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  1. Good index for finding your comfort zone sub-Ω is @danwldr's contribution on thevapersden…

    Sub-ohm Vaping Chart.jpg

    Sub Ohm Vaping Chart

    This will give you an indication what a straight mech will deliver at 4.2 (max) with your wind.

    To make some better use of this once you know is to have the power median if you're vapin' a box. For that has an excellent round up of some of the most popular/available devices in their modrange web app…

    Mod range | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

    There you'll find the APV's spec capabilities and sweet spot to better help you fix your res target.

    Good luck all.

  2. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Rudy, howyabeen? Real good question.

    Behind the scenes of promoting tension as a tool for beginners my favorite wind for flavor elsewhere has been twisted pair. I vape tanks up to 2.2Ω and drippers down to .22Ω but like you I'm definitely a vapor density chaser. Not happy if I can't have both flavor and plumes. Generally that's usually the compromise single strand moderately low res dual. The middle ground between fat wire density of twisted and fast-firing thin wire tight contact mass of parallels. Problem with all multi-wire is stability. It's extremely hard to get adhesion by any means, torching or tension, with twisted. Miss it and you go hotter (diffuse rather than dense). And almost impossible to hold it together if you do pull it off with parallels. So frustrating with the latter, getting so close and losing it with the first rewick and lead separation, that I gave them up. And unfortunately with twisted to get a reasonable warm up time you have to stay with thin wire, usually above 28 or you give up too much resistance for coverage area. Again more like clouds than density. And my vaping style demands both.
    What a conundrum huh? How do you eke out more fast firing, hard hitting coverage area (volume) and get chunky with the wick plus juice flow (density)? In an effort to tame the unbridled airiness of the new Subtank and find some meaningful density there, I dropped this in there, a tensioned twisted-lead parallel microcoil...


    Follow the convo there on Subbies CAN go deep and rich! and the listed links.

    For those unfamiliar with tension, the above is not a look-alike challenge. It won't work. It was never torched, compressed or wound by hand. Anyone interested in the mechanics of composition and assembly can check the listed links or contact me. I'd be pleased to lend a hand.

    And Rudy, if you're interested give me a nudge. One of the very first originals of the premise a twisted center-post (dual combo in single m.c., essentially a quad) still runs today, 6-months in place. I didn't tear it down on its target anniv. Just likin' it too much so I threw another batch of KGD in. Between tension and taught thick leads these things are rock solid.

    Good luck all.

    (Tensioned Contact Micro/Macro/Mini Coil)

    by MacTechVpr

    Recycling Ceramic Weave T.M.C.'s

    Kanger and other clearomizers threaded with Nextel XC-132 ceramic wicks will offer an outstanding durability compared to silica and other synthetics. However, like any other permeable thing in the physical universe, the wick will get dirty. Pigments and flavorings clump up in juice and more so with the application of heat. Think reduction on the stove. These particles eventually accumulate in any wick as you might see in a wet sponge with time and then the coil must be replaced, rebuilt or rethreaded with wick media. However, with t.m.c.'s it's possible to actually clean your wick effectively. It's claimed for things like silica and Eko but in practice that's another matter. You can torch Nextel at 1,800º F but that's not practical installed in a coil assembly. With a t.m.c. ceramic coil you can prolong its uniform performance over the life of the coil assembly with routine cleaning.

    First if you operate one or two tanks, it's still a good idea to have a few back-ups available. Why? Because what I'm going to describe is a rotation. These wicks will last a good time, if you don't stress them to their limit and wash them regularly. To do that, you need some simple steps. As soon as you start to detect any slight variation in juice color, flavor or change in draw…swap out the wick. Break open a new one, or a cleaned coil, and send the used wick to recycling…

    Routine Cleaning

    1. Soak coil assemblies in a small cup of hot tap or microwaved water.

    The water doesn't have to be distilled, filtered, etc. just clean unless you prefer it. The soaking will loosen gunked pigments from within the wick fibers and most will exude from the wick interior and exterior. How long? Depends on how dirty. If you cycle frequently like every few days, a couple of hours will do. It will take longer as the wick sees more use.

    For best results you can remove the top cap from the coil assembly and rinse the top wick separately under running tap water. Run it gently between fingers to remove as much sediment as possible. Then top wick, base and chimney may go into the hot soak. No further disassembly is required.

    2. Withdraw from the soak and allow to dry.

    Typically after a few hours, or more. If you're desperate you can take a hair dryer to it but the fibers are tight, some moisture will remain. It takes time. That's why a rotation from your back-up works. As few as 2-3 may be enough to support a pair of tanks. More is better and makes life simpler.

