eGo ONE tank series – CLR coil

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Katya

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So the rebuildable coils are pretty much like when we used to rebuild the tiny kanger coils back in the old days? Horizontal coil, leads coming out the bottom, pin securing the positive? Looks like everything old is new again huh?

Yup. And like Kanger Subtank mini horizontal coils. Piece of cake to rebuild. Those tiny Kangers were a PITA, really. :)
 

pufZeppelin

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Come on, Puf! How hard is it to wind your own coils? I have a Kuro coiler gizmo (a very good Tobeco clone) and now can wind my coils with my eyes closed. Promise.

it's not the "act of" - but the price of

100 coils for $2.67, not a bad deal I think

query , how many 6 wrap, 3mm ID coils come out of a 100' roll of 28g (good question)

but like I said, if I'd make a FT order (which I doubt I ever will) nice to throw in cart

I always thought the 'wrapping wire' was the easiest part

don't cha member` we talk this before, I gotts the same Kuro Concepts as you :D

eta: had to do the math; looks like it takes 30' to make 100 coils

upload_2016-1-11_2-22-39.png


so I guess I stand corrected: not such a great deal
:blink:

;)
 

pufZeppelin

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so one of my ALL TIME favorite artists passed away yesterday (69 yo)
he was all over the map with his music
I just 'agreed' with many of his songs and they made me feel good
many, many good times were had while I listened to David Bowie music through out my life... :sleep:

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R.I.P.
 

gerrymi

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I enjoy the ease of rewicking the coils and I must admit I do cheat when rebuilding the coil; I use these precoiled wires from Fasttech

I use the .3mm 1.1 Ohms ones for this CLR

I've always seen myself as too stupid/lazy to even consider rebuilding coils.

Then...pufZ (in another thread) turned me on to these CLR heads.

Now...yunz are mentioning these precoiled wires (which would seem to make rebuilding the CLRs even easier).

But I'm a little cornfused...

Heybil...you're using 26 AWG / 0.4mm dia. / 1ohm precoiled wires

zoiD...you're using 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 1.1ohm precoiled wires

I assume they both "fit" the CLR.

Which would be preferable for a MTL Tootle Puffer (who has yet to go over 14Watts)?
 

zoiDman

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I've always seen myself as too stupid/lazy to even consider rebuilding coils.

Then...pufZ (in another thread) turned me on to these CLR heads.

Now...yunz are mentioning these precoiled wires (which would seem to make rebuilding the CLRs even easier).

But I'm a little cornfused...

Heybil...you're using 26 AWG / 0.4mm dia. / 1ohm precoiled wires

zoiD...you're using 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 1.1ohm precoiled wires

I assume they both "fit" the CLR.

Which would be preferable for a MTL Tootle Puffer (who has yet to go over 14Watts)?

Hard to say which ones you might like Better? I like the 29ga/.3mm Coils over the 29ga/.4mm ones. And I rarely go over 16 Watts.

I can't speck for the 26ga/.4mm Coils. But these coils Fit Fine. They are 3mm Inside Diameter.

$3.54 Pre-Coiled Wires for Rebuildable Atomizers (100-Pack) - 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 1.1ohm / 12*12mm leads / 5 loops at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

One thing you might find is that a 26ga Coil 1.0 ohm @ <14 Watts will have a Slower Ramp Up than a 29ga Coil.
 

Katya

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Which would be preferable for a MTL Tootle Puffer (who has yet to go over 14Watts)?

Gerry, generally, your coil's OD should be similar to the diameter of the air passage hole in your coil head/build deck for best performance. So, if you're rebuilding 1Ω coils with small 1.8mm holes, make a 2mm diameter coil; you can make larger 2.5-3mm coil for the larger (3.5mm hole) 0.5Ω coils.

{pictures stolen from Puff's post}

upload_2016-1-8_14-44-51-png.521027


I like 29/28g Kanthal wire, 2-2.5 ID, 1.2-1.8Ω coils for my tottle puffing needs.

