So, here's our list as it stands today (January the 1st, 2018). Should any of you find more tanks that indeed take the CLR coils, please do let me know?
Compatible tanks for CLR coils
Dvarw E tank (made in Hungary)
G3 Styled Tank Clearomizer: 19mm 1.8ml
Genoa by Caravela
Joyetech eGo ONE Clearomizer: 19mm 1.8ml
Joyetech eGo ONE Clearomizer: 19mm 2.5ml
Joyetech eGo ONE Mega Clearomizer: 22mm 4ml (leaks sometimes through air hole)
Joyetech TRON-S Clearomizer: 22mm 4ml (leaks sometimes through air hole)
Joyetech TRON-T Clearomizer: 22mm 4ml (leaks sometimes through air hole)
Joyetech eGo ONE Mega V2 Atomizer: 22mm 4ml (fantastic tank that never leaks)
Joyetech One AIO *TFTA*
Kangside Vamo One Clearomizer: 19mm 2ml
Majesty eGo Supreme Sub Ohm Tank: 19mm 2.5ml
Mega Tank Styled Sub Ohm Tank Clearomizer
NME DAMAS Sub Ohm Tank: 22mm 4ml
NoCode Lazy by Noname Mods
Odyssey CLL Tank: 22mm 4ml
Ola X Fire Sub Ohm Tank Clearomizer: 19mm 1.8ml
Pico RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer: 22mm 3.5ml (requires clr adapter) (great tank with amazing flavour)
Pico-S RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer: 22mm 3.5ml (requires clr adapter) (great tank with amazing flavour)
Riven Tank BCC Bottom Coil Clearomizer: 19mm 2.5ml
Thumb Styled Sub Ohm Tank: 22mm 2ml
Tornado II Sub Mega VT Tank: 22mm 4ml (copy of eGo ONe Clearomizer)
Tornado II Sub Tank: 19mm 2.5ml (copy of eGo ONe Clearomizer)
Tornado II Slim Tank: 16mm 1.8ml
Tempest Tank: 14mm 1.3ml
VaporFi Rebel 3 Tank: 30ml 5.8ml (basically an exact copy of the Venti tank)
Wismec Venti Tank: 30mm 5.8ml (excellent capacity)
Wismec Amor tank: 22mm 2.5ml
The Kamry K1000 Plus tank ("works with the K1000 Plus mod, but pos pin is wonky") And, the fix: https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/ego-one-tank-series-%E2%80%93-clr-coil.697218/page-423#post-20151581 (ShawnHoefer)
Don't forget the stealthy little 16mm sibling, the eGo ONE Mini! (DetroitDoug)
RTA/RDA parts compatibility list for Kayfun, Cthulhu, Silverplay, GT-T 2, Goblin etc.: FastTech Forums
Thanks to @ToolmanTexas!
Tootle Puffers, Part Three! (The Sequel of the Redux)
From the one and only VapingTurtle: Little itty bitty mods under $100.
(Thank you so much, Rab D, for the following information. This info has been authorized by BBV as accurate and perfectly fine to share on ECF!)
Alas, new problem: the seal on my 2/3 month old Boro is loose. It seems to have stretched, and is difficult to get in place and stay where it should. Has anybody else encountered this / found a fix?
Alas, I'm not musical like spacelord, so no guitar pick - made do with the pink plastic filling needle which came with the BB. I contacted BBV, and received reply below with permission to post it here on ECF - may interest other Boro users, sooner or later!
"Hi there! Sounds like a dry gasket issue. I'm including some gasket changing instructions (you won't need a new gasket but follow all the other steps)
1) Disassemble the tank and take the old gasket out, rinse out the tank (clean it well), make sure the track where the gasket sits is nice and clean
2) take the new gasket and with a microfiber cloth and a little denatured alcohol wipe the gasket and make sure it’s very, very clean (no hair or little debris fragments)
3) lay the gasket into the track and use a toothpick to push it into the track (don’t poke it in, be very careful), specifically around the five nubs on the gasket.
