Best 18650 protected battery?

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Lubes

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I need to buy some 18650 protected batteries and I was wondering which battery has the highest, most consistent output, or best overall performance?

Is it simply a matter of mAh's, so the best performing 18650 is the Ultrafire 3000 mAh? Or do some brands perform better than others, such as AW or Tenergy out performs UltraFire or TrustFire for example? Or is the bottom line that they all perform the same, buy whatever is on sale?
 

caesar

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Usually the Ultrafires and Spiderfires and Trustfires and SureFires are all much more less then the advertised capacity.

Most of the under 2400 mark hold less then 2000mAh. The Ultrafire 3000 and Trustfire 2400 in red and black seem to be the best you can buy from DX. Both are very near to 2400mAh (usually at 2300mAh).

I personally prefer the trustfire ones: DealExtreme: $9.99 TrustFire Protected 18650 3.7V True 2400mAh Rechargeable Lithium Batteries (2-Pack)
Bought already over 50pc. and all were over 2200mAh capacity.

PS: 2300 seems to be the most capacity a 18650 can hold using the now available technology. Anything over 2300 is a bonus. Serious battery producers don't sell anything rated over 2200 if I am not that much mistaken.
 

DonDaBoomVape

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So you are saying the UltraFire 3000 mAh is in fact a 2200-2300 mAh battery just like the TrustFire 2400 mAh? How can UltraFire get away with rating their battery at 3000 mAh, especially when according to you it is not possible to produce 18650's with anything over 2300 mAh capacity?

Is this really your first exposure to exaggerated marketing claims?:D
 

hyperdeficit

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I use the tenergy 18650 with pcb (protection coating something) and they work just fine, I would not recomend the tenergy rcr123a's as they are doing nothing but pissing me off at the moment. they keep shutting off after 5 seconds. they shut off because they get hot and they wont work again for about 5 minutes. I only get one good drag off of them
 

DonDaBoomVape

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...when out and about usually carry something smaller (Protege, XL KR808 etc)...

NekoGurrl, I would be very interested to know how you would compare the two: Protege vs. XL KR808 ... or even XL KR808 vs. regular KR808 battery.

Yes, I know that a 380 mAh XL will get more puffs per battery charge than the 280 mAh regular, but is the vaping experience any different? Any more powerful, more throat hit or vapor? And does it even approach the much more expensive Protege?

I just ordered an XL 808 (auto) battery and adapters (808/901 batt to 510 atty) and (808/901 batt to 801 atty) - all on sale at GoodProphets. I'm not counting on it being a more powerful experience than my regular 510 or 801 penstyle, but I can always use the adapters with a 901 Bartleby I'll be ordering soon ... and the black battery will be nice with black GreenCig carts (even aesthetically).

My question is a bit off-topic for this thread, so you can place your answer in my 380 mAh KR808D-1 Mega vs. 360 mAh VP1 thread if you like.

Thanks!
 

FizzleFisch

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I use the tenergy 18650 with pcb (protection coating something) and they work just fine, I would not recomend the tenergy rcr123a's as they are doing nothing but pissing me off at the moment. they keep shutting off after 5 seconds. they shut off because they get hot and they wont work again for about 5 minutes. I only get one good drag off of them

hyerdeficit --

I don't want to make any undue presumptions about your understanding of such batteries... so my comments here aren't necessarily aimed at you in particular. Also..others before me have covered the following very well elsewhere. Nevertheless... it's important enough to repeat it even despite the risk of redundancy.

The acronym pcb you previously mentioned generally refers to the term "printed_circuit_board".

Batteries that are "protected" ...are those that have been outfitted with a small electronic circuit (on a very small circular circuit board) which is almost always situated at the base of the cell ( this is the (-) electrode of the battery).

If one takes a moment to inspect a 'protected' battery closely, or especially if you have the opportunity to visually compare a 'protected' cell with a non-protected one...you will notice a small annular indentation running around the bottom of the cell just underneath the outer plastic shrink-wrap sleeve. This circular indentation is the outward visual evidence that a thin pcb (as mentioned) is affixed to the battery.

