Newbie

[dbrandt01]

Some people have mentioned it. The 1600mah are higher amps. For example, 1600mah is 24 amps. 2000mah is 10 amps. According to PBusardo's site, a person I trust a lot with vape stuff. RTD Vapor says the 2200mah are 20 amps. I run 0.3 ohms on my Reo all the time and it's not too bad. I saw it mentioned about kanthal. 26g is a lot to heat up. 28g would heat up faster and I only use 28g on my Reo personally.

When I vape my setup, it's always more powerful with a bath and noalox, I can notice a drop off easily over time and I use the 1600mah AW's. I feel like mech never hits like a regulated mod, but the Reo is still better

 

[rangerrobin]

Personally, I wouldn't run a 0.2Ω build with the 2200mAh AWs. I suggest acquiring the 1600mAh AWs before attempting this.

Definitely won't.

 

[Spydro]

No way, I live IN Guerneville!!!!!
PM incoming!

The Russian River was part of my stomping grounds from the late 60's to mid 70's. Friends had a cabin there that my girlfriend/then wife/now ex and I used as a starting base and last night base on 4-5 day trips for big Red Abalone and Urchins along the stretch of PCH north from Anchor Bay towards Point Arena. We used steel cables to scale down the high cliffs at specific places on the lowest tides of the year to snorkel for them (the very few hours of the year when the raging waves are not crashing high into the cliffs). We camped on the cliffs once up there. Dangerous place, very easy to get caught by the rising tide, cut off from getting back to the cables. So the lady kept an eye on the tides while I made free dives for the days catch. The rewards in good eats were many so it was worth the risk to us at the time.

 

[gbacon]

I used to camp on the Russian River ever summer when I was a kid. We would do day trips to Goats Rock when we were there.

 

[rangerrobin]

The Russian River was part of my stomping grounds from the late 60's to mid 70's. Friends had a cabin there that my girlfriend/then wife/now ex and I used as a starting base and last night base on 4-5 day trips for big Red Abalone and Urchins along the stretch of PCH north from Anchor Bay towards Point Arena. We used steel cables to scale down the high cliffs at specific places on the lowest tides of the year to snorkel for them (the very few hours of the year when the raging waves are not crashing high into the cliffs). We camped on the cliffs once up there. Dangerous place, very easy to get caught by the rising tide, cut off from getting back to the cables. So the lady kept an eye on the tides while I made free dives for the days catch. The rewards in good eats were many so it was worth the risk to us at the time.

I used to camp on the Russian River ever summer when I was a kid. We would do day trips to Goats Rock when we were there.

Such a small world!

 

[rangerrobin]

You didn't mention which battery. An AW 1600 is more powerful than a AW 2200 or even a AW 3000 it may have more to do with that than anything else. the 1600 pushes 24 amps where as the 2200 and 3000 pushes 20 amps.

I'm having a hard time finding authentic 1600 batteries! Any suggestions?

 

[jifjifjif]

AW IMR 18650 3.7v 1600mAh

 

[rangerrobin]

AW IMR 18650 3.7v 1600mAh

Ordered and used coupon code ecf5. Thanks!

 

[Layzee Vaper]

You might find this chart useful.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/build-for-x-heat-flux-jpg.511331/

On a mech different wire gauges work better at different resistances.......

The surface area of the coil dictates the amount of vapour you are going to get, more surface area = more vapour.

Thicker wire = more surface area and a slower ramp up time
Thinner wire = less surface area and a faster ramp up time

As you cant bump up the voltage applied to the coil with a mech you have to find the best compromise between the amount of vapour and the ramp up time.

From what you have said so far may be try dual 27AWG @ about .45 to .50 and work from there.

 

[rangerrobin]

@Layzee Vaper - Nifty chart! What does the color coding and numbers within the colors mean?

 

[Layzee Vaper]

The numbers relate to the heat flux, its a measure of how hot the coil will be.
Blue indicates cool, red indicates hot. Most people drop into the green or yellow sections.
If you feed your wire size and resistance into steam engines coil building app and adjust the wattage it will give you the heat flux. if you then change the wattage, you will see the heat flux value change and the colour change. It's a good starting point for builds you could try on your reo.

 

[rangerrobin]

My new batteries are expected to arrive tomorrow! Meanwhile, I'm trying different 28g builds.

 

[rangerrobin]

Update: even with the 1600 mah batteries and fresh 28g .5 - .6 builds, I'm not getting the cloud production I get with other devices.

I see videos of Reo users chucking huge clouds, so I know it's possible.
I'm at my wits end! Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[redeyedancer]

Update: even with the 1600 mah batteries and fresh 28g .5 - .6 builds, I'm not getting the cloud production I get with other devices.

I see videos of Reo users chucking huge clouds, so I know it's possible.
I'm at my wits end! Any advice would be appreciated.

Check your positive contact for pit marks . removes your spring clean the body were the spring attaches to the body . I would also make sure your center post is tight . Your welcome to send the mod to me If there is something wrong I will find it and fix it

 

[rangerrobin]

Check your positive contact for pit marks . removes your spring clean the body were the spring attaches to the body . I would also make sure your center post is tight . Your welcome to send the mod to me If there is something wrong I will find it and fix it

The mod has been throughly cleaned and treated with Noalax. Everything appears to be in prime working condition. If I can't get it figured out, I may take you up on your kind offer! Of course, I would pay for return shipping.

ETA: In another effort to troubleshoot, I tried firing some of my non BF atties with it and it IS working just fine! So, back to the drawing, I mean building board.

 

[SteamStack]

All I can think is raise the center post on the adjustable 510. Sounds like it's barely touching rhe bf atty post if the other attys are hitting fine.

Prob the atty is bottoming out and the center post on the atty side is pushed in barely making contact.

Same deal when I find my atty not hitting good and I find that the atty is not tight. Tighten it and it's fine again.

 

[rangerrobin]

@SteamStack - I tried that, but it didn't make a difference.

I have no problems building non bf atties and can't figure out what I need to do different. I'm beat, so I'll rebuild the 4 bf atties I have tomorrow.

 

[redeyedancer]

Could the difference be your flooding the bf atomizers ?

 

[gbacon]

Do your non bf attys have copper/brass pins? all your bf attys will have stainless pins and will have a small amount more voltage drop than attys with the copper/brass pins. I can see the difference in mine so I build them differently.

 

[rangerrobin]

Could the difference be your flooding the bf atomizers ?

That's happened a couple times.

Do your non bf attys have copper/brass pins? all your bf attys will have stainless pins and will have a small amount more voltage drop than attys with the copper/brass pins. I can see the difference in mine so I build them differently.

Good point. Because I've only used regulated devices until now, I haven't needed to know about that.

This morning, I rebuilt my Marguis and Vector with success!

Thanks everyone!