Button getting hot?

[padookie]

The button on my drawtube keeps getting hot when I fire it. I've got an RSST on it right now with 400 mesh and 28 gauge kanthal. It's reading 0.8Ω and it's vaping ok. I've never noticed the button getting hot before. I'm sure it's user error. Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong?

 

[donnah]

I'm interested in this also. I think it's a short. I've got a did clone that keeps throwing and E1 on the provari and when I put it on the EA and pushed the button, the button immediately got scalding hot. I took the batt out and set it aside for awhile.

 

[Rule62]

I'm interested in this also. I think it's a short. I've got a did clone that keeps throwing and E1 on the provari and when I put it on the EA and pushed the button, the button immediately got scalding hot. I took the batt out and set it aside for awhile.

If the Provari is showing E1, it's a short.

 

[oldsoldier]

If the Provari is showing E1, it's a short.

And shorts will cause overheating and ultimately battery self destruction.

 

[donnah]

If the Provari is showing E1, it's a short.

An e1 is nothing new, I can usually keep adjusting and work through it. I didn't think that with a mech, the button would immediately get hot. Ard there different types of shorts? Is there a difference between a "hard" short and a "regular" short?

For example, the pulse method of oxidizing...don't you pulse out the shorts?

 

[Rule62]

An e1 is nothing new, I can usually keep adjusting and work through it. I didn't think that with a mech, the button would immediately get hot. Ard there different types of shorts? Is there a difference between a "hard" short and a "regular" short?

For example, the pulse method of oxidizing...don't you pulse out the shorts?

There is a difference; but I'm not versed enough in electrical terms to describe it properly, I'm sure. But, with a provari, anything below the minimum resistance threshold designed into the device will register as an E1 (short) error. However, there may, in actuality, be some resistance between the positive and negative. That resistance is is just below the threshold. With a "hard short", there is zero resistance between the two poles. The danger is that a hard short can not only damage the device, but can cause battery failure.

 

[donnah]

I think I've figured out my problem.. see where the pos pin has been pulled up into the insulator? this is the second time this has happened on this clone from fasttech. The vulcan, (did clone) pretty much did the same thing, it shredded the insulator. I think I'm going to quit messing with these did clones.

 

[Rule62]

I think I've figured out my problem.. see where the pos pin has been pulled up into the insulator? this is the second time this has happened on this clone from fasttech. The vulcan, (did clone) pretty much did the same thing, it shredded the insulator. I think I'm going to quit messing with these did clones.

Yep. There's your short. Those insulators on the clones are pretty cheezy, considering they're the only thing protecting the PV and battery from failure, especially with a mechanical mod. I've never had one fail; but I have a local friend who has had the insulator fail a couple times.

 

[donnah]

Yep. There's your short. Those insulators on the clones are pretty cheezy, considering they're the only thing protecting the PV and battery from failure, especially with a mechanical mod. I've never had one fail; but I have a local friend who has had the insulator fail a couple times.

I just took it apart and the insulator had torn in two up in the shaft. This is the second time this has happened and I've lost all interest in messing with these did clones. On a good note, I ordered a bunch of the insulators from surevapes and they do work great in the drunker

OP.. sorry to highjack your thread but I hope my experience has maybe helped you with your hot button issue. I use my rsst on my mech and the button never gets hot.

 

[Rule62]

I just took it apart and the insulator had torn in two up in the shaft. This is the second time this has happened and I've lost all interest in messing with these did clones. On a good note, I ordered a bunch of the insulators from surevapes and they do work great in the drunker

OP.. sorry to highjack your thread but I hope my experience has maybe helped you with your hot button issue. I use my rsst on my mech and the button never gets hot.

It's also a good lesson in why we shouldn't mess with "no name" batteries.

 

[donnah]

It's also a good lesson in why we shouldn't mess with "no name" batteries.

I'm using aw imr's.. do you think it messed up my batt? I didn't press the button but once and took the batt out immediately. The batt looks fine.

