Thanks for the info. I know the "recommended" piece of the mesh you cut was like 20mm by 50mm or something like that but I found that was WAYYY to thick once rolled up to fit down into the slot and ended up having to cut it like 20 x 40 or something like that to get it to fit. I'll keep trying, cause I love the device and it wasn't cheap! I want to be able to use it!
I'd be more than happy to help! The In'Ax is a little finicky but once 3 main points are addressed, its been an absolute dream.
1.) the wick must be slightly elevated on the center post such that it is not touching the base of the atomizer.
2.) the wick must be not so fat such that it is not pressing, at all, into the walls of the wick hole in the build deck.
3.) the wick must be placed in such a way that the top of it is not touching the grypstick or threaded nut (depending on which centerpost you're using).
I did a lot of digging the next morning, after the disastrous first attempt, and literally took notes and collected pictures LOL. Here are some that illustrate what I mean by the wick's placement relative to the nut (or grypstick):
And based on the successes of others, these are the exact measurements and materials I used in my setup (i'll do this step by step):
**Before I begin: After I posted this I scrolled up and read through the rest of the comments. Those wick measurements are *way* too much (30 x 45, 20 x 50, etc.). When i first made these cuts, I looked at them and said to myself 'theres no way this is sufficient! This is so small!" I decided to proceed anyway, and I cant recommend strongly enough to just follow the measurements I took down from others. Suspend your disbelief!
Step 1:
Cut a 10mm (height) x 20mm (width) piece of #200sf
Step 2:
Cut a 7mm (height) x 10mm (width) "upper sleeve" of #300 mesh
Step 3:
Torch each on both sides for a total of 10 seconds.
Step 4:
Roll the #200sf into a full length wick around the provided rolling pin.
Step 5:
Roll the #300 mesh as an upper sleeve around the 200sf wick that is still around the rolling pin. Roll the whole thing fairly tightly, although not 'stiff.'
Step 5:
Remove from rolling pin and torch for 5 seconds.
Step 6:
Drench the wick in e-liquid (I used 100% PG), light it on fire and let it burn off by itself (hold it away from your face, it may 'spit' as it burns). Repeat this three times.
Step 7.
Place wick on centerpost, orienting it how I've described (slightly elevated from touching the atty base, slightly below the grypstick or threaded nut [refer to pictures for this part])
Step 8:
wrap your coil using 4 wraps of 0.3mm (28g) kanthal wrapped counter-clockwise. At this point I have the atomizer on a mech mod, am holding the wire length trapped at the positive end out to one side, and rotate the mod itself as I 'release,' in small spurts, the wire from my hand (like spinning on a loom).
*Prior to wrapping the coil, I straightened the wire with a drill, and then annealed its length briefly with a chef's torch to reduce springiness and reduce hot spotting.
Step 9:
Loop negative lead into the groove and trap it with the negative secure nut.
Step 10: Work out hot spots.
*At this point I moved the atomizer from a mech mod onto a box and began at 5W. Rapidly moved to 7, and had it working great by the time I hit 10W.
I used ceramic tweezers to lightly 'brush' the coil from top to bottom and bottom to top while firing it in order to even out its conductivity. Working out the hotspots pretty much took less than 60 seconds (after FIVE HOURS OF FAILURE the night before!!!)
There you go! I hope this helped you as much as it did me!
I'd be more than happy to help! The In'Ax is a little finicky but once 3 main points are addressed, its been an absolute dream.
1.) the wick must be slightly elevated on the center post such that it is not touching the base of the atomizer.
2.) the wick must be not so fat such that it is not pressing, at all, into the walls of the wick hole in the build deck.
3.) the wick must be placed in such a way that the top of it is not touching the grypstick or threaded nut (depending on which centerpost you're using).
I did a lot of digging the next morning, after the disastrous first attempt, and literally took notes and collected pictures LOL. Here are some that illustrate what I mean by the wick's placement relative to the nut (or grypstick):
And based on the successes of others, these are the exact measurements and materials I used in my setup (i'll do this step by step):
**Before I begin: After I posted this I scrolled up and read through the rest of the comments. Those wick measurements are *way* too much (30 x 45, 20 x 50, etc.). When i first made these cuts, I looked at them and said to myself 'theres no way this is sufficient! This is so small!" I decided to proceed anyway, and I cant recommend strongly enough to just follow the measurements I took down from others. Suspend your disbelief!
Step 1:
Cut a 10mm (height) x 20mm (width) piece of #200sf
Step 2:
Cut a 7mm (height) x 10mm (width) "upper sleeve" of #300 mesh
Step 3:
Torch each on both sides for a total of 10 seconds.
Step 4:
Roll the #200sf into a full length wick around the provided rolling pin.
Step 5:
Roll the #300 mesh as an upper sleeve around the 200sf wick that is still around the rolling pin. Roll the whole thing fairly tightly, although not 'stiff.'
Step 5:
Remove from rolling pin and torch for 5 seconds.
Step 6:
Drench the wick in e-liquid (I used 100% PG), light it on fire and let it burn off by itself (hold it away from your face, it may 'spit' as it burns). Repeat this three times.
Step 7.
Place wick on centerpost, orienting it how I've described (slightly elevated from touching the atty base, slightly below the grypstick or threaded nut [refer to pictures for this part])
Step 8:
wrap your coil using 4 wraps of 0.3mm (28g) kanthal wrapped counter-clockwise. At this point I have the atomizer on a mech mod, am holding the wire length trapped at the positive end out to one side, and rotate the mod itself as I 'release,' in small spurts, the wire from my hand (like spinning on a loom).
*Prior to wrapping the coil, I straightened the wire with a drill, and then annealed its length briefly with a chef's torch to reduce springiness and reduce hot spotting.
Step 9:
Loop negative lead into the groove and trap it with the negative secure nut.
Step 10: Work out hot spots.
*At this point I moved the atomizer from a mech mod onto a box and began at 5W. Rapidly moved to 7, and had it working great by the time I hit 10W.
I used ceramic tweezers to lightly 'brush' the coil from top to bottom and bottom to top while firing it in order to even out its conductivity. Working out the hotspots pretty much took less than 60 seconds (after FIVE HOURS OF FAILURE the night before!!!)
There you go! I hope this helped you as much as it did me!
