Kanger Pro-Tank 2 Chemical Taste

[Intervap]

Pro-tank 2 came in the mail today and, by far, it beats out the iClear30s and Vivi Novas I own. Its already survived a 3 foot fall on hard wood floors (thank my dog).
But I keep getting this wretched chemical taste. It isn't consistent, sometimes I'll get an excellent vape. It is common enough for me to set it down until I can (hopefully) resolve this issue.
Things I've tried:

• Rinsed and soaked all the parts, excluding the atomizer, in hot water.
• Let it soak upright with a full tank for 2+ hours.
• Continue vaping, hoping the taste would go away.

This makes me think that its the atomizer. I don't know how to clean (or if I can) the atomizer.
I'm relatively new to vaping and brand new to Kanger and bottom fed clearomizers, so its probably something quite obvious.

 

[jcco]

With my PT1, I had a terrible taste until I washed with Dawn a couple times & of course a good rinse.
Then I rinsed it with PGA & let it air dry. No problems since.
Hope that helps. I never cleaned the atomizer/head.

 

[fred1sa]

I have rinsed the atmisers of protanks many times. Perhaps theres some oils from machining in them.
Just let them dry off properly before use.

 

[Unforeseen]

Moved to Assorted PV Topics - Clearomizers

 

[New2vaps]

I rinse the coils in hot water and then soak them over night in vodka. Next day I rinse them in hot water and let them dry out. That's my cleaning process for the coils. It works well.

 

[Intervap]

I washed everything with a little dawn and did a nice rinse of the atomizer. Took a hair dryer to the coil and wick because I'm way too impatient
Did a quick little dry burn, at low volts, and slapped it all together. After a nice soak, there is nothing but the sweet flavor of cafe mocha
Thanks for the information!

 

[Jimi D.]

I've taken apart to rebuild the protanks. The problem lies in the rubber 510 center pin grommet. The coil burns the rubber and omits fumes of rubber. Nasty taste I must say.

 

[dokebilee]

I've taken apart to rebuild the protanks. The problem lies in the rubber 510 center pin grommet. The coil burns the rubber and omits fumes of rubber. Nasty taste I must say.

This. I've stopped using the Protank 2 exactly for this reason. I got my Protank 2 a few days ago, rebuilt the coils since I didn't like the stock coils. After heavy vaping for a full day, you can see burn marks on the rubber piece, and I believe that is what I tasted from time to time while vaping. You could attach NR wires to the Resistance wire, like how it is on the stock coils, but the only reason I bought the Protank 2 was for the ease of rebuilding, and adding NR wires beats the purpose of it.

Their is a another solution that I haven't tried. You could bend the positive wire in half up to the coil and twist it to lower the resistance, which will cause it to get less hot. Same thing with the Negative wire.

 

[Intervap]

Awesome info. I've never done a rebuild but thought I might give it a shot on my protank.
I've been steadily vaping my protank all day and haven't once gotten the nasty taste again though! *knock on wood

 

[Jimi D.]

This. I've stopped using the Protank 2 exactly for this reason. I got my Protank 2 a few days ago, rebuilt the coils since I didn't like the stock coils. After heavy vaping for a full day, you can see burn marks on the rubber piece, and I believe that is what I tasted from time to time while vaping. You could attach NR wires to the Resistance wire, like how it is on the stock coils, but the only reason I bought the Protank 2 was for the ease of rebuilding, and adding NR wires beats the purpose of it.

Their is a another solution that I haven't tried. You could bend the positive wire in half up to the coil and twist it to lower the resistance, which will cause it to get less hot. Same thing with the Negative wire.

I was also thinking of silicone grommets working good.

 

[seeber]

This. I've stopped using the Protank 2 exactly for this reason. I got my Protank 2 a few days ago, rebuilt the coils since I didn't like the stock coils. After heavy vaping for a full day, you can see burn marks on the rubber piece, and I believe that is what I tasted from time to time while vaping. You could attach NR wires to the Resistance wire, like how it is on the stock coils, but the only reason I bought the Protank 2 was for the ease of rebuilding, and adding NR wires beats the purpose of it.

Their is a another solution that I haven't tried. You could bend the positive wire in half up to the coil and twist it to lower the resistance, which will cause it to get less hot. Same thing with the Negative wire.

Interesting. I think i may be getting the same bad taste. What about just removing that thing?

