Testing the mah rating

Status
Not open for further replies.

Eddie.Willers

ECF Wiki SysOp
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 3, 2011
1,373
567
Prairie Canada
Well, there's no easy way - that's for sure.

The rating is an expression of the amount of time it takes to drain a battery by using a known load. It should be do-able but finicky.

Do a thread search - I seem to recall some time back there was a suggestion that one could get a rough idea by firing an atty of known resistance in 5 second bursts and counting these 'pulses' until the battery worked no more.
 

stephpd

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 24, 2011
425
199
Delaware

zoiDman

My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 16, 2010
41,314
1
83,830
So-Cal
Well, there's no easy way - that's for sure.

The rating is an expression of the amount of time it takes to drain a battery by using a known load. It should be do-able but finicky.

Do a thread search - I seem to recall some time back there was a suggestion that one could get a rough idea by firing an atty of known resistance in 5 second bursts and counting these 'pulses' until the battery worked no more.

That is pretty much it, operate it under load over a period of time to see if the math works.

But I thought that was some of the Mystery to mAh.

What load is it being tested under and does Everyone use the Same Load when they come up with their mAh Rating?
 

DarkAynjil

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 23, 2011
135
22
47
El Paso
But I thought that was some of the Mystery to mAh.

What load is it being tested under and does Everyone use the Same Load when they come up with their mAh Rating?


Actually, to determine the amp-hour (or in this case, milliamp-hour) rating of a battery all you need to know is how much current the battery supplied (in amps) over what time (in hours). Having a known resistance in this circuit doesn't help you, because the voltage will drop as the battery discharges, thus any calculation you make with ohm's law will not be accurate.

For determining the ACTUAL mah of your battery, I would reccomend you fire the battery with your meter in dc current mode, leads in series with the circuit over a 2 ohm resistor, and time it. That would get you close.
For truly accurate capacity measurement a low resistance bar of known resistance per square mm (also called a shunt) is preferred - however this is not advisable with Lithium-Ion batteries, unless you have a very controlled lab set up.

Hope that helps.
 

cskent

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Jul 24, 2010
3,698
477
Ohio
To test the mah rating you'd have to put a fully charged battery under a known load until it is completely drained. An eGo battery, or a protected battery of any type will cut off when the voltage drops to a pre-set level. Therefore, you'd have to remove the protection circuit in order to test this type of cell. That wouldn't be adviseable with a li-ion cell.

As an example, if you start with a 1000 mah battery at full charge and put a 10 mah drain on it, it should take 100 hours to completely discharge. If it takes 80 hours, well you've got an 800 mah battery instead of a 1000 mah.

That's the theory anyway. Other factors can influence your reading such as temperature, or age of the cell.
 

zoiDman

My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 16, 2010
41,314
1
83,830
So-Cal
... Having a known resistance in this circuit doesn't help you, because the voltage will drop as the battery discharges, thus any calculation you make with ohm's law will not be accurate. ...

Hope that helps.

Thanks, it does.

Yeah, that’s where those God Awful Differential Equations come in.

Since the Voltage Rate of Change from say 4.2v ~ 3.3 volts is Non-Linear, the Dif-Eq will probably be Nasty at Best.


To test the mah rating you'd have to put a fully charged battery under a known load until it is completely drained. An eGo battery, or a protected battery of any type will cut off when the voltage drops to a pre-set level. Therefore, you'd have to remove the protection circuit in order to test this type of cell. That wouldn't be adviseable with a li-ion cell.

As an example, if you start with a 1000 mah battery at full charge and put a 10 mah drain on it, it should take 100 hours to completely discharge. If it takes 80 hours, well you've got an 800 mah battery instead of a 1000 mah.

That's the theory anyway. Other factors can influence your reading such as temperature, or age of the cell.

So If the Same 1,000 mAh Battery was tested at 20 mAh, would the Discharge time be Exactly one half the time of what it was when tested at 10 mAh?

If it does then I think I'm getting this.

