BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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True enough Asdaq, which is exactly why machining C464 is so nasty, I'd much rather machine SS if only for the fact that SS has a conductivity rating less than cast iron, it's really bad...and then take what circular mil area of SS we have for conduction of the center pin and bore a nice big hole in it? (I have to wonder why there's a trend to drill the biggest hole possible for an easy squonk in SS?...it's like we're proactively gunning for max. v drop 
).
I think we really have to be realistic here...even if you did use free machining brass for a center pin and you decided not to pickle it...any surface lead is no doubt washed up into our wick and coils and ya, we're exposed to it, but only until the surface lead is washed away...but seriously, consider the level of exposure we're talking about here...if you knew the level of harmful trace elements, moulds, asbestos, etc. we ingest everyday through breathing the air or eating a can of tuna you'd stroke out...
After 30yrs of 2 pack a day habit I'm a little beyond living like bubble boy now
).I think we really have to be realistic here...even if you did use free machining brass for a center pin and you decided not to pickle it...any surface lead is no doubt washed up into our wick and coils and ya, we're exposed to it, but only until the surface lead is washed away...but seriously, consider the level of exposure we're talking about here...if you knew the level of harmful trace elements, moulds, asbestos, etc. we ingest everyday through breathing the air or eating a can of tuna you'd stroke out...
After 30yrs of 2 pack a day habit I'm a little beyond living like bubble boy now
Yeah Quigs you're 100% right on that. We've gone in many ways over the top on the brass issue.
People make a huge deal about the type of brass their atties are made of then go buy a a brass DT on the cheap from fastech. Go figure?
People make a huge deal about the type of brass their atties are made of then go buy a a brass DT on the cheap from fastech. Go figure?
I missed you guys.
Just checking to see if I can still post pics.....
Perhaps a 2tone alu/brass would look nice too CC. Nice work as always bud
Man just came back from Sao Paulo, Brasil (14:50 flight 
) and I missed out on some incredible wood that was up for sale. All sold out
) and I missed out on some incredible wood that was up for sale. All sold out
Online metals is a good source for naval brass as they are in a ship building community (literally next to a bridge in the ship canal in Seattle) and I'm quite lucky to live in another ship building region (Gdansk- go Solidarity!) so I can locally source naval brass and comparable aluminum alloys quite easily. For my primitive tools, alu is much easier to work with and long ago I chose it for in my atties and cannot complain. It does not corrode or discolor, and the conductivity is great too. Sure, someone can find fault with any metal and we all make compromises along the way, but also we have our personal favorites.
Couldn't have said that any better...some have a taste intolerance so I do get the SS thing from that perspective, I can detect 1 part/billion of cilantro...it makes me just about heave.
I just recall the early days in the modders threads where if you dare buck convention and used anything other than SS you were labelled a heretic and shunned to the ECF netheryaya (how often do you get to quote Chaucer?
)...sure, a lot of the old legends and voodoo has been dis-proven, but there still seems to be a brass thing kept alive by the uninformed.I agree with the aluminum thing huge...great conductor, light, tough, for the best of me I can't understand why it hasn't used in RDA's, you just have to be mindful of the threading...if it was offered up as an option say when I was in to Magmas...I wouldn't have given it a second though.
Just awesome, Quigs.
Need to see it with the lights down low so we can see the blue glow of the dna....
Very cool, man.
Need to see it with the lights down low so we can see the blue glow of the dna....
Very cool, man.
It's not as cool as I would've thought...it's not bright enough, though I guess I could disco it up a bit more with some leds
I will say this much...ok, I've built a clear mod...time to move on...big pita
I will say this much...ok, I've built a clear mod...time to move on...big pita
"Man just came back from Sao Paulo, Brasil (14:50 flight
I checked when there was still a lot left and they were all too small, nothing close enough to 1 X 2
Couldn't have said that any better...some have a taste intolerance so I do get the SS thing from that perspective, I can detect 1 part/billion of cilantro...it makes me just about heave.
I just recall the early days in the modders threads where if you dare buck convention and used anything other than SS you were labelled a heretic and shunned to the ECF netheryaya (how often do you get to quote Chaucer?
I agree with the aluminum thing huge...great conductor, light, tough, for the best of me I can't understand why it hasn't used in RDA's, you just have to be mindful of the threading...if it was offered up as an option say when I was in to Magmas...I wouldn't have given it a second though.
I don't think aluminum in direct contact with juice is a good idea, otherwise with a lathe you could make aluminum atty caps and even aluminum atties pretty easily. aluminum corrodes right away and that would prolly be soaked into the juice...
personally I like ss for all juice contact. I can live with brass or copper for a driptip or atty afc sleeve, but if it's in the juice stream I sometimes think I can taste it. I just don't like tasting it, ss is clean and sterile, sanitary.
to me ideal would be a silver pin, that would cover the taste and sanitary issue and reduce voltage drop too, but honestly I don't find any problems with my SS needles at all.
Nice Job Quigs
I was under the impression that if you removed the whole onboard fire button, the chip would not fire (DNA40)
with out a jumper.
From your pics the fire button is gone and I don't see a jumper, And it all works good?
I was under the impression that if you removed the whole onboard fire button, the chip would not fire (DNA40)
with out a jumper.
From your pics the fire button is gone and I don't see a jumper, And it all works good?
Nice Job Quigs
I was under the impression that if you removed the whole onboard fire button, the chip would not fire (DNA40)
with out a jumper.
From your pics the fire button is gone and I don't see a jumper, And it all works good?
Yup, you can just cut the button off, it's in parallel with 3 and 4 so either/or will fire it
Gotta pick up some brass rod to make the button... Other than that, it's basically done. Pics are not doing this one justice. It is super bright and shiny in person...
What do you guys think of the bead blasted finish on the 6061?
What do you guys think of the bead blasted finish on the 6061?
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CC you've become a kickazz machinist buddy. Although I personally prefer the Alu one (the brass is a bit too bling for me) but I have to tip my hat to you.
The media blasted Alu is fantastic, great idea to do that
Fantastic work buddy
The media blasted Alu is fantastic, great idea to do that
Fantastic work buddy
If you ever decide to make a business out of this hobby put me down as your first customer for a media blasted Alu.
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