Wire for RDA question.

[StarsAndBars]

Hey guys! I'm completely out of 32 gauge kanthal, and the last coil build has definitely passed its prime. I've been doing single micro coils around 1.8-2.2 ohms lately with cotton wick and so far have been pretty happy. Since I'll be buying some new wire I'm kinda curious if there may be a better option for the 3 amp limit with an MVP.

I've watched .... loads of videos, and spent about a half hour reading threads with everything from ribbon wire to twisted 28 gauge kanthal, and since I'm limited to 3 amps, I guess I'm kinda looking for the best vape that can be achieved within the three amp limit.

Anybody using twisted wire? If so, would this have the same effect as running dual coil (ohmwise)? Everything I've watched and read leads me to the conclusion that twisted wire would equal a crazy low resistance. If anyone wouldn't mind telling me about your setup and what reasons you have for preferring it I would very much appreciate it. As mentioned, I kinda have to stay below the 3 amp limit.

Thanks

 

[Lessifer]

When I build micros for my VAMO, I use 30g K. I can get a 9 wrap 1/16" micro at 1.8 ohms, which will leave you plenty of room to go up to 5.4v if you felt like it, though that's too hot for my taste.

 

[SissySpike]

The thicker the wire the more resistance. Do you get your wire from ebay? for less than 10$ per 100 ft role you can afford to get several gauges.

 

[StarsAndBars]

The thicker the wire the more resistance. Do you get your wire from ebay? for less than 10$ per 100 ft role you can afford to get several gauges.

Actually, the thicker the wire, the less resistance. I am kinda leaning toward just getting some 30 gauge and sticking with single micro coils. I will be buying it from a store front (yeah getting my head busted) for like 3 bucks for 10 feet. I'm in what you may call an unusual USPS situation for the next 2 months.

I'm relatively new to building my own coils, and not really chasing clouds or anything. I just want a good quality vape, and was wondering if anyone has been using something superior to what I'm thinking about getting.

Been vaping for a long time, and never stop learning about it all.

 

[degnr8]

Depends on what you're after. I started with 32 then tried 30 and am going back to the 32. For the same resistance a thicker wire will heat up quicker and produce more vapor because of the greater surface area, but won't get as hot.

 

[StarsAndBars]

Not sure how to quantify this but I'm just looking for the best vape all around. I'm a pretty average dude, so I just want the best flavor, TH, and vapor production I can squeeze with a 3 amp limit. Not looking for cumulonimbus clouds of vapor, maybe decent stratus.

 

[patrao_n]

Which rda are you using? Also have you drilled any airholes to make them larger? On my igo l I have drilled my airholes to a 1/16. Also my micro coil is made from 28 gauge kanthal at 1.5- 2.0 ohms. Depending on which one I am using at the time. Throat hit is there let me tell you. Also by moving the coil up or down in correlation to the airhole can increase or decrase the th. I make sure to have my coil right up next to the hole though. Dead center too to have a balance of th and flavor.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[JMarca]

Thicker wire equals less resistance, though wire diameter isn't everything.

The overall diameter of the coil, the amount of wraps these are all variables that come into play. You can easily "lock" in your preferred resistance if you just pick out whatever wire (gauge doesn't matter here, just length) you want to use then cut the wire to spec using a multimeter. If you need more length to reach terminals or something you can tether the resistance with some non-resistance and you should get a near perfect resistance everytime. I use silica based RTAs everyday so I'm quite used to this, but in a RDA you shouldn't need to tether anything just cut your coil to spec do the wraps and leave 2 legs at the end perfect everytime.

 

[bones1274]

The thicker the wire the more resistance. Do you get your wire from ebay? for less than 10$ per 100 ft role you can afford to get several gauges.

Here is another great place to get wire. 100' for $5.50 with free shipping.

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com...r=1&t1=kanthal+30+gauge&submit.x=0&submit.y=0

 

[StarsAndBars]

Thanks for all of the resources for cheap wire guys, but as I said ordering off line is not an option for me. I've already had a juice order, an a Jwrap order returned to the vendor, and had to have them shipped to my house in Colorado (currently 7 hours away). I don't get to go there very often, so having vape mail is a thing of the past for the next couple of months. Not really looking where to get supplies, as there is a vapor store here in Salt Lake, just looking for suggestions on what type of wire everyone is using, and why.

I guess I should have explained that for some reason USPS does not deliver packages to the Hollywood Resort (only not) apartment where I am currently staying. Not sure why, but I called them and couldn't get a straight answer.

 

[Lessifer]

I'll chime in again with my personal preferences. I like 30g for vv, because you never really have to worry about it being too low resistance, and if you want it warmer you just crank up the voltage. I like 28g for mechs because the way I wrap micros, 28g will get me between .8-1ohm, which is where I want to stay for now. 28g is easier to wrap with than 30g, and 30g is much easier to work with than 32g, 32g is just too flimsy and springy. You could always split the difference and get 29g if it's available where you shop.