I guess I should have paid more Attention in those EE classes instead of checking out the Undergrad next to me in the Short Skirts back in the 70’s.
 

zoiDman

My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 16, 2010
41,314
1
83,830
So-Cal
There is the aspect of the chemical power source dropping off the E as it discharges but other wise it is straight math with a known load and time.

If I'm understanding this correctly.

The Straight math part is put a Constant Load on the Battery and then Time how long it takes the Battery to go from Full Charge to Full Discharge.

Then Multiply the mAh times the number of Hours

Correct?
 

stephpd

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 24, 2011
425
199
Delaware
If I'm understanding this correctly.

The Straight math part is put a Constant Load on the Battery and then Time how long it takes the Battery to go from Full Charge to Full Discharge.

Then Multiply the mAh times the number of Hours

Correct?

Yep.
Works the same way from fully discharged to fully charged too.
Charging there's a constant voltage and current up until the very end, when the light starts blinking.
But at that point the battery is close to 95% charged. (or somewhere around there.)
 

Duekster

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2011
220
60
Texas
1000 mAh = 1000 hours X 1 mAh load or 1 hour X 1000 mAh load.

Using the charge method would likely be the easiest way as suggested I suspect you will put in more charge than you get out just because nothing is 100% efficient.

Also batteries do decline with increased cycles and the number of cycles they can handle is determined by chemistry and how hot the charger ( rapid charging) is refilling.
 

zoiDman

My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 16, 2010
41,314
1
83,830
So-Cal
Yes, this is true. As a Battery is used more and more, it's mAh will decline.

BTW - I didn't want to imply that the Math was Difficult in Determining the Total mAh a Battery may have. Multiplying a mAh times a given amount of time seems pretty Straight Forward.

But what if you would like to Determine when a Battery Reaches 75% of its Maximum Capacity? Or it output Voltage at Any given time between Fully Charged and Fully Discharged?
 

Duekster

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2011
220
60
Texas
Yes, this is true. As a Battery is used more and more, it's mAh will decline.

BTW - I didn't want to imply that the Math was Difficult in Determining the Total mAh a Battery may have. Multiplying a mAh times a given amount of time seems pretty Straight Forward.

But what if you would like to Determine when a Battery Reaches 75% of its Maximum Capacity? Or it output Voltage at Any given time between Fully Charged and Fully Discharged?

I am going to know the battery is in decline when I have to swap them more but my juice use is the same.
 

DarkAynjil

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 23, 2011
135
22
47
El Paso
Thanks, it does.

Yeah, that’s where those God Awful Differential Equations come in.

Since the Voltage Rate of Change from say 4.2v ~ 3.3 volts is Non-Linear, the Dif-Eq will probably be Nasty at Best.




So If the Same 1,000 mAh Battery was tested at 20 mAh, would the Discharge time be Exactly one half the time of what it was when tested at 10 mAh?

If it does then I think I'm getting this.




I guess I should have paid more Attention in those EE classes instead of checking out the Undergrad next to me in the Short Skirts back in the 70’s.

Yes, you are correct. It's always important to remember when dealing with batteries that voltage is roughly indicative of charge level. Since batteries don't have built-in current limiting other than internal resistance, it's also best to be very careful when shunting them (with a load-tester on your car battery, for example).

Me too. I'd be able to explain it all better if I could remember all the math.
 

zoiDman

My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 16, 2010
41,314
1
83,830
So-Cal
...

Me too. I'd be able to explain it all better if I could remember all the math.

I hear you.

I was looking thru an old Dif-Eq book last night that had a lot of Circuit Problems in it.

The Concepts came back Very Fast but doing the Calculus wasn't as easy as it was 20 years ago.
 

DarkAynjil

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 23, 2011
135
22
47
El Paso
And then there's still the problem of Ego type batteries not fully discharging.
When voltage gets to a certain point they stop working and the light flashes.

True. However, almost every lithium-ion battery has this built in circuit to shut the battery off at a threshold voltage, for safety, and to preserve the battery from reaching an "unchargeable" state.

AW IMR's seem to be an exception - I have drained them to around 2.0 volts accidentally, they would have kept supplying current if I had kept hitting the fire button. IMR's typically don't have the circuit protection built-in, and are often sold as "unprotected".
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread