TC coils simply work better when spaced. Spaced coils tend to wick better (I find) as the distance between the wraps manages the liquid flow better (in my opinion and experience)
Spaced coils are super easy:
1) Take your wire, wrap it tight around whatever tool you're using for the size (drill bit, jig, etc.) desired, be it 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 or 4 mm.
2) Pull it out like you're trying to undo a spring, just enough for it to be stretched out but that you can push it back on the tool.
3) Push it back together, the coil will be spaced. The "springiness" of the wire prevents it from being tight again, and the spacing between the wraps should be even all across.
It's a good thing to just "cook" any coil (heat it up just a bit without going red) when new and before you wick it is simply that it's going to burn off any residue oil or other coating it might have. You just press the button a few times and see some smoke coming from it... that's what you want.
Not only will this burn off any crap, but will harden the metal a bit so that it will keep it's shape better for the wicking. If you have a tester that has the "claws" to hold/test wires such as the Pilot, you can do this even before putting the coil on your deck.
Even with NI and TI you need to do this, but again, lowest heat possible (you must never make NI or TI go red), just enough to get the coil hot to burn this crap off. If you go with SS, then you don't have to worry as much about the dry heating thing but still, never go beyond the lowest glow possible.
Note for dual builds: both coils should be as identical as possible. I recommend that you figure out your ohm range, double it, and cut your wire's length accordingly, adding a bit of extra length (no more than a couple of cm (or an inch max) needed for the cuts later while the install on the deck, and then fold in two end up with two wires that are the same... and will be the ohm range that you're going for.
Checking for hot spots:
NI and TI:
SS and other metals that aren't a risk to dry-burn
After you've done all the steps to ensure that you don't have hot spots, time to wick it. (go see my entry about wicking)
Some people are rough with their wicking and don't realize that they just messed everything up and now have hot spots as they forced the wick in and ended up making the wraps touch be not be even. The can also end up with an empty spot where no wick is touching the coil.
So once you've done the wicking, prime that sucker well, saturate that wick to the point of it can't hold anymore liquid... then pulse it. As you pulse it, the heat will condition your cotton, make it swell a bit, and start the wicking process. this will allow you to adjust it is needed but also to test if your coils are good to go.
Making sure that your coil is very wet, as you pulse, you should be able to see the "boiling" on the coil. If done right, it should bubble from the whole coil and not just the center or a single area. You shouldn't have any spitting or popping (unless you're wattage is set way too high or your wicking has open spaces, which, in case you're wondering, start at a low wattage, 20W should be a good starting point, and if it's too slow, increase by 5W at a time)
When everything appears good, check your OHM reading, then close the tank up, making sure that the coil does not touch anything, neither the posts nor the bell. This is where having the wick pulled a bit up at the end of the coils is good as it creates both a reservoir and a padding between the coil and the bell.
Once the tank is closed, before anything, trigger for just a second to ensure
Let me know if I missed something, and please go read and enjoy all my other entries as I'm building my blog, I'm trying to cover every aspect of vaping that I know about. I'll keep adding items as I think of them and have the time to write them.
Spaced coils are super easy:
1) Take your wire, wrap it tight around whatever tool you're using for the size (drill bit, jig, etc.) desired, be it 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 or 4 mm.
2) Pull it out like you're trying to undo a spring, just enough for it to be stretched out but that you can push it back on the tool.
3) Push it back together, the coil will be spaced. The "springiness" of the wire prevents it from being tight again, and the spacing between the wraps should be even all across.
It's a good thing to just "cook" any coil (heat it up just a bit without going red) when new and before you wick it is simply that it's going to burn off any residue oil or other coating it might have. You just press the button a few times and see some smoke coming from it... that's what you want.
Not only will this burn off any crap, but will harden the metal a bit so that it will keep it's shape better for the wicking. If you have a tester that has the "claws" to hold/test wires such as the Pilot, you can do this even before putting the coil on your deck.
Even with NI and TI you need to do this, but again, lowest heat possible (you must never make NI or TI go red), just enough to get the coil hot to burn this crap off. If you go with SS, then you don't have to worry as much about the dry heating thing but still, never go beyond the lowest glow possible.
Note for dual builds: both coils should be as identical as possible. I recommend that you figure out your ohm range, double it, and cut your wire's length accordingly, adding a bit of extra length (no more than a couple of cm (or an inch max) needed for the cuts later while the install on the deck, and then fold in two end up with two wires that are the same... and will be the ohm range that you're going for.
Checking for hot spots:
NI and TI:
- do NOT glow them
- install them on your deck
- check the spacing between the wraps, you should be able to see any obvious location that the wraps aren't spaced well
- pulse them gently, but cover them in liquid gently, preferably pure VG if you have some as it's thicker and will hold in place better
- You should be able to see the liquid bubble up properly, it should be across the whole or most of the coil in a uniformed fashion and keep adding liquid to keep the coil cool so that it doesn't glow.
- if this appears to not be happening correctly, strum the coil (using a non-conductive tool) like a guitar string, or tug the side of the coil that may look too tight a bit.
- Repeat from #4 until things look good.
SS and other metals that aren't a risk to dry-burn
- Very simple, just a few pulses and look to see that the coil or both coils in a dual deck starts glowing a gentle red from the center. If you don't want to do the glow, then do it using the NI/TI method with the liquid.
- With a dual built, both coils should be in unison. If they aren't, ensure that the coil s spaced right, strum and tug the sides. Be aware that if your coil somehow ended up different number of wraps or such you will have to adjust the coils to match again.
- if this appears to not be happening correctly, strum the coil (using a non-conductive tool) like a guitar string, or tug the side of the coil that may look too tight a bit.
- Repeat from #4 until things look good.
After you've done all the steps to ensure that you don't have hot spots, time to wick it. (go see my entry about wicking)
Some people are rough with their wicking and don't realize that they just messed everything up and now have hot spots as they forced the wick in and ended up making the wraps touch be not be even. The can also end up with an empty spot where no wick is touching the coil.
So once you've done the wicking, prime that sucker well, saturate that wick to the point of it can't hold anymore liquid... then pulse it. As you pulse it, the heat will condition your cotton, make it swell a bit, and start the wicking process. this will allow you to adjust it is needed but also to test if your coils are good to go.
Making sure that your coil is very wet, as you pulse, you should be able to see the "boiling" on the coil. If done right, it should bubble from the whole coil and not just the center or a single area. You shouldn't have any spitting or popping (unless you're wattage is set way too high or your wicking has open spaces, which, in case you're wondering, start at a low wattage, 20W should be a good starting point, and if it's too slow, increase by 5W at a time)
When everything appears good, check your OHM reading, then close the tank up, making sure that the coil does not touch anything, neither the posts nor the bell. This is where having the wick pulled a bit up at the end of the coils is good as it creates both a reservoir and a padding between the coil and the bell.
Once the tank is closed, before anything, trigger for just a second to ensure
- you're not getting a message from the mod (if you do, then something is touching, possible pushing the coil crocked and messing the spacing/wraps, or the coil(s) is touching the sides of the bell)
- that the OHM reading is the same as before you closed it.
Let me know if I missed something, and please go read and enjoy all my other entries as I'm building my blog, I'm trying to cover every aspect of vaping that I know about. I'll keep adding items as I think of them and have the time to write them.
