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I don't have a clue, as I don't own a Kick. 15 watts seems pretty high, considering I'm generally between 7 - 8 watts with high resistance coils on a regulated mod. Could the problem be that the Kick's protective circuitry is kicking in when the batteries drop to 3.6 voltage remaining?
What resistance is your heating coil and with what juice delivery device? Knowing you, I'm confident you are using the proper high quality batteries, but for the record, which ones are you using? IMR high amp capacity?
What resistance is your heating coil and with what juice delivery device? Knowing you, I'm confident you are using the proper high quality batteries, but for the record, which ones are you using? IMR high amp capacity?
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the only thing i can think of is the K2 has a 2.7v loaded cutoff who knows what kind of draw or dip 15W is at 3.6.
have you actually tried it on the same batteries with a lower wattage? say 10-11?
have you actually tried it on the same batteries with a lower wattage? say 10-11?
I thought the Kick had a safety cut-off @3.5v (loaded). If so, that'd be right with the unloaded voltage you're reading. It's better than when I ran a Kick and the battery was reading 3.7, but the Kick wouldn't fire a SR coil.
I always find it best to go to the source. Pretty sure Evolv will be glad to answer any questions and help you sort any issues with your Kick 2.
Can you let us know what the resistance is? I know it adjusts itself, but any lower than .5 is going to affect the voltage. The kick 2 has been made to handle more than the original, but you may be pushing things to it limit and the Kick is just trying to save itself and the battery from maybe venting?
I hope that someone comes in and can figure it out who is versed in OHMs law vs, voltage wattage equations.
Output Power:
5 Watts to 15 Watts
Output Voltage: 2 Volts to 6.3 Volts
Output Current: 6 Amps
atomizer resistances: 0.5 Ohms to 3.3 Ohms
low battery cutoff: 2.7 Volts loaded
I hope that someone comes in and can figure it out who is versed in OHMs law vs, voltage wattage equations.
Output Power:
5 Watts to 15 Watts
Output Voltage: 2 Volts to 6.3 Volts
Output Current: 6 Amps
atomizer resistances: 0.5 Ohms to 3.3 Ohms
low battery cutoff: 2.7 Volts loaded
Hay its Stevo on ecf! ;-) I have one got it yesterday but have not played with it much yet to know what its dose and docent do.
3.6 volts? That's when you should be changing it anyway
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
Ok, I'm running 1Ω dual coil (x2 @ 2Ω each).
You might change a battery at 3.6v on a unregulated mech, the kick has a step up transformer that puts out the set wattage until your battery drops to 2.6v then refuses to fire. Same vape from start to finish.
I will have to head over to evol's site tomorrow and re-read the specs, 3.6v under load is no bueno. I am changing out batteries twoce as often as when I ran 1Ω single coil.
Thanks for the input. I do have a second one I'll have to compare notes.
You might change a battery at 3.6v on a unregulated mech, the kick has a step up transformer that puts out the set wattage until your battery drops to 2.6v then refuses to fire. Same vape from start to finish.
I will have to head over to evol's site tomorrow and re-read the specs, 3.6v under load is no bueno. I am changing out batteries twoce as often as when I ran 1Ω single coil.
Thanks for the input. I do have a second one I'll have to compare notes.
2.6v Is to low anyway, shortens lifespan of the battery and can leave the battery unstable. I change out at 3.6 on all of my devices, provari included
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
Could you let us know what you hear back from Evolv? Thank you sir.
I'll let y'all know what evolv says.
FYI, On a pure mechanical (no kick) I change my batteries out when the flavor/vapor tells me to, which is consistently in the 3.5 - 3.6v range. Same atty, same coil, add the kick 2 and I am forced to change batteries literally twice as often. No love.
I don't mind running my batteries down to 2.7 loaded which would be about 3v static for my rig. That's a safety margin for the 2.5v low limit of the battery. I buy Efest IMRs in enough quantity that if using them the way the manufacturer engineered them to causes a shorter life span then so be it. I understand people unnecessarily charging them up early. But on the particular ones that I own, I want the option to use them as intended and get more life per charge.
