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  1. This blog was conceived more as a rant than an actual informative post. But I guess nobody likes a whiney crybaby, so I'll go ahead and try my best to explain some stuff that's been bugging me.

    SO. what IS this blog post about? I've been around the forums and noticed a very common misinformation floating around: If you want a warmer vape, use lower gauge wires. Before anyone starts throwing a fit and start quoting RipTrippers, calm down and let me explain this in a purely scientific way.

    To do so, let me first start off by getting certain scientific concepts and definition out of the way:

    ********************************************************************************************
    Concepts and Definition:

    1) Ohms law: if you don't understand this, please go ahead and look up on google to understand the classic V = RI equation, and how that relates to power/watts: P = IV = (I^2)R = (V^2)/R.

    2) Relationship between Power (watts) and heat energy (Joules): Here in the vaping world, there is often liberal use of both power and energy to describe the heat that we get from the coil. There really isn't a big deal in doing so for our applications, but for those curious,

    Joules = Watts * Time (in seconds)

    ex. if you pumped 30 watts of power to a coil for 2 seconds, the total heat energy to the coil is 60 Joules.

    3) Specific Heat Capacity: To make this as simple as possible, the specific heat capacity refers to how much heat energy is required to raise the temperature of a unit volume of material by 1 degrees.

    As such logically, the units associated with specific heat capacity is: Joules (heat energy) per mass (g) per temperature degree.

    Ex: if an object with a mass of 1g has a specific heat capacity of 215 joules/g/K, then supplying the object with 430 Joules will raise its temperate by 2 K.

    NOW, because specific heat capacity refers to the heat capacity for a UNIT VOLUME, this means that regardless of what object you're talking about, as long as they are made of the same material, they ALL have the same specific heat capacity. i.e. a oceanliner made of kanthal has the same specific heat capacity as your wires. yes.

    4) Heat capacity: Unlike the specific heat capacity, the Heat capacity accounts for an entire object, rather than for a unit volume of an object. Here's an example:

    Lets assume that 1 inch of XX gauge kanthal has a mass of 1g. Lets assume that the specific heat capacity is 213 J/g/K

    So, if you wrap a coil using 3 inches of the same kanthal, then the heat capacity of the ENTIRE coil is
    3 * 213 = 639 J/K, meaning you will need 639 Joules in order to raise the temperature of the wire by 1 K.

    5) Relating gauge of wires to mass and resistance: Now. The way the kanthal wire gauge size relates to resistance is as follows: Every 3 gauge size you drop, the resistance and mass is approximately halved.

    For example: comparing 33 ga and 30ga wires:

    Resistance of 33ga = 16.6 ohms/ft
    Resistance of 30ga = 8.36 ohms/ft

    Length per pound
    33ga = 8217 ft
    30ga = 4142 ft

    ********************************************************************************************

    SO. Now that we have all these out of the way, What does it mean?

    For the sake of a meaningful inquiry, we will vary one parameter, and keep all others constant. In the case of our application, it simply means that we will keep wattage and resistance constant, and vary only the gauge of wires.

    Using the 33ga and 30ga examples above, consider the following:

    Because the resistance of 30ga is HALF that of a 33ga for the same length, we will need 2x the length of 30ga wires in order to achieve the resistance of a specific 33ga build.

    Because the mass per length of the 30ga is TWICE that of the 33ga for the same length, then in total, for 2 builds of the SAME resistance, the mass of a 30ga build will be 2 x 2 = 4 TIMES that of the 33ga build.

    Now, here's the kicker: as mentioned previously, ALL kanthal wires will have the same SPECIFIC HEAT CAPACITY.

    BUT! because heat capacity is linearly correlated to total mass, it then follows that the HEAT CAPACITY of the 30ga build is also 4 TIMES that of the 33ga build.

    Which then means that if we pump 30 watts (lets assume a firing time of 1 sec. this means that 30 watts will give us 30 joules of heat energy) into both builds,

    the 33 gauge build will gain 4 TIME as much temperature units as the thicker 30gauge wires.

