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  1. [​IMG]

    the protank is on top
    it is on the miniprotank base
    which is on a base that came from an eGo-C

    the base from the eGo-C is stuffed with tissue to intercept leaks

    and the base from the eGo-C base is on a 510-to-eGo adapter; the adapters I got have the airhole in it in the middle so that's stuffed with tissue too; last time I opened it up it was full of eliquid;

    and that is all on my 510-only zmax.


    And the brown thing on top is the casing from a flavour cartridge from one of the early cigalike systems that I bought because the chrome itches my lips
  2. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-e-smoking-discussion/519291-one-stop-noob-shop.html
  3. Got my Zmax today.
    Jagdesh of ecigtt came to town today, we met at a mall, and now I have a Zmax:
  4. [​IMG]

    - top can and mouthpiece/driptip are metal painted black; the inside of the cap where the hot coil is, is also black PAINT.
    - bottom insulation ring separating the positive and negative electrical contacts..... dicey; I wonder if I lost a piece; I might wrap on plummer's tape on it; it also leaks.
    - screws on the deck are a major pain; flathead/slothead screws

    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/513794-just-got-my-i-atty-genesis-fasttech.html#post11897564
  5. what a beastly looking thing:
    [​IMG]
  6. [​IMG]based on this chart optimum watts is 5 watts for the common stock commercial single coils which are typically 30 or 32 gauge kanthal;

    dual coils need more like 8 watts.
    thicker gauge wire needs more power.

    The real figure that's important is watts per square milimeter, but that's harder to quantify in a rule of thumb way so far.
  7. [​IMG]
  8. Ocelot's blog entry about tank crackers: look at those pics!!

    http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/the-ocelot/3786-eeekkk-its-melting.html
  9. jersey_emt
    [​IMG]
    Full Member ECF Veteran [​IMG] Join DateAug 2009LocationNew JerseyPosts136

    [h=2][​IMG] Battery numbers (18650, 18350, 18490, etc.) -- what they mean[/h]
    If anyone is curious what the different battery "numbers" (18650, 18350, etc.) mean, it's quite simple.

    The first two digits are the diameter of the battery in millimeters.

    The last three digits are the length of the battery in tenths of millimeters.

    So an 18650 battery is 18 mm wide and 65.0 mm long.

    18350's are 18 mm wide and 35.0 mm long.

    18490's are 18 mm wide and 49.0 mm long.

    Note that these are approximate dimensions. For example, an 18650 battery may be a bit longer than 65 mm, especially if it has a protection circuit.

    Also, these numbers designate size only. Capacity (mAh) and maximum rated output (amps) depend entirely on design. Always check the manufacturer's specifications and be sure that you are not trying to pull more current from your batteries than what the manufacturer designed it for. ​
  10. [​IMG]Picture of eGo battery to show the outer 'eGo' threads, and the inner '510' threads.
  11. [​IMG]
  12. [video=youtube;DRtqakeg3z4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRtqakeg3z4[/video]
  13. Some notes about the sophia:

    First : it can be considered an RDA out of the box.

  14. 1: Sophia
    [​IMG]
    2: V2 Diver

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