Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Vassago01]

The battery caps should be yellow (brass) one lead (positive) on battery cap other on base of atty. Fire it and read the voltage. Set it to 20 volts dc scale.

thanks I will do this in the AM, volt meter is in my car.

 

[TheBloke]

Cut off time, I'm not sure just how long but would be no less than 12 seconds, probably a little longer.

FYI the cut-off time on my Waidea is 24 seconds.

If I just fire it with my Kanger mini in normal mode, non Temp Control after about 2 seconds on a high watt it will stop firing. Mind you this is without me taking a drag on it. I am thinking that this is some sort of protection mode. When I take a drag on it while pressing the fire button it will not stop the power only when I fire it without dragging on it.

Does anyone have any idea if this is a correct function of the mod.

So no, that is not normal at all. I've fired mine a lot while not taking a drag and the cut-out is the same.

I suppose that when one is taking a hit, the ground circuit is different than when one is not? Especially if in the "no hit" scenario, the mod is not held in the hand but is resting on a table and your only interaction is pressing the button.

I wonder what would happen if you repeated that "no hit" test, but this time pressed your hand on the top plate or held onto the atty (as long as it doesn't get too hot!)

Anyway, you definitely have a problem and it's surely going to be the same ground one that many of us have had to varying degrees.

 

[AnsonJames]

It actually is a 1.3 Hex size bit. So i took it apart and checked the ground and all seemed tight and connected well so I screwed it back together and tried it again and it seems to be firing better now. Not sure what it is but it is now doing something that i had not seen before in my short time using it. If I just fire it with my Kanger mini in normal mode, non Temp Control after about 2 seconds on a high watt it will stop firing. Mind you this is without me taking a drag on it. I am thinking that this is some sort of protection mode. When I take a drag on it while pressing the fire button it will not stop the power only when I fire it without dragging on it.

Does anyone have any idea if this is a correct function of the mod.

T.6 worked for me, so both are fine.

 

[TheBloke]

To check for a bad ground probe battery cap with one lead from a volt meter and the other lead to the base of the atomizer (or ground of the mod's 510, the outside), fire it and read the voltage. It should be 0.1 volt or less, hopefully around 0.02 or less.

I recently got a multimeter and although I didn't believe I was currently having any ground issues, I ran this test just now for funsies (and to find something else to do with my DMM!)

I pushed the red lead into the groove of the battery cap (and also tried one of the vent holes), and held the black lead against the base of my Lemo RTA, as low down as possible on the bottom gnurling.

I tested in wattage mode with a 1.40 single coil. The value I got depended on the wattage the mod was firing:

At 40W, it read -0.0175 (-17.55 in Millivolt mode)
At 35W, it read -0.0154 (-15.44 in Millivolt mode)
At 10W, it read -0.0030 (-3.10 in Millivolt mode)

Nice to have a good reading I have taken my top plate off a couple of times, and the most recent time I ensured the hex screws were tightened down as hard as humanly possible - pressing down on the plate while screwing, as Croak advised.

 

[dwcraig1]

^^^ mine was something around 0.03 volts @ 40 watts which I view as excellent. That is how I check my mechanical mods, particularly good with multi-tubed ones, you can find the exact joint where the HR is.

 

[TheBloke]

^^^ mine was something around 0.03 volts @ 40 watts which I view as excellent. That is how I check my mechanical mods, particularly good with multi-tubed ones, you can find the exact joint where the HR is.

Just did a 40W test as well for completeness - 17.55 mV. So if 30mV / 0.03V is already excellent, I'm pleased!

PS. What is HR?

 

[Ryedan]

I have a question that I suspect was probably addressed before, but reading all 2,765 posts in this thread is a bit daunting so I'll just ask

I have a Kangxin V3. I noticed the screen is probably the unprotected screen that's attached to the board. I sometimes get the top of the mod a bit wet with juice. Is this a problem and if so, how do people handle it?

Thanks.

 

[Croak]

It's not prone to shorting, if that's what you're worried about. It's glass, and the ribbon cable is sealed inside the glass. I just clean mine with a micro-fiber cloth when it needs it.

Some folks use a bit of mobile phone screen protector film across the top.

 

[dwcraig1]

Just did a 40W test as well for completeness - 17.55 mV. So if 30mV / 0.03V is already excellent, I'm pleased!

PS. What is HR?

HR = high resistance

 

[dwcraig1]

I haven't been giving much love to my BF Flask since getting the new one. I just picked up the BF one by mistake, what a beast with it's dual coiled (Kanthal) dripper.

