The one stop video for rebuilding tools and techniques

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beckdg

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hey Russ.

i hope you don't mind. i want to show you something.

first a disclaimer. i use tensioned coils via the gizmo because they're easy and pretty consistent.

though... the TMC can easily be improved upon using very simple techniques applied by anyone who bends pipe or bar on a regular basis.

the key is the point where the tension is applied. not so much how much tension is applied. the tension must be applied at the bending point for best results.

for example. the common result from TMC's. see the black arrow where the last wind to the terminating leg finally contacts the mandrel 1/4 turn from straight....

RussIsKing.jpg

in a TMC, that last 1/4 turn is assumed to be part of your coil... (and perfect diameter as per the rest of the coil)



now that video may or may not be ideal. :p or the ideal coiling method.

but it does show a close contact point that produces a much tighter coil with a near perfect termination wind that aligns with the rest of the coil.\

one of my first coils when i was mucking around with the protank family of grief...

beckdg-albums-protank-musings-picture289798-12-wraps-28-ga-kanthal-1-8-kanger-head-coil.jpg


notice the terminating wind is facing you and is the same diameter as the rest and nestled right with them.

what i'm suggesting here...
make 2 coils back to back.
first one... do a super swamper
next one... same thing... but pinch the coil after the first turn or two

take macro photos of the two at the last wind and compare how the leg comes off.
also notice which one grips the mandrel better when pulling it off.

let me know what you find. i could just be crazy, ya know. Mac seemed to suggest so when i brought it up in the protank thread where the TMC seemed to originate.
 

super_X_drifter

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hey Russ.

i hope you don't mind. i want to show you something.

first a disclaimer. i use tensioned coils via the gizmo because they're easy and pretty consistent.

though... the TMC can easily be improved upon using very simple techniques applied by anyone who bends pipe or bar on a regular basis.

the key is the point where the tension is applied. not so much how much tension is applied. the tension must be applied at the bending point for best results.

for example. the common result from TMC's. see the black arrow where the last wind to the terminating leg finally contacts the mandrel 1/4 turn from straight....

View attachment 418542

in a TMC, that last 1/4 turn is assumed to be part of your coil... (and perfect diameter as per the rest of the coil)



now that video may or may not be ideal. :p or the ideal coiling method.

but it does show a close contact point that produces a much tighter coil with a near perfect termination wind that aligns with the rest of the coil.\

one of my first coils when i was mucking around with the protank family of grief...

beckdg-albums-protank-musings-picture289798-12-wraps-28-ga-kanthal-1-8-kanger-head-coil.jpg


notice the terminating wind is facing you and is the same diameter as the rest and nestled right with them.

what i'm suggesting here...
make 2 coils back to back.
first one... do a super swamper
next one... same thing... but pinch the coil after the first turn or two

take macro photos of the two at the last wind and compare how the leg comes off.
also notice which one grips the mandrel better when pulling it off.

let me know what you find. i could just be crazy, ya know. Mac seemed to suggest so when i brought it up in the protank thread where the TMC seemed to originate.


Great call beck! And good eyes bro. Yes, I've seen turbos twisting method and while I like it, for one it kills my girly man hands - yeah I suffer from dry skin from washing my hands so much.

I'm fairly certain that that unevenness you noted could be avoided by not releasing the tension on the reel until I have the leg exactly where I want it. Additionally, I slightly botched that coil by accidentally turning the thumbscrew to remove it first rather than the wingnut. Yes, I'm thinking that may be the starting wind - the one that goes into the wingnut. If this is the case then it may have to be over wound by one turn and that one turn removed by gently pulling it with a pair of pliers.

If the next time I wind a coil I see that, I will junk it and do over but overwind by one wrap and gently pull that one off with a pair of pliers.

Thank you for the tips my brother :)
 

fogging_katrider

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Oh my god like nails on the chalkboard, I was squinting to hear the wispering voice on that video...then ahhhhhhhh whatta arrrgh that painful noise as the hemostats get dragged across the table ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh make it stop nooooo not again...the agony of the sliding hemostat not again noooooooooooooo !!


I agree though, the dewind on the mandrel does make for well formed leg exits...but why are you whispering?

Maybe its my sound card.... yikes
 

super_X_drifter

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Oh my god like nails on the chalkboard, I was squinting to hear the wispering voice on that video...then ahhhhhhhh whatta arrrgh that painful noise as the hemostats get dragged across the table ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh make it stop nooooo not again...the agony of the sliding hemostat not again noooooooooooooo !!


I agree though, the dewind on the mandrel does make for well formed leg exits...but why are you whispering?

Maybe its my sound card.... yikes

Edited because I'm a bonehead and thought you were referring to my vid :)
 
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beckdg

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Sorry kat. I'm no celebrity. Never will be. Quite camera shy.

Super... it's simply a function of having the tension located away from where the work is being done.

The last wind will always be loose until the tension is located directly at the point where the wind begins.

Maybe you can use a small chit to pinch with. I'd really like for you to see for yourself what I'm referring to.

To be honest, I wanted to use a screen shot from a vid where you held the coil up that showed it really good. But when I went looking, I didn't have too much time and couldn't find it.

ETA; so you know... in that screen shot... The thumb screw and wing nut are still tightened.

Tapatyped
 
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super_X_drifter

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Sorry kat. I'm no celebrity. Never will be. Quite camera shy.

Super... it's simply a function of having the tension located away from where the work is being done.

The last wind will always be loose until the tension is located directly at the point where the wind begins.

Maybe you can use a small chit to pinch with. I'd really like for you to see for yourself what I'm referring to.

To be honest, I wanted to use a screen shot from a vid where you held the coil up that showed it really good. But when I went looking, I didn't have too much time and couldn't find it.

ETA; so you know... in that screen shot... The thumb screw and wing nut are still tightened.

Tapatyped

Another good call my brother. I believe the easiest way to accomplish this using my current / preferred method is to overwind by 2 wraps then gently de-wind one from each side. Lemme give it a go real quick and see if it's better. Thank you bro.
 
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