Next we Very Carefully install the Chimney tube. Avoid shifting the wick. A tiny bit of twist will not hurt, but you do not want to be poking around trying to reposition things.
Take one last look and tighten the tuck if needed then install the tube.
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Next we add the Nest
Take your second piece of Cotton strip (Removing a tiny layer may be helpful) and roll in palms like the first.
Shape this rolled piece around the inside of the chimney tube - like a ring and clip off excess length.
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Next - Saturate cotton ring and wick well.(8-10 drops should do)
Gently press the saturated cotton ring down against the upper deck Post and Coiled wick.
Work to clear most of Chimney cap threading area.
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A little more fun - add 3-4 more drops - Install Chimney cap - Verify Final Resistance(ohms)
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Attach to your preferred Mod/APV and Test(dripper style) 2-3 hits available.
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If everything went according to plan it is time to assemble your Tank/Top cap/drip tip and Fill.
1) Never assume number of days a wick should last - learn instead, the number of tank fills. This is more consistent.
2) Always leave a bubble of Air when filling - this establishes negative pressure.
3) If fill flooding occurs - Remove drip tip, place napkin/tissue over cap opening, hole upside down, blow through side air hole to clear.
4) When wick needs replacing - Rinse wick under faucet and while twisting one end lightly pull from coil. Coil should out last many wicks. Dry Burn coil then re-wick.
......Unroll a cotton Ball and cut a length to the Base Diameter.
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Cut this piece along the length into 3 strips. Only 2 will be used.(I set the larger<oops> cut aside)
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Roll one piece in your palms to shape the wick. Working carefully, twist the cotton shaping one end into a point. Dampen the point to aid in threading into the coil.
Feed Point through coil and with a continuous twisting motion gently pull wick to center.
* If cotton binds(to thick) gently back out a bit and remove a small strip - continue.*
Snip wick ends to equal Base diameter.
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Now the fun begins. The wick must sit properly to allow Good wicking without flooding or blocking the channels and delivering dry hits.
Wet each end of the wick with a few drips of e-liquid and take a Tooth pick, tiny screwdriver, paper clip or whatever is small and handy to Tuck the ends to the back edge of the channel.
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To be continued..................
Posting this in hopes of helping those new to Kayfun style Atomizers and Cotton wicking. For those already experienced this may be boring or different from your preferred builds.
This is NOT a coil building tutorial. Each situation, personal preference, setup will dictate your preferred coil build Size, wire gauge, resistance.
The Kayfun line, Russian Atomizers and Many similar clones have much to offer the Vaping enthusiast. These devices offer much in the way of build flexibility and come in several configurations. Some have fill valves while others are bottom fill. Some offer adjustable air control.
For this build, I will be using one of the least expensive Kayfun Lite Clones on the market ($14) and a Nano kit for reduced size.
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This unit though not a 1:1 clone offers a lot of performance in an inexpensive package.
Onward we go. First things first - ALWAYS strip and clean any rebuildable device on receipt.
Ready for Ultrasonic Bath
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15 Minutes later - YUK!!!
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I have found cleaning is a MUST even if it looks ready to build.
A few good rinses, pat everything dry and we are ready to build.
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I have found the Kayfun style Atomizers work well over a wide range of resitances and with many different gauge wires and coil layouts. This build will cover one which has consistently worked well for my equipment. Vape quality has been excellent. Vapor impressive. Wick longevity extreme.(40+Ml)
For the coil, I use a basic Nano style depending on use from 1.2-1.8ohm and mount it in line with the channels.
Consistency of coil build and wick volume are key in getting the most out of you Kayfun style device.
I always build using a 14ga. syringe needle = 2mm or 1/16 inch drill bit.
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To Be continued............
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