 

[nelsonm64]

my kangxin flask died yesterday it's the version with no USB charging.... it worked great right up until it wouldn't turn on anymore, completely dead.... I hope 3fvape is good about it... sent them a video as requested, now the wait

 

[Vassago01]

Ok so now I am frustrated LOL my craftsman meter does not have a 20v setting I have a 600v, 200v, 2v and 200mv and the readings I get are not even close to what you guys are stating. If i have it set to 2v and I do the test my meter shows -.490 when I have the device set at 35w. I don't know how to translate what I am getting on my meter to one with a 20v setting. I am not huge into electronic so if someone could help me with the settings I do have that would be awesome.

see post two down for what I get on 200v seeting on meter. Maybe that will help.

 

[Hammy75]

my kangxin flask died yesterday it's the version with no USB charging.... it worked great right up until it wouldn't turn on anymore, completely dead.... I hope 3fvape is good about it... sent them a video as requested, now the wait

Same thing happened to mine (USB version). Worked great for 5 days then smack dab in the middle of a 16 hour drive nothing. I am sure they will take care of you.

 

[Vassago01]

If i set my multi meter to 200v and run the same test at 35w I get a reading on my meter of -00.4 if I set my flask to 10w and perform the same test with meter set to 200v i get -00.1 what does this mean. I wish I had a meter that measured at the 20v level but i don't.

Edit..

Ok when I set my meter to 2v setting and I place positive lead on battery bottom and neg lead on bottom of atty and I set watts to 30w on flask and fire the meter shows -.473 now when i do this same test on my Kanger IPV mini set to 30w my meter shows -.121 and when i set my MOXIE mod to 30w and perform the same test my meter shows -.010

Can some one tell me what this means? It looks as if the FV is higher but is it showing a bad ground?

 

[Angel Eyes]

OK, got a new flask in, and after using it for a while, I am becoming convinced this is the one to have, it is the Waidea built one, SKU 14298 from Focal E-cig - with stainless steel 510 connector and I have had NO ISSUES in the first 2 weeks of use.

● The craftsmanship and fit/finish is amazing, it is exceeding hard to tell this unit from an authentic vapor flask. The unit is heavy and just reeks of high quality. Even the vape store staff is convinced this is a real Vapor Flask and think I am just pulling their leg about it being clone!

● The unit came in with the display in the wrong (upside down) mode, which they called "right" mode, but is upside down for a right hander, and while it came with no instructions, I was able to watch some vapor flask videos and mess around for a while and get the display into left mode, which is oriented correctly for right-hand operation.

● The only preparation I did was cleaning the two battery screw caps with DeOxit (red) cleaner and then treating the threads with NoAlox

● Shipping was fast from China, once they got it in stock, about 12 days to my door in USA, and I think they are now stocking it in USA under SKU 14290

● I am using the LG 18650HE2 batteries frum Illumn.com and they are lasting a pretty good while (two days) and I would recommend them.

● The charger I bought is the NITECORE Digicharger D2 and I like it and it was cheap!

● I am using TEMCO Ni200 28 gauge wire, 14 wraps around a 2.4mm shaft screwdriver (coils not touching each other), and the resistance is 0.16 ohm - I will likely start using titanium wire soon (I think it's likely healthier).

I am using the original Kanger Subtank, which fits this Vapor Flask perfectly and I HIGHLY recommend this tank! - Easy to build and this tank does not leak, regardless of whether you carry it in your pocket, upside down, etc. - something I cannot say about most any other tank or RTA. - It also allows rebuilding the coil without emptying your juice supply!


Follow the recipe above, and you will find vaping bliss!

 

[Vassago01]

The battery caps should be yellow (brass) one lead (positive) on battery cap other on base of atty. Fire it and read the voltage. Set it to 20 volts dc scale.

Ok when I set my meter to 2v setting (since I dont have a 20v seeting on meter only 600v, 200v 2v & 200mv) and I place positive lead on battery bottom and neg lead on bottom of atty and I set watts to 30w on flask and fire the meter shows -.473 now when i do this same test on my Kanger IPV mini set to 30w my meter shows -.121 and when i set my MOXIE mod to 30w and perform the same test my meter shows -.010

Can some one tell me what this means? It looks as if the FV is higher but is it showing a bad ground?

Edit!!!!!!!!! so i tried the FV again this time set to 23w and performed the same test and help the fire button steady still it leveled out on the meter reading and I get a reading of -.012 then it goes to no - and shows .190

is this ok?

I am so totally confused now. It seems to be working correct it does not do the stop firing like I said before in earlier post with the Kanger mini tank. I think i was just letting up on the button maybe.