 

[Train2]

My PTanks too had a "metallic" taste.
I believe I've gotten rid of it, finally, by washing AGAIN, even though I'd been through several tanks, several coils, and several rinse-washes, by doing a very thorough HOT SOAPY SOAK and wash. I'm now convinced that a post in a different thread about this same topic was EXACTLY right - that the PTank comes with some kind of a machine oil coating that you have to get off.
And water alone won't do it!

There's also a noticeable performance difference in removing half the flavor wicking. There's just too much, and not enough juice can get to the coil until you take some out.

 

[roasted]

Is there a rubber grommett made of better heat resistant materials that might not cause the burning taste? I'm getting it too in my PT2... Think I'm about to hop back on my carto tank. I can't say I ever had any issues like that with my carto tank.

 

[nuggetz]

I been using a protank for a while now and I must have gotten used to the metallic taste. I had an old boge carto laying around and I loaded up a tank just for giggles and the flavor from the boge is much better but I like the TH that the PT gives as well as the draw. When switching back to the PT you can def taste the metallic undertones. This is on a PT thats been used for at least 3 months with new heads so its nothing in the tank itself that's causing it.

Has anyone pinned down where the metallic taste is actually coming from? Regardless, what I do to every protank head is give it a few dry burns and then use the sprayer attachment on my kitchen sink to shoot hot water into the coil. This gets rid of the dry hit flavor that sticks to the wick and inside of the coil chamber after doing a dry burn. I also remove that silicon piece that sits near the wick. I always get dry hits with that thing in place. Not sure why its there. I don't get any flooding without it unless I draw too hard on purpose when I'm attempting to make sure there's enough juice on the coils. I vape mosty 50/50 and never needed it. Must be for folks vaping 100% PG or something Once things start to taste funky again, I just repeat the process. I can probably do this about 3 times per head until I move onto a new one.

So far the PT gives me the best TH and vapor out of anything I've tried to date.

 

[ElectricalSocket]

On both of mine, the place where a noticeable amount of black came off was inside the drip tips. Clean that shiz out with a paper towel.

The rubber grommet has to stay. The volts may be too high if a stock head is burning the grommet, because Kanger uses the thickest silver NR wire I've seen. If you're re-coiling it, definitely consider making a micro-coil. Either on a syringe, drill bit, whatever. I was wanting to make a R/NR Wire Welder a few months back, but trying to learn electronics on top of e-cigs almost blew my mind.

I wrap 32ga kanthal on a syringe with 10 wraps. Throw cotton in it and it's beautiful. I did notice a small small scorch mark (like a dot) after re-building again, but I think that's from the few times I tried 5v with a 3ohm coil. 3.7-4 is perfect with this setup.

Keep in mind this is coming from someone totally OCD about not inhaling any glue, burning rubber, etc. I was skeptical at first, but this actually works and doesn't burn it (I checked it again after another rebuild and all was well when keeping it at 1v higher than the ohms max).

 

[caged]

I've seen no burnt marks with any of the heads I've used on the Pro Tank II. I do recommend washing with soap and water if the taste is bad (not just soaking -- make sure you wipe the insides with soap). I also flip the rubber gasket that sits above the wicks upside down.

 

[corsairhawkvap3]

Seems like a lot of people are having problems with the "hot legs" burning the rubber grommet. The way i fixed my problems with rubber burning was to clip off the end piece of the rubber grommet that goes into the atty and twist the legs and make sure your ohms as least 2.0 ohm or higher.

If your rebuilding a PT2 head or PT(same thing) and your making a lower ohm coil, your chances of burning the rubber grommet is higher.

 

[djeleveneleven]

Seems like a lot of people are having problems with the "hot legs" burning the rubber grommet. The way i fixed my problems with rubber burning was to clip off the end piece of the rubber grommet that goes into the atty and twist the legs and make sure your ohms as least 2.0 ohm or higher.

If your rebuilding a PT2 head or PT(same thing) and your making a lower ohm coil, your chances of burning the rubber grommet is higher.

where do you clip off the end piece and twist the legs? can you possibly send a pic?

 

[Romindog]

I've seen no burnt marks with any of the heads I've used on the Pro Tank II. I do recommend washing with soap and water if the taste is bad (not just soaking -- make sure you wipe the insides with soap). I also flip the rubber gasket that sits above the wicks upside down.

PERFECT! I bought 4 Protank II with my new Provari. I have four go to juices and all were fine except the tank I put Tribeca in. Got the burnt rubber thing and it never went away. Flipped the rubber gasket and gave the tank a good clean. No more rubber taste!!!!