OK so as some of you know I am getting a provari, my first VV-mod. I've been searching the net and have come accross contradicting information. You cannot use LR on the provari, correct? I was planning on getting the cisco HH .357 510 atty. That is a LR atty? Or do I need to get it at a higher ohms (3.0-3.5) to be able to use it with the provari. Or does the provari only use regular atty's?
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The provari operates as low as 3V I believe. That doesn't really matter. The point is to match the resistance of the atomizer/cart/whatever to the voltage range of the provari. Most juices will start to get burny at 5.0V on a 1.5 ohm.
Now, the HH .357 is available in a number of ohms (1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0). The mid values would be more suited to the voltage range of a Provari. YMMV.
Best of Luck. You're going straight for the good stuff and that's pretty smart.
The provari operates as low as 3V I believe. That doesn't really matter. The point is to match the resistance of the atomizer/cart/whatever to the voltage range of the provari. Most juices will start to get burny at 5.0V on a 1.5 ohm.
Now, the HH .357 is available in a number of ohms (1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0). The mid values would be more suited to the voltage range of a Provari. YMMV.
Best of Luck. You're going straight for the good stuff and that's pretty smart.
It's not that you can't use them on the provari. It's that you won't be able to take it much higher than 5 volts at 1.5 ohm. I have used some of my left over 1.5 dc cartos without any issues, granted I only use them at around 4.4 volts as that's my sweet spot for my use of them. They have 3.5 amp limit so the 1.5 ohm atties/cartos wil be somewhat limited is all.
The provari wont let you burn it. Using a 1.5 ohm cart my provari errors if I try to take it over 4.7 volts
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Ok thanks guys, it gets pretty confusing to a new user to VV vaping. So 2-3 ohms would be better for the provari then. And yea after 1+ years of buying cheap ego's and 510's im gonna finally bite the bullet and buy top shelf products. I'm usually an enthusiast when it comes to stuff like this, I just spent 2500 on a new PC a couple of months ago but I couldn't bring myself to spend more than 20 bucks on a pv. Man I could of had 2-3 provari's if I started buying them since the beginning lol.
If you are getting a V2 Provari you can take the 1.5ohm atty far hotter than you would want to use it (3.5a limit instead of 2.5a limit) The real question is why would you want to use a LR atty? LR atties and cartos are designed for those that don't have the power to run SR. You will get far better performance using atties and cartos in the 2.5-3.0ohm range with your Provari.
3 ohm is actually about perfect for most people, in that at 6 volts and 3 ohm you are maxing out the PV at 12 watts, which is the limit past which most people find things too burnt tasting to use. So with a 3 ohm, you'll get a really nice "sweet" range, starting from 4.9 volts at 8 watts, all the way up to the 12 watts at 6. Some people like it a little hotter than 12 watts, so you might want to try one of the 2.5 ohm ones as well, as they can be pushed up to 14.4 watts.
as an FYi, the Provari V2 has a 3.5amp switch and runs between 2.9v-6.0v. heat wise you can get the same "power" (heat or wattage) using 1.5ohm@ 3.7v as you can with 3.0ohm@5.2v (~9.1watts = power = heat). Big difference is that with the 3.0ohm device every 0.1v change = ~0.2watts difference in power where as the 1.5 ohm device 0.1v change = ~0.43watts difference in power. Most folks like the higher resistance because you have a much finer ability to tune in to your vaping preference.
I'm still using up LR stuff from my 3.7v fat batt days and they work great on the Provari. I only buy 3.0 ohm now, but I guess I'll need to get a Provari mini now as a back-up 
. I'm going to get a couple H.357's when my 1.8 Cisco 306's die (the damn things won't quit, been using them for months...). Even in my DCT tanks I'm running self-punched Boge 3.0 std length with a long barrel drip tip @5.5v (kits like a mule). Next cool gadget has got to be a surge tank
. I'm going to get a couple H.357's when my 1.8 Cisco 306's die (the damn things won't quit, been using them for months...). Even in my DCT tanks I'm running self-punched Boge 3.0 std length with a long barrel drip tip @5.5v (kits like a mule). Next cool gadget has got to be a surge tank
Another quick tip I picked up in the Provari forum: stick any device on it, check the resistance and add 2 volts as a starting point. Takes out all the guess work, is simple and accounts for variations in device spec.
Nice tip there Cloud Wizard. Im also thinking about getting a hh357, although i have never dripped before and i see the whole process of dripping as too messy for my likes but i hope that the benefits outweigh all the fiddling. I dont know though what is the best resistance to choose for the hh357 and provari. 2,5ohms is good?
I'm going with the 3.0's on everything now. At 2.5ohm the wattage change (per 0.1v increment) = ~0.3watts (power). At 3.0ohm, the power change is ~0.2watts. I have really become used to the finer control and like being able to tune it in exactly to where it's best for me. The Provari goes up to 6.0v, 3.0ohm@6.0v=12watts which for me is a bit above my "sweet spot" of 8-10 watts so I have plenty of swing room for my tastes. At 2.5ohms you could get up to 14.4watts, but that's too warm for me.
I get it, but with the 3.0ohm wouldnt you have to be all the time above 5v and drain ur batteries faster? I want to get the best balance of battery life/good taste and th. Can juices taste good and have good vapor with 3.0ohm at lower volts? You are saying that your sweet spot is at 8-10watts, that means you use 3.0ohms at 3-3.3 volts?
I'm usually between 5.0v (8.33 watts@3.0ohm) and 5.5v (10.08 watts @ 3.0 ohm). Someone may be able to explain better, but I actually get about 1 full day at LR and 2 days at SR. I'm using Panny 2250 High Drains. I think it is because at 3.0ohm/5.0v-5.5v I'm drawing 1.7mA to 1.8mA where as at 2.5ohm the same power range would pull 1.8mA to 2.0mA current.
I think I found the answer (What is difference between current and voltage? - Yahoo! Answers)
What is difference between current and voltage?
Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
They are exactly analogous to water pressure and water flow through a hose. That's why flowing electrons is called a current, just like a water current.
Voltage is the electromotive force (the force to move electricity) that wants to push electrons through a wire the way that water pressure (which we could call the hydromotive force by analogy) is the force that wants to push water molecules through a hose.
The wire and the hose each offer resistance to the force. Less resistance or more pressure (force) means more flow, whether that be gallons/minute of water or amperes of current.
Should've probably included that I'm a 3ml-4ml a day vaper. Usually go through a 3.5ml tank and a drip session in the evening.
What is difference between current and voltage?
Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
They are exactly analogous to water pressure and water flow through a hose. That's why flowing electrons is called a current, just like a water current.
Voltage is the electromotive force (the force to move electricity) that wants to push electrons through a wire the way that water pressure (which we could call the hydromotive force by analogy) is the force that wants to push water molecules through a hose.
The wire and the hose each offer resistance to the force. Less resistance or more pressure (force) means more flow, whether that be gallons/minute of water or amperes of current.
Should've probably included that I'm a 3ml-4ml a day vaper. Usually go through a 3.5ml tank and a drip session in the evening.
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i dont have a provari, im using a vtube which is vv and i just ordered a LR ce2 clearomizer from got vapes. will i be running into any problems with these ones?
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