Good luck.
 

pufZeppelin

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I've always seen myself as too stupid/lazy to even consider rebuilding coils.
Then...pufZ (in another thread) turned me on to these CLR heads.
Now...yunz are mentioning these precoiled wires (which would seem to make rebuilding the CLRs even easier).
But I'm a little cornfused...
Heybil...you're using 26 AWG / 0.4mm dia. / 1ohm precoiled wires
zoiD...you're using 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 1.1ohm precoiled wires
I assume they both "fit" the CLR.
Which would be preferable for a MTL Tootle Puffer (who has yet to go over 14Watts)?


gerry gerry gerry, you are over thinking it !

get some kite string and a drinking straw;
wrap the string around the straw for practice…
find some yarn, get a pencil, practice wrapping yarn around a pencil
can you put the bread tie-wrap on the loaf of bread

wrapping wire around a 2.5 mm mandrel is a piece-o-cake
buy a spool of 30g kanthal (50’) and just practice $5
use steam engine calculator to know what Ω you’re making (ez-pz)

that’s the way-simple part (most people act like this is a big deal)

IMO, the tricky part (still simple enuff) is attaching it (coil) in coil body
wrap coil / manipulate it into body / tweak it around with a tooth pick (so it looks pretty)
then put in base; put it on a mod, check Ω's

twist up some cotton, thread it thru, prime with eJuice… :cool:

after you do that five times, you will LAFF at yourself for being scared
then KICK yourself for not doing it sooner…

TRUST ME would I lie to you :D


upload_2016-1-13_16-57-46.png


:)
 

pufZeppelin

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:2c:

gerry, guess I should say this

if you build the most basic coil (as per graph up there ^)
that will put you in the ball park of what you've been buying

THEN - build them as YOU want them // little more, little less etc

that's the sweetness to doing ALL THIS

`jus sayin'

:banana:
 

52anddone

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Just wanted to check in with Ya'll that are keeping score. I've run 3 Full Tron-S tank fulls (4ml each, measured) of Unflavored 12mg/ml 60/40 PG/VG ECX Nic thru this First CLR 1Ω stock coil head set to 13 Watts on the VTC mini, and All Is Well, so far. Absolutely NO problems at all. No Leaks, No Drips, does seem to Crackle still quite a bit though (no biggie), Good to Very Good Vapor production for a Factory coil head, and taste is slightly muted, but not too bad (Compared to my Lemo Drop with a Coil Master made and KGD wicked build at 1.2Ω, 2.5mm ID, Dual Twisted Kanthal A-1 30g coil, and 14 watts). This CLR 1Ω coil head is close enough to my Lemo Drop in Vapor Production and Taste that I would Vape either and be very happy.
I did measure the capacity of the Tron-S Tank and it is exactly 4ml, Surprise o_O , 4.1ml and I would have had a mess on my hands as juice would start running down the center airflow shaft, so be careful when filling the Tron-S.
I have had NO Dry or Burnt Hits, No Spitting or Popping, just a smooth, even draw. Whether I set the airflow down to it's tightest or loosest draw, the tank and CLR head performs quite well. My only comparison of any other tank with a factory head (in the last year or so) is with a STM and a factory .5Ω head (the latest Style, he had just bought it) that my Son-in-law had here over the Christmas Holidays, and that was set up at 23.5 watts and a semi-tight draw, and it spit and popped quite often, but he liked it. The STM .5Ω was very similar in Taste and Vapor Production to this Tron-S/CLR 1Ω as we compared them both.
So there you go, I'm going to fill this up again (Tank #4). The VTC mini/Tron-S/1Ω CLR Factory head are quite a combination and would do someone new to vaping, or even a veteran vaper, Proud. I'll keep this test of the CLR head going, but plan to get a Tron-T tank as well, I like the "S" that much and I like the look of the "T" (with the CLR head, of course).

P.S. I average about 3.5 to 4.5 ml per day, so I guess I'm an average vaper, and I mostly mix Unflavored 99% of the time. What these CLR heads will do with Fruits, Deserts, Tobacco's and the like, I have NO Idea. The same with higher wattage's, No Idea.

Edit: I also get 2 full tank fulls off of 1 battery (Sam 25 r-2) charge, doing about 3.8 second pulls in Power mode.

