How do YOU clean your joyetech ego-t tanks / cartridges
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I disasemble them to bits and pieces into the sieve and run a hot water over. Then just drop them on a napkin to dry.
I do that every 10-15 days.
It is advisable to get those silicon caps for tanks 'cause original plastic ones start to leak after awhile.
I do that every 10-15 days.
It is advisable to get those silicon caps for tanks 'cause original plastic ones start to leak after awhile.
sorry i dont use ego tanks, but i use 510-t tanks instead.. so this is more of a bump then anything.
but to clean mine i keep a spare blunt syringe, fill it with hot water and squirt it inside the tank.
had to do this lots after filling a lot of tanks with a flavour i ended up not liking at all, and it wouldnt shift even with new juice.
raspberry coconut ice flavoured everything got boring after a while. a very short while.
but to clean mine i keep a spare blunt syringe, fill it with hot water and squirt it inside the tank.
had to do this lots after filling a lot of tanks with a flavour i ended up not liking at all, and it wouldnt shift even with new juice.
raspberry coconut ice flavoured everything got boring after a while. a very short while.
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I either use "A novel way to clean an atty" or if I think that the atty is way dirty and I'm feeling adventurous I go for Vicky's complete dissassembly and dry-burn method, I've had to replace wicks a bunch of times so proceed at your own risk 
I have also boiled an atty that I felt was clean but had a persistent coconut flavor in it I wanted to get rid of.
I don't bother with letting it sit overnight etc if I'm just cleaning with water, just give em a good thermometer shaker and puffs a bit before inhaling.. I'm not very patient
I used to do a PGA soak but when the paint came off a pair of my attys I decided it was too much.. now I only do one if I want to get a chrome atty or battery out of it, not for cleaning
I have also boiled an atty that I felt was clean but had a persistent coconut flavor in it I wanted to get rid of.
I don't bother with letting it sit overnight etc if I'm just cleaning with water, just give em a good thermometer shaker and puffs a bit before inhaling.. I'm not very patient
I used to do a PGA soak but when the paint came off a pair of my attys I decided it was too much.. now I only do one if I want to get a chrome atty or battery out of it, not for cleaning
when it gets in there, it sure doesnt want to let go!
i boiled my atties (haha that sounds like a perversion) and there was still a faint hint of coconut left in there. .......n coconut, i used to like it.
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Took me a bunch of boiling but it's finally out (think I boiled 3-4 times back to back, 10min boils with water changes in between) but I wont be doing that again.. lesson learned! A carto just for coconuts.. unfortunately I still love it :-/
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ah, we've both learned from the indestructible coconut experience...
i bought a 510 atomizer and a drip tip for a spare 510-t. if the liquids evil it doesnt end up in a tank
i bought a 510 atomizer and a drip tip for a spare 510-t. if the liquids evil it doesnt end up in a tank
ah, we've both learned from the indestructible coconut experience...
i bought a 510 atomizer and a drip tip for a spare 510-t. if the liquids evil it doesnt end up in a tank
I did the same thing. I have an espresso flavor that won't go away..
You can just blow them out regularly and do a more thorough cleaning when they really get gunked up. An ultrasonic jewelry cleaner is nice for cleaning. You can use Everclear or isopropyl alchol to clean them in. You need to make sure the isopropyl alcohol has evaporated before using the atomizer, but it evaporates faster than water. Everclear, if you can get it, is sort of vapable.
Can you clean a 510-T atomizer pretty much the same way? I've had mine for about a month and haven't given it a thorough cleaning yet. I typically run through 2 batteries a day if that gives any indication on how frequently I use it.
Everything seems to be running fine still, but that may just be me gradually getting used to it being too dirty. I'm afraid of messing up the wick inside.
Everything seems to be running fine still, but that may just be me gradually getting used to it being too dirty. I'm afraid of messing up the wick inside.
I do 2 sorts of cleaning for both the atties and the tanks: quick, and deep-clean.