    SO. point being: using thicker gauge wires WILL NOT give you a warmer vape. On the contrary, it will give you a much cooler vape.

    Now, there IS a caveat to this:

    there is ONE scenario when using lower gauge wires will give you a warmer vape, and then is ONLY when you drop the resistance AND keep the voltage constant (eg when using a mech): i.e. you use less wraps, and go for a lower resistance.

    This happens because by decreasing the number of wraps, you lower the heat capacity of the whole coil. (keeping the same number of wraps will simply reduce the increase in heat capacity compared to a higher gauge wire). At the same time, the lower resistance will pull a higher current, resulting in higher wattage and thus heat energy, giving you a warmer vape.

    Conclusion:
    In conclusion, using thicker gauge wires DO NOT naturally lead to a warmer vape. On the contrary, there are far more cases when using a thicker gauge wires will lead to a cooler vape. THE ONLY way that thicker gauge wires can give you a warmer vape, is if you overcome the increase in heat capacity of the coil by exponentially increasing the wattage supplied to the build (e.g. lowering the resistance of the build to draw more current).

    So there we go. I hope that we can have less people throwing out "oh just use a thicker wire" as a solution every time someone asks for a warmer vape. It just isn't universally true.
    Vape Guru Girl likes this.
  2. Bonjour my vaping friends!

    So. just a quick sharing on something I've been building and using on all my attys. I have absolutely no clue if it's smth original or it's been done by other folks, but ah, it's pretty irrelevant mm? Vapes really really well for me.

    So. background to the build.

    The truth is, I've never understood why everyone squish their microcoils (aka contact microcoils because the wraps are all in contact with each other). It seemed like something everyone else does, and I kinda just followed along. In fact, the only real advantage I can think of for a contact microcoil is superior thermal efficiency, resulting in faster heat up time.

    (in case you're wondering what I mean by that, think of each wrap of the coil as having the same amount of current and thus wattage density. However because the wraps are now in contact with each other, the wraps in the middle of the coil experiences the highest amount of "shared heat", and this is primarily through conduction. This explains why a proper contact microcoil glows from the inside out)

    Now that said, think about it. A super nice and tight microcoil essentially forms a barrel-like structure with significantly poorer permeability in the middle than at the edge, which isn't the best for vapor production, no? I mean just look at the way your vapor shoots out the next time your fire up a juiced up wick. The most aggressive vaporization occurs at the edges of the coil, yes?

    So. I personally think that the contact microcoil suffers from 2 main flaws:
    1) poor permeability for vapor across heating surface area, resulting in slightly lower vapor production. I also think (purely conjecture) that this causes greater gunking.
    2) the center of the coil heats up faster and hotter than the rest of the coil, resulting in a excessively gunked up wick smack in the middle of the coil, and possibility some burning.

    My proposed solution to that (again, no clue whatsoever if it's been done. I wouldn't be surprised if it has been since it's a painfully obvious solution) is to create a gapped microcoil, like so:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In this case, I'm using a 2mm drill bit, 28 gauge kanthal, 3 + 3 + 3 wraps, total = 1.5 ohms (higher than usual due to the length of kanthal between each subcoil)

    Takes a tad more pinching and squeeing to get everything nice and glowing evenly

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    and that's it. wicked and ready to vape.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I personally think the flavor and vapor production is better off this sucker, but I have a feeling it's all placebo.

    SO.

    if anyone tries this, lemme know how it vapes : )


    Oh p.s. you can always do it with a twisted wire too :p 32ga twisted with (i think) 0.7 x 0.06mm ribbon :)

    [​IMG]
  3. HELLO!

    For once in my life, I was one of the "cool kids" who managed to discover something new and awesome before it hits the reviewers and becomes popular/mainstream! HEHEHEHE

    but that aside,

    the good ole Koh Gen Do organic cotton! Organic, completely chemical free, dye-free, unbleached.
    [​IMG]

    aahh.

    All the goodness.

    nice dense yet uber soft cotton pads. Heck, they're so untreated that there are remnant little specks of seeds and what not left on the pad:

    [​IMG]

    In any case I've heard folks talking about how they can't seem to figure out exactly how much of it to use, and since I've found a pretty 100% replicable way of doing it for a kayfun, thought I would share it here :)

    SO.

    first thing I always do, take a single pad and split it into half thickness.

