohybited use in sealed underwater lights, where only Ni-Cd are allowed.
Ni-Cd didn't win the favours of the e-cig market for three reasons. First they are much bulkier than Li-Ions. Second, green laws have phased out Cadmium from consumer market, limiting its use to professional use where long cyclelife coupled with high drain are a must.
Third reason, lithium minerals are mined in a couple of places on Earth, South America and Far East. China had the technology already developed and free access to the mineral, and they, as inventors of e-cig, set the standard on lithium.
We developed Li-Mn and later,hybrid cathode battery to overcome the 1C current limit of Li-Co (ICR) cells, so they can be used in power tools. Less repeatibility (IMR do not balance well) but also less of a firework attitude. E-cig mod world found the Li-MN and hybrid batteries readily available for use. Some unattentive persons uses ICR in mods, but all of the battage on safety hopefully will increase knowledge to the point ICR will be sold with the marking "Do not use in e-cig". Hopefully. They are designed for computer battery packs. But make no mistake: all built-in mod batteries (the MVPs, the iSticks, virtually all non-replaceable battery box mods) do not use IMR (Li-MN) batteries inside: they use exclusively Li-Poly batteries. Now, Li-Poly (which uses hybrid cathodes) were designed with high surface exposure to provide very high currents, they are the batteries of choice in RC world. The chemicals are spread in very thin plastic films, they are built without a case or a metal container, just a foil bag. Thus they can set on fire, but not explode. The protective circuitry is mandatory but it is included in the mod box. Not having a container, they are very cheap to produce, and doesn't require expensive manufacturing equipment: this is why any e-cig, from cheap ego batteries to the most expensive Solara DNA mod box, contains lithium polymer batteries. Cheap, good, pretty safe (they make a big fire but no explosions). So, per manufacturer decisions, Li-Poly, to this date, are the most suitable batteries in e-cigs. But.
Only for manufacturers. End user can't install Li-Poly in mod boxes (or tubes), because they need to be soldered. To be installed by end user, they should be encased, and this would transform them into a liability. End user can only install IMR batteries originally designed for power drills and high power flashlights. The real deal is off-limits per say of the lawyers.
In reality, the most suitable battery for e-cigs are the LFP type. They could be easily and legally handed by end users, but there are two problems.
The LFP battery is a Li-FePO4 (iron-phosphor-oxygen) battery where the cathode materials are made of multi-layered microspheres, built with semiconductor-like machinery, where the inner part of the sphere contains the energy, and its surface distribute this energy to the external electrodes.
This is the state of the art in lithium batteries, 20 years calendar life and 2000 full cycles. But they are 3.2 Volt instead of 3.7 volt, and a 18650 is ten dollars versus 50 cents of a Li-poly 18650 (used in the 20W iStick). They do not fire up nor explode, accept overcharge and are not damaged by overdischarge. They are on sale for specialised uses and, having bought a 12V 10Ah to replace a lead acid battery, I can only confirm that they would be a vaper dream come true if used in a mod. But, again, chinese only manufacture them on licence, the LPF technology is very hard to crack and copy. They are the most suitable batteries for a e-cig mod.
Regards to all
 
I was having a great deal of trouble finding the right batteries for my Sub Ohming needs. Thank you so much for this article I have shared it with some of my so called "knowlegable" suppliers who have been had by unscrupulous wholesalers in China just as I have been had. There is so much cloned and rebranded rubnish getting around you never know what the ......... you are going to get in the mail.
 
I have been looking for a tutorial of batteries, their composition, and a comparitive of batteries in a constructive dialogue. You have done an extremely good job and i am sure our vaping community thanks you for all your effort. I have learned something here.

33 yr cigarette smoker/7+ yr vapor.....Vape on my friends and vape safely
 
This post is great! I have a question, I just bought a Wismec Reuleaux RX200. It's a triple 18650 mod. Are the Samsung 25r's (green wraps), good enough to run in that mod? It seems that 20A is actually overkill because each battery is only going to be asked for only around 10A or less, for my useage. Which leads to my next question, would it be okay to use higher mAh batteries that have, say, 15A CDR? I ordered 6 new 25r's to use as 2 sets of 3, in the RX200, but was wondering if in the future I could use some of those higher mAh batteries with the lower CDR safely in the RX200 if I'm not planning on going above 80-90 watts because the batteries are in a series?
 

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