On the quick-clean:
For the tanks, I take a q-tip and swab out the mouth-piece-chamber-place, and take a napkin to the mouthpiece-thingie. If I decide to change flavors in the tank, then I'll take napkin to the juice reservoir (Usually I just top off; if you diy, these bottles fit right in the wick-hole, so you don't have to remove the cap at all: 4 Dram Amber Glass Vial w/ Dropper) + 1 on the silcone caps suggestion; you can get both the type a's and b's from MVS: Soft Cap for Ego-Tank Cartridge - 10/Pack.
For the atty, I'll remove the wick-plate, do a dry-burn, take a lighter to the wick to burn off the excess juice, prime the atty and the wick, and that's that. Also, as part of changing tanks, I'll put a napkin to the outside of the tank and inside of the cone from time to time, and also the connection from the atty to the batt. Sometimes, I use alcohol on the connection to clean it.
On the deep-clean:
I dry-burn the atty, and then run it in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for 9 minutes: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rasonic-cleaning-atomizers-very-best-way.html I'll re-fabricate the wick: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ego-type-models/169520-simplecjs-ego-t-wick-mod.html (on the wick mod, you want to use way less silica than pictured, and I've had success with minimizing the PTB, as well-- or rather, lots of failure by using too much ptb
; it takes a bit to get the hang of it, but then it's good). I'll then throw the tanks in for a round at the ultrasonic, disassembling them entirely; I just use cheapo vodka for the cleaning agent, changing it every now and again. I let the atty sit to dry for some 48 hours before priming and reassembly.
On dry-burning: Never with the wick in, because the juice build-up can fuse the wick to the coil, creating an adventure with tweezers! (though I've found this to also happen with the stock wick on the genuine atties, 3 out of 4 of 'em, just with regular use...) Also, I find it good to take a napkin and blot up the juice around the coil, by rolling it up long-wise, and stuffing it down the cone, to the coil. That silver stuff down there seems to hold juice, which makes it take much longer to get to a good dry-burn at the coil. I have a teenie-tiny screwdriver that I use to scrape off some of the build-up from the coil if it's real bad-- you want to be careful, though: I had a piece of debris fall into the air-hole once, and it clogged that atty real good That was with a non-genuine atty though, which had bigger air-holes; the genuine products are clearly designed differently, and seem superior. For my part, I don't intend on buying a knock-off atty ever again (but I've found that even the genuine product benefits from making fresh wicks; but if you're not into tinkering and fiddling, I wouldn't recommend messing with that, because there's definitely a tedious learning-curve involved with that one-- but once you've solved it, it's solved).
As with any maintenance routine, YMMV
Hope this helps!
p.s.: I use distilled water for everything vaping, to avoid calcification and whatnot of the equipment.
On the quick-clean:
For the tanks, I take a q-tip and swab out the mouth-piece-chamber-place, and take a napkin to the mouthpiece-thingie. If I decide to change flavors in the tank, then I'll take napkin to the juice reservoir (Usually I just top off; if you diy, these bottles fit right in the wick-hole, so you don't have to remove the cap at all: 4 Dram Amber Glass Vial w/ Dropper) + 1 on the silcone caps suggestion; you can get both the type a's and b's from MVS: Soft Cap for Ego-Tank Cartridge - 10/Pack.
For the atty, I'll remove the wick-plate, do a dry-burn, take a lighter to the wick to burn off the excess juice, prime the atty and the wick, and that's that. Also, as part of changing tanks, I'll put a napkin to the outside of the tank and inside of the cone from time to time, and also the connection from the atty to the batt. Sometimes, I use alcohol on the connection to clean it.
