Terrible kit experience

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This is my first post! But anyways, I recently just bought a new setup from a local vape shop here in Knoxville. I got the Vamo v3 with the Kanger Protank 2. The vamo 510 threading is terrible, period. My cartos and tanks wouldnt screw in properly or even screw in at all. Took it back and got a new one and it's doing it also. And now my pro tank is gurgling and leaking in the mouthpiece terribly, but only when half full. If it's full it works fine. Which is rediculous. I love Knoxville vapor and they are great people and I'm not blaming them at all.
 
Can't help with the vamo, don't have one. But the protank, probably just needs a good clean and dry burn.

Its brand new. Did it as soon as I opened the box and filled it up. Googled stuff about it, and that's where I learned to keep it full. But who wants to walk around with a bottle of liquid on them? That's the point of the tank.
 

fabricator4

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Its brand new. Did it as soon as I opened the box and filled it up. Googled stuff about it, and that's where I learned to keep it full. But who wants to walk around with a bottle of liquid on them? That's the point of the tank.

Then the head is faulty. Just swap the head head out and it should be fine. If you want to pull the faulty head apart and re-arrange the flavour wicks it will probably fix the problem. There should be four little flavour wicks in there.

Make sure you have spares for the heads. I recommend 2.2 ohm heads and run them at 6 - 6.5 watts as per the Kanger instruction card that came with the Protank.

ETA: I see you say you've changed the head already. Is this an original protank with "Kangertech mini Protank II" etched on bottom chromed ring? Original heads?
 
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Then the head is faulty. Just swap the head head out and it should be fine. If you want to pull the faulty head apart and re-arrange the flavour wicks it will probably fix the problem. There should be four little flavour wicks in there.

Make sure you have spares for the heads. I recommend 2.2 ohm heads and run them at 6 - 6.5 watts as per the Kanger instruction card that came with the Protank.
Read my post above ^ we replied at the same time. It's not the head cause ive replaced it. And I'm no where experienced enough yet to be taking the heads apart yet.
 

fabricator4

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Read my post above ^ we replied at the same time. It's not the head cause ive replaced it. And I'm no where experienced enough yet to be taking the heads apart yet.

It's not difficult, just remove the rubber cap, hold the head in a clean cloth and snap the top chimney part off the bottom part where the wicks are. Use tweazers to separate the the four flavour wicks and pop them back in there. The wicks need to be fluffed up enough to seal any gaps that juice leaks through. Unusual to get two dud heads in a row but not out of the question. I reckon about 1 in 4 factory heads are questionable no matter what manufacturer. There's also other factors - if the juice is very thin - almost watery then it might cause a flooding problem. Higher temperatures will also make the juice more watery. Higher VG juices are thicker.

I think the coils have to be made by hand, so there's always the human factor involved.

Yes, it's always advisable to boil new heads before you use them. ;-)
 
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cromagnon

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Dec 6, 2010
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This is my first post! But anyways, I recently just bought a new setup from a local vape shop here in Knoxville. I got the Vamo v3 with the Kanger Protank 2. The vamo 510 threading is terrible, period. My cartos and tanks wouldnt screw in properly or even screw in at all. Took it back and got a new one and it's doing it also. And now my pro tank is gurgling and leaking in the mouthpiece terribly, but only when half full. If it's full it works fine. Which is rediculous. I love Knoxville vapor and they are great people and I'm not blaming them at all.

As far as the Vamo goes, the poor threading has been a known issue through all versions. The remedy is to use a 510/510 adapter, 510/510 ego adapter or a tank airflow control.

Tank Airflow Control

Screw one of those into the Vamo and leave it. Then, just use the adapter to attach your attys. The Vamo's threads are soft brass, the tafc is stainless, the 510 adapters alloy/brass.
 

cromagnon

Full Member
Dec 6, 2010
59
43
Florida
This is my first post! But anyways, I recently just bought a new setup from a local vape shop here in Knoxville. I got the Vamo v3 with the Kanger Protank 2. The vamo 510 threading is terrible, period. My cartos and tanks wouldnt screw in properly or even screw in at all. Took it back and got a new one and it's doing it also. And now my pro tank is gurgling and leaking in the mouthpiece terribly, but only when half full. If it's full it works fine. Which is rediculous. I love Knoxville vapor and they are great people and I'm not blaming them at all.

As far as the Vamo goes, the poor threading has been a known issue through all versions. The remedy is to use a 510/510 adapter, 510/510 ego adapter or a tank airflow control.

Tank Airflow Control

Screw one of those into the Vamo and leave it. Then, just use the adapter to attach your attys. The Vamo's threads are soft brass, the tafc is stainless, the 510 adapters alloy/brass.
 
Welcome Stroupe to the ECF,
:2c:
You have any other battery to try the Pro Tank on? It may be the threads on the tank, and not the Vamo.
Some new tanks do not have the coils seated properly, which may lead to gurgling and leaking.
If it is missing some of the silicon o rings, it will not seat properly also.
It's definitely not the battery cause it fits perfectly fine on my ego c twist. And also the pro tank isn't the only one that screws on awkwardly.
 

ShariR

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The vamo is known for having threading issues. I suggest you get yourself a more simple setup like a spinner/winder or an MVP2 and a few different toppers you can see what is going to work for you. Sometimes simple is better when first starting out. It took me well over a month to figure out what the whole ohms law and volts/watts really meant for a good vape. You need reliable, dependable equipment to start with. Maybe even just a 510 dripping atty so you can take it a little slower. That is what worked for me. I don't know what your level to techie-ness is. Mine is zero.

Welcome to ECF. You will find a lot of help here. I suggest you go to the apv forum and do some reading up on your vamo and the different toppers available to you so when you do decide if you want to trade that vamo in, you have an idea of what will work for you. You will be fine. There is a fairly steep learning curve to this.
 

Ronald3638

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Aug 16, 2013
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Zeeland, MI, USA
This is my first post! But anyways, I recently just bought a new setup from a local vape shop here in Knoxville. I got the Vamo v3 with the Kanger Protank 2. The vamo 510 threading is terrible, period. My cartos and tanks wouldnt screw in properly or even screw in at all. Took it back and got a new one and it's doing it also. And now my pro tank is gurgling and leaking in the mouthpiece terribly, but only when half full. If it's full it works fine. Which is rediculous. I love Knoxville vapor and they are great people and I'm not blaming them at all.

If its the protank 1 try holding with the drip tip at your thumb and the 510 connector between your forefinger and middle finger and squeeze if the top and bottom sections have started to separate from the glass tank you should feel them tighten up and you may hear a click, that may fix your leaky protank if its the version 1.

Protank Fix.jpg

It seems that Kangertech had a problem with the latest run of protanks, I showed this trick to the owner of a local vape shop and he had 4 out of 10 that were like this.
 
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