Cleaning: Alcohol vs Vodka

[paddymx]

I understand that you would not want to use rubbing alcohol to dilute ejuice, but, what about cleaning only.

64oz. 99% ISP(rubbing alcohol) = $5.16
59oz. Vodka (40%/80 proof) = $13.00

Any information/opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Patrick

 

[mostlyclassics]

I've used 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean attys, cartos and Stardusts with no problems for over a year now.

Two caveats:

1. Do not use denatured alcohol! Denatured alcohol is booze alcohol with poisons added to keep it from being drunk. After the alcohol evaporates, these poisons remain as toxins. Use USP-grade isopropyl alcohol you can buy at a pharmacy.
2. Be certain that vaping hardware on which you've used isopropyl alcohol is competely dry.

Both Everclear (90%+ grain alcohol) and 91% isopropyl alcohol seem to be equally efficacious, in my experience. Eighty-proof vodka (40% grain alcohol) doesn't seem to work quite as well, but the difference is minor.

 

[paddymx]

mostlyclassics,

Thanks for the response. Good to know. Big $$$ difference. BTW, after calling the ABC store, Everclear is $34 for 59 oz. BIG BIG savings

Patrick

Edit: Got the isopropyl from the smiley face, but, USP-grade no where on the bottle. Got it from the pharmacy. Is it safe to assume...

 

[bigpman]

I bought my 91% iso from CVS and have been using it for almost 2 months without any issues. Like mostlyclassics said, as long as it evaporates all the way, and is from the pharmacy, you should be good to go.

The lesser percentages sometimes have oils in them. Take some of your iso and pour onto a clean, solid, surface. Let it evaporate and wipe the surface with a clean cloth. There should be no residue left on the cloth.

 

[paddymx]

bigpman...,Cool..Will try CVS next time. My bottle seems to have air leaks. When I squeeze the bottle I can hear the air hiss! Also, mine has a red label. My 70% does say "USP" but has a blue label. Their website doesn't even show 91%. Even if it is USP, don't like the bottle hiss!

 

[bigpman]

A bottle hiss....hmmm...I can see the iso evaporating fairly fast with a leak in the bottle. I would most likely not use that bottle either.

Stay clear of the 70%, it will most likely have other ingredients than iso and water (from what I have seen). stick to 91% or above, if you can even find more than 91%...

bigpman...,Cool..Will try CVS next time. My bottle seems to have air leaks. When I squeeze the bottle I can hear the air hiss! Also, mine has a red label. My 70% does say "USP" but has a blue label. Their website doesn't even show 91%. Even if it is USP, don't like the bottle hiss!

 

[paddymx]

bigpman,

Hiss probably by design! The hiss is coming from the lid, but, it had one of those metallic seals under the cap. Transfered to another drained 70% bottle with no hiss. Still going to try CVS, maybe it will say "USP". Even though the smiley face said distributed from TN, we all know where they get most of their stuff from! Going to town tomorrow anyway so.... If not CVS maybe another will have proper labeling. Sometimes its a ..... to be a type A personality.

 

[mostlyclassics]

The lesser percentages sometimes have oils in them. Take some of your iso and pour onto a clean, solid, surface. Let it evaporate and wipe the surface with a clean cloth. There should be no residue left on the cloth.

Excellent test, bigpman!

 

[bigpman]

thanks, sometimes my brain works wonders but only on rare occasions

Excellent test, bigpman!

 

[wendallb]

Vinegar works well for cleaning also as well as peroxide..

 

[paddymx]

Just got back from town re:CVS. They basically had the same RED label 91%,(NO USP) BUT, their bottle had a screw tight top where the smiley face's bottle had one of those designed for squirting like salad dressing. Asked the pharmacist and he said it was probably safe to assume it was USP because of the 91%. So for 64oz. it will cost an additional $ .49 to have an air tight bottle

Patrick

 

[bigpman]

I am thinking 91% is 91%, as long as you get it from a reputable source. When in doubt, try my evaporation test and be sure

P.S. I also store mine in a small gladware container, at my desk, to allow me to easily dunk into the iso and then shake around to really get in there. I do wash them, before I put them in the iso, to keep the iso a clean as possible. I reuse the same iso for about a week or two and wash and replace. As long as you clean the carto in water, before putting them in the iso, the iso stays nice and clear.

Just got back from town re:CVS. They basically had the same RED label 91%,(NO USP) BUT, their bottle had a screw tight top where the smiley face's bottle had one of those designed for squirting like salad dressing. Asked the pharmacist and he said it was probably safe to assume it was USP because of the 91%. So for 64oz. it will cost an additional $ .49 to have an air tight bottle

Patrick

 

[1atom12]

Guys and Gals we go through a rotation of about 20 attys a day during our testing and mixing sessions. I can tell you the fastest and easiest way to get great results every time is to put all your attys in a pot of boiling water. You don't need a ton of water, a half inch above the attys will do. Boil for 5 minutes, drain, refill and repeat. I boil them 3 times to make sure every flavor is out. I then shake out any water inside the atty and place them on a cookie sheet at 185 degrees for 20-30 minutes. When the timer goes off, you've got "like new" attys again.

