Bad Threads - What did I buy?

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OBDave

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I've been hearing all sorts of people bashing VAMO for junk threads since I bought mine (it's been in slowtech limbo for weeks and I don't have it yet)...can someone tell me if I bought the "bad" VAMO or the "good" version?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1354104

I've never had an issue with thrashing threads on any of my Egos, even cheap knockoff versions, so I don't know what's genuine concern and what's just people with money bashing people who are on a budget...
 

Lessifer

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I don't think you got the stainless steel version, the link you posted went to a black chrome one. Chances are the threads will be somewhat soft, but if you're careful with it, it should be fine. Don't wiggle anything you put on top of it, and try not to drop it. I tweaked the threads of my first vamo and couldn't get anything to screw into it after that. For my second one I bought an airflow control ring that screws into the 510 connector, and then you screw your atomizer into that, just as an extra protection.
 

balwin

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I've been hearing all sorts of people bashing VAMO for junk threads since I bought mine (it's been in slowtech limbo for weeks and I don't have it yet)...can someone tell me if I bought the "bad" VAMO or the "good" version?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1354104

I've never had an issue with thrashing threads on any of my Egos, even cheap knockoff versions, so I don't know what's genuine concern and what's just people with money bashing people who are on a budget...

We have a total of 6 vamo at our house and have been using them for about a year now. None of them has ever had a problem with threads. 5 of them came from ft.
 

OBDave

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Lessifer - Thanks! When you say no wiggles, should I screw my toppers on snug even if they're getting a connection partially screwed on? I've been under the impression that I should only crank a topper down until it connects, even if there's a little wiggle that's a better place to be than forcing a connection pin down too far. If you can confirm I need to take the opposite approach great, and thanks again for the insight!

Balwin - appreciate the second vote of confidence! I've actually got two of these kits en route, one for me and one for the wife...
 

Rickajho

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Problems with VAMO threads have been reported here. Problems with people needing to take Vise Grips to a device to get it off their PV have been reported as well... If you gorilla any PV badly enough you can ruin the threads - even on a Provari.

I've had a chrome V2 for over half a year and have had no problems with the threading.
 

Lessifer

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Lessifer - Thanks! When you say no wiggles, should I screw my toppers on snug even if they're getting a connection partially screwed on? I've been under the impression that I should only crank a topper down until it connects, even if there's a little wiggle that's a better place to be than forcing a connection pin down too far. If you can confirm I need to take the opposite approach great, and thanks again for the insight!

Balwin - appreciate the second vote of confidence! I've actually got two of these kits en route, one for me and one for the wife...

No, sorry, I wasn't clear. Never tighten anything down too tight, usually a good finger tight is good enough. When I said don't wiggle stuff on top I meant once something is screwed in, try not to move it too much. I'm pretty sure I started the downfall of the threads on my first vamo by repeatedly removing the top cap of my aga-t while it was screwed in, basically pushing the entire thing to one side, over and over again. I made it worse with my rebuildable dripping atomizer, the cap was even harder to take off, so more stressing of the threads by pushing the topper to the side. The nail in the coffin was when I dropped it, it landed tank down and the tank popped right out of the threads and nothing ever screwed in again.
 

OBDave

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Problems with VAMO threads have been reported here. Problems with people needing to take Vise Grips to a device to get it off their PV have been reported as well... If you gorilla any PV badly enough you can ruin the threads - even on a Provari.

I've had a chrome V2 for over half a year and have had no problems with the threading.
I would never over-tighten to that extent, though I'll probably acquire a padded carry case for my wife, who throws PVs in her purse and wonders why they come home mangled, "even though the power was off."
No, sorry, I wasn't clear. Never tighten anything down too tight, usually a good finger tight is good enough. When I said don't wiggle stuff on top I meant once something is screwed in, try not to move it too much. I'm pretty sure I started the downfall of the threads on my first vamo by repeatedly removing the top cap of my aga-t while it was screwed in, basically pushing the entire thing to one side, over and over again. I made it worse with my rebuildable dripping atomizer, the cap was even harder to take off, so more stressing of the threads by pushing the topper to the side. The nail in the coffin was when I dropped it, it landed tank down and the tank popped right out of the threads and nothing ever screwed in again.
Gotcha. Thanks for the clarification! Worse comes to worst, I'm out $50 and I've acquired a $20 charger and $6 battery, so if I kill the mod my world doesn't end - I'll decide if it's that much more awesome than an Ego twist and, if so, spend more to get a better quality device next go-round.
 

