Polished brass buttons indeed. If you are concerned about corrosion on the buttons, renaissance wax would be good for protecting them as well. Shaping up nicely there, BTW. 
This is for the birds!
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Hiya Fearless
For the price of the power bank I'd just roll with a build myself, they're a little over three bucks. What I should let you know first is this is not an easy build, tolerance is very slim fitting the SXJ into the power bank enclosure. As I mentioned below the last picture I posted the routing of the wires is going to be a trick I wasn't expecting. I tried aligning the - wire next to the transformer on the board and the battery bound up on it. If I would have been wise enough to look ahead I would have soldered the spring loaded connection for the bottom cap on the other side.
This build would need some form of isolation for the 9volt charging circuit, I'm building it as a 60 watt not 120. The interior brass structure works as the - pole from the batteries so the yellow wire from the charging circuit wouldn't be able to be connected in between the + and - of the batteries as it should be if I'm correct.
Maybe it would be best for you to look at the dimensions of the charging circuit board and SXJ before you make too many plans. Combined they take up some space.
The dna reads ohms already? I'm a little lost with building another ohms reader into something that has one.
In the 3D print there is what I have referred to as a cavernous build space, this was partially intended to make it easier for people to build in besides the fact that it just laid out that way with the intention of making it modular. I'll have to put some thought into the switching from parallel to series circuit, I don't imagine it's impossible but it sounds tricky.
Thanks I took some time and effort with the brass.
One note about the 3D color prints is they are best sealed right out of the package with a clear coat. I'm far from a pro with the 3D coatings/finishes I just botched an effort at a coating on a print bad enough the print went the way of the Dodo.
Thanks for the input guys! The original button actuators were looking a little too busy for me so I did mill some polished brass ones. No more round stock in stock so I managed with some flat bar I had and a rotary table on my mill to get the large button started. The little ones came from salvaged brass cleaning rods for rifles.
And I do think these are better suited to the application, thanks!
For the price of the power bank I'd just roll with a build myself, they're a little over three bucks. What I should let you know first is this is not an easy build, tolerance is very slim fitting the SXJ into the power bank enclosure. As I mentioned below the last picture I posted the routing of the wires is going to be a trick I wasn't expecting. I tried aligning the - wire next to the transformer on the board and the battery bound up on it. If I would have been wise enough to look ahead I would have soldered the spring loaded connection for the bottom cap on the other side.
This build would need some form of isolation for the 9volt charging circuit, I'm building it as a 60 watt not 120. The interior brass structure works as the - pole from the batteries so the yellow wire from the charging circuit wouldn't be able to be connected in between the + and - of the batteries as it should be if I'm correct.
Maybe it would be best for you to look at the dimensions of the charging circuit board and SXJ before you make too many plans. Combined they take up some space.
The dna reads ohms already? I'm a little lost with building another ohms reader into something that has one.
In the 3D print there is what I have referred to as a cavernous build space, this was partially intended to make it easier for people to build in besides the fact that it just laid out that way with the intention of making it modular. I'll have to put some thought into the switching from parallel to series circuit, I don't imagine it's impossible but it sounds tricky.
Thanks I took some time and effort with the brass.
One note about the 3D color prints is they are best sealed right out of the package with a clear coat. I'm far from a pro with the 3D coatings/finishes I just botched an effort at a coating on a print bad enough the print went the way of the Dodo.
Thanks for the input guys! The original button actuators were looking a little too busy for me so I did mill some polished brass ones. No more round stock in stock
so I managed with some flat bar I had and a rotary table on my mill to get the large button started. The little ones came from salvaged brass cleaning rods for rifles.
And I do think these are better suited to the application, thanks!
The reason I building a real ohm meter wattage meter voltmeter on the last stage is I build nickle wire it can't built hot and most ohm meter are off from the start more the your total ohmage should be altogether the 10 ohm meters that ore out today are completely useless they have tolerance of .2 you build is supposed to .1 to .12 you need it do proper build so you need a ohm meter that tolerance starters .01 .018 not .2 also the one i am building all the gadgets in is for me and I want to try the damn near impossible .
Also I like to know voltage drops on different atty and PVD;s I like to see if I modify pin it make any difference So amy the new ohm meter for nickle are 30$ Build it in I intend to take the power from the 4.2 bats but the main fire button will locker out to preventing sending power into a ohm meter but your right that might just bue overcomplication things
Also I like to know voltage drops on different atty and PVD;s I like to see if I modify pin it make any difference So amy the new ohm meter for nickle are 30$ Build it in I intend to take the power from the 4.2 bats but the main fire button will locker out to preventing sending power into a ohm meter but your right that might just bue overcomplication things
Fearless, can you give me a link or something to your ohm meter. All the ones for sale are over priced or under built and want to build one into a workstation I have planned.
Oh, I've been using a $10 ohms tester I got from FT that measures exactly the same as the DNA40 does.
Your other thread had a post of a parallel/series switch that was pretty interesting.
Your other thread had a post of a parallel/series switch that was pretty interesting.
I bought one of the FT cheap ones, the 510 packed in straight away. I've stripped it to use the board and bits but was hoping to buy just the cheap boards so we here.
The 510/ego in the one have is working it's way loose from the plastic housing but it's been around a while too. I has served me well.
I sure typoed that last post and am thinking about changing the title of this thread to My Big Test as this build is proving to be a challenge.
It looks like I need to mill down the height of my + and - buttons so everything will slide into place without getting stuck. The + contact for the 510 is now soldered up and the batteries + springs/insulators are in place, the + wire from the board had to be locked in place so the batteries will not be as snug as the test fit. I isolated some areas of the boards with liquid tape so the mounting springs won't go to ground, this is just a measure of safety as they look as though they shouldn't make contact with anything on the board.
Some isolating with fiberglass tape behind the transformer and some to guard against heat transfer while soldering the ground and spring stanchions in place with the board in the brass interior structure than it's install time. Yikes!
It looks like I need to mill down the height of my + and - buttons so everything will slide into place without getting stuck. The + contact for the 510 is now soldered up and the batteries + springs/insulators are in place, the + wire from the board had to be locked in place so the batteries will not be as snug as the test fit. I isolated some areas of the boards with liquid tape so the mounting springs won't go to ground, this is just a measure of safety as they look as though they shouldn't make contact with anything on the board.
Some isolating with fiberglass tape behind the transformer and some to guard against heat transfer while soldering the ground and spring stanchions in place with the board in the brass interior structure than it's install time. Yikes!
Are the men in the white coats here yet?
Edited for test pic
Edited for test pic
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I just happen to have one of those.
Thanks guys!
It went in but not easily, the + and - buttons got scratched up pretty good but I may be able to do something with them once the epoxy on the springs sets up. A little sanding and buffing to the interior of the bottom and two - posts in it and I should be good to go.
Not sure but I may still be able to slide the partitions in that I had planned for originally to separate the batteries from the electrical area. Guess I could get a Q-tip in there and clean some of the crud out to once the epoxy cures.
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It's in the bag. One functioning parallel 18650 SX350J Vapor Flask!
Now I just have to figure out how to run it.
One functioning parallel 18650 SX350J Vapor Flask!Now I just have to figure out how to run it.
Turned out brilliant. It really does does look tight inside. Wish I had the talent and patience.
Big thumbs up from me.
Big thumbs up from me.
Thank you sir, much appreciated.Well done sir, well done indeed.
Honestly I think luck has been on my side with this one, I wasn't sure I could make it happen. Thank you!
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