Oh, I found out the tracking banner was bigger than allowed by the forum rules. So I'll park this one here till I find another of appropriate pixel size.
My Videos -
Most uploaded off iPhone 3 , no words just hands on... The last one has commentary.
My YouTube channel -
Example of running Wick dry at 35-40ww, high voltage stacked 18350 VW mod.
identifying a loose wick-
Troubleshooting - low density.
More links on safety of rayon, .
Some concern of dioxin has been raise based on tampons. The fda has cleared this, and the dioxin scare would apply to both rayon and cotton. But that type of processing of cotton and rayon has ceased many many years ago. Levels of dioxin in rayon are at or below minimum levels of .01- 1 part per Trillion.
More on scentific, and chemical process to create rayon
Response to community on publicity.
Response to vaper place rayon segment
This is a continuation of the ground breaking Rayon Wick - better flow, flavor, saturation, and nic hit!! thread.
That thread is ground zero of the rayon movement, where it all started. It was a place of joy and excitement as Rayon exploded onto the scene spreading like wild fire.
The original thread located - here - is full of information, pictures, tips, how to's, and 100s of raving reviews... There was also a lot of good times.. I couldn't begin to compile the vast amount of great posts that everyone should see... But the thread is archived so it will be viewable for many years to come.
Please search the original thread for ideas and useful information; as about everything has been covered to some extent.
The goal is to allow the opportunity for each person to try rayon, so they can decide for themselves if its the game changer we all know it is.
So this is where your wondering: what is rayon going to do for me?
- wicks better
- lasts 10 times longer
- increased coil saturation
- has a pure neutral taste
- its good till the last drop
- its sturdy, holds its shape, and stays put.
- it releases juice freely to the coil
- increases nicotine hit
- its extremely efficient (thin the tails)
- the vapor produced is a more vaporized mist that provides higher absorption of nicotine and flavoring components. (Its estimated that a 20-30% increase occurs)
- its super high efficiency provides Ultra Clean vaporization for minimal if any gunking after 100s of mls (juice dependant)
- highly resistant to burning when it has juice within reach
- Rayon can speak to you, by showing any problems
- rayon wick can last a long, long time
- your coils can remain clean up to 10 times longer.
- you can run the entire wick completely dry with rayon - before you even get a dry hit (when wicked correctly)
- low maintenance
- more freedom to just : vape on
- makes vaping more enjoyable by an elimination of many common problems
- With regular mods we have gone 100, 200, and nearly 300ml of juice on rayon with no maintenance!
Is it safe?
- safer than cotton
- evidence shows vaping is safer with rayon
The next thing I will address is the safety question, as ridiculous as it is.. Since some tried to scare the community from this amazing material because they don't understand it; or chemistry.
Rayon Wick is pure cellulose, more pure than can be found in nature. Cellulose is the building block of plants throughout the world. You eat cellulose daily. Rayon has been around for 150 years. It has been highly studied.
No one has been able to produce any scientific evidence or proof that there is anything, whatsoever, of concern in Rayon fiber.
Its used by surgens, labs for testing biological samples because its purity doesn't contaminate the samples like cotton. Cellulose made by an identical viscose method is also used in Food products like sausage casings.
Rayon from many different manufactures has been tested by oeko-tex, world leading textile safety tester, and it has been certified free from any harmful contaminates and even those that could be potentially harmful. The FTC defines rayon as pure cellulose.
Rayon Wick is safer than water. Water has vast magnitudes of more chemicals and contaminates in it than a piece of rayon wick.
Rayon is basically the same as cigarette paper when it burns.. My wicking is unburnt after 300ml at high power so its not even a concern of burning.
Cotton is not a pure cellulose its also the most chemically treated crop in the world. It contains protien components that make it taste bad and reduce wicking. However you can make rayon from cotton plants... and if you did; all the pesticides and protiens would be chemically seperated and the final product would be pure cellulose.
Why is it safer to vaper with than cotton?
The proof is in the gunk. When juice overheats it gunks. Overheating juice has byproducts that could be unhealthy.
Rayon and the way it works produces very little if any gunk. A fraction of that wich builds up with cotton.
That means your coil stays saturated enough through out the vape that it doesn't overheat to the point of burning the juice.
It is a wick that controls coil temperature in normal use by freely juicing the coil. Cotton absorbs and holds back juice from the coil rayon delivers freely at breakneck speed.
Rayon Wick is a cellulose extracted by scientific method from plant materia,l trees mostly, and regenerated into pure fibers. Many things in life are chemically extracted. The components used to extract and reassemble the pure cellulose are not in the final fiber. The beauty of chemistry is knowing exactly how things are going to happen. Its no question, its scientific fact. As much as the earth is round.
I have reviewed possibly hundreds of scientific documents and books, and I have found no cause for concern. Please post your questions or comments here or search the original thread, there are many links to scientific literature and chemistry books on the subject.
Using Rayon Wick
- Use more in the coil than you even think is possible to be able to work.
- Use less in The tails than you even think is possible to be able to work.