    3. Pulse the coil on your VV/VW device.

    You will need to burn off pigments affixed to the coil itself before reuse.

    On your variable (e.g. Vamo, Provari, etc) install your Protank base with cleaned coil in place. Set your variable at a low voltage, i.e. 3.2-3.3V to start. Begin pulsing (dry burn) the coil with short bursts of about 1-2 seconds. The wick may steam off a little. Soon after a few pulses the coil itself will start to glow. This will cook off all of the remaining moisture and all or most of the caramelized sediments which adhere to the surface. Increase power slightly to no more than 3.5-3.7V and sustain for 2-3 seconds per pulse. Within usually about 7-10 pulses at least one or two turns of the coil should begin to glow. When the coil glows red-orange-red end-to-end, you're done!

    A small fine (soft) nylon brush aids removing any dried sediments which may remain on the surface of the coil. Simply blowing most off may help. Or you may rinse the coil and leave it to dry again. Some may prefer this as it may eliminate most of the taste of the dry burn itself. This pretty much results in a coil that performs virtually as well as a new one.

    Congratulations! You are ready to refill and vape.

    However, if the coil doesn't glow uniformly as explained above or your resistance dropped below the normal rated wire resistance for your coil, there may be a problem with the coil. This may affect coil performance.

    Use an alternate if available. See the forthcoming...


  4. Carto's are great. Apart from their reliability and sheer no-fuss (relatively) practicality there's something about that mild consistent vape that's very satisfying. I still have quite a few tanks and supplies on hand. Set one up now and again. There are qualities in some juices that I just don't see but on certain combinations of a specific tank and mech or variable combination. One for example is a very cool vape with Tribeca which I enjoy with an AGR and an 18350 (but strictly above 3.9V, so it's a short vape). It's a great late-nite smooth down.

    But the vape universe has changed a lot since the carto was introduced and was king.

    Last Spring super_X_drifter introduced the contact micro coil. In Jan of this year, I introduced the physics principle of strain (tension) to the production of contact coils. These two things for the first time allowed vapers to make technologically current and efficient electrical circuits for their vaporizers…quickly by hand. There is today the opportunity for new vapers to experience near optimal performance from their devices. And I would like to see more help from the community spreading the word. From reading your post I'm reminded there are a lot of us still out there apparently unaware just how easy it is to rebuild making nearly perfect electrical winds…despite all the youtube videos.

    Bottom line, new users in minutes can make this and get to their perfect vape using simple inexpensive materials costing less than $10...

    And on the following two threads new users have a round up of most of the electrical fundamentals needed to arrive at a truly reliable build in their clearo (or any device really) because the principles such as symmetry and localization are the same…

    Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! | E-Cigarette Forum

    Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.

    Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it | E-Cigarette Forum

    (Or while there use the tags tensioned, contact, micro, microcoil in thread search to find additional/specific references.)

    There are some pretty accomplished tensioned micro coil builders and subscribers there to lend a hand. Hail me on either thread (or PM) and I'll be glad to help.

    Good luck all.

  5. A pin vise is about the most perfect device for winding coils. And it's been used by line engineers in the telecom industries for decades. Some inexpensive examples if you want to try one (available also on eBay and elsewhere)…

    Professional Swivel Head Pin Vise 2 Reversible Chucks
    8403SD Brass Pin Vise: Home & Kitchen
    SE 8403SD Swivel-Handle Pin

    Tamiya Craft Tool Series No.112 Precision Pin Vise Dr (0.1-3.2mm) 74112 Tamiya

    It allows you to wind with tension directly from the spool which negates the need to torch or compress. You can simply pulse the wire on your device until it fuses. I've written about this process quite a bit on ECF. To use it can't be simpler…you insert your wire and bit in the the chuck and tighten it. Proceed to wind. Less than 30 seconds later you have a perfect contact micro coil, if you used tension. As tight as mother nature will allow. Can't get there any other way.

    Cheap and it just works.

    Also mike you can get Dremel drill bits in kit form at Home Despot. Most of the sizes you'd want for a tank or RBA. They're perfect for winding. Also when you get around to drilling out your devices take it with you. Most of the B&M's don't use drill bits with such high-speed precision. You'll appreciate my advice when they don't scratch up your new dripper.

    Good luck mike.

  6. Well I appreciate that observation on the flaring because it's been a seriously annoying problem with both the original and aftermarket replacements I've found. But since I realized the significant likelihood of 510 shorts with incidental ground and moisture faults I haven't experienced the burned grommet syndrome with any frequency. That's what motivated me to join Metalhed's thread in the first place and focus discussions on build and termination symmetry. So in a manner of speaking having an insulator that masks that, although seemingly desirable from a taste point of view, would also tend to hide build inefficiency. And of course that effects flavor in it's own way…it mutes it.