These protection circuits serve (variously) to shut down the flow of electrical current either to, or from, the cell whenever the existing charge (aka: voltage) in the battery has reached critical upper and lower preset limits (as during charging & discharging cycles respectively). In addition, there is also at least one another mechanism *sometimes* employed by certain battery manufacturers which is designed to help protect against excessive thermal conditions (overheating).

Lithium-chemistry batteries are great modern-day devices. But they are also capable of rather rude behavior (i.e. fire or explosion) if their usage is not kept within certain constraints. This means they must not be allowed to exceed certain (upper & lower) charge-level states - and electrical current flow demands must always be restricted to stay within important operating limits.

From your description of the behavior of the rcr123a batteries you mentioned (getting hot and shutting off for a period of time)....
I would venture a guess that the batteries are being loaded too heavily. This means they are being prompted to deliver a higher rate of current-flow than what they are intended to provide. It sounds to me like there's a "thermal-shutdown" threshold that's being exceeded..and thus they are only delivering energy for a few seconds while also rapid heating up. When, even after only a few seconds, they get hot enough... they 'internally' shut down and disconnect themselves from the electrical load (hopefully that is!). Everyone should take note and keep in mind however that any battery which is supposedly 'protected' with pcb's & thermal shutdown mechanisms cannot be absolutely guaranteed to behave properly. The protection measures employed are not 100% fail-safe. They have been known, even if only occasionally to NOT perform properly.

Word to the wise [for you and everyone else out there!] -- I would certainly recommend that you not keep subjecting any battery (of any size or kind) that exhibits this type of behavior.... to whatever conditions-of-use (or attempted use) which cause them to act that way. In my opinion... continuing to do so - is just asking for trouble.

sincerely,
fisch
 
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Pete54

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I use the tenergy 18650 with pcb (protection coating something) and they work just fine, I would not recomend the tenergy rcr123a's as they are doing nothing but pissing me off at the moment. they keep shutting off after 5 seconds. they shut off because they get hot and they wont work again for about 5 minutes. I only get one good drag off of them
Just curious hyperdeficit, are the Tenergy CR123's you are using these?
2 RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh Rechargeable LiFePO4 Li-Ion Batteries with AC/DC Smart Charger
I'm curious because I just ordered some. These are LiFePO4's.
 
Whew, I ordered batteries for my Juicebox (it will arrive one of these days) and I bought batteries before checking here at ECF. But I started to wonder if I should have stuck with the 2400mah batteries. So I did a forum search and found this thread. Fortunately I bought (2) Ultrafire 18650 3000mah button top protected batteries

Thanks to the OP and contributors, I was about to start a new thread to make sure I didn't screw up.
 

justrubl

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that's my vote also. i use this in my chuck while at while i am off work and i use 18350 in my little chuck when i am at work because it is smaller and less heavy in my scrubs pocket. but for everyday 'off work' use i prefer the 8650 300mah and it works better then any other 18650 i have tried, and not just lasting longer but giving the strongest output for the duration of use and i usually change it every other day.

Another vote here for the Ultrafire 18650 3000 mAh battery! I have one in a Prodigy, always lasts a couple days. I do alternate battery devices however, and when out and about usually carry something smaller (Protege, XL KR808 etc). If I had to take one device for a long trip, the Ultrafire would be the battery in it!
 

the vaporizer

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Old thread...but i did some research a couple od days ago and my findings have pointed the other way...so here it goes...many that have tested the 3000mah ultrafire batteries have found that they are really only about 2000-2200mah...also it was said by numerous people that the trustfire TRUE 2400mah perform just as good...if not better...and they are a little cheaper! so i ended up going with the trustfire option...just thought people might me interested seeing as how this is a widely used battery now :) vape on!
 

the vaporizer

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I'm going with the Ultrafire 3000mah batteries.
The Tenergy batteries without a button don't always make good contact.


the moral of the story is...your wasting your money :) the ultrafires were tested and were only found to have anywhere between 2000mah-2400mah at best!!!!


the trustfire TRUE 2400mah are only $9.68 and offer better life and same protection..and they have the button top so nothing to worry about with bad connections...do what you want...but just know the ultra's are not the most efficient option..
 
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