I think it's also a good lesson why I shouldn't mess with the cheap did clones LOL

 

[Lhartman89]

I think you figured out what was causing this right? The adjustable center pin on the EA was pushing the center post up into the DID clone when you tightened it down on the mod, right?

 

[donnah]

I think you figured out what was causing this right? The adjustable center pin on the EA was pushing the center post up into the DID clone when you tightened it down on the mod, right?

Exactly! I thought it was the clone's fault but it was my fault for over tightening the EA. Luckily I ordered extra insulators and now the clone (after being put in time out for a couple days) is back up and running. I decided not to use it on the EA because it's too easy to over tighten it and the EA is kinda loose unless it's tightened down snug. I ruined a Pheonix yesterday doing this same thing. It never seemed to tighten down firm so I kept tightening.. pushed the posts in the pheonix right out and when I tried to fire it (not knowing what I had done yet) the button went hot.

So yea.. lesson learned! I hope someone can benefit from my experience with this.

 

[unloaded]

The button on my drawtube keeps getting hot when I fire it. I've got an RSST on it right now with 400 mesh and 28 gauge kanthal. It's reading 0.8Ω and it's vaping ok. I've never noticed the button getting hot before. I'm sure it's user error. Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong?

It's getting hot because there is resistance in the button or spring. Assuming your battery is around 4v your atty is pulling 20 watts or 5 amps. I would clean and maybe polish the parts of the button and if it still warms up look for a better spring. There were a batch of Vamo's shipped that had springs made with a resistive alloy and they got hot at much lower wattages then you are getting.

 

[Lhartman89]

Exactly! I thought it was the clone's fault but it was my fault for over tightening the EA. Luckily I ordered extra insulators and now the clone (after being put in time out for a couple days) is back up and running. I decided not to use it on the EA because it's too easy to over tighten it and the EA is kinda loose unless it's tightened down snug. I ruined a Pheonix yesterday doing this same thing. It never seemed to tighten down firm so I kept tightening.. pushed the posts in the pheonix right out and when I tried to fire it (not knowing what I had done yet) the button went hot.

So yea.. lesson learned! I hope someone can benefit from my experience with this.

I have heard to try putting the device on first, then tightening the EA mod together until you get some resistance and that should keep them from getting messed up.

 

[Kevin Brown]

An e1 is nothing new, I can usually keep adjusting and work through it. I didn't think that with a mech, the button would immediately get hot. Ard there different types of shorts? Is there a difference between a "hard" short and a "regular" short?

For example, the pulse method of oxidizing...don't you pulse out the shorts?

Hard short means to the grounded metal case/container of item
a regular short usually internal mechanisms
we in fact hard short these lil coily guys

but theres no such definition term, "regular short" its just shorted out then

 

[Kevin Brown]

But those change if bucking or kicking

then its part of circuit and is shorted
-------
I saw I could answer your other question

it blows litle bitty holes and oxidizes by use of the coil
the torch isnt as hot as an e cig coil

its if your setup can do it using wrapping paper makes it easier

i wrap and twist all my wicks with zigzags

 

[padookie]

OP.. sorry to highjack your thread but I hope my experience has maybe helped you with your hot button issue. I use my rsst on my mech and the button never gets hot.

No worries. I'm still learning and any info helps.

 

[Jaseruckus]

For those that are using mods that have hot springs in them and are experiencing a hot button. You may want to inspect your hot spring. 1.0 ohms and below can cause your hot spring to degrade faster or cause deforming. I know some mod makers don't recommend using such low ohms with the hot springs in. I remember experiencing a hot button on my Roller, checked for hotspots and found none, checked my hot spring and saw some areas of the spring deformed and dirty. Not sure if it was from doing the pulse method. I popped in a new spring and the hot button went away. I then checked the spring after just 1 day of use and found it getting dirty already. I just went ahead and took out the spring altogether and just put a safety fuse in there and everything has been working like a charm.

Not saying this is the problem the op is experiencing, just putting this out there for others who may visit this post with the hot button problem.