Jim, your method for dialing in the temp is exactly what I've been doing as well... Works like a champ
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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There is this live chat thing going on here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zypGY3QYgPU and they are slagging off our M Class 
Such a shame these guys are talking such BS.... I tuned in and within 5 mins I heard "Don't buy SX M!!! buy dna" at least seven times.
We really need honest reviewers or things just get even harder
Such a shame these guys are talking such BS.... I tuned in and within 5 mins I heard "Don't buy SX M!!! buy dna" at least seven times.
We really need honest reviewers or things just get even harder
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The problem is those people are probably running their battery down much further. You're probably only running your battery to 3.6 volts. Amirite?
There is this live chat thing going on here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zypGY3QYgPU and they are slagging off our M Class
Such a shame these guys are talking such BS.... I tuned in and within 5 mins I heard "Don't buy SX M!!! Buy DNA" at least seven times.
We really need honest reviewers or things just get even harder
Edit: I was a little harsh. I re-watched as I jumped in a few hours into the show and they seemed to be bashing. They were a little but not in a bad way. So sorry for my bad. Sorry Peg if you read this
Nope. I run mine down to 3.3V when the SXmini won't fire anymore - no reason to charge them early. All modern high quality cells are good down to 2.5V, not that you'd want to get too close too often. The nominal voltage is 3.7V and a full charge is 4.2V, so the minimum would be 3.2V. Also of interest, the SXmini at 60W with 3.3V left in the cell will demand 20A based on YiHi's stated efficiency rating for the SXmini. That's why the cut off voltage at 3.3V, and the manual says to use at least a 20A battery.
I must say that one of the thnigs that drew me to the M Class is all the saftey features. I have worked on some over engineered products in the past and the M Class reminded me of some of them. I think a good 20 amp cell is good enough too. A parallel setup would be nice.
It's funny how no one wants inductive charging. I would have thought all portable deviced would have had this feature by now. Someone should design a USB inductive dong just to shut me up...
Happy Sunday All
seems to me that the standard mode hits harder than the powerful or powerfu+. I think Busardo saw this on the scope. Anyone else getting this??
I also just noticed that very occasionally, the + button will change mode rather than go to memory banks. After diaply sleep it goes away and works as normal..
I also just noticed that very occasionally, the + button will change mode rather than go to memory banks. After diaply sleep it goes away and works as normal..
As confirmed here:
I was thinking the same thing but if you look at what pbsaurdo does in his tests, it shows that in temp mode @ 50 joules, it powerful/powerful plus doesn't actually go higher. What he neglected to show it at a lower setting, because I believe it infact does boost the voltage up more at lower settings. Such as if set to 40 joules, it will boost it similar to 50 joules. I am not sure if its the same way in power mode at the 60 watt settings but I would think so. Basically if your running at 50 joules, standard seems to actually be the best settings giving you the highest amount of volts throughout. In powerful/powerful+ mode at 50 joules, it seems to be more like soft mode, where its actually lower/ then boosts up at 50 joules for whatever reason. That actually makes no sense why it does that to me, as at least they should of had it just work as standard mode in anything but soft @ 50 joules if its going to take a performance hit which is actually opposite of what it should do. I haven't seen it on the scope but my guess again is that it probably works correctly just like it does in power mode at settings lower than 50 joules. Just if you have it set to 50 joules, you should only use the soft if thats how u like it or standard.
I do not understand this. I repeatedly followed jim's instructions. I cannot get serious flavor and production out of the kanger ni200. unless I am at very high settings. much higher than most people use. it is like the difference between a fizzle and plumes. what I don't understand is it is kicking it down to about 220f anyways. I have to put it that high to have it kick it down just to get any results. I have to do the same thing with the dna40. perhaps I expect too much from the kanger. any possible explanation for this?
Just taking a shot in the dark here, I don't have a subtank and I haven't tried below 400°; I prefer 450-500 range
Are you letting both cool before pairing the?
As a side note, and this may be wrong, but I'm noticing better performance with build between a 0.05 and a 0.12
What Kanger Sub -tank are you using? What ohm reading do you start at when it is first sync'd to the SX? Is the coil one you built or a Kanger nickel coil? What is your joules and temp set at? Maybe I can help ya...
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I've done three nickel builds so far with two Delta 2s and one Kanger Subtank mini. all three are running twisted 2 strand 30g with 8 wraps. Average reading when coils are cool is 0.086. I get plenty of warm vapor with pretty good flavor.
Forgot to add the SX is set to 30j @ 430f.
Forgot to add the SX is set to 30j @ 430f.
Nic_fix, give this method a try... He at first sets the Joules low and then works his way up. I do it a little different but similar.