    Just a thought Taf because we tend to ignore what we can't see, taste hear, etc. if you know what I mean.

    I got my first silicone assembly this past week and haven't built it yet. Trying to see if I can get to it tonight.

    Good luck.

  7. Tim, the point is if you wind with tension they do not unwind. The tension is like that in a torsion screen door spring. If your coil unwrapped (except for your starting turn) when you released tension you did not reach the point of natural adhesion. Not enough tension was applied. The coil will at best underperform. Properly tensioned you can forego annealing and do so on your mod as you pulse the batt and compress the coil lightly to clear any hotspots, usually none. That more uniformly anneals the wire than manually torching it. It takes a bit of practice to get the muscle memory right, a few times usually. To find the sweet spot where the wires won't get any closer, but any separate either. Then you will save a great deal of time and the hazards like minute high turns or open turns you can't really see…that will mess you up bro. Just because they seem to touch doesn't mean they do until you have adhesion. The fact that they don't is one of the main reasons the microcoils may contribute even more gurgling and flooding than a loose hand wind. They can increase the efficiency of power delivery but if it's uneven for such reasons as I mentioned you end up with a lot of unvaporized juice. So, huh!, for the microcoil. But it's got to be done right. And when it is, you'll get the video result.

    Once you achieve uniform adhesion physics dictates that you will see the maximum and uniform distribution of energy across the coil. That's the best that such a wrap could possibly do given the laws of nature. And it's doable. Fact is I've watched many people actually do it without realizing that they were achieving it.


    I'd say relax and don't push the work. Observe. It'll start talkin' at ya showing you what needs to be done. Once the body mechanics start getting recorded for the repetitive motions, the tensions needed here and there and the delicate moves it will seem like second nature. You'll have dozens strewn in your drawer and everywhere waiting to be recycled…someday. But you'll only want to do more. Because you can, in minutes. Funny thing.

    In your case I would suggest trying 30AWG. It will give you something more substantial to work with and even more capable of wind memory. The thinner gauges are more fickle because the vaporization itself is really quite violent at that size and 32 gauge is thin. The energy stored in the wire preserving its shape can be easily overcome. So 32 AWG will not be as durable, or re-wickable as the thicker.

    Now about the hot legs thing. Reinserting the mandrel, drill bit, whatever shouldn't even ever happen. The method I've been explaining on the Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! thread and others is a tension wind. That coil stays in a tensioned state until it is terminated. Period. Then, the bit is withdrawn and the intact perfected coil, pulsed and threaded.

    Not much point in making a coil perfect and then to put it through gyrations each one of which can and will distort it. You just won't see it. The method I've described is simple, takes far fewer steps and has a predictable repeatable result. Less fiddle, more vapor.

    If some believe they can improve on the physical limits of mass proximity by adding process, who am I to say no. I ain't lyin'. Just reporting the facts. The physics are incontrovertible. But we once believed the world was flat too. We all gotta find our own way.

    Now can I promise you a perfect build? Hell no Tim. I make mistakes all the time. And skew and misalign and introduce distorted turns. The huge difference is now I don't give a fudge. I didn't work 20 minutes to create a perfect coil. I drop a nickels worth of wire on the screwdriver and do a good one. Next! Just sayin' Tim.

    It's not rocket science, true. Just good science.

    Good luck Tim. I know you'll be able to do it. I did and I'm a spaz.

  8. Sup just wanted to take a minute to thank you publicly for your truly exceptional effort above.

    As you may by now know a few of us have been the past 4 months building a modest gateway to transition newcomers to rebuilding using microcoils on M_DuBb716's thread Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!.

    A good part of this for me has been trying to broaden the science and mechanical principles being applied to get new vapers there faster. After lurking for some time and a multi-month-long journey that is the odyssey of ECF's pages I picked up at metalhed73's great basic localization thread Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it which began to detail the essentials of proper electrical symmetry for the Kanger ProTank.

    So you have only yourself and these two bums to blame for getting me mixed up in this mess.

    I wanted once again to express my gratitude for considering the mechanical principle of tension and adaptation to tighter builds with the proper objectivity and the curiosity of a wild man.

    And of course, for putting these great videos together around it.

    You are a scholar and a gentleman.

    Good luck.

  9. I've just concluded a week-long study of several of the following…

    KangerTech AeroTank Base

    which I've passed along the suite of PT1, 1.5 + 2 I use personally and for wick/coil testing.