    For a 2mm coil, I've found that the perfect width of the pad to snip off is approx 2 times the width of the coil (especially if it's 2mm inner diameter):

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    Interestingly, I've also found that if i take each strip lengthwise (with respect to the pad), and divide that into 3 wicks as shown below, I get the exactly perfect wick length without even having to snip off any excess at the end

    [​IMG]

    Once you have your wick, the first thing i do is just to massage the sucker so that it becomes a nice cylindrically shaped wick. DO NOT twist or compress it! the KGD cotton pad is already considerably dense by itself. All you wanna do is shape the wick, not squish it:


    [​IMG]

    Pull the little wick through with minimal resistance! it should be firm, but not tugging and messing up the coils

    [​IMG]

    juice it up, arrange the ends of the wicks and bam, it's done! no snipping whatsoever.

    [​IMG]

    So yeap. Hope that helps.

    I LOVE using the KGD because it's super easy to "prep" the wick, and the flavor is awesome with no break in whatsoever.

    Hope you guys enjoy it as much as I do
  4. Herrow!

    Another build on the kayfun.

    Got bored as usual, and i was thinking,

    of ALL the fancy hyped up builds, the one build that actually worked bloody well for me was the diamond coil on my drippers.

    No clue why (not a build pro), but I would imagine it has something to do with the way the airflow flows right through the wires (again, puuuuure speculation).

    SO. seemed perfect for a kayfun.

    here goes. 2 strands of wires, each with 2 sub coils.

    5 wrap on each sub coil on a 1/16 drill bit, 30ga, (so this is essentially a dual coil build)

    1.1ohms total.

    [​IMG]

    of course, make sure to centre the airhole smack in the middle of the diamond coil

    side view:
    [​IMG]

    Fired upppp
    [​IMG]

    Wicking: I use a skinny wick for each of the sub coils. (I had to trim the wicks before putting the chimney on)
    [​IMG]

    Wicked and juiced up. Note that there are essentially 2 sub coils on each side. the 4 wick ends of each side's sub coils thus go into that side's juice deck like so: (again, juicing it up makes it so much easier to mould it to shape)

    [​IMG]

    and the final product: how it looks after smacking on the bottom chimney section:
    [​IMG]

    Overall, performed well enough! not as amazing as in a RDA though.

    that aside, changes I would have made would be to use a 3/64 drillbit instead, and keeping the 30ga wire. This should drop the resistance, as well as reduce the occurrences of over-wicking that i experienced from time to time.

    But yeap. good flavor, no dry hits. Happy I am.

    Lemme know if you haz any questions!
  5. Ello! This should be quick!

    I have an earlier post on the double barrel coils build on a KFL.

    Here's another one!

    30ga, 5/64 drill bits, 14 wraps. 1.4 ohms

    The main difference is that this time, both coils are mounted in-line with the 2 post screws, as opposed to perpendicular to them.

    Pictures!

    Wrapping 2x identical coils on 2 different drill bits, mount them babies IN LINE with the positive and negative posts. I wrap the leads a full circle around each of the screws!

    [​IMG]

    Deliberately raised the coils quite a bit higher than I typically would, mainly because I didn't wanna obstruct the air hole too much given that theres 2 fat coils + wicks above it this time

    [​IMG]

    hind view:
    [​IMG]

    Side view:
    [​IMG]

    Coils fire up!
    [​IMG]

    Running at 15 watts
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now, time to wick. Now much to say, except this is exactly the length of cotton wick i used
    [​IMG]

    So this: basically the wicks from each coil will go into their corresponding juice decks. this is how it looks with the lower chinney section on:

    [​IMG]

    welp! so here it is!

    Some things that I would change:

    1) for my provari, I would go down to 11 wraps around 5/64. the dual coils ALWAYS consistently gives me 1.2 ohms. at 4.2 volts, I can max out the 15 watts limit. with the current 14 wraps, it does take quite a bit of time to heat up so that's no good.

