Modding my Aqua v2 for post-less deck: how to solder a new head on a screw? (Steel / stainless maybe)

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TheBloke

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Hi guys,

On the Aqua v2 rda/rta, the posts unscrew. This gave me an idea: I want to use the deck as a post-less deck. This will enable me to fit in a bigger coil or coils.



I love the Aqua v2 more than any other atty. I use it in RTA mode 99% of the time, and I use it far more than any of my other RTAs. The only thing I would change about it is the deck, which is a little cramped for my liking - especially when I am using fancy twisted wire coils, and for Ni200 spaced coils. Therefore it would be awesome if I could free up some space by removing those posts and wiring directly into the deck (as close as possible anyway.)

As you can see from the photo, the positive post fits onto a rod, and therefore this will be easy to replace - I just need a nut or two nuts to fit onto that rod, and I am sure I can find that easily. Then I will capture the wire between two tightened nuts on the positive rod.

The bigger problem is the negative post, which fits into an M5 screw hole. The problem is that the screw hole is only 5mm tall, and I cannot find any M5 screws that short - the shortest I can find online is 8mm, but that will still be far too tall, and very likely the head will also be far too big (all the heads on my existing M5 screws are massive in comparison to the deck.)

So I am attempting to make a new mini M5 screw with a total thread length of 5mm.

I have already cut an appropriate height off an M5 screw, which fits perfectly into the screw hole. I then cut a flat-head into it so I could screw it in. But this provides no way of actually attaching the wire.

My plan is to cut the head off a small screw, and then solder it on top of the mini-M5. I plan to use a washer-head to best trap the wire. I did briefly consider metal glue, as I have some 'Steel Strength' metal glue, but unfortunately its maximum temperature is 150° C (300° F), not high enough even for a temperature controlled vape.

So my question is: Can I do this? I have done some Googling on soldering solid metal, but I am a bit confused as to what methods would work here. The first problem seems to be that I can't use standard rosin flux, I need an "aggressive flux" like Phosphoric Acid?

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Here are some photos of what I want to do:

At the bottom, the screw-part that I cut off; at the top, an example of the screw I cut it from for reference:



Side and top views of the screw-part that I want to solder on to:



]

An example of the sort of washer screw head I want to solder on top of the screw-part. I will cut it off from the screw, leaving just the washer-head to solder on. Note that this is just an example of the appearance, I have not bought this yet.

 
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TheBloke

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I've just realised there might be a really easy solution - I googled on metal glue and I see there are glues that go up to 1200° C!

Like this maybe?

HIGH TEMPERATURE 1200'C ADHESIVE GLUE FOR EXHAUST FIREPLACE OVENS COLLECTORS 70 ml new: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Maybe that would solve all my problems - glueing is a million times easier than soldering. And it doesn't matter if the glue is electrically conductive or not, because I will be trapping the wire against the deck.

So maybe I should just get some of this high temp glue and forget soldering?
 
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Ca Ike

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Unless you can find a m5 to m2 or m1.5 bushing I wouldn't waste your time. The only way to safely make that screw would be to weld it or have it custom machined. Any of the glues out there will not be food grade and likely not last.

You can try looking at r/c shops or computer components or just take an m5, cut it down and grind the head smaller
 

TheBloke

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Unless you can find a m5 to m2 or m1.5 bushing I wouldn't waste your time. The only way to safely make that screw would be to weld it or have it custom machined. Any of the glues out there will not be food grade and likely not last.

You can try looking at r/c shops or computer components or just take an m5, cut it down and grind the head smaller

Thanks for the reply. Yeah grinding down an existing screw head is something I've also thought about.

Do you think the glue really needs to be food safe? It's going to trap the end of the negative wire, and is therefore going to be some way away from the cotton and juice. And it's certified at temperatures far higher than will ever exist, so it won't vapourise or give off chemicals.

I would definitely agree if it was going in the tank, or anywhere where juice flows, but juice flowing around the negative post would only be from a leak, and shouldn't then get vapourised. But yes I can see that I couldn't completely rule out the possibility.

That said, I wonder if I could use the glue such that only the inner area had glue - use a small circular patch of glue at the centre of the screw head, surrounded by a larger diameter circle with no glue. The bond would not be as strong, but I don't need super high tensile strength - just strong enough to allow me to tighten it over a captured wire.

Maybe I'm completely wrong, but it doesn't seem totally impossible to get work?

So if I don't use glue, is soldering out of the question? It has to be welded?

In the meantime I'm going to investigate how easily I can cut an existing screw head down to size, that could certainly be a lot simpler. And yeah I'll continue searching at hobby shops and the like, maybe small-head M5s are available; even if they're too long, I can still cut them down as I did with this one. It's just the head size that's harder to deal with.

Thanks!
 

TheBloke

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Why not just open the center of your m5 screw then tap say an m2.5 hole into the center? Still could find both of those parts easily and not have to deal with all the safety questions that arise from glue or solder... just a thought. Good Luck. Happy Vaping.
I would love to do that! I was thinking about it, but I just thought that drilling a 2.5mm hole in a 5mm screw had to be something that would need special equipment? Or at least more than a normal drill and bit set?

I admit I have yet to research how one drills into metal, but I thought it could not be done with a normal drill?

If I can, then yes that changes everything. I could just make a new post, in effect a sunken post.

I will do some research. I guess maybe I could also find someone local who has the right equipment (and skill!) and might not charge too much.

While I'd love to get this basic mod completed, I can't really justify spending lots of money on new equipment, not yet anyway.

Sent by fondling my slab.
 

Iusedtoanalog

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If I where to attempt something like that I would begin with a 5mm post cut to length then put it in the deck..... hold the deck firmly (preferably in a vise) then center the bit and drill down about3/4 of your depth. Tap the threads and insert screw. I would try to find a buddy who has a drill press before attempting to do it by hand but with caution you could accomplish this without many special tools (other than the tap and proper drill bit]
 

TheBloke

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OK thank you very much! I have a whole bunch of drill bits, two sets worth of them that came with different (fairly cheap) drills. I will investigate which of those are suitable for metal.

A proper drill press looks like it would cost me about £60 / $100. I can get a "drill stand with vice" for half that price, which I guess I fit my existing drill into.

Definitely something I'd like to have for future work, but not sure I can stretch to it right now.

But I might well have a go at doing it by hand, once I've done more research. It was easy enough to make the 5mm mini-screw so doesn't matter if I wreck a few trying!

Thanks very much!
 

TheBloke

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OK so I was out shopping.. and couldn't resist!

I really didn't want to splash out for a proper drill press, but I got this basic drill stand: Clarke CDS1 Drill Stand

QCdyZIa.jpg


Also a couple of Cobalt drill bits in 2.5mm and 3.0mm; a tap and die set (lowest size is 3.0mm unfortunately), a clamp, some safety glasses, and a few other bits.

So it looks like I'm going to try a 3.0mm screw hole in the 5mm diameter - I hope that gives me enough margin around the outside! I also got some M3 bolts that are far too long but I can cut to length. I can probably get much shorter ones online which I'll research later (if I don't already have some 3mm screws which I may.)

So now I get to find out if I can get this to work!

Thanks very much for the suggestion and details, Iusedtoanalog! If this works it will be much cleaner than how I thought I was going to do it.
 
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