Rayon wick works much different than cotton. In many ways its opposite. Anything you know about wicking with cotton should be pushed aside. This is like learning a completely new wick, or like when you learned cotton the first time.. Some are lucky and get the density right away, many others will not! Its seems the less experience or luck you have had with cotton the faster you pick it up..
So you've been vaping for years and consider yourself an expert... You have to be able to be humble and accept the fact that you don't know it all.. as your starting over again, but the benefits are much greater this time.
So how dense does it need to be?
- fairly snug to where you can hardly pull it through anymore without finagling. The coil should be pulling its so snug.
- there is a distinct squeak type vibration that can be felt and heard while pulling the fiber through the coil when its getting tight enough. I usually shift it side to side to hear the squeak
- it will look huge at first, but after it settles it should have shoulders just at or above the OD of the coil.
- being able to run the rayon wick dry without tc is a sign your density is good.
You need a much tighter density than cotton. More than you think is even possible. Cotton expands but rayon fiber reduces. The reason is because its not a sponge like cotton its an extremely efficient transporter of juice. The juice clings to the outside of the rayon fibers and flows like water through a pipe. Its very fluffy to start and as its wetted down and used the fibers start to align and all the air pockets are expelled. After about 4ml any reducing should be done. Any dry hit from the start through the first day of use indicates a loose wick. You need to use more rayon wick.
In starting to use rayon wicking it should take less than 6 attempts to get it right if you follow a trial and error method. During this time it is recommended to vape at the lower end of power for you. Because you may have the wick become loose in the coil and this will cause the coil to start to dry burn and produce a nasty dry hit from the coil. This taste is not the rayon it is the dry burning coil. Rayon tastes like cigarette paper when it burns.
At anytime if you have a problem ALWAYS inspect the wick.
- check for full contact at the top edge of the coil
- push on Wick to see if it exposes a gap at the edge of the coil
- check coloring of both sides of Wick
- one dark tail shows an imbalance in the wick. Even the system by trimming.
- don't blame Rayon for user error
On to the Tails -
- thin the Tails
- the tail begins where the wick bends.
- A full density wick should only extend to the edge of the deck or chamber wall. The rest is tail and should be clipped down. Some have said it looks similar to a mullet.
- Balance - you need the wick on both sides to be as even as reasonably possible.... Or one side will draw liquid to it and.. out of the coil after firing causing discoloration on one side.
Another complex thing to understand is how this stuff seems to work. Its actions are nothing like cotton. In most attys where you would have a tail going down or to the side you need to thin the Tails substantially from 50 to 90+% of the thicknes - cut right before the bend..
This goes against everything you know.. But do it!
In most cases when the wick is long enough, it won't work right if you don't !!
The part with the most rayon fiber will draw the most liquid. Tails are also free to expand and open up sucking more juice to them. Because there's more space between the fibers. It will actually reduce the wick speed substantially if you don't thin. The Tails will swell like a billow and draw juice to them and away from the coil.
Full tails will cause draw back from the coil after the hit. Sucking already heated juice back and then forth in an ebb and flow movement. This will refire the juice again causing caramelization and more gunking than a proper Rayon Wick.
Think of the rayon in the coil and main section as the heart of the system. Or like the trunk of a tree. Both of these things have a large central core. But the viens and roots that feed the core of the system are very much smaller than the heart itself.... The tree example fits best, your full wick in the coil is the trunk and the Tails are the roots. Literally just a couple of these roots can supply ample juice to the coil, many of us use paper thin Tails on rda decks.
Rayon has an innate ability it seems to keep its fibers evenly wet and protect itself from burning. But you don't want the Rayon wicking to keep an even saturation through to the Tails. You want to force it to heep the coil area the most saturated. This is done by trimming the tail density down considerably.
Heres a recent build in a FEV v3 , in dripper mode or tank mode. no problem at 40w dripping. The deck will go dry before the coil does.
This is a continuation of the original rayon thread -here- .
I/we brought rayon wick from the unknown darkness to the light.. It was a long road of uneducated attacks and blatant disregard.
Now the scene is much different. Our hard work has gained rayon acceptance and love world wide. Thousands upon thousands of people around the world are using rayon and love it!
I have been a strong proponent of stacked batteries for regulated mods capable of it. Like zmax and vamo. I have a sigelie zmax v3 and it is capable of handling stacked batteries. I only recommend stacking safe chemistry imr batteries! There are some major benefits below; but first safety.
Some of the strict practices and over caution was very true just less than a few years ago. But now with the wide spread use of safe chemistry imr batteries; I think some of this needs to be revisited.
Aren't laptop batteries stacked 18650's, I recall the were just solder tabbed end to end. Stacked Icr I believe.- And the answer used to be well they don't take high drain loads on the laptop... Well now we have high drain safe chemistry imr batteries to play with.
Stacking imrs is safer than using a single icr or protected battery. I also think stacked imr in a mod designed for it is also safer than a unprotected mech mod with a single imr, no short protection or cut off .