    2) for the DNA or mechs, I would go 28ga and 9 or 10 wraps. you'll end up in the mid to higher sub-ohm area, and it heats up decently.

    lemme know if you haz any questions!
  6. Well! Ello! Kinda got lazy but. here I am!

    So today's build is gonna be a dual chimney build for the Fogger v4 (which btw is a ridiculously good RTA for a solid price).

    I love chimney builds, but wicking a dual chimney in a Aqua/Fogger v4 type atty always stumped me.

    ANYWAYS. I haz it figured out finally and I love it. So here goes. 10 wraps of 28 gauge, around 5/64. Net resistance = 0.9 ohms. (using 11 wraps = 1.2 ohms. works every single time)

    1) Make 2 identical coils and mount em on the the atty like so:




    [​IMG]

    Always make sure coil and airholes are lined up
    [​IMG]


    Side view to show the height of the coils. I suppose you could lower it to adjust for flavor/throat hit. I personally left the bottom of the coils flush with the top deck. Didnt wanna let it get too low and risk melting the insulator:

    [​IMG]

    Fired up nice and even:
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Wicking: 2 strands of cotton used. Each strand starts from a channel on one side, travels diagonally across the centre to the coil on the opposite side, wrapped around the outside of the coil, and back diagonally to the starting side's other juice channel.

    [​IMG]

    Waaaay easier to mould the cotton when it's wet
    [​IMG]

    This is how much cotton I have in the channel. The important thing is this: previously when I used the amount of cotton perfect for a 5/56 drill bit and shove the entire end down the channel, the wick always gets choked. This time what I did was to cut the end of the cotton wick to form a downward pointing V shape, and pushed that into the channel (halfway down)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    With the chimney on
    [​IMG]

    Results:
    VAPES LIKE A }*|%\*]€| CHAMP. currently at 27 watts on my zna30. AFC at the largest and tbh the vapor is pretty ridiculous.

    Issues:
    1) took me 10x 2 seconds drag before the cotton broke in. Before it did, flavor and vapor production was worse than the crap blu ecigs put out. Then all of a sudden I got the nicest lung fill and it was heaven. I guess using boiled cotton would've cut short the break in period
  7. So I know I originally intended to only blog about random builds that I've figuring out, but it just dawned on me that there are SO many important information out there in ECF, except that they are buried in MASSIVE threads. so I figured I'm gonna start compiling and categorizing these information; mostly just because it'll be useful for my own reference, and well, it would turn out to be useful for some folks.

    First thing! If anyone is looking for:
    1) a source of replacement o-rings
    2) replacement deck screws with flat bottoms (many clones have crappy post screws that are rounded at the bottom, making it real hard to capture your leads)

    and like me, refuse to pay the ridiculous mark up for normally dirt-cheap and accessible parts, you're in luck.


    O RINGS:

    (Btw, the information in this post is courtesy of the very kind ECF-er, Akdare)


    What:
    1) Fill screw oring (the super tiny ones): 2mm inner diameter x 1mm wide
    2) Chimney (sits in the top cap, where the top chimney section slides through): 5mm inner diameter x 1.5 mm wide
    3) Base and other sections: 18mm inner diameter x 1mm wide

    Where:
    1) Fill Screw oring: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9262k101/
    2) Chimney oring: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9262k121/
    3) Base and other sections orings: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9262k616/

    SCREWS:

    1) What: Those tiny screws for capturing the leads on the deck. Critical dimension: M1.6x0.35mm

    Where:
    1) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Machine-Screw-Cheese-A2-SS-3mm-Slotted-Plain-TS-M1-6x0-35mm-Pack-10-/331230057768?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1ed99528. (If this is no longer listed, look for the seller Zoro Tools, and find the Cheese A2 SS 3mm Slotted screws. I've found the 3mm to be absolutely perfect)

    2) http://www.fastener-express.com/m1.6-x-35-x-3mm-pan-phil-machine-screws-stainless-qty-50-1.aspx (this is a philips head instead of slotted)

    There are definitely other sources, but these are the 2 places I've personally bought from and tested them. The main thing about these screws is the fact that the bottom of the screw head is flat, allowing for super easy captures.

