We passed some e-mails back and forth, again Eric's response was incredibly fast.
They believe that all the stock has been upgraded on the P67's.
They believe that all the stock has been upgraded on the P67's.
The New Reo P67's Thread
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Thanks for the info people. I did have to do my button a while back due to sticking issues, started making me nervous.
Took a few web searches to find out there was a factory fix, I.E. spring loaded button.
Took a few web searches to find out there was a factory fix, I.E. spring loaded button.
Hi everyone - a couple of things with regards to P67's.
1. All of our stock P67's already have the high-heat plastic inserts (PEEK) and the spring-loaded buttons on them.
2. Since there is some demand for them, I will get our tech guru to load up the P-67 button with spring and the strike plate as replacement parts for the DIY-hooples. Look for the new items in the next day or two. The PEEK insert is already on the site, but currently backordered as we make more of them. I can also swap that stuff out here at the shop if you are adverse to tinkering.
Thanks,
Eric
1. All of our stock P67's already have the high-heat plastic inserts (PEEK) and the spring-loaded buttons on them.
2. Since there is some demand for them, I will get our tech guru to load up the P-67 button with spring and the strike plate as replacement parts for the DIY-hooples. Look for the new items in the next day or two. The PEEK insert is already on the site, but currently backordered as we make more of them. I can also swap that stuff out here at the shop if you are adverse to tinkering.
Thanks,
Eric
Older picture with various atty's on the P67's back when I ran small chamber atty's... 2013 Cyclones, O-16 and Nuppin'.
(Minikin VGOD 120W/Avocado 24)
(Minikin VGOD 120W/Avocado 24)
She was here (from Eric) and than she's gone to a friend 
... I prefer the Grands - and meanwhile much more the Minis
... I prefer the Grands - and meanwhile much more the Minis
A Hadaly with a 316L .7 single wire, best flavor ever, and enough of vapor for me. Like the Odin it will take something earthshaking to get me off this setup.
Early on pic of two of the P67's running drilled out 2013 Cyclones before I switched to big atty's.
I would imagine just like with the grands, that you can remove the wood piece to give em a bath. Just prolly need to be careful with the screw. Dunno but would expect it would strip easily as with the grands. I've taken the one off my grand a few times for a thorough bath.
kewl! you wouldn't be sorry if you got a Reo. They are amazing! and so much easier than dealing with tanks or dripping! What do you use now?
"Spares" are always a good idea on daily/often used vape gear. Especially if your spares do not include extra spares of the mods themselves. Sending a Reo to The Spa and it's return takes time albeit a short time in most cases from what I had always seen posted here in Reoville.
However, the endless Reo parts/accessory spares I acquired ALL still reside in a big divided storage case UNUSED (except for one hot spring on a Grand I dropped early on that was entirely my fault), and the spares were all acquired 1.5 to 3 years ago. IOW, take reasonable care of your Reo, follow a prudent ohms law build routine that will not tax your batteries, DO know what your batteries REAL amp continuous duty rating is (CDR*), do not over do the pit stops on it and it will last a lifetime.
My 4 P67's from the first run have never had any issues with the fire button of anything else, and most of them have seen constant duty in rotations day and night since new. None of them have ever been pit stopped other than cleaning the contacts occasionally, brushing out with an artists brush when needed for what little foreign matter gets in them rarely and wiping them down with a soft cloth if any condensed joose from the atty's gets on them. But then they are never in a dirty environment, nor do I tolerate any joose leaks on/in them either. My newest custom OG P67 has only been in hand since early June, about the time that I went almost exclusively to using my five P67's for 99% of my vaping all day and night every day/night (20 plus hrs out of every 24).
*Many batteries are mislabeled with a higher to way higher amp CDR than what they actually are. So know your batteries true CDR, know your supplier and that they only sell authentic. Safety first with mech mods, especially if your builds are sub ohm and low enough sub ohm to super sub ohm builds that draw higher amps. I only use high drain "honest" 20A, 25A and 32A CDR batteries in my P67's because I mostly run low to very low sub ohm big coil dual builds on them at 40W-100W. All of my builds leave an ample extra safety margin below what the battery being used honest CDR is.