On the deep-clean:
I dry-burn the atty, and then run it in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for 9 minutes: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rasonic-cleaning-atomizers-very-best-way.html I'll re-fabricate the wick: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ego-type-models/169520-simplecjs-ego-t-wick-mod.html (on the wick mod, you want to use way less silica than pictured, and I've had success with minimizing the PTB, as well-- or rather, lots of failure by using too much ptb
; it takes a bit to get the hang of it, but then it's good). I'll then throw the tanks in for a round at the ultrasonic, disassembling them entirely; I just use cheapo vodka for the cleaning agent, changing it every now and again. I let the atty sit to dry for some 48 hours before priming and reassembly.On dry-burning: Never with the wick in, because the juice build-up can fuse the wick to the coil, creating an adventure with tweezers! (though I've found this to also happen with the stock wick on the genuine atties, 3 out of 4 of 'em, just with regular use...) Also, I find it good to take a napkin and blot up the juice around the coil, by rolling it up long-wise, and stuffing it down the cone, to the coil. That silver stuff down there seems to hold juice, which makes it take much longer to get to a good dry-burn at the coil. I have a teenie-tiny screwdriver that I use to scrape off some of the build-up from the coil if it's real bad-- you want to be careful, though: I had a piece of debris fall into the air-hole once, and it clogged that atty real good
That was with a non-genuine atty though, which had bigger air-holes; the genuine products are clearly designed differently, and seem superior. For my part, I don't intend on buying a knock-off atty ever again (but I've found that even the genuine product benefits from making fresh wicks; but if you're not into tinkering and fiddling, I wouldn't recommend messing with that, because there's definitely a tedious learning-curve involved with that one-- but once you've solved it, it's solved).As with any maintenance routine, YMMV
Hope this helps!p.s.: I use distilled water for everything vaping, to avoid calcification and whatnot of the equipment.
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I do 2 sorts of cleaning for both the atties and the tanks: quick, and deep-clean.
On the quick-clean:
For the tanks, I take a q-tip and swab out the mouth-piece-chamber-place, and take a napkin to the mouthpiece-thingie. If I decide to change flavors in the tank, then I'll take napkin to the juice reservoir (Usually I just top off; if you diy, these bottles fit right in the wick-hole, so you don't have to remove the cap at all: 4 Dram Amber Glass Vial w/ Dropper) + 1 on the silcone caps suggestion; you can get both the type a's and b's from MVS: Soft Cap for Ego-Tank Cartridge - 10/Pack.
For the atty, I'll remove the wick-plate, do a dry-burn, take a lighter to the wick to burn off the excess juice, prime the atty and the wick, and that's that. Also, as part of changing tanks, I'll put a napkin to the outside of the tank and inside of the cone from time to time, and also the connection from the atty to the batt. Sometimes, I use alcohol on the connection to clean it.
On the deep-clean:
I dry-burn the atty, and then run it in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for 9 minutes: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rasonic-cleaning-atomizers-very-best-way.html I'll re-fabricate the wick: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ego-type-models/169520-simplecjs-ego-t-wick-mod.html (on the wick mod, you want to use way less silica than pictured, and I've had success with minimizing the PTB, as well-- or rather, lots of failure by using too much ptb
On dry-burning: Never with the wick in, because the juice build-up can fuse the wick to the coil, creating an adventure with tweezers! (though I've found this to also happen with the stock wick on the genuine atties, 3 out of 4 of 'em, just with regular use...) Also, I find it good to take a napkin and blot up the juice around the coil, by rolling it up long-wise, and stuffing it down the cone, to the coil. That silver stuff down there seems to hold juice, which makes it take much longer to get to a good dry-burn at the coil. I have a teenie-tiny screwdriver that I use to scrape off some of the build-up from the coil if it's real bad-- you want to be careful, though: I had a piece of debris fall into the air-hole once, and it clogged that atty real good
As with any maintenance routine, YMMV
p.s.: I use distilled water for everything vaping, to avoid calcification and whatnot of the equipment.
