SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Vlad1

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What size wire are you using in that Lemo 2? I was having a similar issue to yours and it was because I was getting a hot leg. I don't know how or why I was getting a hot leg. I went from 30 to a twisted 30 build and no longer get the hot leg. I must have done 20 different 30awg coils and got a hot leg every time


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I didn't even think about that.:facepalm: With the low resistance were able to use I kind of just think everyone uses 26 - 28 awg like me. :)
 

druckle

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What size wire are you using in that Lemo 2? I was having a similar issue to yours and it was because I was getting a hot leg. I don't know how or why I was getting a hot leg. I went from 30 to a twisted 30 build and no longer get the hot leg. I must have done 20 different 30awg coils and got a hot leg every time


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I do a little double back/twist of the coil wire tail and it seems to do away with the hot leg issue entirely. It's a little bit of a pain to do but if I get all the connection tail into a double twisted configuration I not only eliminate hot legs but never have problems with attys with holes in the post cutting the tail when I tighten down the screw in the post. It's a lot easier to do after a couple of practice trials and seems well worth it to me. This seems to work especially well with TC on the M class.
 
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jackmormon

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So Im still having the same issues with my Lemo 2 as before. Starting it out low (something like 13j at .065-.068 ohms) and watching the temp and it consistently goes up and hovers to whatever my set temp is like it should. Had it at 24J and 465. Then it slowly starts to die off, and the temp does not rise. Just jumps up to its set point and starts going bonkers. IM almost positive it's the wicking. I cannot seem to get it right and I've tried everything. Just to make sure I'm not crazy I did the same build on a subtank mini, and it's working just as it should consistently. Disappointing I can't get it right because Im not the biggest fan of the airflow/flavor the STM puts out and those first few draws on the Lemo are perfect.

I want to know what fixes this! I am having the EXACT same experience. Have my Lemo 2 with a 7 wrap, 28G, 3mm ID coild clocking in at .079 ohms. It worked fantastic for about a half hour and now it IMMEDIATELY hits temp no matter 400F or 500F, as soon as I press fire it is at temp. Very weak vape. Not a wicking issue either - I have been wicking Lemos for 6+ months and have checked that variable several times. The Lemo 2 won't even register a consistent reading ohm reading on a DNA40. I am thinking a 510 issue but who knows.

With several ST Mini's, they always work for me with zero issues. The only tank I have had such luck with on TC mods.

Hopefully some folks have some ideas to try...I am out of them but REALLY want the Lemo 2 to work in TC mode.
 
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Fir3b1rd

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so am I understanding this? Its working fine in power mode but not tc mode?

the sqr and the kf4 are also known to have issues because of the material between the 510 and the posts.
lamo has a similar situation. With the deck screwing down on the the AFC piece.
can yall both see if that piece that makes contact with the bad is making a good contact? And mane make sure if the pieces are screwed together tightly?

the two things that pop first...wrap the legs around the postholes and make sure the wire is NOT making contact with the chimney
or/and
adjust this screw to make contact with the base
temporary_zpsddb2hpmr.jpg
 
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dam718

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The issue that was causing mine to shoot to the temp limit immediately and start acting crazy was because of hot legs. Something is getting the coil hot enough and raising the resistance up high enough that it's popping off the limiter without making vapor. Some portion of the coil is either not in contact with juice, or you have hot legs.

I didn't know I had hot legs until I removed the chimney from the coil / wick and started feeding water steadily over the wick while firing. Within a few seconds I saw exactly what was going on... Big red leg going to the ground post.

The only thing that fixed it for me was using twisted wire.
 

Mhansel411

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I actually haven't tried to use the Lemo with ka that yet.I'm using the screw head to tighten down not the post hole. I read that's a bit tough when using ni200. I have also unscrewed the AFC from the 510 and toftener down the screw. You guys are saying to wrap the lead all the way around and then trap it under? I will also try the water method listed above to see if a hot leg is the issue. Which is what it's sounding like. Then I'll see about trying twisted wire but I only have 28g.
 

Fir3b1rd

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I actually haven't tried to use the Lemo with ka that yet.I'm using the screw head to tighten down not the post hole. I read that's a bit tough when using ni200. I have also unscrewed the AFC from the 510 and toftener down the screw. You guys are saying to wrap the lead all the way around and then trap it under? I will also try the water method listed above to see if a hot leg is the issue. Which is what it's sounding like. Then I'll see about trying twisted wire but I only have 28g.
yea, wrap the leg around the screw, then Tighten it.
also check and make sure this screw is making a good connection with the AFC base.
temporary_zpsddb2hpmr.jpg
 
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Vlad1

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I actually haven't tried to use the Lemo with ka that yet.I'm using the screw head to tighten down not the post hole. I read that's a bit tough when using ni200. I have also unscrewed the AFC from the 510 and toftener down the screw. You guys are saying to wrap the lead all the way around and then trap it under? I will also try the water method listed above to see if a hot leg is the issue. Which is what it's sounding like. Then I'll see about trying twisted wire but I only have 28g.

Similar to this guys. He's obviously building for a different device so you won't need nearly that may coils but under the screw like he's doing is what I was talking about.

 

a tez

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Here is an email I received from YiHi about their coil recommendations-

Dear Anthony,

the best is that the coil is 3.5mm diameter. Temco Ni200. 0.065ohm

Kind regards!

Cherry

I have been running 28g 3.5mm at .103ohms on my Lemo 2 and it works great. I have some 26g coming in but I find the closer I get to .065ohms (YiHi recommendation) the less I like the vape. Less vapor production and flavor.

Other than that, Lemo 2 has been excellent.
 

jackmormon

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So I have a super bright red hot leg.

Did you have to switch to power mode to see the hot leg? I just tried the water test in Joules mode and didn't see a hot let. Re-wicked and it is working awesome again. Will check again in an hour to see if it lasts. That is my big problem...stability for more than a few minutes.

Also, I push the 510 in as far as it will go and when I screw on the base I can see the 510 being pushed out slightly so I think it is making good contact.
 

nic_fix

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I was more asking about what the differences were. I worded that wrong.
I think that is just because the sx mini did not exist then. then again perhaps that is what the entire problem stems from. hard to imagine though.

I maintain I am getting a outstanding vape at 36j, 520f. if it is fizzle on you just pump it higher. mine has never burned. unless it is unsafe which was never commented on. other than that I see no reason than to do whatever provides the best vape. I suppose ymmv. I just do not see why these settings are a problem. they certainly work.

I am pretty sure vs is made in usa. not that it matters. I think he is more than 3 stores. not to praise him but I take it he is pretty big time. although being a store he can sell whatever he wants. as far as comparisons go there is certainly no reason to compare vs to sx mini. him selling it does not mean what you think. he makes money.
 
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