Hey All. After about 6 tanks full w/stock coil and wicking (CLR 1Ω head) I decided to Pull out the Factory cotton and re-wick with KGD, so I cut a 5mm wide (measured) strip and pulled off either the top or bottom compressed layer, cut 1 end so it was pointed (for easier insertion into the coil) and threaded the KGD thru. I cut the ends so as to be as close to the CLR head as possible. I then primed the cotton, put the CLR top cap back on, filled the tank, and re-assembled. The vape opened up on flavor just enough so that I can't tell the difference between my Tron-S and my Lemo Drop, and am convinced now that the factory just used too much cotton to begin with. It still crackles like before (I like that aspect) and still No Popping or Spitting, but has a bit more flavor. Am still using 12mg/ml Unflavored 60/40 Pg/Vg but think if I switch to Rayon I would have to lower my Nic to say 9mg/ml or even 6mg/ml. I'm still using the same factory coil as what came in the head (Nichrome 80N 29g at 2.5mm perhaps ? 6/5 wraps) and it looks Great (have never dry burned it, it was clean after 24ml), and it was 1.1Ω to start, then after vaping a tank went down to 1.04Ω, just like the factory setup. I like it very much. I bumped the wattage up .5 watts to 13.5 watts in Power Mode and am more content. Just a bit more vapor than before, and use the tightest air draw setting. I'm a happy camper for sure. These heads ARE just like my Kanger AeroTank V1/V2 heads minus the top tube, only Bigger and easier to work on. My Tron-S has Never leaked or dripped once, Amazing !! :thumbs:

P.S. I mix said Unflavored 60/40 Pg/Vg to 12mg/ml Nic with 1% FA Flash added (1 drop of Flash per 3ml of Unflavored base). Coming off of Maroboro Red's w/filter tore off, this really hits the spot. :thumb:

P.S.S. I just got out of the hospital Wed. but had (don't tell anyone, Please) my vape with me and was using it very judiciously when no one was looking :oops: . VTC mini/Tron-S, all in Black with a Black Sleeve, a VERY Stealth setup I might say. Yup, I may be 65 years old, but I still do things MY Way. ;)
 

52anddone

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For the sake of knowledge and the bump What is flash?

Sorry it took so long to get back to you on this. zoiDman is correct on FA Flash being a TH Enhancer, below is a link where I go more into the properties of not only FA Flash, but also INW DNB (Dirty Neutral Base) as some of us use in Unflavored Nic juice.

Nicotine Comparisons
 
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pufZeppelin

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:2c:
so I've had a TRON-S tank for awhile now, and honestly I like the standard eGo ONE tank better

wonder WHY I can't find the " TRON-T " available... ?
makes no diff now, I won't be buying any of either Tron tanks

I don't like you can't at-a-glance, see position of air flow
when it condensates it doesn't run out the afc, it pools-up INSIDE the afc ring :grr:
when you 'puff' into it, it blows vape back in your face :shock:

after maybe 4 tanks of vapin', I put it into storage and bought more standard ego one tanks

experiment over... :glare:


the subtank mini with 'bell cap' has been sharing my vape-time with ego one...
the ego one mega in SS is a very handsome tank - IMO

Vape≈Smart
 
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Heybilox

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Hey Puf. like you I'm disappointed in the Tron tank. I have the T and I find it hard to see the level when filling. I find the top cap of the CLR coil sometimes stays in the chimney when seperating the tank. I see no advantage of hiding the air flow control and I too have leakage there.
The Ego one Mega tanks are my favorites with the CLR 1 ohm coil.
I try and keep it simple puffing on my Evic VTC Mini at 11 watts and all is good.
 

pufZeppelin

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Hey Puf. like you I'm disappointed in the Tron tank. I have the T and I find it hard to see the level when filling. I find the top cap of the CLR coil sometimes stays in the chimney when seperating the tank. I see no advantage of hiding the air flow control and I too have leakage there.
The Ego one Mega tanks are my favorites with the CLR 1 ohm coil.
I try and keep it simple puffing on my Evic VTC Mini at 11 watts and all is good.

although the CLR 'cap' sometimes stays IN THE Air Tube (and is frustrating)
I look at it as being from good design & quality - IMO
to think that--that seal is strong enuff to 'hold'
and the threads are smooth enuff to allow unscrewing
and it is all machined good so not to 'bind' up ; and ALL my ego one tanks do it
(unscrew base, then reinsert and about 1½ turns catches cap threads, ez/pz)


my ego ones though, once they get down to the last ¼ tank,
somehow lose vacuum and start to 'seep' o_O
I have about 11 of these tanks, and NOT ONE HAS AN ISSUE
now whatever goes on with that last ¼ tank - I'll just deal with it (now that I know)

but with these qwerks, I still think it is the tank for me
price, size, coils, capacity, looks -- it's getting the job done,
and I have invested in the future with them...

:evil:
 
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