Demonstrated on an Erlkonigin, using rayon, but can be used on multiple decks with either cotton or rayon.
Links to my e-liquid reviews will go here as I get them posted.
(VG E-Liquid) http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vg-e-liquid-reviews/548283-tetra-vape-blueberry-cheesecake-review.html
(VG E-Liquid) http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vg-e-liquid-reviews/548571-tetra-vape-spike-spiegel-review.html
Hello, and welcome to Signatures 101. This simple guide will walk you through the process of adding a picture to your signature (these pictures are called "Forum Banners"). This is an example banner and is already in use by an ECF member:
When you use your mouse or touchpad to right click on the banner, a dialog box pops up. One of the options is "Copy image URL." (on a mac it's "copy image address") Left click on that. The dialog box will disappear. This is normal.
Next, you want to go to the top right hand corner of any page on ECF. Click on "Settings." This will take you to your "User Control Panel."
About halfway down that page, on the left hand side, is a box marked "Edit Signature," click on that.
Which will bring you to this page (before doing the next step, if you have a quit banner already, check to see that the cursor is where you want it, because that will determine whether the new signature banner is in front of or behind/or above or below the quit banner).
Click on the "Insert Image" button. a dialog box will appear in the middle of the screen.
It will prompt you to add an image from Url. Right click on the box under "URL" as marked in step 1. Another dialog box will pop up. Left click on "Paste," then click on "OK."
If you want you can use the buttons indicated in step 1 above to have your signature appear on the left, right, or centered under your posts. Step 2, left click on "Save Signature" and you are done.
LINKING YOUR SIGNATURE TO A WEBSITE
If you want the signature to link to ProVape, just copy and paste this text into your signature editor, (bypassing the "insert image" button):
Remember, this is for the example signature I showed at the beginning of this post. You will need to replace the IMG link with the link for your own picture. If you want it to link to a different website, replace the URL with the URL of the website of your choice.
There has been an unreasonable level of hysteria concerning brass in atomizers. Brass isn't really the issue, as many high end atomizers and mods make use of "naval" brass, or brass that contains no lead. The issue is in clones manufactured in china, that make use of normal (leaded) brass.
The problem is that Chinese brass may or may not contain up to 2% lead. When brass is machined, it heats up, and as it heats up, the lead escapes to the surface of the brass, where it gets smeared around on the surface of the brass. It is doubtful that this lead poses a serious risk to vapers, as the temperatures required to melt lead are higher than those used in vaping. Still, there is a method to make even regular brass safe for use in vaping.
Some brewers use brass fittings in conjunction with their wort chillers or other brewing equipment and are concerned about the lead that is present in brass alloys. A solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide (common 3% solution) will remove tarnish and surface lead from brass parts when they are soaked for 5 minutes or less at room temperature. The brass will turn a buttery yellow color as it is cleaned. If the solution starts to turn green and the brass darkens, then the parts have been soaking too long and the copper in the brass is beginning to dissolve, exposing more lead. The solution has become contaminated and the part should be re-cleaned in a fresh solution.
Ideally, this process should be used on brass drip tips from China, and brass in atomizers should be avoided in general for the simple reason that contact with brass darkens e-liquid in a very unsightly way as the metal responds to the acid in the e-liquid (all e-liquids are slightly acidic). This causes no harm to the e-liquid, it merely oxidizes it, a process that occurs anyway as vaporized e-juice leaves the coil and wick. This was proved by vaporizing clear (fresh) liquid nicotine and recovering it. The recovered nicotine had turned golden yellow, the same as aged, oxidized nicotine.
The jury is still out on chrome plated brass, as we honestly don't know what the effects of vaping trace amounts of chromium are. In another 10 or 15 years we might, as almost all Chinese low cost attys are made of chrome plated brass, Evods, ProTanks, etc.
Here is a link with more information: http://brewingrabble.com/resources/surface-lead.htm
If the worst should come to pass, and the FDA criminalizes or bans vaping, or if nicotine vendors are no longer able to sell nicotine, vapers will need a fallback plan. Everything used in vaping is easily accessible, with the exception of raw nicotine. This may also be helpful to vapers in countries that restrict importation or distribution of liquid nicotine products like e-liquid.
If you came here looking for a recipe for WTA e-liquid, this isn't it. This is just a nice clean NET extraction. For the best WTA, go here: Aroma Ejuice Manufacturer of WTA Whole Tobacco Alkaloid Eliquid
Vaping items recognized as "easy to obtain."
Batteries: originally used by the high-end flashlight modders.
Personal Vaporizer: can be cobbled together by anyone with basic construction and tinkering skills
Atomizer: With easy access to both heating wire (Kanthal A-1) and organic cotton, anyone with a rebuildable atomizer will be set for life
Vegetable Glycerin: used as skin protectant and laxative. Can often be found at grocery stores and pharmacies.
Propylene Glycol: is commonly found at animal feed stores. Used as a food additive for cattle and dogs.
