So first, the thing was getting super dry hits. Tried removing one flavor wick. Then so gurgly I could,t vape it. So I bought a new wick. Same exact situation. Now I tried putting the wicks back to normal (2 flavor wicks) and still gurgling. what gives? I'm at 6 volts too... and when it works, the draw is airy so its not too tight on there.
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What resistance head are you using?
What mix is your juice?
6v is alotta power, would expect dry hits unless you've got some custom coil build.
What mix is your juice?
6v is alotta power, would expect dry hits unless you've got some custom coil build.
I have hardly EVER gone past 4.2v on ANY stock coil. 6v sounds like "it tastes like burning" to me. Plus, popped coils.
It is at 6 volts after I removed the flavor wicks. 50/50 juice. Stock coil I was at 3.8 to 4 V
And the heads resistance is?
Ill say it again, 6v is alotta juice.
credit to Baditude for above chart.
The voltage is determined by the battery and (if applicable) the mods settings. Removing flavor wicks doesn't affect voltage. Have you tried running it at 3.5-4v with the flavor wicks intact?
Don't remove the flavor wicks.
They're there for a reason, and you're currently experiencing why.
I swear, when I meet Phil Busardo, he's getting whipped upside his wobbly head for ever suggesting that it's a good idea.
If anything, add to them.
Did I mention thst they're there for a reason?
They're there for a reason, and you're currently experiencing why.
I swear, when I meet Phil Busardo, he's getting whipped upside his wobbly head for ever suggesting that it's a good idea.
If anything, add to them.
Did I mention thst they're there for a reason?
I agree you shouldnt remove the flavor wick. Also 6v is too much for that tank I stay in the 3.2 to 4.2 range
Yea I think I was getting the problem because the juice was actually 70 VG. Since uncle Junks doesn't write it on the bottle, for some reason I was under the impression it was 50/50. I'm going to pick up a new head and juice and see how it goes.
I rebuild my coils in the 1.8-2.0 ohm range and hardly ever go over 3.8 volts. Most of the time I'm at 3.3-3.4V depending on the juice. As far as flooding the Pro Tank II goes, the only time it's happened is when I was stingy with the wick. To much wick and you can choke off the juice and get dry hits quit often, so there is somewhat a fine line there.
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I remove the flavor wicks from every single coil I buy if I'm in a pinch and need to buy them (1.5, 1.8 and 2.0's). They do nothing for me and I was using 50/50, switched to 60/40 and still took them out. The tube that locks down over the wick(s) is a snug fit and one wick is really all that's needed.
Both PBusardo and Nick (GrimmGreen) even suggested removing them; I see why. For one, in the few I've not modified, the flavor wicks do tend to burn up because they can't hold much juice. The silica is just too thin, but any thicker and it'd clog and little air flow would be able to pass in to assist the wicking.
That said, I've found silica in general to be problematic, which is why I moved to cotton. It wicks better, and while I can't dry burn it, it's so cheap, you could burn 50 wicks a day and still have plenty of cotton to make more for days or weeks
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Both PBusardo and Nick (GrimmGreen) even suggested removing them; I see why. For one, in the few I've not modified, the flavor wicks do tend to burn up because they can't hold much juice. The silica is just too thin, but any thicker and it'd clog and little air flow would be able to pass in to assist the wicking.
That said, I've found silica in general to be problematic, which is why I moved to cotton. It wicks better, and while I can't dry burn it, it's so cheap, you could burn 50 wicks a day and still have plenty of cotton to make more for days or weeks
.That said, I've found silica in general to be problematic, which is why I moved to cotton. It wicks better, and while I can't dry burn it, it's so cheap, you could burn 50 wicks a day and still have plenty of cotton to make more for days or weeks
+1
I use Peaches n Cream 100% cotton yarn from Walmart. It has 4 strands but using only 3 have worked perfect for me. And the flavor seems to be a lot better than silica as well. When needed, I can change the cotton wick as/almost as fast as rinsing silica wick and dry burning.
