The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

[Scubabatdan]

Ok so I was revisiting the Pyrex wick of the Wizard stick, and it occured to me I never tried SS 400 in the pyrex as a wick. Concept: Use a 3mm OD pyrex tube and make a 1.8mm SS wick that goes in the pyrex. Then coil the Kanthal around the pyrex. Yes it will take a second for the kanthal to heat the pyres to vaporize the liquid in the SS inside of the pyrex and it does. But once "heated" I can chain vape until the cows come home.

So here a a couple pics of my adventure:
3mm OD pyrex and ready wick in the forground 30mm long ready to go in:

8 wrap coil around the pyrex:

Vaporizing in progress:

Here is looking at you, and success in all your adventures:

I am still testing this out, so far so good, I have run through half a tank so far with good results. I want to run this a couple days and see how it does. The current SS wick was oxidized, I want to try an un-oxidized wick , and different SS mesh ratings. 400, 500, 635.
So I will be posting my results. the nice thing is I can change the wick without disturbing the pyrex or coil!

More to follow.
Dan

 

[zapped]

NICE!!! Hows the flavor?

 

[2GLR]

Sounds like this could last forever provided you don't break the pyrex.
What thickness of pyrex are you using?

 

[Scubabatdan]

NICE!!! Hows the flavor?

Once the SS "Breaks in" just like a regular SS wick.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Sounds like this could last forever provided you don't break the pyrex.
What thickness of pyrex are you using?

Standard wall thickness .6mm.
Got it here:
3mm O.D. Corning Pyrex Glass Tubing - Wale Apparatus

Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok just rolled a 635 wick un-oxidized, letting it break in now. Took all of a couple minutes to roll and 10 seconds to change.

Notice after almost a tank the kanthal still looks new
Dan

 

[cyclotron]

Nice! I was thinking about this a week or so ago and got side tracked looking at something else.
When I was looking for tubes I found some that had .29 wall thickness. My thought is, the thinner the wall the faster the heat transfer.
3 mm Thin Wall NMR Sample Tube 7" L, 200MHz | Wilmad-LabGlass

While this isn't pyrex but they claim 230C is fine with 120C step acceptable. I'm certainly tracking your work on this as it seems an exciting possibility. Thanks for sharing!

 

[ninfreak]

i don't understand this at all...if the coil has no liquid wont that result in one giant hotspot? hot kanthal doesn't taste so good. i understand the vaporizing in the mesh part but.....if i just have a little bit of kanthal exposed away from juice it tastes like crap.

 

[goat29]

interesting, what do you use to cut the tube? do you cut the tubes at a angle for juice flow and no grounding on bottom of atty by the mesh? can you tell the benifits of using tubes? looks like it would be very ez and clean to use like you have it, how does it effect your batty time of use since you said it takes a little bit to heat up? also what gauge kan are you using? noisey i am

 

[jduncan]

Subscribed.

 

[asdaq]

Well well, something I'd all but forgotten about. Looks to work nicely Dan, how are you doing the airflow? Back in the Wizard Stick days, it was just the nickel mesh? The big thing I remember from the original was that it got gunked and quite working. I suppose with regular cleaning this would be manageable the way you have got it, and it looks like you just need a short piece of pyrex, not all the way down the length of the mesh.

What gauge Kanthal are you using for this BTW?

Also it looks like it would be easy not to break, unlike the outside of a tank.

 

[zapped]

Well well, something I'd all but forgotten about. Looks to work nicely Dan, how are you doing the airflow? Back in the Wizard Stick days, it was just the nickel mesh? The big thing I remember from the original was that it got gunked and quite working. I suppose with regular cleaning this would be manageable the way you have got it, and it looks like you just need a short piece of pyrex, not all the way down the length of the mesh.

What gauge Kanthal are you using for this BTW?

Also it looks like it would be easy not to break, unlike the outside of a tank.

Have you seen the video where someone chucks a Phiniac tank at a brick wall and it doesnt have a scratch on it afterwards? Thats why they use pyrex instead of straight glass.