4) Now that the gasket is in place, make sure it’s perfectly flat and it’s not bulged up anywhere. Then take the glass piece and make sure that as well is very clean. Then take some e-juice and put it over the entire gasket, spread it around to make sure the gasket is covered. That will allow the glass to easily slide into place.
5) When you slide the glass into place make sure the tab on the bottom of the glass face is on the right side. Very slowly start pushing the glass into the groove if the tank. Don’t force it. Once it’s all the way up pull it down again about 1/4 of the way and push it back up - do that a couple of times to make sure the gasket is seeded well.
6) Visually check that there are no weird air pockets or spots where the gasket isn’t touching the glass.
The key is cleanliness and putting e-juice on the gasket!!"
Here is some very useful and timely battery info, provided by one THE most outstanding ECF'ers, alden.
SONY VTC5 batteries have been somewhat the gold standard for vapers but they're hard to find, expensive when you find them and have a high likelihood of being counterfeited.
I highly recommend Samsung's 25R batteries. LG's HE2 or HE4 batteries are also good choices.
Very trusted supplier at great prices. $6 for a single 25R. They also have SONY's VTC4 & 5
Samsung 25R 18650 2500mAh High Current Discharge Battery flat top
LG 18650HE2 2500mAh high current hybrid 18650 IMR battery HE2 Flat Top
LG He4 18650 high drain IMR Li-ion battery 3.7V Orbtronic
SONY VTC4 @ 2 for $15 & VTC5 @ $16 ea.
Sony VTC4 18650 30A high drain battery 2100mAh
Sony VTC5 2600mAh 30A 18650 High Drain rechargeable battery 3.7V
Here's a little graphic found in the TFA DIY e-liquid thread... Good luck, pokemom!
Thanks to andyman's super sleuthing, we now have a complete list of revisions to the B Box.
Good work, Andy!
One of our own on the Eleaf Air Tank thread, was kind enuf to make this video on how to recoil and rewick the stock coils.
Thank you, Cheechako!
The Billet Box FAQ:
By Vapian, Version 1.3, May 2014
Graciously reviewed/edited by Drunk_J & Katdarling
Routine maintenance of the Billet Box is recommended as follows:
Every week or two, or any time the sliding door requires more forced to open or begins to sound or feel as if it is grinding:
- Remove the door.
- Use a paper towel, toothpick and/or cotton swab to clean the side rails on the door, the slots that the door slides into, and the locking ball track on the door. Remove any residue from liquids, oxidation or normal wear.
- Attempt to push and/or spin the door locking ball, also removing any residue.
- Use a clean bit of paper towel and a toothpick, or a cotton swab, to apply a few drops of either olive oil (recommended by Billet Box Vapor) or very light coat of teflon fishing reel grease (recommended by some users) to the door rails and slots, the ball track in the door, and the door locking ball.
- Use another clean bit of material to remove any excess lubricant.
The threaded hole for the Brass Ring can be cleaned by inserting a small portion of rolled-up paper towel, pushing it against the threads and running this around the threads.
Regular cleaning should keep electrical connections working properly. However, non-toxic anti-oxidants such as DeOxIt can be applied to electrical connections such as the threaded hole for the Brass Ring and the positive atomizer connection inside the tank area. This can help ensure positive connections and prevent reduced performance due increased resistance caused by oxidation.
Q. Does the Billet Box come with any spare parts?
Your Billet Box should come with a baggie containing spare O-rings for the tank and spare silicon gaskets for the cartomizer positive pin at the bottom of the tank compartment.
Q. Does Billet Box have a rebuildable atomizer tank?
A. A rebuildable atomizer tank design is being considered but is not yet in production (as of May 2014).
Though not all are Billet-Box specific, other options as mentioned under ATOMIZERS/CARTOMIZERS above are available.