He mentioned he removed them because he was using Boba's Bounty, and also said to try it first with them all in there and remove if you need to. If you see Boba's in real life you'd know why, this stuff is thick. Just loaded some up in mine so we'll see how that goes. Was experiencing the same gurgling/flooding using a 50/50 mix with 1 flavor wick removed.
I agree to leave the heads alone using anything that is not super thick. If you're going to be hitting it like a freight train just do some dry pulls to let the wicking keep up. I've noticed for me it sometimes can't keep up with chain vaping on a 50/50 mix.
Would a couple drops of distilled water to cut the thickness of Boba's help in not gunking the coils up so bad without affecting the taste?
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I'm vaping a protank mini II, with 1 flavor wick instead of 2. I dry burn the coil (2.5ohm) nightly. I had some issues with gurgling and flooding this evening. I just took it apart, and did a thorough cleaning, with special attention to the seals. It's vaping like new again. I don't know if this would apply to a full size protank. Just my 
Also: The single flavor wick hasn't been an issue for me at 100%PG, 80%PG/20% VG, or 100%VG (Boba). Bonus, I can save half of my flavor wicks as backups.
Also: The single flavor wick hasn't been an issue for me at 100%PG, 80%PG/20% VG, or 100%VG (Boba). Bonus, I can save half of my flavor wicks as backups.
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I remember watching that vid, asking myself why is he telling ppl to remove a wick.
The stock protank is just fine as is, so if something isn't broken don't try to fix it.
3.8 v for 1.8 ohm and 4.2 v for 2.2 or 5 - 5.5 w is high enough
I recently put a new head in my Protank and when I got about half way through a tank it started to leak and gurgle. The glass tank was loose and could spin around so I thought maybe air was getting in through the top section and that a partial vacuum is needed to keep it from leaking so I sealed around the joint with silicone sealant.
No change so I pulled the head and there was only 1 flavor wick in it so I added some more silica from a dead clearomizer, it looks like a rats nest but it's working fine now. The Protank I have is the version 1 or is it the 1.5 anyway it's the version that has the bridge across the bottom section to hold the tube in place.
I should mention that I have had to remove wicks from other heads in order to make them work without giving dry hits or burnt taste so I was surprised that I actually had to add a wick. IMO PBussardo is correct in saying to try it without removing any wicks first and if it works good leave it, if you get dry hit or burnt taste try removing a flavor wick.
No change so I pulled the head and there was only 1 flavor wick in it so I added some more silica from a dead clearomizer, it looks like a rats nest but it's working fine now. The Protank I have is the version 1 or is it the 1.5 anyway it's the version that has the bridge across the bottom section to hold the tube in place.
I should mention that I have had to remove wicks from other heads in order to make them work without giving dry hits or burnt taste so I was surprised that I actually had to add a wick. IMO PBussardo is correct in saying to try it without removing any wicks first and if it works good leave it, if you get dry hit or burnt taste try removing a flavor wick.
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I have a Protank 2 full of Boba's and an Evod full of Gorilla Juice right now. Both BCC's have cotton flavor wicks that are about 20-30% thicker than the stock wicks that came on the coils.
All of my DIY liquids are 100% VG, and my go-to store bought liquids are from Johnson Creek's Red Oak line, which have zero PG but do include distilled water.
All of my delivery systems are bottom coil and include Evods, Protanks, MT3S, SmokTech Aro's and Kamry X10's. No problems at all. No Vivi Novas, No CE*'s and no cartos and no cartotanks.
Most of the time, genuine Kanger Evods, MT3S and Protanks with genuine Kanger coil heads work great right out of the box and don't need tinkering with. However, some variation in manufacturing might result in someone getting a coil head with a misaligned coil/wick assembly, or poorly placed or insufficient wicks. Those might need seeing to.
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