 

[asdaq]

Just did, and those are some thick walled tanks. I did say easy NOT to break too, as in can be quite cushioned inside the atty and even within a springy coil, on top of springy mesh. I like pyrex, but I also like 1mm walls on tanks so I would rather not try with pyrex.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Nice! I was thinking about this a week or so ago and got side tracked looking at something else.
When I was looking for tubes I found some that had .29 wall thickness. My thought is, the thinner the wall the faster the heat transfer.
3 mm Thin Wall NMR Sample Tube 7" L, 200MHz | Wilmad-LabGlass

While this isn't pyrex but they claim 230C is fine with 120C step acceptable. I'm certainly tracking your work on this as it seems an exciting possibility. Thanks for sharing!

Yeah I would stick with Pyrex, better thermal tolerance.
No problem, sharing is what I do
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

i don't understand this at all...if the coil has no liquid wont that result in one giant hotspot? hot kanthal doesn't taste so good. i understand the vaporizing in the mesh part but.....if i just have a little bit of kanthal exposed away from juice it tastes like crap.

Well the reason it does not taste good is because of hot spots. Hot spots super heat red hot, and when they come in contact with the juice, it burns it causing a foul tatsing vapor. Here the kanthal is wraped around the pyrex, no hot spots because there is nothing to short to, so you have an even heat distrobution through the entire coil. With the whole coil evenly heating, it heats that section of the pyrex and in turn the juice suspended in the SS mesh causing a "Clean" vapor. No burnt taste or massive TH from shorting.
Hope that helps.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

interesting, what do you use to cut the tube? do you cut the tubes at a angle for juice flow and no grounding on bottom of atty by the mesh? can you tell the benifits of using tubes? looks like it would be very ez and clean to use like you have it, how does it effect your batty time of use since you said it takes a little bit to heat up? also what gauge kan are you using? noisey i am

I used a diamond cutting wheel by hand to score the section, and then snapped it off. I then hand lapped it on the diamond wheels face to smooth it off. Nope dont cut at an angle. The mesh does not touch the kanthal, so no shorting. Battery time has been almost identical, no real differance. I am currently using 32ga Kanthal.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Well well, something I'd all but forgotten about. Looks to work nicely Dan, how are you doing the airflow? Back in the Wizard Stick days, it was just the nickel mesh? The big thing I remember from the original was that it got gunked and quite working. I suppose with regular cleaning this would be manageable the way you have got it, and it looks like you just need a short piece of pyrex, not all the way down the length of the mesh.

What gauge Kanthal are you using for this BTW?

Also it looks like it would be easy not to break, unlike the outside of a tank.

Air flow is 90 degrees from the coil, as I do not want the coil "Cooled" by direct air flow, I just want to evacuate the vapor that is produced. Actually in the wizard stick it was a micro coil inside of the pyrex tube and required positive flow pressure of the juice through the tube thru the coil, once the coil gunked up the flow was restricted and required cleaning. I have gone through a tank so far with just mesh and the 635 is wicking great.

Oh I am using 32ga kanthal. Would take quite a bit to break it.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

BTW I am using a ZMAX with a 4 ohm coil at 15 watts of power
Dan

 

[BJ43]

Dan, have you tried it with just a small piece of pyrex under the coil and the rest of the wick normal? Looked at the sight, how do they ship the 4 ft lengths? Is that 25 four ft. lengths for the price? If this works, this could be a good co-op item as that amount of tubing could be shared by many.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan, have you tried it with just a small piece of pyrex under the coil and the rest of the wick normal? Looked at the sight, how do they ship the 4 ft lengths? Is that 25 four ft. lengths for the price? If this works, this could be a good co-op item as that amount of tubing could be shared by many.

Not yet, that will be the next test I try.
They ship them in a 5' x 6" x 6" padded box.
Yes, I have (25) 4' sections LOL, and I only used like an inch and a half

Dan