Flavorings: The flavorings we use now are primarily used by the food industry and are already FDA approved
The only thing that the FDA can do to stop vaping is to stop the sale and/or import of liquid nicotine.
In this situation, it is important to be able to create a personal supply of nicotine that is easy to make, relatively clean, and inexpensive.
So we must turn to Cold Ethanol Extraction. This method was first proposed by Lastlokeon as an attempt to produce a WTA extraction. In this, it failed. It did, however, result in the cleanest solvent tobacco extraction (NET) available. As a bonus, it also contained a spread of the nicotine alkaloids as well, though much reduced from what one would find in WTA.
The following method is Lastlokeon's, with a few refinements by myself (following suggestions made by jbbishop) and interspersed with comments and observations by Dvap as he reproduced Lastlokeon's method to determine alkaloid extraction percentages. (Note: Dvap does not endorse or recommend NET extractions).
EDIT: there have been some major changes to this procedure, based on additional input from Lastlokeon. I don't know what this has done to the numbers that DVAP came up with from his testing, so I will let them stand, for now.
If you see *Why this works! followed by a paragraph in italics, you can skip reading it. It's just there to provide further information.
Tobacco. Any dried form will work. The tobacco used by Lastlokeon and Dvap was ordinary shag cut roll-your-own. Ideally you would want to use air cured low-nitrosamine whole leaf tobacco that you shred yourself. Whole Tobacco Leaves by the Pound, Buy Tobacco Leaf, Bulk Tobacco, Fronto Leaf, Cigar Wrappers, Binders, and Fillers This site has been recommended for purchasing cured leaf tobacco.
Ethanol. Any unflavored spirit will do, the higher the proof the better. Vodka in a pinch, but 190 proof Everclear (PGA) would be far better. This is what we are using as the solvent. If you decide to use Vodka, it will need to be dried and this process is covered later.
Freezer. You will need to freeze this tobacco cocktail for 4-12 hours. Lastlokeon did so for 6 hours. This is a catch 22. The longer you extract, the more nicotine you will get, but you will also pull more unfilterable organic solids and flavonoids.
Molecular Sieve. These little beads are properly called "A3 Molecular Sieve 4-8" and go by the commercial name Zeolite. They can be purchased on eBay.
Syringe and cotton ball.
Large glass container (x2).
Step 1. First things first. You will want to use 190 proof Everclear (PGA) or at most, bring it close to being anhydrous ethanol. Because pure ethanol absorbs water from the atmosphere, we will not be able to get it to a pure (200 proof) state, nor is this desired. In order for the extract to work properly, some water is needed. 190 proof is good, 195 proof is better, anything above or below those two numbers is not good. The ideal alcohol to use is about 95% pure with a 5% water content (195 proof).
*Why This Works! The reason we don't want much water in our alcohol solution is because water catches tars and resins that the ethanol won't. This is not a "clean" extraction, but anything we can do to avoid organic sludge being added to the extract is good. This is why Vodka, with a 60% water content, is a very poor choice for this extraction.
You will need about 10 grams of Zeolite per ml of water you want removed. a full fifth (750 ml) of Everclear contains about 38 ml. of water, and we want to remove half of that, so you would need to add about 190 grams of Zeolite to the bottle and let them absorb water for 24 hours. The Zeolite beads are infinitely reuseable and can be spread out on a baking sheet and cooked under a broiler at 140c to remove absorbed water. They can then be stored in an air tight jar for further use. This process can really be skipped if one is using 190 proof alcohol. If all you have available is Vodka, then this process becomes very necessary. When using Vodka, you stop the process when the bottle is just under half full.
*Why this works! The reason we use A3 Zeolite is because it has holes of 3 Angstrom (one Angstrom is one ten billionth of a meter) and can separate water (which has a diameter of 2.5 Angstroms) from ethanol (which has a diameter of 4.5 Angstroms).
Bake the beads first, then add them to the Everclear or vodka. Seal the bottle and then remove the beads after 24 hours. Re-bake the beads to remove the absorbed water and then store them in an airtight container or repeat the procedure as needed. I'm sure it goes without saying, but DON'T DRINK THE ALCOHOL! This method of creating anhydrous ethanol is courtesy of jbbishop.
Step 2. Shred the tobacco and use some of the 190 proof alcohol to dampen it thoroughly. Freeze and thaw this tobacco three time to ensure cellular disruption.
*Why This Works! Freezing and thawing the tobacco ruptures the cellular walls, allowing the oils to be extracted more efficiently.
Step 3. Put 100 grams frozen tobacco into the container, add chilled ethanol until the tobacco is saturated and covered. Place in freezer for 9 hours.
Step 4. Filter the contents through a sieve without compaction into a new container. A "permanent" mesh style coffee filter will probably work best for this. Discard the tobacco solids. Evaporate 70% of the remaining liquid. This can be done via natural evaporation, low heating of the solution (CAUTION: FIRE RISK) or through distillation. Refreeze for 24 hours. At this point you can choose to complete the evaporation process and then proceed to Step 5, or you can choose to follow the alternate Step 5a.