    2) What: Fill hole screws! (information courtesy of Paul.K)
    a. Kayfun Lite: M2.5 Countersunk, length = 4mm
    b. KFL+ : M2.5 Pan head, length = 4mm
    b2. From MaxUT: For the KFL+, apparently the M2.5 x 0.45 x 5 screw also works (Havent verified this myself)

    Where: No clue for a. and b. I personally haven't bought these replacements before so i can't help. If you know of a source, please let me know!

    For b2, it can be found here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#92000a103/


    and oh lastly as a side rant,

    to all you sneaky greedy vendors charging $8 to $15 for a tiny pack of o-rings, shame on you guys and well, *** you. :facepalm:
  8. For the good folks who know me, I've recently procured a handdrill.

    You see, I've always been a huge skeptic of bold exaggerated claims, and twisted wires was one of those things. It simply did not make sense to me that twisting the wires could necessarily make such a huge difference in the vape experience.

    Needless to say, I've been proven wrong. Very, very wrong.

    In the past month, I've experimented with:
    1) double 32ga
    2) triple 32ga
    3) double 30ga
    4) double 28ga
    5) 32+30ga hybrid
    6) single twisted ribbon (until it buckles on itself to form incredible compact ribbings)

    and it is true: twisted wires are a leap beyond what a normal kanthal can give you.

    Now there is a caveat to this: we all have our individual preferences for our vapor. I say this based entirely on my own personal preference: I love varm, dense, moist vapes. and most importantly, I value flavor above everything else. Throat hit and vapor production are both highly desirable, but I have no interest in cloud-chasing or getting rammed in the throat by a truck. So if you like the same kinda vape as I do, you will enjoy twisted wires tremendously.

    But of course, just when I thought I had found vaping nirvana, a fella ECF-er suggested that I check out Mundy's Magic Wire. (shoutout to Gigdujour . Thanks for the introduction!). For those who don't know, MM is essentially an incredibly intricate twisted wire made up of multiple twisted ribbon kanthal. The process results in the formation of a wire with little "cups" running along the entire length of the wire, resulting in the most ridiculous surface area per length you will see in any heating element. Here's a picture:

    View attachment 328428
    Photo credits: pdib

    This was of course "invented" by the genius Alexander Mundy, also a fellow ECF. he has a thread on this that can be found at http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/474592-alexander-mundys-magic-twisted-ribbon.html

    Needless to say, I was tempted and tried my hands on it.

    The recommended dimensions of the ribbon kanthal was 0.6 x 0.07 mm. However I only had 0.6 x 0.1 at this moment.

    Did my first attempt, triple twisted, and i got this:
    [​IMG]

    Apparently that turned out well. Only problem was that i wanted to use it on the kayfun, and the wires were simply too fat, and the resistance were too low.

    Redid it, but this time using only double twisted ribbon kanthal, and i got this:

    [​IMG]

    Mounted it on my kayfun:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I shan't bore you with the details, so i'll go right to the point:

    - Throat hit isn't the most spectacular, but it is good
    - Vapor production is very good, but not smth you would be getting huge clouds with
    - the vape is a very warm vape (at 15 watts)
    - vapor is extremely dense
    - Most importantly, the flavor is VERY VERY good (best I've found by far).
    - the wire IS thick. You're either gonna have to drill out your posts, or end up being like me and only using the double twisted version.

    Some things that I have yet to spend enough time to figure out, but might be a concern:
    1) I can see gunk accumulating and getting trapped in every crevice on the coil. Might be an issue if you're using juice that are notorious coil gunkers
    2) I do all my coils at 1/16 drill bit. Now this coil goes through A LOT of juice. which leads me to worry about whether my wicking can keep up. Right now all my juices are 50/50 or 70PG, and I havent had any problems. I will be trying out my boba's bounty though to test out the wicking and the gunking factor.
    3) It is considerably more tedious to make than the usual twisted wires

    In short, if your vaping preferences are like mine and you like spending hours perfecting builds, you are gonna enjoy MM. I would strongly recommend folks out there to at least give it a shot and see if it tickles your fancy. Till then!