OBDave

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Lessifer - more for you...I've got some IGO-W's on order, which will require significant wiggling as you describe. In your opinion, might I be able to grab the base and hold it firm while popping the body off the atty to drip, or should I remove the atty completely whenever I need to drip? Sorry if this is too detailed if you're not familiar with the atty I'm talking about...
 

Lessifer

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Lessifer - more for you...I've got some IGO-W's on order, which will require significant wiggling as you describe. In your opinion, might I be able to grab the base and hold it firm while popping the body off the atty to drip, or should I remove the atty completely whenever I need to drip? Sorry if this is too detailed if you're not familiar with the atty I'm talking about...

With the igow, you won't be able to remove the top cap without it screwed into something, BUT you should only need to remove the top cap when you are rebuilding it or otherwise messing with the wick/coil. For dripping you can either drip through your drip tip or just remove the drip tip and drip through the hole in the top cap.

What I ended up doing was using an old dead ego battery as a holder whenever I was going to be rebuilding. Some places sell 510 threaded stands that you can use for rebuilding also.
 

OBDave

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With the igow, you won't be able to remove the top cap without it screwed into something, BUT you should only need to remove the top cap when you are rebuilding it or otherwise messing with the wick/coil. For dripping you can either drip through your drip tip or just remove the drip tip and drip through the hole in the top cap.

What I ended up doing was using an old dead ego battery as a holder whenever I was going to be rebuilding. Some places sell 510 threaded stands that you can use for rebuilding also.

guinness-brilliant.jpeg
 

EBates

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I own 2-v2s (al, ss), and a v3, v5. Wife has 3-v2s (al, brass, ss), and a v3. The oldest being 8mo old. I have ordered for at least a dozen (probably more but...) v2s for family and gifts at christmas. I have seen 2 with bad threads (1-2v, 1-v3) both had bad threads straight out of the box. I check all of the ones I order first thing due to all of the reports of thread issues. In only one case of all of the vamos there has only been one other report of a thread issue. My daughter's BF claiming to have his second stripped vamo. He and I both agreed upon receipt of the vamo that the threads were good. He also can't keep a glass tank more than a week. so, I suspect this failure may be his fault.
In all of the instances Fasttech replaced the bad item and paid for shipping them back.
 

Keeferes

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I have two months on a ss v5. My 510 and ego threads are fine. My 18650 battery tube threads are fine. My battery cap is jacked after a fall about a foot high onto a concrete porch. It hit dead flat on the bottom. Now they are very hard to use case something not visible bent or tweaked. Not a big problem though, cause I just unscrew the tube instead of the cap. My buttons o the other hand are rapidly degrading. The down and the power button sit almost flush with the housing. This is from normal use and not the fall. It's my backup PV now, so doesn't bother me much. Besides, for less then $50 I wasn't expecting a Kevlar reinforced super PV. I will say though, I am quickly learning, in the vape game, you definitely get what you pay for more often then not.

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KineticMind

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I was tempted to buy the 510 to eGo adapter from FT when I ordered my V3, but have actually just been using the beauty ring for my Protank 2 as a buffer between my Vamo and the tanks I use. I don't tighten the beauty ring down all the way, which prevents me from cranking down a tank too far... and it gives it a nicer look, too, without the slight gap between the V3 and the tank.

As to the original question, I've read that the chromed finishes tend to have more fragile threads, but don't know how accurate that is. Mine is the SS version, also ordered from FT, and it seems to be built pretty solidly.
 

Bunnykiller

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I have 2 Vamo 3's... the top portion of them are chrome plated brass. If you tighten the topper too tight, the brass threads will eventually "roll" ending up with a loose fit. Just tighten the topper untill it is snug but not too tight, the threads should last a while... avoid dropping the vamos tho... the PC board doesnt like impacts
 

Lessifer

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