DISCLAIMER - Over time, this method may cause your paint to start chipping on the outside of your atty.

As always, your mileage may vary, but after using PGA and vodka for a long time, the boil method is the cheapest and easiest and works every time...

 

[mostlyclassics]

There are many different ways to skin this particular cat.

I came up with the isopropyl alcohol / ultrasonic jewelry cleaner method because those are handy in my office, and I don't have a way to boil water here.

 

[paddymx]

I am thinking 91% is 91%, as long as you get it from a reputable source. When in doubt, try my evaporation test and be sure

P.S. I also store mine in a small gladware container, at my desk, to allow me to easily dunk into the iso and then shake around to really get in there. I do wash them, before I put them in the iso, to keep the iso a clean as possible. I reuse the same iso for about a week or two and wash and replace. As long as you clean the carto in water, before putting them in the iso , the iso stays nice and clear.

Yeah..I soaked some cartos(first time) last night thinking it would be good for them to "soak". Flushing this morning, the iso had a slight tint. Flushed with clear iso . Here several hours later still has iso taste when I do a slight mouth test(no inhale). Got them out in the sun for awhile to see if that helps. I was thinking the pre=rinse in water would make them take longer to dry. Guess not! Now I'm thinking the pre-rinse(flush) with warm water might actually do a better job. Besides, when I soaked them, some of the carto "wraps: came lose requiring me to make them "stainless" rather than black.

"putting them in the iso " ? I was thinking I would flush with water then flush with iso then let dry. Are you soaking in iso . Sorry to be dense here, "wash"? Do you mean soak on stove or something else. "before putting them in the iso ". I was thinking of NOT soaking or putting in water/iso but rather, using the syringe flush method. Am I wrong.

Like the idea of making the iso last longer. Sorry to get so involved here, but, this forum is so big and the search unfriendly, it takes forever to find info that may already be posted.

Aren't you glad you answered my post

 

[bigpman]

This is a great idea for attys and cartos, but for clearos it isn't the best idea. Not sure what the OP uses, I never really asked, and assumed he used clearos, as otherwise I figured he would be boiling. Although, when I was using cartos, I did use iso as well. My bad if i was incorrect in my assumptions.

Patrick, what is your weapon of choice?

Guys and Gals we go through a rotation of about 20 attys a day during our testing and mixing sessions. I can tell you the fastest and easiest way to get great results every time is to put all your attys in a pot of boiling water. You don't need a ton of water, a half inch above the attys will do. Boil for 5 minutes, drain, refill and repeat. I boil them 3 times to make sure every flavor is out. I then shake out any water inside the atty and place them on a cookie sheet at 185 degrees for 20-30 minutes. When the timer goes off, you've got "like new" attys again.

DISCLAIMER - Over time, this method may cause your paint to start chipping on the outside of your atty.

As always, your mileage may vary, but after using PGA and vodka for a long time, the boil method is the cheapest and easiest and works every time...

 

[bigpman]

LOL... No worries on the questions, always happy to help. So many people here have helped me out so much that I don't mind paying back.

I think you use cartos. The flushing is good, but uses too much iso/isp. I just washed them under the tap and let the water run though them for a while. Warm water. Then dunk them in the iso and swish around. I let them sit for a few hours to get the iso in there to replace the water. Then, pull them out, shake them and let them dry for AT LEAST 24 hours. Most of the time I was going 2 days. It takes a while to get the iso to evaporate from the poly.

This is the main reason I moved from polyfill to clearos. I got sick of the messy cleanup and long wait time. Not to mention, to me at least, the polyfill add a weird taste to my juices. Clearos, on the other hand stay nice and pure (as long as you don't get wicking issues). CE3 XL is my winner on clearos. This is another subject, so sorry to go on...

Yeah..I soaked some cartos(first time) last night thinking it would be good for them to "soak". Flushing this morning, the isp had a slight tint. Flushed with clear isp. Here several hours later still has isp taste when I do a slight mouth test(no inhale). Got them out in the sun for awhile to see if that helps. I was thinking the pre=rinse in water would make them take longer to dry. Guess not! Now I'm thinking the pre-rinse(flush) with warm water might actually do a better job. Besides, when I soaked them, some of the carto "wraps: came lose requiring me to make them "staniless" rather than black.

"putting them in the iso" ? I was thinking I would flush with water then flush with iso then let dry. Are you soaking in iso . Sorry to be dense here, "wash"? Do you mean soak on stove or something else. "before putting them in the iso". I was thinking of NOT soaking or putting in water/iso but rather, using the syringe flush method. Am I wrong.

Like the idea of making the iso last longer. Sorry to get so involved here, but, this forum is so big and the search unfriendly, it takes forever to find info that may already be posted.

Aren't you glad you answered my post

 

[paddymx]

There are many different ways to skin this particular cat.

I came up with the isopropyl alcohol / ultrasonic jewelry cleaner method because those are handy in my office, and I don't have a way to boil water here.

You got a link for info? Need help deciding.

 

[paddymx]

Geese, can't keep up! Gonna take me a minute to digest these posts today.

 

[paddymx]

a"lways happy to help. So many people here have helped me out so much that I don't mind paying back.

I think you use cartos. "

Thanks and yes, cartos.