    ETA: I would include a step by step section, but really, the thread by Alexander Munder is a far better resource to check out. And I like it so much I kinda want all credits to go to him. So do check it out : )
  9. Here's a build I tried out last night. Double barrel on the kfl+.

    It's not really as fancy as it sounds; basically just a microcoil build, but with 2 microcoils lined side by side.

    I tired this boil once with a 1/16 drillbit, and soon realized the physical limitations of the kayfun building deck. As open and as elevated as it is, the space between the 2 posts is tiny.

    With a 1/16 drill bit, tried both 32 and 30 ga kanthal. Found that they couldn't fit side by side and I didn't like it. Managed to find another screwdriver, not sure what it is, but its a tad smaller. 1/16 is basically 4/64 inch, so I'm guessing its a 3/64 width. or 3.5/64 :p

    In any case, i didn't want too low a resistance, and bearing in mind the space constraint, I opted for:
    - 10 wraps of 32 ga around approx 3/36 drill bit.
    - came up to 1.6 ohms for the dual coil.

    Didn't manage to get many pictures because quite frankly, i hated building it. Getting both aligned and then getting both leads under the screw was IMPOSSIBLE and a plain pain in the azz.

    so i did 2 identical microcoils, and lined them up side by side such that both leads of each coil are side by side on each post.

    spent 15 mins struggling with it and there we go


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    do the typical pulse burning of the coils and get em squished up:



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    wick em up. I actually really like the way the wick looks running parallel to each other, down to the deck.
    [​IMG]

    and of course, the vape:
    [​IMG]


    Had it built to 1.4 ohms. And for once rip tripper wasn't exaggerating. Running it at 4.5 ohms on my provari, and it's a very very warm and intense vape, with super dense vapor. Def not something for my ADV. Love the warmth, love the density. But the throat hit....... I'm not cut out for it hahah


    [​IMG]


    Absolutely hated building it. Getting the coils in line and catching both leads under the post on both sides was a massive PITA. But. Hmm. If you love warm vapes with extremely dense vapor (which I unfortunately do), this could be worth it. Gonna try it again when my 6mg juice arrives.

    Some stuff I would love to talk about / get inputs on:

    1) I've never ever been a fan of building coils smaller than 1/16 in diameter. I find that any smaller, the wick struggles to keep juiced up. This is particularly worse if you use anything more than 9 wraps, since you now have a lot more wick farther into the center of the coil, and with a smaller diameter, gets hotter and dryer faster. there's a reason why super nanocoils always end up resting on cotton clouds or use outside wicking instead of having a wick through it. strangely, this build has managed to keep up, even with a fairly thick juice and chain vaping. Have had no dry hits yet, but i'm certain if i dropped the diameter, it'll happen. shrug.

    2) not sure if the insulator can take the heat. So my ideal vape, esp for NETs and desserts, is one that is very warm, very dense, ideally wet, and of course flavorful. size of clouds doesn't matter to me. With the double barrel, the throat hit is big, the vape is very warm, dense, flavorful, but it is also dry. I'm just hoping that i don't end up melting my insulators from running dual coils in a tiny chamber at 13 watts. Then again, I've heard folks running a 0.8 coil on a fresh battery in a mech, so it should be fine, right?

    3) Can anyone recommend a build that produces as warm a vape as this double barrel coil, maintain the density, yet also produces a nice moist vape like the chimney build? that would make me the happiest fella.



    Update: almost a day now, seems like the build has broken in. the throathit isn't as huge as it was, and I'm really really enjoying the vape. It's still a relatively dry vape though.

    Update: I think the next time I rewick and dry burn this fella, I'm gonna add an extra flat piece of wick that rests on the coils and runs down to the juice deck. that's traditionally helped to wetten the vapor, although I'm a tad sure that it'll cool down the vape, which is something I'm not looking forward to. will keep y'all posted :D

    Burping out loud using Tapatalk
  10. *** I guess this marks the start of me blogging here. I'm not one of those crazy cloud-chasing fellas with the ridiculous sub-ohms and crazy builds. I do, however, like many guys enjoy tinkering with small metallic parts. Decided I would just document some of my builds as I learn more stuff about vaping and what not. Who knows, someone might actually find this useful!

