Well, put out my last .... (God willing) last week. So far so good. Tough, but not as tough as I thought it would be. It would have been impossible without vaping (I've tried-often), so this is another possible vaping success story.
Anyway, my question's in the title--Do most E-Liquids work with sub-ohm set-ups?? The reason I ask is because I really like the E-Liquid I've been using for over a year, but I don't like their equipment. In fact, I tried their own e-juice with their own, new, sub-ohm cartridge and it was an "adventure" (heated the hell out of my battery, while draining the charge in an hour).
I know there are thousands of e-liquids out there, but at this stage of quitting, I don't want to mess with what's worked/working.
I'm looking at a Halo Triton vape pen now. I don't even know if it's sub-ohm (lol). I just want it to work with my current e-liquid without worrying about going through cartridges every week (or getting a bum cartridge now and then-it's happened more than once). Massive clouds of vapor aren't important to me. Just enough.
Any answers/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Sounding like you are currently on a cig-a-like setup maybe, with your mention of a cartridge? Or are you on an Ego style (more along the size of a cigar) with a clearomizer and you are talking about the replaceable coil heads?? The Halo Triton if I remember correctly is in the Ego Class size, though they use a KR808-D connection instead of a 510 connection that 99% of the rest of the products out there use. If you are using, per chance, say a 24mg (2.4%) liquid in a very low powered device and moving up to a bit stronger powered device in the Triton, the 24mg will be a bit harsher, but will allow you to finish the supply you have now, and later down the line step down to an 18 (1.8%) or 12 (1.2%)mg liquid, where a cig-a-like outputs about 3.2 to 3.3v, the Triton (Ego Class) puts out on average about a 3.6 to 3.7volts, this will increase the watts. The watts most times can be determined as voltage X voltage/Ohms=Watts, examples 3.3v X 3.3v/2.0ohms=5.445watts, 3.7v X 3.7v/1.8ohms=7.6056watts, the later will be a bit harsher as more liquid is vaporized and thus more nic per volume of vapor is produced.
Sub-Ohm is in all honesty, any coil resistance below 1.0ohms, sub-ohm is inherently higher watts in output, thus most sub-ohm users cut their liquid nic strength in half down to a quarter what they do a lower watts with a higher ohm coil, example user uses a 12mg in an Ego Class at 1.5ohm coils almost 9watts of power, but if they drop to a 0.75ohm sub-ohm coil at 18 to 20watts power, they will use a 6mg, as they are getting 2x the vapor (2 X 6mg= 12mg exposure per volume). Also safety concern here reading what you posted above, most cig-a-likes and Ego class batteries have about a 5amp max continuous discharge rate, generally a 1.5ohm coil reaches this maximum current rate, using a 0.75ohm coil on such a device you are now at double the amps (10amps) and thus run the risk of overheating the battery and causing a thermal runaway, so do not use a sub-ohm coil on a device not designed for such output, and have to use batteries with a higher amp CDR that can handle that current, thus also it saps the charge twice as fast as you also noted. Sub-ohm is also, most times, not all though, effective with what is call a direct to lung style vaping (D2L), analogy taking a hit off and clearing a water pipe, where a cig-a-like or Ego class is what is called a Mouth To Lung (MTL), similar to sucking on a cig or a straw style vape. This is due to the amount of heat a sub-ohm coil produces needing rapid air movement to keep things bearably cool, also take note that sub-ohm vaping also doubles up to octuples your juice consumption depending on how high the watts are.
The Halo Triton and the Triton II are pretty old technology wise, but they are simple devices, and if you use their liquids as your main juice supply, then yes their liquids will work just fine with their hardware just fine. The Triton line should also work just fine with any other juice vendor out there, the only concern would be the PG and VG carrier liquids ratio, which the Triton line would begin to struggle with a 30PG/70VG ratio actually being designed for a 40PG/60VG to a 80PG/20VG viscosity. Pack a day former smoker a 12mg to 24mg nic content on average would be suggested, would have helped to know the current device you are using to help narrow a lot of this stuff down except for guesses from my end. A little more pricey, but a good investment that has worked for a lot of people, would be for a device setup, if you can find one an Eleaf iStick30Watts or iStick40Watt paired with an Aspire Nautilus/Nautilus Mini/Nautilus 2 tank, the little iStick mods are both internal battery and designed for both sub-ohm, down to 0.5ohm on the iStick30W, the iStick40W has a lower ohm rating, and above ohm vaping being they are variable wattage and can be dialed in to your vaping preference, the Nautilus Tank line is a proud, tried and tested line with adjustable airflow to loosen to tighten the air to your preferences.
Eleaf iSmoka iStick 30W Box Mod Kit - Authentic Eleaf™ - Vapor Authority
Aspire Nautilus MINI (BVC) Glassomizer - Authentic Aspire™ - Vapor Authority
Aspire™ Nautilus 2 Tank - Vapor Authority
Aspire™ Nautilus / Nautilus 2 BVC Replacement Coils / Atomizer Heads <---Replacement coil heads for the Nautilus Line.
The iStick mods use a charging plugin just like an Android Smartphone and have a larger battery just needing one for throughout the day up to 2days on a charge for a chain vaper with a Nautilus or other similar Ohm rating tank.