Q. The carbon-fiber panels are cool, but are there other options (wood, leather, rubberized, etc.)?
A. As of May 2014, carbon-fiber panels are the only production option. Some one-off Billet Boxes have been made with alternate materials, but none have been made available for sale (as of May 2014).
It is highly likely that other materials will be more readily available in the future.
Q. When should I replace the tank O-rings or silicon gasket for the cartomizer positive pin?
A. The O-rings or gasket should last quite a while under normal use, but should be replaced whenever they are obviously nicked or damaged.
Even if damage is not obvious, replacement may be indicated if:
O-rings: Liquid drips or drains from top or bottom of the tank, or the cartomizer slides in or out too easily.
Silicon gasket: Excessive liquid "condensation" is consistently found behind, under or on top of the tank.
Q. What is the size of the black o-rings that fit into the tank?
A. (As stated in Part 1 of this Blog) The tank o-ring = 1.5mm thickness x 9mm ID (12mm OD).
(The red silicone ring is something made in the Billet Box Vapor shop. It's a .062" x .3", ".032" thick" flat silicon washer.)
Q. How do I replace the silicon gasket at the cartomizer positive pin connection?
A. The gasket is seated in a channel milled around the positive pin.
Use a toothpick to pry under the outer edge until the gasket begins to pop out, then circle around if necessary to completely remove it.
Replace the gasket by placing it over the positive pin and into the channel.
Use your finger or a toothpick to gently but fully seat the gasket into the channel until it is flush with the bottom of the tank compartment.
Q. Katdarling said there would be cake!
A. Don't listen to her.
The cake is a lie.
(But there might be pie.)
The Billet Box FAQ:
By Vapian, Version 1.3, May 2014
Graciously reviewed/edited by Drunk_J & Katdarling
DRIP TIP/BRASS RING QUESTIONS
Q. Can I use my own drip tips on the Billet Box?
Most standard 510 drip tips should fit inside the brass ring.
If the tip is slightly too small, it can be made to fit with larger replacement O-ring or by removing the O-ring, wrapping a bit of unflavored dental floss around the O-ring slot, and replacing the o-ring.
If the tip is slightly too large, it might be made to fit by sanding down the diameter. Do this at your own risk.
Q. What should I use to back out or tighten the brass ring?
A. A standard U.S. quarter or nickel coin is ideal. These will fit right into the slots on the brass ring and provide more than enough leverage.
Q. What if I don't have the required coinage?
A. Some folks have found that their drip tip fits in tightly enough to loosen or tighten the brass ring with no coin required.
It is possible to use the door of the Billet Box itself, but this is NOT RECOMMENDED as it could deform the door making it EXTREMELY difficult to install or remove later.
Q. How much should I tighten the brass ring?
A. The brass ring should be tightened down just enough to make contact with the cartomizer body.
Too loose, and the cartomizer will not fire.
Too tight, and the cartomizer might damage the silicon gasket around the cartomizer positive pin.
It is worth noting that there have been two production Brass Rings.
The first version simply "sat" on top of the cartomizer establishing the ground path. Later testing indicated in some cases this may have led to liquid condensation inside the Billet Box tank compartment.
The second version has a small extension that fits inside the cartomizer with a O-ring to provide a seal. This greatly reduces incidents of condensation in the tank compartment.
Q. What kind of batteries does The Billet Box use?
A. The Billet Box is designed to use 3.7 volt, AW ICR 123 / 16340 (Black w/silver label), protected, button-top batteries.
The use of unprotected batteries of any kind is NOT recommended.
Q. How long do those batteries last in the Billet Box?
A. Short answer: until they die.
Long answer: Most users report anywhere from 1/2 to a full day of vaping with a freshly charged pair of batteries and a 3.0 ohm cartomizer. Depending on your atomizer or cartomizer resistance and how you vape, YMMV.
Q. How do the batteries die - do they peter out, cut off, or...?
A. The Black AW ICR 123's tend to keep their output and performance constant almost to the very end with only the last two or three vapes being weak.