    Although I was exceptionally skeptical that something that could constrain the already miserly and minuscule air feeds of the KPT's might enhance them, I am utterly flabbergasted that it does.

    Perhaps it is some kind of venturi effect of air being forced from a ported chamber into smaller orifices but whatever the underlying physics and engineering, it absolutely works. In fact the optimal airflows are achieved by limiting the airflow from full open to one that more adequately approximates the flow of juice being supplied by the wick. This of course varies depending on temperature of juice, coil, resistance, power, differential internal tank pressure (frequency of draw), etc. And therein lies the beauty of this simple and elegant solution.

    Why Kanger didn't do this long ago to address their long-standing flooding issues I don't know. The Protank's never were too airy as so many of the reviewers have insisted. Well, yeah, compared to sucking on a carto tank (unless you have a Provari at 4V+). But let's face it not everybody has that kind of wallet travel.

    I strongly urge you to consider this accessory and don't use a Protank without one!

    Good luck.

  10. Jerms…your above statement is both TRUE and NOT TRUE. A problem.

    And the folks still making videos with hand-over-hand winds calling them microcoils give me fits for baffling those trying to get things to work.

    But it's not that to dismiss the use of the term for one size variant or another is derogatory, it's not accurate. Reviewers and many others have not focused on the purpose — the function of the coil — but its size.

    I think the term microcoil in and of itself is woefully inadequate to accurately describe what we're chasing. And marvelously confusing.

    A micro coil by super_x's initial description encompasses both size AND function, characteristically the substantial change in electron flow, cool operation, symmetrical propagation of heat, etc. what I described on some threads as "The Effect". The very reason the configuration is beneficial and practical. So in our language should we dismiss the objective, function, for size? The term mini on the other hand as applied to contact coils, a more apt name generally, is also dismissive of function as mini can merely imply miniaturized, a generic term which could include everything, including micros, in the range below 2mm.

    Since the nomenclature is so ambiguous the consequences for the word "microcoil" have been its inappropriate and incorrect use. Or perhaps more importantly deterred many from appreciating the value of the geometry and adopting it for their own use. So what we call it is far less important than the benefit we may cause others to enjoy by understanding it.

    To me the phrase contact micro coil is distinguishing of both size and function. It stimulates the curiosity and begs the question...And, what is contact?

    But we on this forum no matter how adamantly we may insist upon it will not exclusively control the etymology of this reference. The public will, in either a state of misunderstanding about it, or clarity.

    We may however be able to constructively influence the appreciation of what a microcoil actually is — by promoting a resolution of the word's ambiguity and resulting conundrum among its users.

    Good luck.

  11. I've found a good way to max the life of coil heads on clearo's with exposed bottom wicks, like Kanger's, is to purge the wick often. At every tank fill or top-off, or whenever draw or flavor seems muted, first check the 510 connection on the batt for seepage from the atomizer. Dry the battery connection as necessary along with the exterior of wick assembly and atomizer base threading using a paper towel. Then blow out the assembled head from the 510 side to clear any juice or condensation from the chimney end into the towel.

    Now comes the finger magic part...placing an index finger firmly on the 510 connector bottom (covering the hole in the pin with the paper)...and likewise both ends of the extruding wick with thumb and middle finger...blow out from the chimney side. This purges sediments built up at the wick ends and you may see these pigments deposited on the paper towel, particularly with darker juices.

    After completing this step your atomizer will seem to perform like you just installed a new coil assembly (YMMV with dense juices, believe me, this VG lover knows!).

    The wick acts as a filter accumulating large particulates from flavoring at the cut frayed tips of the wick. This accumulation begins to affect flow over time. If not cleared it gradually feeds this minute debris further into the wicking media. This diminishes the efficiency of vaporization causing aggregation of gunk on the coil element itself. As this progresses gurgling, leaking, dry hits, etc. ensue. Finally more and more moisture gathers at the 510 connection in the bottom of the head assembly from incomplete vaporization, often with resistance changes, and ultimately…no good vapor. Reinstall such a wick and the process repeats more readily each time.

    You simply can't do this on clearo's with replaceable cartridge-type wick assemblies, nor rebuild them really, any more than a carto, so I consider them a non-option in practical terms…unless you have unlimited flow and desire to endlessly forever pay for 'em.

    This simple maintenance step can prolong the life of a coil extending the period between installation and the need for washing and/or replacement.

    Hope this really helps. It has for me and would have saved a lot of hassle had I known from the beginning.

    So keep it dry and blow it out!

    Good luck.

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