Safety first ALWAYS with mech mods. As mech's go Reos are very safe mods IMO.
I have a couple of other mech mods that are dual series batt (8.4VDC) that probably are the most dangerous mech's made as they come with no safety features and are picky about what atty's can be ran on them. Literally a fragmentation grenade in waiting without the third party safety kits I've had for them since day one. My builds on them hit at 40W-150W (the max for my DLH's on them) for massive dense flavor rich vapor. But some folks hit them at 250W+ with even lower builds. They must have cast iron throats to handle the fiery vapor those builds would make, and fire proof gloves to touch the atty after 2-3 hits.
However, the endless Reo parts/accessory spares I acquired ALL still reside in a big divided storage case UNUSED (except for one hot spring on a Grand I dropped early on that was entirely my fault), and the spares were all acquired 1.5 to 3 years ago. IOW, take reasonable care of your Reo, follow a prudent ohms law build routine that will not tax your batteries, DO know what your batteries REAL amp continuous duty rating is (CDR*), do not over do the pit stops on it and it will last a lifetime.
My 4 P67's from the first run have never had any issues with the fire button of anything else, and most of them have seen constant duty in rotations day and night since new. None of them have ever been pit stopped other than cleaning the contacts occasionally, brushing out with an artists brush when needed for what little foreign matter gets in them rarely and wiping them down with a soft cloth if any condensed joose from the atty's gets on them. But then they are never in a dirty environment, nor do I tolerate any joose leaks on/in them either. My newest custom OG P67 has only been in hand since early June, about the time that I went almost exclusively to using my five P67's for 99% of my vaping all day and night every day/night (20 plus hrs out of every 24).
*Many batteries are mislabeled with a higher to way higher amp CDR than what they actually are. So know your batteries true CDR, know your supplier and that they only sell authentic. Safety first with mech mods, especially if your builds are sub ohm and low enough sub ohm to super sub ohm builds that draw higher amps. I only use high drain "honest" 20A, 25A and 32A CDR batteries in my P67's because I mostly run low to very low sub ohm big coil dual builds on them at 40W-100W. All of my builds leave an ample extra safety margin below what the battery being used honest CDR is.
Safety first ALWAYS with mech mods. As mech's go Reos are very safe mods IMO.
I have a couple of other mech mods that are dual series batt (8.4VDC) that probably are the most dangerous mech's made as they come with no safety features and are picky about what atty's can be ran on them. Literally a fragmentation grenade in waiting without the third party safety kits I've had for them since day one. My builds on them hit at 40W-150W (the max for my DLH's on them) for massive dense flavor rich vapor. But some folks hit them at 250W+ with even lower builds. They must have cast iron throats to handle the fiery vapor those builds would make, and fire proof gloves to touch the atty after 2-3 hits.
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Another older pic I found... P67's with Psyclone Mods SS Kryten and SS Hadaly, Mech Woodvil Jatoba/Ebony with black Hadaly.
I don't buy anything but "authentic" Sony VTC5A's and LG HB6 Pink's now days. By far most of my in daily use batts are VTC5A's that I have a bunch of, and a few of the LG Pink's. But I also have a bunch of Sammy 25R's and LG HG2's as well that I bought before I got into the other two. For 26650 in my one and only mod that can use them (it also has an 18650 insert tube) I just use MXJO 3500mAh batts since that HE DNA75W TC mod always runs the same DIY joose that I don't push hard.
Pretty much none of my hoards of AW button top batteries are used anymore except when I occasionally run a Reo that uses 18490, 14500 or 18350 batts.
First pictures I made of the P67's from the first run when they were received in early March 2016.
One of two BF'd Manta V1-V2 Hybrids.
One of two BF'd Manta V1-V2 Hybrids.
Magpixxx and BF'd Manta V1-V2 Hybrid dressed in remembrance of Pearl's performance at the 1967 Monterey Pop Festival and the Summer of Love in San Francisco.
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