My current coil that I am using right now is baselined out at .090 on my Lemo 2. I am now setting my Joules to only 8J on Standard mode and set my temp somewhere high depending on the ejuice. With VG I am finding that I have to go about 30-40F higher than a lower VG ratio. YMMV. So I might start out at say 530F. I then fire it watching it rise up to what it wants to level out to so I can get an idea of where things like to play out. If you hold down the fire button even longer it will start to creep up even more, but I am looking for that First Plateau that it settles down on at first which may only last about a second. I am doing this while just watching the mod and not vaping and trying to look at it with a mirror. That might actually work better but it is too inconvenient for me. lol
With the ejuice I am using now, which is high VG, I hit 480F where it seems to stabilize out even though my temp is set to 530F. I have found no good reason to go above the 480F with my current build since the ejuice doesn't seem to vaporize any better above that. Believe me I have tried. It just seems to waste ejuice turning into a gas rather than a vapor. So I then bring down my temp to 480F and start bringing up the joules to where the temperature doesn't jump around too much while watching the temp and adjusting the Joules. Repeating it again and again. If you set the joules too high the temp may jump as much as 50F higher than what you have it set at and it is bouncing all around trying to keep it at your temp even though you are giving it more power than it needs. I can guarantee you if you set it at 50J you will see the temp going crazy and not very stable at all. Too high a Joules setting and you are just having your mod have a fight with itself so to speak.
At a good joules setting I find that it may just hit the temp mark you set or maybe just jump about 4-6F at most more than your setting. In my current build I hit it at 21J. Once you see that you are reaching the optimum temperature and just the right amount of joules you will get the best vaporization of your ejuice. You can then set the mode to Soft, Powerful, Powerful + or just keep it on the Standard mode depending on your style or mood. That is just the ramp up or down and for your personal preference and only used for the first 2 seconds of your vape. With this technique I am finding great cloud production and able to distinctly enjoy all aspects of the flavor. Just an awesome experience IMHO.
I have also done this technique with my Delta II RBA and the Kanger Subtank Mini with RBA or with the Prebuilt Nickel coils. My experience has found that depending on the resistance of the coil, the build type, the resistance of the atty itself, and the ejuice, the numbers may play out to be much different. My temp settings have settled in anywhere from 380F to 540F depending on the combination of the variables. I am finding that the actual value in temperature may or may not be accurate in real world terms, but it is a constant with the same tank, build, wicking, ejuice, etc. There are just too many variables to just make a statement of which is the right number for me and every build or coil is potentially different. It is not a sleep number bed type of deal. lol
We are all learning how to use this technology and it is what it is which is not perfect. But if we can learn to use the tech to our advantage we may achieve our goals. In my case I want it safe, big clouds, and lots of flavor.
I am curious to see if anyone else has tried or can try this technique and see if their results are as promising as I have had. If someone else has had some other technique to find those magic numbers please share it so we can all learn and enjoy from it.
I know, tell me, I must have OCD right?
That is the way I did it more or less. Started out at 10J 380 worked up to 410 18J which has been working for me for 4 days. If I chain vape the vapor falls off a litlle. I think the coil is getting older and building up to a higher resistance. If I let it sit for a few minutes it's right back to normal. My build is at .1
As a side note my S class is better for chain vaping with Kanthal but the flavor is better by quite a bit with my M with nickel. Go figure. I do find that the soft setting is more to my liking sometimes standard in Joules mode. I am still using it between 18-22J 410
I don't know, I find my nickel builds are muted on flavor a bit, but with a higher J, it gets better? I still want to figure what joules actually do when I adjust it. It shouldn't really matter right? Temp is what we're looking to control.
I think the Joules are very similar to watts. If I watch the battery sag it gets greater the higher the joules are set using the same temp and seems a little hotter. That is just going between 18 and 25.
So after about 3 days of messing around I still can't get a satisfying vape. I've tried the methods shown above and just can't seem to get it right. I'm sure it's user error and not the device. My Subtank mini seems to be working better than my Lemo 2 which I can hardly get any vapor or flavor. I don't know if it's my build, my wicking, or my settings. But not matter what I try I just can't seem to get it down. I just rebuilt the lemo and am getting a .11 I'm not sure if it's not wicking well enough to keep up? Have to crank up everything to get anything close to satisfying and then it drops off after a few pulls.
the lemo2 on my sxM is one of the best vapes I've had from a tank.
its built at a 0.07 with 28g ni200(7 spaced wraps around a 3mm bit) 440 degrees and 32 joules.
all I can think of is maybe you have the coil to large? Not spaced? Do you have a connections ?
Yes, they are spaced. I think I'm having issues with the connections. When I pair it, it pairs at .11 then I I'll try again in q bit and it's all over the place. I believe I'm just having issues building on the Lemo. I'm also building around a 3mm bit. Just trial and error I suppose! Thanks for the tips.
I agree, also watch your temp on the display when firing it for a couple seconds. If it's constantly going above your set temp, it may be a wicking problem.
I can't say enough good things about the SX Mini M. I loved my first one so much, I got a second. Temp control is a real game changer for me. Even though I ground down the juice channels, on a normal VW mod, Id still get dry hits when chain vaping. Not any more!!!
I can't say enough good things about the SX Mini M. I loved my first one so much, I got a second. Temp control is a real game changer for me. Even though I ground down the juice channels, on a normal VW mod, Id still get dry hits when chain vaping. Not any more!!!
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