Brand New Protank II Rusting

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Born2Hula

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I purchased a new Protank II last week after my first cleaning noticed rust at the top of the airflow tube where it permanently meets the crossbar.
The tank came in the Kangertech box.

The juice used in it was Epic's Banilla.
I cleaned it using only hot water, dried it with paper towels and set it on the counter overnight. By morning, I noticed there was rust, though I could not tell you if it had always been there.

Of note, I'm somewhat meticulous by nature and it wasn't exposed to anything except what I write here. The rust is not to be confused with gunk, as it is most certainly rust after close inspection with a magnifier.

Since that cleaning, I've used Vodka (high quality) to clean following advice on another thread.

Now my questions...

Have you seen this happen before?

Can you point me to a glass tank (or is it atty?) that can be relied upon?

I'm still learning and while I'm stowing away bits and pieces of information on cartos, I don't think I'm quite there yet (unless you can prove otherwise to me how easy it might be). Thus, do you know a good thread you could point to that discusses them for new users?
 

Born2Hula

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Sorry for the crappy picture.

IMG_20131029_211731.jpg
 

Vapoor eyes er

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I purchased a new Protank II last week after my first cleaning noticed rust at the top of the airflow tube where it permanently meets the crossbar.
The tank came in the Kangertech box.

The juice used in it was Epic's Banilla.
I cleaned it using only hot water, dried it with paper towels and set it on the counter overnight. By morning, I noticed there was rust, though I could not tell you if it had always been there.

Of note, I'm somewhat meticulous by nature and it wasn't exposed to anything except what I write here. The rust is not to be confused with gunk, as it is most certainly rust after close inspection with a magnifier.

Since that cleaning, I've used Vodka (high quality) to clean following advice on another thread.

Now my questions...

Have you seen this happen before?

Can you point me to a glass tank (or is it atty?) that can be relied upon?

I'm still learning and while I'm stowing away bits and pieces of information on cartos, I don't think I'm quite there yet (unless you can prove otherwise to me how easy it might be). Thus, do you know a good thread you could point to that discusses them for new users?

I posted this link in the other thread but I guess you kissed it. It may be rust. If the coil is Kanthal then it's 70- 75% iron which does rust. If it's Nichrome shouldn't be any rust.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo.../320042-resistance-wire-kanthal-nichrome.html
 

dePeatrick

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Born2Hula

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fabricator4

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Sorry I missed your post. :blush: How might I tell if it is Kanthal? I feel the tank is trashed at this point and don't want to see this happen again. Any suggestions?

Even if it were rust marks from corroding Kanthal it is not "trashed". Iron oxide is not toxic or harmful in any way. (Your red blood cells are largely iron oxide)

Try soaking it in Coca Cola and scrubbing it with your toothbrush again - that should remove any rust marks.

ETA: The only way I can see Kanthal rusting is if you use a very acid juice and leave it to dry out for an extended period of time.
 
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Scarey

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Sorry I missed your post. :blush: How might I tell if it is Kanthal? I feel the tank is trashed at this point and don't want to see this happen again. Any suggestions?

Kanthal is what your coil is made of. I think the person who made that post was confused. Back to the topic: There is a copper layer in the metal. I'm pretty sure you're seeing a bit where it's exposed, and thinking it's rust.
 

GoodNews!

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Honestly, I've noticed odd colorations on mine and I'm getting odd tastes out of it. Yours and mine may be some sort of clone - boxes aren't hard to replicate. If you're concerned, you may want to look into a Vision Aurora Bottom Feeder - it's a slight ever bit more of a hassle to vape out of than a Protank (but you don't have to rebuild or anything) and instead of a tank, it uses a little plastic bottle that you can squeeze the juice up into a dripping atty, which are disposable (but last a long time and are said to work 10x better than a head), or you can also use a Nova head I believe (the device comes with a tube adaptor to allow it to use heads as well as atomizers) and you can throw the little plastic bottle away whenever you feel it's old and get a new one for probably a couple bucks. Most of the non-disposable parts of the device never come in contact with juice. Much easier to clean.

The only catch is you have to slightly pinch the plastic bottle (which is the "tank") every 3-5 puffs (some say every 5-7), but this allows for more control over wicking, giving you a better performance as well. It's virtually a squeeze-bottle tank, but works in generally the same way a pyrex tank does, with just a little annoyance. But for me, it's all about what's safe and performs well. I hear great things about them. About $25.

The only thing I have to do research on is just how safe it truly is to use juice in the specific plastic bottle they use - I have seen extreme etching on plastic bottles used to store juice - and I don't want any corrostion or chemicals seeping into the juice!
 
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