GG Tilemahos V2 and Penelope V4 mini official thread
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Using Penelope V4 on a mod without air control and the draw is far too loose for my taste, I like quite a tight draw.. Where would be the best place to restrict the airflow to make the draw tighter? The centre post or the centre post extension? Closing one of the air holes on the base doesn't have any real effect..
center post extension has 4 holes around it Big. You can close 3 of them, maybe with plasticine?
Ok guys I'd appreciate a little bit of help on this one. My apologies if it's been covered and it probably has but there's a lot of posts to go through and I have tried..!
Cant get Tilemahos V2 to wick properly with silica. Right now I've the clear tank on. I've 2mm silica doubled and cut at the top of the channels, no wick to speak of in the channels and the resistance is at 1ohm. With the clear tank on and the top cap screwed down I can't adjust the juice control, it's just to tight, so I'm having to unscrew the top cap slightly to do so then re tighten it again. I keep getting dry hits.. If I release the top cap and screw down the juice control air bubbles are released from the juice channels. I raise the juice control again and tighten the top cap and the problem disappears for a short time but returns shortly after and I have to repeat the process..
The strange thing is I had it working perfectly for the past 2 weeks. I refilled numerous times using the above procedure and never had a dry hit once. The coil got gunked, as it does, and when I re-wicked the problems started. Nothing on my build has changed I simply dry burned, brushed the coil off and rewicked.. and now I'm tearing what little hair I have left out trying to solve it..
Cant get Tilemahos V2 to wick properly with silica. Right now I've the clear tank on. I've 2mm silica doubled and cut at the top of the channels, no wick to speak of in the channels and the resistance is at 1ohm. With the clear tank on and the top cap screwed down I can't adjust the juice control, it's just to tight, so I'm having to unscrew the top cap slightly to do so then re tighten it again. I keep getting dry hits.. If I release the top cap and screw down the juice control air bubbles are released from the juice channels. I raise the juice control again and tighten the top cap and the problem disappears for a short time but returns shortly after and I have to repeat the process..
The strange thing is I had it working perfectly for the past 2 weeks. I refilled numerous times using the above procedure and never had a dry hit once. The coil got gunked, as it does, and when I re-wicked the problems started. Nothing on my build has changed I simply dry burned, brushed the coil off and rewicked.. and now I'm tearing what little hair I have left out trying to solve it..
Don't use silica. Graham cellucotton (rayon) or japanese cotton.
But some of us prefer silica.
Once steliosss helped me out, I learned that silica works great for me when I make sure it doesn't go down into the channels *at all*, cut it perfectly flush with the slots at the top of the housing, and see that it fills those slots completely without packing.
if you double silica then you squeeze it a lot on channels Big and you dont let it breath for proper wicking. Put just one single piece of 2mm or 3mm silica and you will be ok 
I don't think the silica is squeezed Imeo I cut the top piece slightly shorter just like on Penelope but I'll try it with the single piece and see what happens..
I much prefer silica soul.. Strangely enough I can use cotton in Penelope with bobas bounty but as a rule I'm a cotton man..
I much prefer silica soul.. Strangely enough I can use cotton in Penelope with bobas bounty but as a rule I'm a cotton man..
Try something I always do.
Let the top cap completely loose, screw it up to the point that you'll feel that the o-ring touch the tank.
The mouthpiece will be very easy to turn but don't be afraid about flooding.
Let the top cap completely loose, screw it up to the point that you'll feel that the o-ring touch the tank.
The mouthpiece will be very easy to turn but don't be afraid about flooding.
Pene v4 came in, I am building exactly like Tille V2. Beautiful like the Tille too I must say.
Issues with wicking if anyone can help. See my pics of build. Lowere right is me trimming the rayon, before trimming to length.
2.5mm diam, 28 guage, 7 wraps counter clockwise to place upside down, 1.1-1.2 ohm, 30/70 vg heavy liquid, approx 13 watts.
Advise helpful, thank you.
Issues with wicking if anyone can help. See my pics of build. Lowere right is me trimming the rayon, before trimming to length.
2.5mm diam, 28 guage, 7 wraps counter clockwise to place upside down, 1.1-1.2 ohm, 30/70 vg heavy liquid, approx 13 watts.
Advise helpful, thank you.
what exactly is your problem ??? if your juiceflow is not good - maybe you put in too much rayon too tight ... I always put half of the rayon in the cup and cut the other half flush with the channel - this works for me also with heavy juices ... would be helpful to see your finished build from above ... in any case - ENJOY !
I got it figured out, thanks to a message from Qorax. I needed to thin and elongate the tails a bit. No problem.
Pene V4 has a great draw, I thought it may be restricted from my preference...but about perfect for me. Thank you gg.
Pene V4 has a great draw, I thought it may be restricted from my preference...but about perfect for me. Thank you gg.
That is a little to much Rayon IMHO try to cut it more flush with the top of the channels, I can't tell from the pic how tight the Rayon is in the coil but it should make surface contact with the coil but not be to tight as to choke it's self off and prevent juice flow I hope this helps.Pene v4 came in, I am building exactly like Tille V2. Beautiful like the Tille too I must say.
Issues with wicking if anyone can help. See my pics of build. Lowere right is me trimming the rayon, before trimming to length.
2.5mm diam, 28 guage, 7 wraps counter clockwise to place upside down, 1.1-1.2 ohm, 30/70 vg heavy liquid, approx 13 watts.
Advise helpful, thank you.
The pic did not show me cutting to size, I was actually cutting it too short....cutting it like I would a Tille. I am having a great vape thinning the rayon yes, but also keeping a thin tail all the way down the juice channel. I was cutting it too short before, however the Tille has no issues this way. Pene, for me, likes a thin and longer tail. Great vape now.
vasilis told me that some Tilemahos had this issue but he didnt asked me how to fix it because he forgot it. He had a lot of work to do before send the orders to customers.
I made Tilemahos base with o-rings on it, so you will be able to change o-rings and make AD ring harder ot softer. So, what you have to do it to put 2 o-rings 16x1
IMEO ... I received my first 23mm TILEMAHOS
and the solid SS tube : ) whooooaaaaaaa ... how cool is that ... awesome love it great hammer ... did i mention that i love it ?????? anyway ... are these O-ring sizes you mentioned in the ORING set for Tilemahos V2 ???THANK YOU and have a wonderful evening GG girls & guys !!!
I am glad you love it BT!!!
These o-rings are not included on set but I will include them from now on
These o-rings are not included on set but I will include them from now on
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