 

[StarsAndBars]

I'll chime in again with my personal preferences. I like 30g for vv, because you never really have to worry about it being too low resistance, and if you want it warmer you just crank up the voltage. I like 28g for mechs because the way I wrap micros, 28g will get me between .8-1ohm, which is where I want to stay for now. 28g is easier to wrap with than 30g, and 30g is much easier to work with than 32g, 32g is just too flimsy and springy. You could always split the difference and get 29g if it's available where you shop.

You've kinda got me leaning toward 30 gauge. I've been doing micros with 32 gauge 6/7 wraps simply because it's all I had. Hoping someone that has used ribbon wire would post. Then again I'm a simple man, so will most likely be fine using 30 gauge.

 

[Lessifer]

You've kinda got me leaning toward 30 gauge. I've been doing micros with 32 gauge 6/7 wraps simply because it's all I had. Hoping someone that has used ribbon wire would post. Then again I'm a simple man, so will most likely be fine using 30 gauge.

If you've been doing 32g 6/7 micros, you'll have no problem building a 30g 8/9 micro which will get you about the same resistance, but should be noticeably more flavorful, with quite a bit more vapor.

I've used 28g to build micros to use on vv and I always had to add longer legs or more wraps to get the resistance high enough to fire on the VAMO, and it would take longer to heat up than the 30g. I've been thinking about ordering some 29g, but I've been using my mechs more often now and 29g would probably add more resistance than I want.

 

[90quattrocoupe]

It is tougher to use anything smaller than 28 kanthal when doing a micro coil. It can be done just harder. It is easier to do with larger wire, because the wire is stiffer.

For a 1.8 ohm micro coil, I do a 10 wrap 28 Kanthal on a 14 gauge blunt needle which is 2mm. Comes out right about 1.8. 1.5ohm is about a 9 wrap on 2mm.

I use the 9 wrap 1.5ohms on my Russian 91% and on my dual micro coil Patriot. Steps you take:

I burned the wire, to take some of the tension out of it..
Wrapped it around the needle, crunching everything together, as best I could. I did a 9 wrap
Bent the ends of the wire going to the post, and inserted one coil, with the coil still on the needle. With the coil still on the needle, it is easier to work with.
I used my mech to heat the coil, then squeezing the coil, just after I released the power button, with a pair of tweezers.
I also made sure it was burning right and heating up from the inside out.
I tested it and it was 1.5ohms, so I knew this would give me about .75ohms on a dual.
Repeated above for the second coil.
Used the mech to heat up and squeeze the second coil.
Then I watched to make sure each coil was heating up about the same time. I had to shorten the legs on the one that was lagging a little behind.

Tested it on the ohm meter, and a nice .74ohms. Just where I wanted it.

Greg W.

 

[degnr8]

Thicker wire equals less resistance, though wire diameter isn't everything.

The overall diameter of the coil, the amount of wraps these are all variables that come into play. You can easily "lock" in your preferred resistance if you just pick out whatever wire (gauge doesn't matter here, just length) you want to use then cut the wire to spec using a multimeter. If you need more length to reach terminals or something you can tether the resistance with some non-resistance and you should get a near perfect resistance everytime. I use silica based RTAs everyday so I'm quite used to this, but in a RDA you shouldn't need to tether anything just cut your coil to spec do the wraps and leave 2 legs at the end perfect everytime.

Like this idea. This will finally make it possible to take a rebuilding kit on the go without having to carry around a giant meter.

 

[StarsAndBars]

It is tougher to use anything smaller than 28 kanthal when doing a micro coil. It can be done just harder. It is easier to do with larger wire, because the wire is stiffer.

For a 1.8 ohm micro coil, I do a 10 wrap 28 Kanthal on a 14 gauge blunt needle which is 2mm. Comes out right about 1.8. 1.5ohm is about a 9 wrap on 2mm.

I use the 9 wrap 1.5ohms on my Russian 91% and on my dual micro coil Patriot. Steps you take:

I burned the wire, to take some of the tension out of it..
Wrapped it around the needle, crunching everything together, as best I could. I did a 9 wrap
Bent the ends of the wire going to the post, and inserted one coil, with the coil still on the needle. With the coil still on the needle, it is easier to work with.
I used my mech to heat the coil, then squeezing the coil, just after I released the power button, with a pair of tweezers.
I also made sure it was burning right and heating up from the inside out.
I tested it and it was 1.5ohms, so I knew this would give me about .75ohms on a dual.
Repeated above for the second coil.
Used the mech to heat up and squeeze the second coil.
Then I watched to make sure each coil was heating up about the same time. I had to shorten the legs on the one that was lagging a little behind.

Tested it on the ohm meter, and a nice .74ohms. Just where I wanted it.

Greg W.

View attachment 266390

Very nice dude. Does it wick ok?