Anything I need to know other than making sure the one side makes no contact with the mod? Thanks in advance
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Giving the fuse mod a go tomorrow... Suggestions?
- Thread starter armyofskittles
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nope that one thread pretty much has it all covered......i did mine in a few minutes........i eventually went to auto zone and picked up some connectors and brass fitting for fuses to clean it up a bit
I recommend Mundy style. 
You plug your 10 amp fuse in and she ain't goin' nowhere.
ETA:
You plug your 10 amp fuse in and she ain't goin' nowhere.
ETA:
From .4 to .2 V drop in 5 minutes.
Had stuff in parts bin.
No modification to Reo required.
Thanks!
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I second Mundy's way, being able to screw the pad in is the way to go (I took the paint off around the bottom screw hole on the inside).
I took Mundy's way one step further and replicated the bottom connection for a top connection, then covered the thing with modeling clay. This way I can use any off the shelf fuse without modding it and its plug and play. However, it's not like its that difficult to premake 5 fuses with bent legs. But this gives me a perfect fit where the fuse mount will not move around. Just be wary of the top fuse leg touching the back of the mod and bypassing the fuse (this would be rare but possible)
Here's where I talk about my proceedure - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/472662-spring-what-spring-8.html#post10958633
I took Mundy's way one step further and replicated the bottom connection for a top connection, then covered the thing with modeling clay. This way I can use any off the shelf fuse without modding it and its plug and play. However, it's not like its that difficult to premake 5 fuses with bent legs. But this gives me a perfect fit where the fuse mount will not move around. Just be wary of the top fuse leg touching the back of the mod and bypassing the fuse (this would be rare but possible)
Here's where I talk about my proceedure - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/472662-spring-what-spring-8.html#post10958633
Works good! Don't have a way of testing the vdrop yet, my multimeter is mia, probably at work. But I think it's helped. My 1ohm coil is vaping great on my RM2 Im going to need the connector eventually, and a better way to avoid a short on the other leg. Just used electrical tape for now lol.
Bobas bounty just ordered. Need some new batteries as well. The red protective covering stuff is cracked and peeling all over...
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Im going to need the connector eventually, and a better way to avoid a short on the other leg. Just used electrical tape for now lol.Bobas bounty just ordered. Need some new batteries as well. The red protective covering stuff is cracked and peeling all over...
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All i'd add is to test it first by deliberately shorting your atty - you blow a fuse but know it works.
T
T
Just build a super low ohm coil and blow it that way??
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Just push the fire button and touch both posts at the same time with say,...a screwdriver. That will be a direct short. If the fuse is installed properly, it will blow almost instantly. Only short it for one second at the most; if the fuse doesn't blow within a second then it's being bypassed.
I had a hard short when fiddling around with a coil in a hurry (don't do that) and the fuse blew perfectly. But low ohm coils have worked great. .34 dual coil on my nimbus and it's working great!
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I'm wanting to set up a fuse on my reo, but I'm having a case of the stupids while looking at Mundy's photos. I did a little recon up at autozone last night, but wasn't able to find those particular connectors, and to be honest I can't tell exactly what I'm looking at in those photos. Can any of you guys take a better photo of the connectors needed, and possibly a higher definition / macro shot of it installed w/o the fuse?
I'm not inept, I just don't have a box of connectors lying around (just moved to a new apartment) and am probably more blind than I'd like to admit.
I'm not inept, I just don't have a box of connectors lying around (just moved to a new apartment) and am probably more blind than I'd like to admit.
just bend the legs on the fuse and sit battery on top mate, it wont move, I have to prize mine out with screwdriver etc to get it out
don't tell anyone but I use my reo door to get mine out
don't tell anyone but I use my reo door to get mine out
just bend the legs on the fuse and sit battery on top mate, it wont move, I have to prize mine out with screwdriver etc to get it out
don't tell anyone but I use my reo door to get mine out
Currently the only 18650s I have are NCR18650 panasonics, flat topped. When I tried the sandwich method it seemed a bit wonky, but I'll give it another shot later this evening if I can't get ahold of the other mystery connector =).
I have a pair of those NCR18650's sat here looking all sad and left out! they are the same length as my efest 1600's(flat tops) I use with the fuse mod, but in anycase
it doesn't matter because the beauty is so long as you don't bend the fuse legs flat against itself leave a nice gap you should be able to fit flat or button
it doesn't matter because the beauty is so long as you don't bend the fuse legs flat against itself leave a nice gap you should be able to fit flat or button
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As you can see in the pic above, I did sand some powder coat off on mine. However, I did that because my first fuse mod was with a loose fuse, super_X_drifter style. I decided not to do any sanding on my copper vein when I fused it, to compare v-drop. V-drop is near identical between the two. Apparently, plenty of current is able to flow through the screw without sanding. YMMV
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