I'm getting miffed at taking a "depleted" battery out of my mod, sticking it on the i4 and getting 2 bars right away and the 3rd one popping up within minutes.
FYI, On a pure mechanical (no kick) I change my batteries out when the flavor/vapor tells me to, which is consistently in the 3.5 - 3.6v range. Same atty, same coil, add the kick 2 and I am forced to change batteries literally twice as often. No love.
I don't mind running my batteries down to 2.7 loaded which would be about 3v static for my rig. That's a safety margin for the 2.5v low limit of the battery. I buy Efest IMRs in enough quantity that if using them the way the manufacturer engineered them to causes a shorter life span then so be it. I understand people unnecessarily charging them up early. But on the particular ones that I own, I want the option to use them as intended and get more life per charge.
I'm getting miffed at taking a "depleted" battery out of my mod, sticking it on the i4 and getting 2 bars right away and the 3rd one popping up within minutes.
what mech are you running your kick in? and if you have tons of batteries why does it matter if you have to swap them out .1v earlier lol
I don't want to carry 4 batteries with me when I leave the house.
6-7 batteries per day instead of less than 2... hmmmm
Maybe you don't understand my gripe. The kick is supposed to extend the battery not shorten it. I.E. I got better performance without the kick...
i just dont get what your saying, you told me you used to switch batteries between 3.5-3.6v, and now its a problem that you have to switch out at 3.6?
Battery without the kick would last 1/2 day
Battery with the kick last MAYBE 2 hours.
Both get changed at relatively the same voltage.
Battery with kick must be changed out much more often, not because I run a battery in a mech down further, the kick just sucks down voltage and cuts off early.
The kick is capable uf bumping the voltage up to 6 volts in order to keep my wattage set point steady from the start to the end of the battery, when the battery hits 2.7v (still capable of putting out 6v) it's supposed to cut off so you don't over drain the battery.
I don't mean to get into a brand loyalty thing here, but I'll just relate my personal experience for what it's worth.
For 14 months, ever since I had a Trustfire protected battery vent violently, I've used nothing but AW IMR's in all of my mods. 14500, 18350, 18490, and 18650. Mostly charged on a Pila, but also on a Nitecore Intellicharger i4 and an Xtar MP charger recently. Very happy with them all; they provide the battery times the mAh ratings claim. I even have a couple of AW IMR 18650 batteries that are 14 months old and still nearly good as new. (For the record, I use Ikenvape 2.5 - 3.0 ohm cartomizers in my cartotanks mostly on a Mini Provari.)
I got my daughter an AltSmoke BB setup for her birthday back in June, and when ordering batteries for some reason I decided to get a couple of Efest 14500 and 18350 IMR to try. I put the 18350 Efests in with my AW 18350 rotation. For the first couple of weeks I couldn't tell the difference. But then I was noticing shorter battery time, by a couple of hours.
My daughter had noticed the same thing with her 14500 Efests. She said she was only getting 3 - 4 hours with them, when she had gotten 6 - 7 hours when they were brand new. For the record, she has a Nitecore Intellicharger i2 and is using Innokin iClear 30 2.0 ohm dual coil clearomizers on two BB's.
Now, if it was just the one size battery getting these results, I could rationalize that maybe they were from a "bad batch". But this was with two sizes of batteries with the same results. Take from this story what you like. All I know is that both my daughter and myself took the Efests out of our battery rotation and have gone back to using AW IMR's exclusively.
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so you mean to say regulating power on a dual coil setup drains batteries faster than unregulated on a single coil setup? who would have guessed
I don't know how else to say it. The cut off shouldn't hit at 3.6v in well under 2 hours of vaping, it should hit at 2.6v. If I slap the same battery in my VW mod on 15w with a 1.2Ω dual coil, it lasts 3/4 of the day. Put it in with the kick2 and it lasts an hour and a half.
What size batteries are you using?
Depending on the VW mod you might not be getting a full 15W. Also note that the kick or any boost regulator will not give you more battery life, for the same starting wattage they will shorten it vs a mech.
Depending on the VW mod you might not be getting a full 15W. Also note that the kick or any boost regulator will not give you more battery life, for the same starting wattage they will shorten it vs a mech.
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