Step 5. Filter using the cotton ball and syringe method.
Step 5a. Alternate method: Add a few chips of dry ice (CO2) to the solution to cause additional solids to separate. While the extract is still almost frozen, filter using syringe micron filters for extra purity and clarity. Warning: Do not handle dry ice with your bare hands.
Step 6. You should have about 2-6 grams of a pale to golden yellow viscous liquid with a high nicotine content. Wear rubber gloves and handle this liquid as though it were pure nicotine.That means you need to dilute it with VG and/or PG before vaping it! Adding 240 ml of PG/VG should bring the nicotine content down below the 24mg mark.
The standard method of titration to determine nicotine content will not work on this product.
*Why this works! The nicotine and alkaloids produced in this manner are salts, not a purified freebase. Titration is designed to measure free base nicotine and won't detect nicotine alkaloid salts.
Like Dvap, I don't recommend making this, but if there is no other option, this is one of, if not the, best way to make a NET. I recommend that you print this off and store it in your "bug out bag," in case WTA e-liquid or commercial nicotine become unavailable. Vaping this is better than smoking...but not nearly as safe as vaping regular e-liquid.
Dvap won't vape this stuff. So let that roll around in your thoughts for a minute.
Folks in Australia and Canada might want to give this a try (because nicotine e-juice is restricted in those two countries...among others).
I have not made this, and will only make it in an emergency situation. You can do as you wish. I posted this here in hopes that it would be helpful to vapers with no access to liquid nicotine.
There are many High End Mods (HEM) and high end atomizers out there, and like most luxury items, they get copied. These copies range from copies, clones (1:1 replicas) to outright counterfeits, complete with logos, engravings, and randomized serial numbers. In a few cases, the clones are superior to the product they copy.
Lets talk about ethics:
This man is the inventor of the Golden Greek mods (GG). He also created rebuildable atomizers for those mods, the UFS, Ithaka, and Odysseus, using ideas based off of the work of one brilliant German inventor who goes by the name "raidy" on these forums. raidy invented the Genisis concept, and the atomizer and tank setup for the same.
He owned the patents on this idea, and he gave it to the vaping world with only one condition.
DO NOT MAKE GENISIS ATOMIZERS FOR PROFIT, AND DO NOT COMMERCIALIZE THE CONCEPT.
Within months these atomizers started being churned out by every high end modder in the world. raidy didn't get a penny, and he has mostly left the forums in disgust.
I read this thread the other day:
and it made me laugh. Many of the mod makers have profited from a design concept they stole from raidy, and now they are offended that China is copying their designs and selling them cheaply? raidy wanted Genisis atomizers in the hands of every vaper, not just the ones who could afford them, and because of clones, his dream became reality.
Buy the high end if you can afford it for the quality, or buy the clone if you really care about the original intent of the inventor. Either way you shouldn't feel like a bad person for choosing one over the other.
This thread, on the FastTech forums is a fascinating response from a maker who's mod got cloned. He was equal parts dismayed that his work was copied and ecstatic that his name and product would be available for the world to use. http://www.fasttech.com/forums/1746703/t/1298135/hank-you-for-cloning-my-desing-mod[SUB][/SUB]
Nov. 26 2014 Update:
Now that I have a few authentic mods under my belt, I felt I should revisit this subject. My favorite mods (at least for the moment) are the GP PAPS v2.5 and the ZNA. I own clones of both these mods, and due to my owning clones, I've not only purchased the authentics, but have also purchased enough spare parts to turn almost all of my clones into authentics. For the PAPS, that means spending almost $300 to turn my clones into Lux mods. The only remaining clone parts are the switch housings. For the ZNA, I purchased the authentic adjustable 510, steam monkey tube, and hybrid adapter, and I just purchased an authentic that comes with all those as well. My Heron clones have been mostly turned into authentics as well, with the replacement of the GPins, springs, o-rings, and 510 adapter.
Clones are a great way to explore the world of vaping, and many people stick with clones. Often, clones are just as good as the authentics they copy, if not better. Often people who own and love authentic will buy clones to use as out-and-about "beater" mods; there's nothing wrong with that either.
Zen (House of Hybrids) welcomed clones of his product, and even went so far as to agree to service and upgrade the clone ZNA's...for a price.
Perseas, (VapourArt/GP) refuses to allow mentions of the clones on his forums and has gone so far as to edit posts that refer to them. He even asked an ECF member to remove a reference to it in her signature. This stupidly shortsighted view will cost him purchasers in the long run, because the clones are driving business to his shop. The clones, while good copies, do not match the authentics in materials or finish, and that was before he had the Chinese manufacturers start removing the logos.
If a manufacturer has a genuinely good vaping product, he or she does not need to fear clones. They are just free advertising.
Separate names with a comma.