You will be fine if you follow some basic simple safety practices.
a. Yes you should be able to test them with a meter.
b. The batteries should be a new matched set of safe chemistry batteries; marked and cover with clear tape if you use a marker.
c. Rotating is good. The top battery will run down .02 v more than the bottom. This should be checked regularly (like once a week) to confirm they are discharging correctly. I don't obsess on rotating it happens enough naturally for me.
d. You should test the batteries off the charger at this time also to ensure they are both charging to the same voltage.
e. Since one is .02 lower than the other realize that one will take a little bit longer to charge than the other. Most dual bay chargers are independent bays.
g. Only use stacked imr batteries in a regulated mod capable of handling it. Not a mech!
There are some amazing benifits to using stacked batteries in a regulated mod in my experience. Especially above 2.3 amps load or ohms below 2.3.
1- more power; and being able to reach the stated 4 or 5 amp limit on the device through out the charge. Late model chips are limited with one battery.
2- longer battery life! I only change batteries once a day now. - *I run one set of efest 18350 IMR - against 3 efest 18650 imr. I get triple the life and double the power on my zmax v3
a.The buck converters are so much more efficient at stepping down voltage as opposed to the boost converter trying to boost the voltage . = longer battery run time
b. You have 2 volts of run time! Yes 2 volts run time not one. 8.4-6.4 instead of 4.2-3.2 ... = double the run time
c. The mod is not stressing itself & the battery to push 6v from 3.7v for instance. You would have 7.2v off the stacked batteries. Easy to push 6 from 7.2. = longer run time and less stress on gear and batteries.
d. The amp load appears to be split between the two batteries. It's the only way I can explain getting 3 times the life from the stacked configuration. There seems to be much less strain on the battery in the zmax v3. voltage drop isn't such that hey have to be changed before cut off.
e. With single batteries running high wattage or low ohms you can notice the voltage drop on a regulated mod as the battery runs down. @15w I would have to change around 3.7 -3.6 because it wasn't putting out near 15w anymore. With stacked batteries voltage drop isn't noticeable till near the end of the charge... = you can leave batteries in longer
g. With a single efest red 18650 2000mah battery in the zmax I get ~2.6 amp limit and cap out on that. I would use at least 3 in a day due to voltage drop pushing it at 15w. With the stacked batteries I can run 4 amps out of the zmax and I do have it maxed out at 1.3 ohms and 6v pushing over 20w. (24w fully charged)
*I wouldn't even attempt this with a single battery it would be terribly weak. But I run the one set of stacked batteries for 24 hours with this And get 60% more power/ watts out of it.
Necrosis, glad that method is working for you... It's the one I always do.. And maybe you are onto something that others having troubles are missing. I set my wicks dry too and organize only while first soaking cause when they are wet their stuck together good.
Anyway I believe these show what your talking about.
Here's the posts with my wick that I put 80-90ml though and it has no gunking would have went 120ml.
Here is the video of me installing that wick that would make 120ml.
Originally posted here with pictures of the build post 2194
Here's the wick & coil at 80ml with doing nothing but vaping.
Hop this helps
Heres my video [/QUOTE]
I'm an all tobacco flavor vaper for a year 1/2. Hangsen tobaccos are my favorite. They are top quality. Each is a complete standalone flavor and also simple to make. I started with FLavor art but they're not as good as the hangsens are.. unless you spend countless hours trying to find the right blends. Still you can't really match the hangsen flavors IMO. My favorite hangsen concentrates are Arabic 3%, highway 5%, USA mix 5%, Churchill 3-5%, ry3 5%, desert ship 5%, ry2, hotel. If you like an ashy cig taste USA red @3-5% will do it.
They are more expensive but worth it.
Rts is the best vendor. Comes in glass vials so you need a syringe. Rts is very nicely packaged and shipped. Ecx is dripper bottled but many of them have leaked in shipment.
Cool man you'll be happy with it, and amazed how easy it is with hangsens. I would start at 3 or 6 % and give them a week before you decide to adjust percentage up or down. I find one or the other will work out and can be fine tuned from there. Visit http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/diy-e-liquid/440440-hangsen-thread-56.html#post12594691 to learn more and ask questions.
Talk about Mother load of tobacco options- See further flavor descriptions here Premium Tobacco for Sale,Buy Tobacco Online - Hangsen Holding Co.,Ltd .
See master list name decoder here - http://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/SPEC/822/K1055962822.pdf
You'll want a 1 ml syringe for rts concentrates. Also to add - I like wizard labs Nic, except you'll need at least a 10-20ml syringe to deal with that due to the packaging.
I think your all set see you in the hangsen thread.
I'd like to hear about that Cuba if your vaping it.. Stop over to the hs thread.
A Post I made about their process,
please read my comments below which are posts on the subject
Copied from here - http://www.vaportalk.com/forum/topic/16958-single-18650-vs-stacked-18350-batteries/
While the quoted post says they tried an aw 3800 mah. I ran the same test with a red efest imr 2000mah. With similar results.
This complete discussion is here at post 1215
This complete discussion is here, starting post 9008.
Separate names with a comma.