Yeah the delrin cover makes all the difference. Good to know about the heavy contact. Won't be buying it for a friend that is a button masher.. she's been using a oring under the button to prevent her from snapping another contact.
REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk
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Yeah the delrin cover makes all the difference. Good to know about the heavy contact. Won't be buying it for a friend that is a button masher.. she's been using a oring under the button to prevent her from snapping another contact.
Well, I have a problem with a new P67. It will not fire. I have done everything I can do I think other than taking it apart which I am not going to do. I have contacted Eric for his advise, but, am looking for advise from anyone that has had the same problem. The mod is only two weeks old and has required a lot of force on the button since I've had it. I have altered the adj. 510, tried different attys and batteries and cleaned the connections. Just don't know of anything else to do.
Help!!
Help!!
If ya had a multimeter it would tell you if power is getting to the 510 connection or not.
If everything is tight the only way to know what's going on is to take the insert apart and see what's doing inside. Would have to remove the nipple and strike plate to see. The tools (alan key)to do that were supplied with the mod.
If the button is pushing the positive contact and it's touching the strike plate then the only thing else I can think of is that the positive contact isint tight I side the insert.
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Here's the p67 maintenance video that rob did long ago which shows to how take it apart.. pretty simple really and you can see what's under the insert as for connections that may be loose.. but if the prob lies in the button you'll have to remove the insert anyways to get to the button.
The button in this video is the original style that's now updated with a spring so I don't know how different it is to remove since I don't have the new style button.
The button in this video is the original style that's now updated with a spring so I don't know how different it is to remove since I don't have the new style button.
The spring loaded button is easy enough to take apart. With the rigid right angled positive contact plate removed off the 510 feed tube, just push the button in, slide a small straight slot screwdriver into the groove that will become viable and gently pry the button apart. It is just press fitted into the button. Be careful not to over bend the spring contact it pushes as it comes apart, or loose the spring.
Clear as mud right... what-ya expect when I haven't had any sleep for 3 days.
Clear as mud right... what-ya expect when I haven't had any sleep for 3 days.
I got some magnets from K&J. You are right, those babies got some grab to them.
i've always used flat top batteries in my grand and i use a magnet on top - not a weedy little Reo door magnet, but a really sticky neo from K&J Magnetics. As a lung-burning button masher, i have used this arrangement for about 4 years and i also modified the fire button by using a rivet head epoxied to the bottom of it to stop it melting!
Naturally, none of this is recommended practice, but if you buy reputable batteries and care for them, then you can really get some great performance. There is even a mod for a Reo that Custom Classic does, so you dispense with the spring entirely and use a solid silver bolt
i use 30A batteries, so the mAh is lower than a lot of the others 2200 usually. So they don't last long at full blast - but i can get a work day easily from them. i use 3mm RxW and a 0.3Ω Clapton.
T
Which magnet is best for our purposes? I logged in to K&J but they got a ton of magnets.
6mm or 6.5mm diameter x 1mm thick are perfect for Grands, to put on flat top batteries.
Same thing happened to me, ended up sending it in and Rob fixed it, no charge. He never did tell me what was wrong, it works great now though.
I had a problem with one of mine, when I converted it to the spring loaded button. I used just a tad too much thread sealant on the 510, where the tube nipple screws on to; and some excess got in between the strike plate and the connection. So, it wouldn't fire. I took it back apart, cleaned the excess off, put it back together, and it's worked perfectly ever since.
Thanks for the vid Steam. It was very helpful. I took everything apart and put it back together but with no luck. Still not firing. I guess the positive post or the positive plate are bad. Back to Reo Mods or they send me the positive post and positive plate. The volt meter shows no power to the 510 connection.
Still haven't heard from Eric. He is probably busier than a one armed paper hanger with the hives.
@oldfolks Have you tried raising the grub screw in the 510 - clockwise =up counter clockwise = down.
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More than a few times! Thanks for the suggestion.
Rule, there is some white stuff right where the strike plate and the tube nipple attaches to the positive post. I didn't consider that as a cause of the non-fire because it has been there since I got the mod and it was firing when I first got it.
I guess I better take it apart again and try to clean that stuff off. Thanks for your story.
Very possibly that's the problem. Take the screwed tube nipple off, with a pair of needle nose pliers. Clean it, and the male threads on the 510 off real well, and reassemble. When using the teflon paste thread sealant, you just use a teeny tiny dot on the end of a toothpick. Because when you screw the hose nipple back on, the excess will work its way back out, and get between it and the strike plate, causing a poor electrical connection.
The white stuff is TFE Paste, it is suppose to be there. Rob put it there to help seal the 510 tubes threaded connection.
Yes but if there's too much to where it's preventing the metals from making a electrical connection then that's a problem. Though they did mention there was some on the strike plate that was possibly preventing contact.
Rob did say just a little bit of the sealant on the threads.
Rob did say just a little bit of the sealant on the threads.
It is supposed to be there, yes, down inside the threaded connection, on the threads. But not up on the shoulder of the tube nipple, where it comes into contact with the strike plate.
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