Thank you for an extremely in depth and well thought out response. This is by far the best information I have read about the care & maintenance of eGo-T's. The links are great. I am going to order the droppers and soft caps tonight. Which jewelry cleaning do you use? Also, do you use vodka in the jewelry cleaner like the other article recommends or distilled water (for everything vapor)?
-john
I got my cleaner on ebay; the key is to get the right frequency which Texan recommends in that thread: between 40-50kHz. Make sure in the specs from wherever you end up getting it, that the cycles/second frequency is listed. The one I got is 42kHz, Hammacher Schlemmer is the brand (I think I paid like $35 for it), and does nicely-- and does teeth, and electric razor heads great, too!
In the cleaner, I use straight vodka for the atties. The highest-proof, lowest-priced I can find. People have said that water works, but, there's something reassuring about getting some sort of solvent in there, ya know? But make sure to dry-burn first; the ultrasonic won't get the gunked up carmelized stuff off of the coil.
If I do any rinsing of tanks, or when I'm doing diy, and tending to that equipment, or anything at all where I need water on my vaping set-up, or in the mix for the juice, I go for distilled water. Where I live now, the water's pretty... shall we say... fortified with minerals
So, seeing how well the tap-water out here cakes up the sinks, toilets, showers and whatnot, I decided that I don't want that anywhere near any of my vaping equipment.
Cheers
In the cleaner, I use straight vodka for the atties. The highest-proof, lowest-priced I can find. People have said that water works, but, there's something reassuring about getting some sort of solvent in there, ya know? But make sure to dry-burn first; the ultrasonic won't get the gunked up carmelized stuff off of the coil.
If I do any rinsing of tanks, or when I'm doing diy, and tending to that equipment, or anything at all where I need water on my vaping set-up, or in the mix for the juice, I go for distilled water. Where I live now, the water's pretty... shall we say... fortified with minerals
So, seeing how well the tap-water out here cakes up the sinks, toilets, showers and whatnot, I decided that I don't want that anywhere near any of my vaping equipment.Cheers
I like simple, so I do it simple. Using an ego T type A atomizer and tank. I have two atomizers that I rotate. Once a weekend, I swap them out. The one that needs cleaning gets soaked for 15 or 20 minutes or so in isopropyl alcohol. Several times while it's soaking I'll pull it out, let it drain, drop it back in. I use a sort of shot glass that's not a lot bigger around or taller than it is.
Once it's soaked a bit, I pull it out, blow through it to clear most of the extra liquid, and then put it away. I'm not going to use it until the next weekend, so it has about a week to dry, plenty of time. (I've been told it should get 48 hours minimum.) It gets "stored" in the same block of wood that I use to hold the ego and other misc stuff. It's just a 2x4 with a bunch of holes drilled in it. 9/16" is the right size, if I remember right. Keeps stuff from rolling around on the desk, and if anything drips or leaks, it doesn't get on the desk.
The next weekend, I swap them again.
Eventually, I expect to have two atomizers going at any given time, and two more which have been cleaned and are drying.
Once it's soaked a bit, I pull it out, blow through it to clear most of the extra liquid, and then put it away. I'm not going to use it until the next weekend, so it has about a week to dry, plenty of time. (I've been told it should get 48 hours minimum.) It gets "stored" in the same block of wood that I use to hold the ego and other misc stuff. It's just a 2x4 with a bunch of holes drilled in it. 9/16" is the right size, if I remember right. Keeps stuff from rolling around on the desk, and if anything drips or leaks, it doesn't get on the desk.
The next weekend, I swap them again.
Eventually, I expect to have two atomizers going at any given time, and two more which have been cleaned and are drying.
Does anyone have a good suggestion for anything besides vodka/grain alcohol for the jewelry cleaner? Lets just say that cigarettes aren't the first thing I quit using..
Isopropyl alchohol works. I sniff the atomizers and tentatively suck on them to ensure the stuff has completely evaporated before priming them with juice and popping them on my PV. They dry a lot quicker than when I just use hot water, but I find I still have to leave them overnight.
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