    ** Edit: Decided to add in more "commentaries" after some folks started asking me about different stages of the build. so here goes!
    -------

    Alright! Finished work early and here I am. Double 32ga twisted kanthal, 7 wraps, 1.3 ohms. vertical build.

    Build a simple microcoil the same way you usually would for a kayfun: make sure both leads are pointing in opposite directions. I almost always take the coil out, compress it with a tweezer and torch it so that it gets very nice and compressed. then slide the drill bit back in, and just plop the drill bit into the air hole as shown below:
    [​IMG]

    So there are different ways of doing it, but I personally highly HIGHLY recommend that the top lead goes onto the negative post screw (it's the smaller separate post) while the bottom lead goes to the positive post. The reason is simple: having the bottom lead at the native positive post (larger block) eliminates the possibility of a cross-pole short (happens when the leads from the negative post ends up touching the building deck (positive post). it's a BAD thing to happen, esp if you're using a mech.

    Once the leads are secured, the first thing I do is to lift the coil approx 1.3 mm above the airhole. this is usually the trickiest part of the entire build. After you're done securely the leads tightly, chances are the tension is gonna cause the coil to be tightly pressed down on the deck. I use my tinniest flat headscrew driver, wriggle it underneath and then lift it up. I got a bunch of people telling me that when they do that, the coil kinda "topples over" or kinda slants at an angle. That's normal, and it happens because of the tension from the top lead. Don't worry about it for now. (Just wanna add that I usually do this WITH the DRILLBIT inside still. This reduces the slanting, and makes it easier for me to just push the coil up) Please please make sure you do this step. Forgetting to do so will result in issues such as:
    1) varying resistance
    2) insanely long heat up time (because the metal positive block is conducting heat away from the coil)
    3) and even if you are patient enough to wait for the coil to get red hot, you should at this point realize that the atty base and the positive block is ridiculously hot. you WILL melt your positive post insulator (that square-ish piece).

    Next stage, you wanna check on the ohm meter just to make sure it isn't shorting. REMOVE YOUR DRILL BIT FIRST!!!!! failure to do so will cause either a wildly fluctuation resistance reading, or just straight short. You CAN damage your mods (especially mech mods) and batteries.

    Then pulse fire it red hot. At this stage, you wanna achieve/do 2 things:
    1) compress the coils with the tweezers. Keep doing it until there's no more hot spots, and it lights up evenly from center-out; typical microcoil stuff.
    2) Remember how I said don't worry about the slanted coil? Now when kanthal is red hot, is it extremely malleable. So while you're compressing the coils with your tweezer, use the time to also angle the coils back vertically again. It should end up looking nice and pretty like this:

    [​IMG]
    Note that this coil is pretty damn high off the positive deck. That's because in this case I'm using a kayfun black edition clone, which has an extended airhole. On my authentic kfl+ and r91, the top of this air hole (which is also the center post) sits flush with the positive post, so you won't have to lift it too high up.

    The single most impt thing: the coil must must must be aligned with the airhole. The best way to do it is to just wriggle your drill bit back through the coil, and use it to shift the coil to get it aligned. Remember, make sure that the drill bit goes all the way through the coil before shifting, or else you'll end up with a vertical coil that's kinda staggered and misaligned in the middle.
    [​IMG]