Q. Can I use other brands or types of battery?
A. The Billet Box battery compartment is very specifically designed for the physical size of the AW ICR 123 / 16340 batteries and has very tight tolerances.
But, any 16340 or 123-type battery that is button top, no longer than 34.2 mm or larger than 16.6 mm in diameter should fit.
If you MUST buy a different brand/model of battery, CHECK IT AGAINST THESE DIMENSIONS.
Beyond the size, performance may or may not be as good as the recommended battery type.
Remember also that Billet Box Vapor recommends the use of protected batteries.
Q. Can I use <brand/model> batteries?
A. See above.
There are many CR123 / 16340 batteries on the market that may or may not fit, and may or may not work well.
Anything other than what is recommended in this FAQ or on the Billet Box web site, is up to the user.
Bottom line: The recommended AW ICR 123 batteries are ALWAYS a safe bet.
Anything else is beyond the scope of this particular FAQ.
Q. Where can I get the recommended batteries?
A. Recommending vendors is beyond the scope of this FAQ.
An internet search for "black AW ICR 123" should find a number of dealers.
Online forums are also a good place for up-to-date dealer recommendations.
Q. The batteries fit in there awfully tightly. How do I get them out?
A. The recommended method of removing the batteries from the Billet Box is to remove the back plate and smack the battery compartment over the open palm of your hand.
Yes. Smack it on your hand.
Done properly, at least one battery should drop out allowing easy removal of the remaining battery.
Prying them out with a tool is not recommended as it could damage the battery.
Also, recommend removing any rings from the hand you are slapping into, as rings can make dents in the Billet Box chassis.
Some users recommend wrapping a bit of tape around the batteries to create a handle to pull them out. Thin tape is recommended due to the tight clearances inside the Billet Box.
Q. Can I charge my batteries inside the Billet Box?
A. No. Batteries must be charged in a dedicated battery charger.
Q. What battery charger should I use?
A. Any charger capable of charging 3.7 volt CR123 / 16340-sized batteries should work.
Recent widely used brands include Intellicharger i2/i4, EFest LUC and XTAR chargers.
Q. What is the voltage range of the Billet Box?
A. The Billet Box has an adjustable voltage range of 4.0 volts to 5.5 volts.
Q. What is the amp limit of the Billet Box?
A. 3 amps.
Q. What kind of power protection does the Billet Box provide?
A. The Billet Box is protected against over-voltage up to 12 volts, current over 3 amps and reversed polarity. If this internal protection is tripped the user is protected against catastrophic failure, but the Billet Box may have to be returned to Billet Box Vapor for repair.
Also, in the event of a major battery failure the body of the Billet Box is designed to vent gas through the air intake holes(on the side) and the seams of the back plate.
Q. With the tank on the inside, are the power components of the Billet Box protected against liquids?
A. Yes, to some degree.
The compartment containing the power regulator is sealed with a gasket material.
However, it is still possible for liquid to get in via the voltage selection dial, in the event of a large spill or leak.
Q. Does the Billet Box have variable wattage (VW)?
A. No. You cannot set a specific wattage for the Billet Box.
Q. My Billet Box won't fire! What do I do?
A. Common causes of Billet Box misfires include:
- One or both batteries are not fully charged.
- One or both batteries are not fully or correctly installed.
- One or both batteries may have protection circuitry that is not be compatible with the Billet Box.
- Cartomizer is faulty.
- Rebuildable atomizer coil has opened or shorted.
- Atomizer or cartomizer center pin is not contacting the atomizer pin in the tank compartment.
- Center pin in tank compartment is dirty or oxidized and needs to be cleaned or scraped.
- Brass Ring is not fully seated on top of or in the cartomizer or atomizer.
- Brass Ring may be dirty or oxidized and requires cleaning.
- Atomizer or cartomizer is not long enough to properly mate with the Brass Ring.
Separate names with a comma.