My DNA20 box mod project build

[asidrave]

Got the last of the parts i ordered yesterday that i ordered thru various sources. I would have bought a DNA20 box mod but as everyone knows they are hard to come by and if you can find one you will spend $250+ for one.

Here are the parts. I will list the parts, links and price.


DNA20 Chip - DNA20D By Evolv - $53.95 inc shipping
dna Charger - Evolv LLC - Shop Now - $8.50 inc shipping
Fire button - 12mm 12V 3V Hight Head Push Button Angel Eye Blue LED Metal Switch Momentary US | eBay - $8.49 inc shipping
Tactile button x2 - Invalid Request - $2.48
Project box - Invalid Request - $8.33
18650 Battery holder x2 -Lot 5 Pcs New 18650 17500 18500 Battery 3 6 4 2V Clip Holder Box | eBay - $1.66
510 connector - 510 Battery Connector, Sealed - $1.50

Total = $84.91*

* = YMMV these are the current prices and availability when i purchased them. I dont have shipping prices on some of the items and some items were purchased in bulk so i divided the cost for those items. The 510 connector im using is not the same as above. Ive had the connector for years and havent used it. The link for the connector is a newer better connector.

My first step is to test fit the parts and mark where im going to drill holes and make cutouts for the DNA20 display and charger port. I will try and take pictures and post progress during the build.

Wish me luck

BTW...I forgot to take a pic of the DNA20 chip with the parts

 

[asidrave]

I forgot to mention that i did take measurements of all the parts, by the dimensions provided by the site before i ordered them, to be sure they would fit in the box. The manufacturer of the box is Hammond
http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1590B.pdf

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Are you going to have a shield of some type for the display?

Looks like a great project..

 

[asidrave]

Are you going to have a shield of some type for the display?

Looks like a great project..

Thats the sort of hard part. I was thinking of using a clear plastic cut from a plastic box or something. I would just need to find the correct thickness

 

[asidrave]

Now im trying to think of how to adhere the DNA20 chip to the box. im not sure if i could use any old adhesive like krazy glue, 2-part epoxy or glue gun. I might need to get this:
Arctic Silver Aata 5g Alumina Adhesive Thermal Epoxy 5g | eBay
unless someone knows of something better?

 

[SupplyDaddy]

"Arctic Alumina Adhesive uses a layered composite of aluminum oxide and boron nitride. Arctic alumina thermal epoxy adhesive acts as a pure electrical insulator, neither electrically conductive nor capacitive."

Sounds about right to me.

 

[asidrave]

"Arctic Alumina Adhesive uses a layered composite of aluminum oxide and boron nitride. Arctic alumina thermal epoxy adhesive acts as a pure electrical insulator, neither electrically conductive nor capacitive."

Sounds about right to me.

Yea, i believe its the best solution. Now I either order it and wait a few days or drive 30 minutes to microcenter and pick it up. hmmmm...microcenter it is

 

[asidrave]

Here is the current layout

Battery trays had to be moved to one side due to the DNA20 chip being mounted to the side of the box inside. The DNA20 chip lcd gives me limited flexibility. Fire button location is right where my thumb feels more natural when gripping the box. The up/down buttons are to the right/left of the fire buttons.

Im currently creating a template for the LCD window

 

[asidrave]

Scratch the fire button placement. I didnt account for the depth of the fire button. It will hit the battery tray when closed. I think i will have to move the fire button the side toward the top or remove 1 battery tray....hmmm....decisions decisions

 

[b0bl0blaw]

on my standard milo's mod I was planning on using a similar switch and it didn't fit with a similar(single) battery box as you are using. I ended up using three of the small metal tactiles and was unhappy with it at the time, but love those switches now. For the next build I bought the 1590BS - a little thicker than your 1590B which might fit the larger switch. I'm anxious to see how big it is in person, but plan on either using two Panasonic 2900mah PF's, or an Orion RC car 100c 2s 4000mah shorty pack (was nearly new but had some broken solder tabs) in parallel for 8000mah.

 

[asidrave]

on my standard milo's mod I was planning on using a similar switch and it didn't fit with a similar(single) battery box as you are using. I ended up using three of the small metal tactiles and was unhappy with it at the time, but love those switches now. For the next build I bought the 1590BS - a little thicker than your 1590B which might fit the larger switch. I'm anxious to see how big it is in person, but plan on either using two Panasonic 2900mah PF's, or an Orion RC car 100c 2s 4000mah shorty pack (was nearly new but had some broken solder tabs) in parallel for 8000mah.

I was thinking of using the tactile switch for the fire button as well...i bought 4 of them. for me its just too small to use as a fire button and i am a hard button pusher. The fire button i purchased has such a good push feel to it...not too soft or springy.

I could move the battery holders to each side and the button will fit down between them with the cover on. Only issue with that is i cannot mount the DNA20 chip to the back of the box and flip the LCD 180 degrees...the ribbon cable is too short and wont let me do that. So mounting the DNA20 to the side of the box is my only real option

BTW...i also have 4 of the Panasonic 18650 2900PF as well and am going to dedicate 2 of them to this mod

 

[asidrave]

Here is a quick pic of testing the DNA20 chip
I also went to microcenter and picked up the thermal epoxy and picked up a new Dremel at Lowes

 

[asidrave]

OK holes and cutout are made. Working on the cutout for the charger port.

Sent by my phone

 

[asidrave]

Charger port done

Sent by my phone

 

[asidrave]

Almost done

Sent by my phone

 

[asidrave]

Well i ran into a problem.I wanted to check the board before i mounted it permanently to the side of the box so I wired the battery, switch and atomizer connector. I put a battery in and it comes to life. I screw on an atomizer and press the fire button. Im greeted with "check atomizer". ok so i adjust the center post on my Russian and screw it back in, no go. I test the wires from the board to the atomizer connector and it checks out. I checked the atomizer connection to see if its shorted, its fine no short. I resoldered the connections on the board and connector, same check atomizer error. I checked again with my Ithaka, same error .

Also, i don't see the ohms or voltage on the screen either when the atomizer is screwed in either. Im at wits end. I contacted evolve with the issue and am awaiting a response.

 

[retird]

Have you tried a normal 2 to 3 ohm carto/atomizer?

 

[asidrave]

Have you tried a normal 2 to 3 ohm carto/atomizer?

Yes....i tried a standard 2 ohm atomizer, no luck same issue

 

[Visus]

try measuring atomizer resistance at the board terminals you soldered wih your multimeter.

 

[asidrave]

try measuring atomizer resistance at the board terminals you soldered wih your multimeter.

Just tried what you suggested. No good. does not show any resistance, even with fire button pressed. I see the resistance of the attached atomizer when checking at the pin connection at the board