AW 24A 1600mAh Button-Top 18650 Bench Test Results...a good 24A battery

Status
Not open for further replies.

Mooch

Electron Wrangler
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
  • May 13, 2015
    3,946
    15,441
    Tested at 10A-35A constant current. This cell was purchased from RTDVapor and donated for testing. To prevent any confusion with the eGo-type "batteries", I use the term "cell" here to refer to a single 18650, 26650, etc.


    Disclaimer
    The conclusions and recommendations I make based on these tests are only my personal opinion. Carefully research any battery you are considering using before purchasing.

    Testing batteries at their limits is dangerous and should never, ever, be attempted by anyone who has not thoroughly studied the dangers involved and how to minimize them. My safety precautions are the ones I have selected to take and you should not assume they will protect you if you attempt to do any testing. Do the research and create your own testing methods and safety precautions.

    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg


    Bottom Line
    In my opinion, this is a good low-capacity 24A continuous discharge current (CDR) button-top cell. I recommend not using it above 25A.


    Test Results
    image.jpg


    Comments
    • At 10A it reached about 1500mAh. This is pretty good performance for a 1600mAh-rated cell.
    • At 20A the maximum temperature reached 68°C. This is low and indicates that the cell is not yet operating at its CDR.
    • At 25A the temperature rose to 78°. This is average for a cell operating at its CDR.
    • At 25A it's capacity down to 3.2V is only a bit less than the LG HD2. It runs longer, but hotter, than the LG HB6. If you require a button-top, this is a pretty good hi-amp cell.
    • Five additional cycles at 25A showed only the normal loss in capacity resulting from operating a cell at its CDR. But there was a bit more voltage sag than usual, indicating that the cell was being damaged a bit at 25A.
    • At 30A the temperature rose to 85°C, too high for setting the CDR at 30A.
    • At 35A the temperature rose to 94°C, way to high to operate a cell at.
    • I am setting a CDR of 24A for this cell. Its temperature at 25A was moderate but there were small signs of damage after the additional five cycles at 25A. Dropping back down a bit, to 24A, will help slow down that damage. While operating any cell near its rated maximum current causes damage to the cell, I would expect decent cycle life from this cell at 24A. I would not recommend operating this cell above 25A due to the damage it causes.
    • To see how other cells have tested and how hard you can safely push them, check out the links in my signature.
     

    juicynoos

    Ultra Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Sep 27, 2014
    1,036
    981
    "Paradox", French West Indies
    Mooch, just wanted to say how much I appreciate all your efforts which result in an invaluable resource in order to make good choices in terms of which battery to choose for a given application. Thanks man :)
    Quick question on the AW branded cells (which are all that are available to me locally). What is the 5.9, 11.1 WH etc relating to since it is neither a C rating or Amps rating?
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Mooch

    Mooch

    Electron Wrangler
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
  • May 13, 2015
    3,946
    15,441
    Mooch, just wanted to say how much I appreciate all your efforts which result in an invaluable resource in order to make good choices in terms of which battery to choose for a given application. Thanks man :)
    Quick question on the AW branded cells (which are all that are available to me locally). What is the 5.9, 11.1 WH etc relating to since it is neither a C rating or Amps rating?

    Thanks!

    It can actually be a better measure of battery performance than C rating or continuous current rating. The rating of watt-hours, Wh, is an extension of ampere-hours. Instead of (amperes) x (hours), to give us a battery's capacity, it uses (volts) x (amps) x (hours) to tell us the total amount of energy the battery can deliver.

    That allows us to include the voltage of the battery while it's running as part of a rating. It's a combination of the capacity and the voltage, giving a fuller picture of battery performance. It can be more confusing though. Two 10Wh batteries could be quite different from each other. One could have a high voltage while running and the other could have a high capacity. But both could measure out to 10Wh though.

    But along with the other specs, Wh can be a useful way to help in selecting a battery.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: juicynoos

    juicynoos

    Ultra Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Sep 27, 2014
    1,036
    981
    "Paradox", French West Indies
    Ok, got it and thanks for the explanation. If you would be so kind, I need to get advice here.

    I am about to retire some VTC5's leaving me with 4 Sammy 25r blue wraps which are all married to use in a TC mod that operates in series. They are quite new. I will need to replace the vtc's I use in mechs with 4 more cells and will draw no more than say max. 12 amps with my 'go to' builds.
    My battery choices are AW 1600 mAH button top or AW 2200 flat top; that's it! Which would you choose? (I note that all the AW's claim to have 500 cycles)

    Am thinking of using the Sammy's in the mechs and getting the AW 2200 to replace those in the TC regulated device. whatcha think?
     

    Mooch

    Electron Wrangler
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
  • May 13, 2015
    3,946
    15,441
    If your max is 12A and you are limited to the AW batteries, then I would say go with the 2200...higher capacity. If you were able to buy HG2's, that would be my #1 choice,

    The 25R's might be better in the mech. I haven't compared the voltage drop of those two though to know for sure though...sorry.
     
    Status
    Not open for further replies.

    Users who are viewing this thread