Vapor Flask
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Update on my Vapor Flask I sent into Vapor Shark for repair.
11/2 paid $25 for diagnostic and shipped via Priority USPS.
Delivered 11/4 from CA to FL.
Got email today stating board was damaged and was sent an invoice for $60 which I paid.
Hopefully it will be back soon.
11/2 paid $25 for diagnostic and shipped via Priority USPS.
Delivered 11/4 from CA to FL.
Got email today stating board was damaged and was sent an invoice for $60 which I paid.
Hopefully it will be back soon.
Shipped back to me yesterday. ..in transit via UPS Mail Innovations. I've had mixed experiences with that service.
Similar experience here. Just sent my flask to VS last week for a broken 510. Paid the $25 diagnostic fee plus another $10 to ship it priority mail to them. After they replaced the 510 they informed me that the board was shorted and charged me another $45 to replace that. Its on it way back to me now. Should be a new flask now [emoji3]
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Good question. Evolve dna40. I presume the latest version. Mine was about 9 months old I think. It's the small screen.
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I just sent my Vaporshark vaporflask in yesterday for the weak battery issue. They will probably charge me the difference on this one. Lol
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Exactly 14 days from shipping to them to return to me.
The battery sleds and chip were replaced and the unit was cleaned.
Newest chip with atty lock (though I prefer power lock).
The unit is working fine so far.
Only issue was the red LED by the charging port was constantly illuminated at first. Then I plugged in a charging cable and took it out. Now its off when not charging but the port is real wiggly whereas it wasn't before. I never used it for charging so no biggie.
I am up to six now.Three black (one is the blacked out version), red, blue, and gunmetal. I just need a silver flask and I will be done buying. These should last me for the rest of my life. Anyone know the size/type of hex screws used on the top of the DNA40 v2?
Um I dunno like probably somewhere around $210...did I get it? Do I win a prize???
Lol but seriously, I used to always use that rational when purchasing more Vape gear, but I've long since abandoned it and just come to terms with the fact that this is a hobby (which I doubt any sane person would say about cigarette smoking...) and well, hobbies are ....ing expensive. *Sigh*
Lol but seriously, I used to always use that rational when purchasing more Vape gear, but I've long since abandoned it and just come to terms with the fact that this is a hobby (which I doubt any sane person would say about cigarette smoking...) and well, hobbies are ....ing expensive. *Sigh*
Got a problem with the connector pin, not entirely specific to the VF but you guys might have some ideas. Last year I went away and took a different mod / atty with me. For some reason I left the flask with a half full squape attached, when I came back some weeks later the atty had leaked a bit over the VF, it had got down into the connector and was probably sitting like this for some time, I cleaned it up but was getting check atty error.
So I've since pulled the top off and inspected the guts, the good news is no leakage had got inside there. Inspecting the pin itself though it didn't seem very springy, I assume juice has gotten in there and is jamming it, I suspect it's not springing up as far as it should either. I'm not sure what it's meant to be like, it feels clogged but maybe it's meant to be that tight?. If it's clogged I would like to fix it but I'm not sure how, I can't seem to disassemble the pin / housing itself for a clean.
The wire does give enough length probably to dunk the pin on its own in something to clean, my first thought would be isopropyl, not sure if this would work / or bad idea, and I can't scrub / wipe in the housing anyway. There's probably enough wire length to cut strip and solder a new pin, looks like a PITA, as does pulling the entire board out and soldering a new wire.
Any shortcuts here?
So I've since pulled the top off and inspected the guts, the good news is no leakage had got inside there. Inspecting the pin itself though it didn't seem very springy, I assume juice has gotten in there and is jamming it, I suspect it's not springing up as far as it should either. I'm not sure what it's meant to be like, it feels clogged but maybe it's meant to be that tight?. If it's clogged I would like to fix it but I'm not sure how, I can't seem to disassemble the pin / housing itself for a clean.
The wire does give enough length probably to dunk the pin on its own in something to clean, my first thought would be isopropyl, not sure if this would work / or bad idea, and I can't scrub / wipe in the housing anyway. There's probably enough wire length to cut strip and solder a new pin, looks like a PITA, as does pulling the entire board out and soldering a new wire.
Any shortcuts here?
Does newer flask made with the same quality in mind as the older ones?
I wished they still offered the same colors as the older ones.
I wished they still offered the same colors as the older ones.
I own a VF DNA 40 v2.1 in Gun Metal, that I bought in June 2015, and a VF DNA 40 v2.1 in Blue that I bought in December 2015.
The Blue seems every bit as good quality as the Gun Metal. I did notice that they have changed the battery clip (where the positive of the battery meets the device), but if anything this seems to be an improvement.
Apart from that they seem identical.
I noticed, here in Malaysia, that I can still get the VF DNA 40 in Red, Black, Blue, Pastel Green, and Splash, but no longer in Gun Metal. Is that the same where you are?
The Blue seems every bit as good quality as the Gun Metal. I did notice that they have changed the battery clip (where the positive of the battery meets the device), but if anything this seems to be an improvement.
Apart from that they seem identical.
I noticed, here in Malaysia, that I can still get the VF DNA 40 in Red, Black, Blue, Pastel Green, and Splash, but no longer in Gun Metal. Is that the same where you are?
Everywhere that has them only has the black color. Which makes me think that I should wait to get one. I think they are just clearing the ones with the DNA40 chip to make room for a new device with a DNA200 or SX350 chip.
Should add that the one thats in stock is the VapeForward/VaporShark collab.
Should add that the one thats in stock is the VapeForward/VaporShark collab.
OK. Mine are both original VF DNA 40's, not the VaperShark Vaper Flask DNA 40.
I've held the VS VF DNA40 in the store, and it seemed quite nice, but I wouldn't call it as high quality.
The VF SX350J has been out for several months now. Again like the VS VF DNA 40 this is a Chinese manufactured mod.
I also held one of these in the store. It is very nice, but for me the bottom cap made of steel was a deal breaker. I love the orignial VF DNA's for the single piece of billet aluminium body, with only a top cap - also in billet aluminium.
I'm not sure we will ever see an American made, VF DNA 200.
I've held the VS VF DNA40 in the store, and it seemed quite nice, but I wouldn't call it as high quality.
The VF SX350J has been out for several months now. Again like the VS VF DNA 40 this is a Chinese manufactured mod.
I also held one of these in the store. It is very nice, but for me the bottom cap made of steel was a deal breaker. I love the orignial VF DNA's for the single piece of billet aluminium body, with only a top cap - also in billet aluminium.
I'm not sure we will ever see an American made, VF DNA 200.
Might just pull the trigger on the VF/VS flask, but after reading some of the previous post makes me wary.
Gonna wait for some feed back from other users.
Whats the consensus guys? Yay or nay on VS VF? Or should I wait and spring for the SX?
Gonna wait for some feed back from other users.
Whats the consensus guys? Yay or nay on VS VF? Or should I wait and spring for the SX?
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