    My little secret to ensure success. A lot of people fail and say that the airflow is horrendous even after aligning the coil with the hole. That's because during the wicking stage, the cotton gets caught between the airhole and the bottom of the coil. Leave the drill bit in it while wicking, and you're guaranteed a clear air channel. The amount of wick is entirely up to you, but as you'll see at the end of this entry, I personally prefer a slightly fatter wick (seen below) because the flavor is ridiculously saturated and rich that way. In any case, pass the wick under the top leg (so that it sits between the negative post and the coil)
    [​IMG]

    wrap both ends of the wick around. this might be annoying, but to make it a heck lot easier, I wet the wick with juice, and it's easy peasy. I also use a screw driver to kinda just push the cotton and seat it between the coil and the positive post screw.
    [​IMG]

    snip off the ends of the cotton, leaving just enough for it to sit in a "L" shape on the deck. again, juice is your best friend. use it to get it to stick to the walls of the juice deck.
    [​IMG]


    Unfortunately, the nature of the build is such that the top leg is extra long because it has to come down to the screw. So that leads to a hot leg. Place a wick over (it reaches down to the deck on both side). Extra vapor!
    [​IMG]

    At this point, wickin is complete. check to make sure that the airflow is not obstructed (it really shouldnt be, as long as you've left the drill bit in while you were wicking)
    [​IMG]

    Remember, cotton takes time to break in. I like to test fire it for quite a bit, then assemble everything, and take multiple quick puffs to accelerate that process. vapor might be thin at the start, but once it gets going, the vapor is very, very good.
    [​IMG]


    And of course, the vape:

    [​IMG]

    Some stuff:
    1) throat hit: I learnt this from Rip Tripper. Now in his video he went ape-sh** on the throat hit and stuff. I might be building this wrong, but I thought throat hit was nothing special. Don't get me wrong: the throat hit is VERY good. but it isn't like a world of a difference from a solid microcoil. In fact, I get a waaaay harder throat hit from a triple-32ga microcoil.

    2) Vapor production: I mean, it's GOOD. Obviously you can't compare it to a sub-ohm RDA with enlarged airholes. But just look at the last picture. I don't sub-ohm or fancy build (not too much at least). That was 1.3 ohms, 4.1 V on my provari. that's all. The vapor production is very good by my standards. But then again, I'm not a cloud chase, so what do I know?

    3) Flavor: THIS. THIS. Interesting I've learnt about the vertical build is that less isn't always more. Unlike in normal microcoils where using too much cotton will choke the coil and lead to dry hits, there is absolutely nothing to get choked here.

    You can see here that the build got pretty fat and bulky at the end.
    Just from simple trial and error, I found that getting a fatter wick around the coil gives me a slight wetter and definitely way more saturated vapor. It's almost like im eating it. Very very flavorful. Wicking is also not at issue at all. I've got Boba's bounty on this sucker and she's working sweet. At this point, I've tried quite a lot of different builds (i'm a sucker for youtube and reddit reviews). But this. Build the way I like it with the fat saturated wick, the flavor is just too damned good. Nice, rich, super dense and just flavorful. definitely the biggest plus of this build.

    4) Just thought I would mention this: I see alot of people talk about failed chimney builds, and it's always one of the 2 things:

    a) airflow: like i mention in the step by step part, the KEY that I've learnt is just to leave the drill bit in. it solves everything. Also I recommend a 1/16 drill bit, because it fits perfectly snug (slightly loose sorry) in the airhole, so you're getting the most optimized coil inner diameter imo. In fact when you do this right, I guarantee you that your airflow is DEFINITELY gonna be looser than a horizontal coil. I mean, it makes sense. With a horizontal coil, your air flow is partially obstructed and has to flow around the coil. With the vertical coil, it's completely unobstructed.

    I'm also an engineer and my current specialty is in fluid and air flow, and I would LOVE to bore you to tears with explanation about laminar and turbulent and fully developed flow and all that jazz, but I'll spare y'all that. Point is, it works and there's no jazz to it. There's a reason for the ultra-smooth and thick vape.



    In any case, this has gotten too wordy. I hope this has been as helpful for you as it has been fun for me. If you have any question, feel free to PM. Heck, I'm not the best person with my chubby fingers, but feel free to PM me about some random build you see, and I'll do my best to replicate it and post a step-by-step guide like above. disclaimer though, I'm NOT a pro, and i most certainly don't think of myself as one. but hey, I love having a ton of mangled coils lying around on my work desk, so why not.

    cheers!





    Burping out loud using Tapatalk
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