I am starting to think that reading this thread has made me paranoid and it is working correct and I haven't even tried it with the ni200 coils yet only in non temp control mode.

 

[nelsonm64]

Same thing happened to mine (USB version). Worked great for 5 days then smack dab in the middle of a 16 hour drive nothing. I am sure they will take care of you.

i'm sure they will but, how long will it take... took 2 months to arrive the first time now, i'm sure it will have to showup on their door step before they send a new one. that's potentially 4 months and do they cover shipping both ways? sure hope so! it'll cost atleast $20 to send it to china i'm bummed bigtime to say the least...

 

[TheBloke]

I am so totally confused now. It seems to be working correct it does not do the stop firing like I said before in earlier post with the Kanger mini tank. I think i was just letting up on the button maybe.

I am starting to think that reading this thread has made me paranoid and it is working correct and I haven't even tried it with the ni200 coils yet only in non temp control mode.

It's certainly possible to get paranoid reading threads like these!

But it regularly cutting out while firing is certainly not normal. Only you can say if it's possible that you weren't pressing the fire when you thought you were - I've had that problem repeatedly on my iStick 50W, which has a less than great fire button contact, but never yet on the VF. I've done lots of long fire tests, both with and without taking a hit, in multiple positions (in my hand, on the desk, etc) and never once had it stop firing other than from the 24 second cutout.

So if you're finding it doing that regularly, and it's definitely the fire button not connecting, then it could be your fire button connection perhaps.

@dwcraig1 or someone else knowledgeable on circuits will comment on the volt meter readings soon. If it is indeed showing as high as .473V then that's vastly outside the acceptable range that dwcraig mentioned. I don't think using a different scale affects it (on a digital meter) as long as it's within range - I am pretty sure that a 2V scale on a digital volt meter means that the figure on the screen is accurate as long as the input voltage is no more than 2V, and therefore .473 means what it says, .473V, which is way out - 47 times higher than dwcraig said was the highest acceptable. Then again, so seemingly is your reading from the IPV Mini! But I'm often wrong about these things, and I don't know why dwcraig asked for that scale specifically (except perhaps just to ensure it was definitely high enough), so you'll need to wait for a definitive answer there.

In the meantime, I would do the volt readings again to be absolutely sure of them (ensuring leads are always tight against the mod/atty, for example), and also keep testing the fire to see if you can rule the fire button in or out as the cause of your earlier symptoms.

 

[dwcraig1]

I use the setting on the meter that I have that I would use to check the 18650 battery but the 2 volt scale as long as it's DC sounds good to me. As far as 0.473 v, if correct is quite a bit.

 

[Vassago01]

It's certainly possible to get paranoid reading threads like these!

But it regularly cutting out while firing is certainly not normal. Only you can say if it's possible that you weren't pressing the fire when you thought you were - I've had that problem repeatedly on my iStick 50W, which has a less than great fire button contact, but never yet on the VF. I've done lots of long fire tests, both with and without taking a hit, in multiple positions (in my hand, on the desk, etc) and never once had it stop firing other than from the 24 second cutout.

So if you're finding it doing that regularly, and it's definitely the fire button not connecting, then it could be your fire button connection perhaps.

@dwcraig1 or someone else knowledgeable on circuits will comment on the volt meter readings soon. If it is indeed showing as high as .473V then that's vastly outside the acceptable range that dwcraig mentioned. I don't think using a different scale affects it (on a digital meter) as long as it's within range - I am pretty sure that a 2V scale on a digital volt meter means that the figure on the screen is accurate as long as the input voltage is no more than 2V, and therefore .473 means what it says, .473V, which is way out - 47 times higher than dwcraig said was the highest acceptable. Then again, so seemingly is your reading from the IPV Mini! But I'm often wrong about these things, and I don't know why dwcraig asked for that scale specifically (except perhaps just to ensure it was definitely high enough), so you'll need to wait for a definitive answer there.

In the meantime, I would do the volt readings again to be absolutely sure of them (ensuring leads are always tight against the mod/atty, for example), and also keep testing the fire to see if you can rule the fire button in or out as the cause of your earlier symptoms.

I tested the fire button thing again and it is not cutting off as I previously stated. I also did the volt check again with 23w and I get an initial reading of -.012 but if I continue to hold it goes to .190 (without the - in front) and seems to stop. Mind you this is holding the fire button for Between 5 and 8 seconds. I didn't want to keep doing this cause the atty was getting hot. Dual coil kanthol build at .7 ohm.